Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2017 i Harper's Bazaar India

What do London and Tokyo have in common? Quite a bit it turns out. Both cities are celebrated fashion capitals, and are known for preserving their rich heritage. While the English love their delicate rose gardens, the Japanese celebrate cherry-blossom season each year in spring; there is also their mutual love for tea. It’s these parallels between the two cities that inspired French luxury house Longchamp’s Spring Summer ’17 collection. It started with the colour palette—the brand’s iconic Pénélope tote in a bright, Celadon blue, inspired by Japanese pottery. The Pénélope Fantaisie, a bucket bag, features shades inspired by Wedgwood blue porcelain and a deep burnt red that reminded artistic director Sophie Delafontaine of Tokyo in fall. Interestingly, the multi-textured Pénélope Tricolore tote was re-imagined in navy and lacquer red…

TECH SUPPORT For those who like their watches to show more than just time ONE FOR ALL For those who like their timepieces gender neutral BRIGHT SPARKS For those who like playful, fun accessories Fine Form For those who enjoy intricate craftsmanship HIGH FLIERS For the frequent traveller MINIMAL MEASURES For those who like to keep it simple HOT STONES For those who like their watches to sparkle…

HARATHI REDDY REBELLO FOUNDER, WWW.POKERHIGH.COM India’s fastest growing online poker community As a serial entrepreneur who has business hardwired into her DNA, the lessons I’ve learned in this arena can be applied to all areas of my life: That diligence always outweighs talent. I’ve seen brilliant people fizzle out because they don’t apply themselves sufficiently. I work hard when things are going well, but slog even harder during challenging times. ‘Giving up’ is not in my vocabulary. I’ve learned to be confident enough to accept my faults—I don’t have time to cover them up, nor do I waste time berating others for theirs. My goal is to face reality and find alternative solutions. There is nothing sexier than self-acceptance. Most importantly, there’s more to life than financial gain. Making money gives…

IT STARTS WITH A MOMENT: Blackberry picking in the countryside, a walk along the wind-swept shores in north England, the orange-flavoured navette biscuits, typical of the south of France. Capturing its essence, bottling it so you can continue to live that story, is what makes the Jo Malone London fragrances so evocative. They’re about memories. “Fragrances are not intellectual, they come from emotion,” says Celine Roux, the brand’s fragrance director. Having started her career in product development in makeup at Estée Lauder and then Dior, her appointment at Jo Malone, nine years ago, marked her foray into fragrance. Her education before she took the job? Spending her mornings in flower markets, tinkering about with a fragrance kit, blindly smelling ingredients and noting down what they made her feel. It is…

The phrase ‘the personal is political’ was coined in 1969 as part of the feminist movement, putting forward the then radical idea that whether in the home or out in society, women needed to start joining the dots about how power structures were rigged against them, the result of a wholesale systemic oppression. It’s no surprise that the catchy slogan made its way onto that most personal of spaces—the front of the T-shirt. For women to claim their bodies, and fashion, as their own space for personal expression, was a poke in the eye for those wanting to control them. Where women’s voices were blocked elsewhere, fashion offered a space to take control. Fast forward 40 years and we find ourselves with a new kind of revolution, challenging our core…

BOOK Indian-Canadian writer Scaachi Koul is still searching for an Indian mentor in the industry, someone who understands her immigrant experience. But that hasn’t stopped her from offering some counsel of her own. Her debut book, One Day We’ll All Be Dead and None of This Will Matter, a series of personal essays on everything from anxiety and sexism to stereotypes, is geared towards girls like her—daughters of Indian immigrants in an unfamiliar culture. “Wouldn’t be nice if you had a guide for what your life would be like, how your race and gender would affect you. I wanted something that would make me feel a little less lonely, and I wanted to give that to others,” says Koul, 26, who studied journalism at Ryerson University, Toronto, and writes on…

