Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2017 i Harper's Bazaar India

Bikramjit Bose PHOTOGRAPHER A graduate of the Srishti School of Art, Design and Technology, Bengaluru, Delhi-based Bose has been shooting portraits, photo essays, and fashion editorials for magazines since 2008. Known for his work as a portrait photographer with a penchant for black and white imagery, Bose was awarded silver in the PX3 Prix de la Photographie Paris Awards (2011) for his series And They All Sat Down, an ongoing project. For this issue, he captures cover star Lakshmi Menon in ‘Girl Uninterrupted’, pg 124. Where would you most like to live and why? New York. Why? Because it’s New York! Your motto? Don’t take yourself too seriously. Biggest regret? That I was born about 30 years too late. I would have liked to belong to my parents’ generation. Anjali…

For Christian Louboutin, beauty is in the smallest details—the crossing of the ankle, the curve of a bottle of perfume, the turn of a shoulder. And it’s the details that make his designs so distinctive—that unmissable, signature lacquered red sole is just one example. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the creation of his iconic Artemis strap. And to celebrate the occasion, the Paris-native has re-imagined it as the most vital accessory in our wardrobes. We got the maverick designer to talk about what beauty means to him and where femininity and feminism intersect. NONITA KALRA: It’s been 10 years since you first launched the Artemis with the feathered shoulder strap. Tell us about its evolution. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN: When I’m designing a collection, I usually keep in mind that…

c o m p a r e a n d c o n t r a s t NO 1 Balance lines of different widths with simple, crisp tailoring. d i r e c t i o n a l c h i c NO 2 For a witty take on the trend, dare to pair vertical and horizontal prints. b l a c k a n d w h i t e NO 3 Give edge to a soft, pleated shirt by staying strictly monochrome. s t r o n g a n d s h a p e l y NO 4 Exaggerated palazzo pants are a key silhouette for spring; play with proportions by keeping the waist defined. s u m m e r u n i…

THE SECOND SHE ENTERS THE STUDIO, JANE FONDA has everyone’s undivided attention. Without even uttering a word, her presence commands it—not just out of respect for this iconic figure who has mastered every aspect of her career (Oscar-winning actor, best-selling author, fitness guru, inspiring activist) but because at 79, Fonda seems fuelled with enough stamina to engage and impress anyone and everyone around her without effort. “I’m more youthful than I was at 21, I’ll tell you that,” says Fonda. “I’m a quintessential late bloomer! It’s taken me a long time to get to a place where I feel ready for my life. Growing up is a process, at least for me, and I think it’s probably true for most people. It’s a process that you can’t take for granted.…

VINTAGE THERE’S MORE TO MAPS THAN GEOGRAPHY. And a new, first of its kind book showcases just that. Through 61 digitised maps, many of them handmade and handwritten, Maps of Delhi (Niyogi Books) by Pilar Maria Guerrieri illustrates the history of a city, from the beginning of the 19th century to the latest master plan of 2021. They also “explain the most important moments in the development of the city,” says Guerrieri, who teaches history of architecture at GD Goenka University. Turning the pages of the book takes you on a journey of the evolution of Delhi. Find yourself amid the lush gardens of Shahjahanabad in 1850, only to see them demolished by the British after the 1857 revolt in favour of railway lines that would offer easy access to…

BEST-KEPT SECRETS CHAPTER 101 ISN’T SO MUCH A BOOKSTORE AS IT IS A SANCTUARY. A promise that there’s still room for books, from rare collectibles and first editions to lesser-known new volumes you won’t find on bestseller lists. Step inside, help yourself to a cup of coffee ready at a table, listen to mellow jazz, and transport yourself across times and worlds as you browse through the wooden shelves. That you’re in the commercial hub of Gurugram becomes irrelevant. “A labour of love,” is how its founder Raju Singh describes it. Passionate about literature since school, where he discovered The Fountainhead and W Somerset Maugham, he opened Chapter 101 a few months ago. The idea, he says, is to give a home to “some really special books”, almost all of…

AUTOMOBILE Handmade, impeccably detailed, one of a kind, timeless. What’s true for the world of couture equally applies to Rolls-Royce. And it was only a matter of time before the two united. The luxury automobiles behemoth, in its latest model Dawn Inspired by Fashion, takes inspiration from the colours and trends seen on the Spring 2017 runways. And in typical Rolls- Royce fashion, it is customisable for each buyer. The Dawn, a spacious four-seater convertible, gets a high-fashion makeover with this new rendition. Though the seats and exterior of the car is pristine white, it is subtly accented by a choice of three colours—fiery Mugello Red, vivid Cobalto Blue, and playful Mandarin. The vibrant shades contrast the black and white interiors of the car—there’s a bright roof, embroidery, stitching, and…