CULTURE YOU WILL REMEMBER GURMEHAR KAUR FROM HER SOCIAL MEDIA VIDEO, in which she held up a placard that said: ‘Pakistan did not kill my dad, war killed him’. Part of a campaign against the right-wing student body Akhil Bharatiya Vidyarthi Parishad, it went viral. And Kaur faced controversy head-on, by being labelled ‘anti-national’ and drawing criticism on Twitter by Virender Sehwag, among others. From that experience, came the Future Talent Society, an organisation she launched to encourage learning and freedom of expression. As well as a debut book, Small Acts of Freedom (Penguin Random House), slated to release early next year. Displaying the maturity of someone far older, but also the exuberant curiosity of her 20 years, the Lady Shri Ram College student, whose father, a soldier, was killed…

The business of being Waris Ahluwalia is intriguing. A multi-hyphenated man on the move, he is an actor, activist, designer, and a muse. In Mumbai for the India Today Conclave, Ahluwalia talks to Bazaar about identity politics, living in a post-truth world of Trump’s America, and how he allows the energy of the universe and the serendipitous hand of fate to guide him. Supriya Dravid: Do you think that the nature of identity is changing in the globalised world? What is identity to you? Waris Ahluwalia: The search for identity is one of the oldest. One of America’s oldest Buddhist teachers, Pema Chodron, says, “We’re part of a dynamic system in which everything and everyone is in flux.” So let’s start small. I always say I was born twice—once in…

HARPER’S BAZAAR HAS ALWAYS CHAMPIONED A SISTERHOOD OF WOMEN, in which we are united in a common search for beauty and strength, celebrating talent, loving the complex, intricate, and beguiling lives we lead. In these aims, Fendi shares much with Bazaar, as well as similarly venerable origins. One of the oldest fashion houses, it was founded in Rome in 1925 by a couple, Adele and Edoardo Fendi, and taken over in 1946 by their five daughters, Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda—a sorority indeed. Each of the women took responsibility for a different side of the business, working together to build up the small, bourgeois, fur and leather shop in Via del Plebiscito, a bustling, chaotic thoroughfare between the Forum and the Trevi Fountain, and turning it into an exciting,…

CELEBRATING its sm year in India, Italian brand Roberto Cavalli launches its Fall Winter'17 Collection at DLF Emporia in the capital. An epitome of Italian craftsmanship, the collection boasts of the exoticism and sensuality of animal patterns, luxurious fabrics intricately worked and opulently embellished, all hallmarks of the Roberto Cavalli design philosophy. The central focus of the collection-the fusion of man and nature-is depicted through big cat prints and elaborately embroidered animal markings, especially tiger and leopard, on leather, snakeskin, tweed, and chiffon. Along with Montgomery coats and tailored jackets, dresses are canvasses for an exploration of fine techniques that is reinterpreted in three different colour palettes-albino hues, twilight colours, and flashes of sulphur yellow-all this worked on a melange of fur, fabric, and fringe. In addition, accessories and jewellery…

THE NAME TO KNOW: FATHERLAND 1 The name behind the brand: Bengaluru-based Ron Dutta was always surrounded by textiles—the women in his family got custom-woven saris from Phulia in West Bengal. When he realised that many of these weaving skills were disappearing, he decided that he would dedicate himself to reviving them. He set up Fatherland in 2014. The woman he designs for: “Every time I design, I have to think of the woman who is wearing my saris. She most likely spends a lot of time in a corporate workspace so she needs a weave that’s a bit simpler, lighter, and more toned down, but she also wants to stay very contemporary.” The aesthetic: Textiles, rather than any surface embellishment, are Dutta’s passion. With each collection, he focuses on…

Nominated lmwvative jewellery of the Year RJA2016 Award Won Platinum Jewellery of the year RJA2016 Nominated Couture Jewellery of the Year RJA2016 PARAMPARA ACHCHAI Kl SINCE 1832 Pioneer jewellers PNG has a rich legacy of fine craftsmanship, quality products and family values that stretches back over 185 years. From humble beginnings as a gold shop in Sangli, the brand has continued to grow and expand, and has now blazed a trail of modern design. The hallmark of this evolution is their sophisticated design style. The Mumbai ring, an unique creation of the PNG Jewellers design team led by Mr. Debashish Mishra, was nominated for the Innovative Jewellery of the Year at Retail Jewellery Awards 2016, is the crown jewel. The "City that never sleeps", Mumbai represents the best of Human…

hard and soft NO 1 Lend an edge to a romantic piece with a studded clutch a classic reinvented NO 2 Rediscover the timeless appeal of broderie anglaise, updated with a defined waist and bold jewellery black and white NO 3 An asymmetric cut and monochrome touches offer a fresh approach to a summer staple crisp and cool NO 4 Introduce white into a working wardrobe with structured separates time to play NO 5 For a simple, sporty feel, layer a loose T-shirt under a fitted sleeveless dress the cover-up NO 6 Our favourite new coat: The white trench…

ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY is one of the rare supermodels whose celebrity status extends far beyond the reach of the fashion industry. The British beauty is a former Victoria’s Secret Angel and has her own range of lingerie and sportswear with Marks & Spencer. Acting roles in Mad Max: Fury Road and the Transformers series have firmly cemented her place in pop culture. Huntington-Whiteley, along with actor Priyanka Chopra, is one of the faces of the global luxury jeweller and haut diamantaire Nirav Modi. She talks to Bazaar about her favourite pieces from the collections, her style secrets, and the joy of working with stalwarts like Patrick Demarchelier. Tell us your first memory of wearing Nirav Modi jewellery. My first memory of wearing a Nirav Modi jewel was for the 2016 campaign…

NAMRATA JOSHIPURA DESIGNER Ananya my love, Beauty emanates from you in more ways than I can count. Each day you surprise me with how you are evolving into the inimitable ‘Ananya’—full of joy, silliness, and empathy. You are spontaneous in the most delightful way, whether it is your unique spin on world events or the games that you invent. I know that you are going to be an exceptional person, and not follow the path well-trodden. You have it in you to do something exceptional in life. You make me laugh with your funny quips and hilarious antics. Nothing is better than getting those tight hugs and kisses from you. At 12, you are still my baby. I love every moment that I get to spend with you, my unique…

The best piece of beauty advice you have received? That beauty really does come from within. And a big smile can make anyone beautiful! Your skincare ritual? I used to be very low-maintenance, but since turning 30 I take it a bit more seriously. At the moment I’m using a La Mer facial cleanser and SkinCeuticals products —I love their cute little apothecary bottles. You have ten minutes to get ready—what are your essentials? A bright M.A.C lipstick (Lady Danger in particular), Chanel mascara for bold Sixties lashes, and a spritz of Jo Malone London’s Basil & Neroli. Your go-to beauty pick-me-up? Jo Malone London’s Vitamin E Body Treatment Scrub. It’s guaranteed to brighten my day! The products you always keep in your handbag? Wherever I go, I’ll be sure…

Let’s get one thing straight: The Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream is not just a cream. It’s nothing short of a magic potion. More balm than cream, it can be used for just about anything—from being an overnight skin-soother to healing sunburns and even nursing bruises back to health, the iconic red and white tube has earned a name for itself as a first-aid fix, but its uses far transcend that of a simple skin salve. Story goes that when Elizabeth Arden (whose name was actually Florence Nightingale Graham) created the cream in the 1930s, it was so effective that she used it to soothe her thoroughbred horses’ bruises. In fact, the Eight Hour Cream owes its name to a customer who claimed that the formula helped heal her son’s…

MY NAME IS HARNAAM KAUR. But from various images of me on the internet, you will be able to identify me as Bearded Lady. There aren’t many women out there who embrace their facial hair, so we Bearded Ladies really are a minority. That just makes us all the more special. Chill, it’s just hair, and there is absolutely nothing horrifying about it. Yes, that’s right, you heard me correctly. We all have hair somewhere or another, so why is it disturbing to keep it on certain parts of our bodies? I mean, god forbid if a woman wears a tank top with visible armpit hair. But shouldn’t we ask ourselves why and how this hairless movement first started? We can take it back to ancient Egypt, or later the…

REFLECTION When I was 12, boys at school nicknamed me “African roach”. For years after, whenever I looked in the mirror, I wished I could take a shower to wash away my colour. My best friend had light skin and curly hair, while I had dark skin with naturally kinky hair. During that time, I could not even enjoy her company without constantly thinking about what I could do to become as beautiful (read: Light) as her. Fast forward to 16-year-old me: I became occupied with decolonising my existence, which included unlearning my sentiments of internalised colourism and anti-blackness. I cut off my chemically straightened hair to wear my Afro textured hair, and stopped comparing myself to my light-skinned friends. But this did not stop me from subconsciously avoiding outdoor…

Maria Qamar knows a thing or two about advice— she’s grown up trying to dodge it from wellmeaning ‘aunties’. The ones who would tell her to marry rich so she didn’t have to do “this art stuff”. After years of trying to please everyone, and taking up a job in advertising, the illustrator from Vancouver finally decided to use art to share her experiences. The result: Roy Lichtenstein-style panels of desi women, inspired by the “endless library of aunties and ladies” from her own life, and the Indian television shows that dominated her home. One features a woman in tears with a comic bubble that says: ‘I burned the rotis’. The images on Instagram (@hatecopy) prompted a following of nearly a hundred thousand, a range of prints and merchandise like…

CULTURE It’s not every day that the path to spiritual enlightenment can awaken one’s gender identity. From being a monk to becoming a transgender dancer and makeup artist, Mariko’s journey is a remarkable one. Born the fifth of six sons into a traditional Tibetan family in Bir, Himachal Pradesh, Mariko whose birth name is Tenzin, was sent to a monastery in Dharamsala at the age of nine. “I was very lonely there so I listened to Beyoncé on my phone and pretended my robes were a gown,” says Mariko with a laugh. But even the music wasn’t enough to ward off the loneliness—she left the monastery when she was 14 and continued life as a monk. She was known as Tashicharbap. Serendipitously, it was Independence Day 2014 that sparked off…

Your summer style staple? I collect kaftans on my travels. I love them in the evenings with flats and statement earrings. I have them from Greece, Morocco, and Ibiza—I’m super excited at the chance to buy some in India! What are you reading these days? An Italian biography of Casanova and Sarah Dunant’s series of historical novels on the Borgias. What makes for a good erotic thriller? Sex and violence, of course. A book you can re-read? The Pursuit of Love by Nancy Mitford. It gets better every time. The best part of having Maestra adapted into a film? And the worst? It takes ages! It’s a very exciting thought, but I can’t really imagine what it will be like. I’ve got my dad a job as an extra as part of the…

Leo JULY 24-AUGUST 23 Aspects of your work or responsibilities are likely to become more complicated than usual. Don’t be afraid to tackle one or two people who seem keen on making your life difficult. Use some dynamism to prove you’re anything but an easy target. Motto of the month Benevolence gets tested by ingratitude. Virgo AUGUST 24-SEPTEMBER 23 Those expecting you to come out fighting when faced with a challenge will see a different side of you. Achieve more by adopting a conciliatory approach with those who seem to enjoy seeing sparks fly. Why not spoil their fun? Motto of the month If you’re making no mistakes, you’re not making anything. Libra SEPTEMBER 24-OCTOBER 23 You are right to resent someone casting doubts over the way you manage your…

A Aanchal Rohra Mumbai (098204 46657) Abraham & Thakore Delhi (098717 74436) Bengaluru (080413 29316) Accessorize Delhi (011 4053 4522) Mumbai (022 2671 7388) ASOS (www.asos.com) A. Lange & Söhne at Johnson Watch Co., Delhi (011 2341 6130) Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Alexander McQueen at net-a-porter.com Alexander Wang (www.alexanderwang.com) Amanda Wakeley (www.amandawakeley.com) Anavila at Ogaan, Delhi (011 4175 7220) Mumbai (099718 94498) Anissa Kermiche (www.anissakermiche.com) Anita Dongre Delhi (011 4103 5862) Mumbai (070456 69647) Anomaly Delhi (011 4905 6967) Anya Hindmarch (www.anyahindmarch.com) Audemars Piguet at Kapoor Watch Co., Delhi (011 4676 7777) Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) B Balenciaga (www.balenciaga.com) Bally Delhi (011 4053 4149) Balmain (www.balmain.com) Baume & Mercier at Ethos Summit, Delhi (011 4058 8700) Mumbai (022 6615 1309) Bblingg (www.shopbblingg.com) BCBGMAXAZRIA Delhi (011 4171…

As Harper’s Bazaar continues to celebrate its 150th anniversary, we look at one of the main reasons the magazine remains an authority in the world of fashion and luxury—its ability to nurture great talent. This January 1915 cover created by Russian-born French artist Erté would mark the beginning of a relationship that would last until 1936. Erté, born Romain de Tirtoff, started his career at a time when fashion illustrations were generally reproductions of pieces already made by couturiers. His drawings, however, were highly dramatic and bold, lavish with furs and jewellery, inspiring designers to create, rather than the other way around. Though constantly wooed by competing magazines, Erté signed a 10-year exclusive contract with Harper’s Bazaar in 1912. This nurturing spirit would develop further with editor Carmel Snow who…

long time ago, I chose to be defined by my work. It is a space where I allow myself to be opinionated, independent, informed, and precise. This professional call gives me the dexterity to translate the same lessons into my personal life. It allows me in equal parts to find myself and lose myself. As women, we span so many worlds yet are never defeated by contradiction. Instead, we thrive on it. In this month’s issue, Bazaar shares the stories of 10 such women who epitomise this plurality. They share their business lessons, but what you really hear is a memorandum of personal commitment, common sense, and perseverance. With huge dollops of entrepreneurship and individuality. What inspired me though was hearing their resolve to give back. Take the example of…

MINIMALISM WITH MAXIMAL IMPACT is perhaps the best way to describe designer Ashish N Soni’s work. Over the course of the past 25 years—he calls the first decade “a long internship”—Soni has crafted a career out of creating a precise range of immaculate menswear. Systematic in his focus, he later turned his attention to capitalise on the growing womenswear market. “The lehengas and the saris were where the money was,” he says, with a laugh. In 2005, Soni was the first Indian designer invited to show his oeuvre at New York Fashion Week. And he hasn’t stopped innovating. Most recently, at Amazon India Fashion Week’s Spring 2017 showcase, he played with interesting shapes that blur the boundaries for men and women. His rendition of ‘puddle pants’ for women was an…

(From left) On Aparna Badlani: Jumpsuit, Nupur Kanoi. Necklace, ₹6,500, BCBGMAXAZRIA. Bracelet, ₹1,500, Minerali. Ring, ₹4,200, Raabta at Minerali. Shoes, ₹7,999, Steve Madden. On Zoa Morani: Jacket and shorts, ₹10,750, Lola by Suman B. Necklace, ₹8,100, Prerto at Minerali. Ring, ₹9,950, Outhouse. Shoes, ₹8,999, Dune. On Rhea Chakraborty: Top, ₹9,000, Aanchal Rohra. Pants, ₹5,250, Creo. Shoes, ₹7,999, Dune. On Nishka Lulla: Dress, ₹16,500, Nishka Lulla. Earrings, ₹3,800, Bblingg at Minerali. Ring, ₹5,250, Outhouse. Shoes, ₹7,999, Dune. All Bags, Furla. Fashion editor: Yukti Sodha. Fashion assistant: Juhi Vyas. Hair: Justine Rae Mellocastro. Makeup: Farzana Barmare and Gayatri D’Souza for Shiseido. Location courtesy: Toast & Tonic, BKC, Mumbai. Under the glistening February sunlight, the pulsating atmosphere inside Palazzo Cusani in Milan came alive with music of (and for all) the ages. Appropriately…

What is the smell of skin against skin? Or that of a field of roses borne on a breeze? For some, these are abstract questions, just ways to indulge the imagination. In perfumery, they have answers. This month, the heavily anticipated Les Parfums Louis Vuitton touches down on home shores and it has not one, but seven perfumes, each one an answer to just such a question or an interpretation of an evocative scent memory. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, who has a track record of best-selling perfumes that most of us have either owned or at least exclaimed over at some point—Issey Miyake L’eau d’Issey, Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y, and Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio among dozens—has relied on both history and innovation for this new collection. And he has taken his…

CULTURE A Canadian, South Asian, and Sikh, Jessie Kaur Lehail is familiar with the struggle to belong. To identify with the labels that define her. Which is why, together with photographer Saji Kaur Sahota, she founded The Kaur Project. An online series of portraits with accompanying text, it gives Sikh women the opportunity to explore how they see themselves. “Usually they have no idea,” says Lehail, who conducts 20-minute telephonic interviews with each person they feature. By the end of it, though, they have their answers. On their website, along with the names and photographs of Sikh women across ages, you’ll see pithy descriptors that highlight their diversity: Poetess, Healer, Purpose Seeker, Challenger, Refugee, Baarwaali, among others. They may all be Kaurs, but they’re certainly not homogenous. “After 9/11, Sikh…

A young, single mother, who crosses the border from Mexico to the US is detained, and her son is placed under the care of a woman unable to have children, in Shanthi Sekaran’s Lucky Boy. Through the stories of five characters, from a domestic cook in Mumbai to an NRI in the States, Neel Mukherjee addresses migration and displacement in A State of Freedom. A fiction debut by poet and social media star Lang Leav, Sad Girls is a coming-of-age novel about love and heartbreak. Author Poorna Bell’s personal journey of life after her husband’s suicide is at the heart of Chase the Rainbow, which aims to shatter the stigma around mental illness. A love story set in Lahore, Faiqa Mansab’s This House of Clay and Water features a lonely…

REFLECTION People ask me if my husband and I are trying. I have been trying as long as I can remember. In middle school, I tried not to look awkward in boot-cut jeans. In high school, I tried not to get a C in calculus. I don’t remember much about math but I know that dividing yourself will cut you into smaller parts. I know that subtraction can turn you into a zero. Some days it is a battle not to feel diminished. I am trying to imagine myself a mother. The idea still seems like a stretch. My recent move from New York to Dubai has left me feeling fluid, unhinged from the familiar, without family and friends. Here, my home is my haven, a place I dress up…

STYLE MIUCCIA PRADA CALLED IT RIGHT WHEN SHE ONCE SAID that, to her, fashion is a language. It transcends verbal barriers quicker than Google Translate, communicating your taste, mood, financial status, politics, and travels with little more than a quick once-over. When it comes to my own sartorial language, I like to think I’m multilingual. Frayed denim and a preference for open-toe slides speak to a childhood lived in Sydney; an abundance of tailored separates and trench coats hints at a few years in London; and in a patois far less pronounced, a few accents, mostly sparkly, speak to my Indian background. I’d be lying if I said my childhood’s annual pilgrimages to Kerala and watching ’60s Bollywood films with my parents had absolutely no influence on my taste. Rainbows…

SHOULD MEGHAN MARKLE EVER FIND HERSELF IN NEED OF A SPECIAL GOWN—something floor-sweeping, exquisitely embellished, and suitable for marrying a real-life prince, say—then she could do no better than turn to Ralph & Russo. Though its atelier is conveniently situated a stone’s throw from her prospective grandmother-in-law’s London residence, there are more compelling reasons as to why this British house should be the choice of our next royal bride. Haute couture is about fantasy: An extraordinary world of hand-stitched dresses, million-dollar jewels, and uninhibited, almost unimaginable luxury. And at the centre of it all, unexpectedly, are Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo, a 30-something Australian couple, partners in both life and love, who started out a decade ago with just a sewing machine and a few hundred pounds but who now…