Now, if you’re blue And you don’t know where to go to Why don’t you go where fashion sits? Puttin’ on the Ritz (Irving Berline) When Karl Lagerfeld staged Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art collection at the Ritz in Paris, it was a long-awaited homecoming. For the Ritz is a key component of the Chanel legend: Just a few steps from Gabrielle Chanel’s first couture salon on Rue Cambon, and the place where she lived from the 1930s onwards, until her death in 1971. “It’s good for us to be here, no?” said Lagerfeld, after the show, gesturing to the gilded salons of this supremely glamorous palace hotel. And indeed, it was a welcome reminder that the City of Light could still sparkle, even in the dark days of an uncertain…

When the acclaimed American illustrator Harry Whitney McVickar created this cover in March 1896 for Harper’s Bazar, it was an indication of a bold, new future. The magazine was creating a special issue dedicated to cycling, and the visual of a woman wearing a practical, and for that time a daringly short, mid-calf skirt and a tailored jacket, on a bicycle was unusual. But it was appropriate for Bazar to make its position clear as a strong advocate of women’s rights. Incidentally, McVickar, at the time, had also authored The Evolution of Woman, a book that chronicled the changing role of women in society. Although women did not win the right to vote until 1920, they were becoming increasingly independent by the late 19th century. Riding a bicycle gave women…

If you are reading this, then you are already a convert. And that fills my heart with joy. As someone who chain reads—it’s my very special skill—putting together an issue that headlines ‘Return To Reading’ is almost an instinctive decision. What gave this project serious momentum was a team that is equally driven by the written word. But we were clear this had to be more than just a comprehensive reading list. We wanted to do it old-school. We wanted to remind you how books made you feel. The emotions they evoked. The memory of a time gone by. The smell of paper. Books are repositories of our emotional quotient. They are our journeys and our journals. Which is why I love the term ‘armchair travel’. Words are my visuals.…

In 2014, ‘normcore’ (noun) was a runner-up in the Oxford English Dictionary’s Word of the Year shortlist. Normcore tied with ‘bae’, while ‘vape’ grabbed the top spot. Coined by trend forecaster group K-Hole, normcore—a portmanteau of the words ‘normal’ and ‘hardcore’—was the most googled fashion phenomenon in 2014 and referred to unisex trend characterised by exhaustingly plain, nondescript, pared-back style. The zeitgeist-defining term was pronounced dead by Google’s first-ever Fashion Trends Report the same year. But did it actually meet its untimely end? Or has it simply transmuted into the very fabric of fashion and social aesthetics since 2014? Just take a closer look at the renegade trend-turned word-turned-movement, which has evolved from being fashion’s mega-meme, and lingers over the language and landscape of not just how we look at…

SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

One of the most sought-after makeup artists in the country, Mickey Contractor is a force to be reckoned with. Instrumental in shaping Bollywood’s idea of makeup as it is today, eschewing over-painted, caked faces and transforming them into naturally luminous looks, Contractor created the iconic smokey eye on Rani Mukherjee in Chalte Chalte, and has developed countless unique looks for the runway, magazine editorials, and Indian brides. The latest feather in his cap comes by way of his second range for M.A.C, which showcases a colour spectrum perfect for the Indian complexion. This new multi-purpose collection, M.A.C Mickey Contractor, is an interesting mix of his old and new favourites. “As I’ve matured, my favourites have changed as well. So this is a reflection of that,” he says. Contractor isn’t a…

OSLO IS A COSMOPOLITAN CITY, a place of elegant restaurants, a renowned theatre, tempting shops, and some of the most delicious coffee you will ever drink. But you don’t have to go far to discover that much of Norway remains a wilderness. A ride to the end of a metro line— No 1, to Frognerseteren—will take you to the forest. These days, in that forest you’ll find the seeds of a library. And not just any library: Future Library, a collection of books by famous authors that won’t be read by anyone for 100 years. This extraordinary project was the brainchild of the Scottish artist Katie Paterson, one of the leading lights of her generation. Three years ago she planted 1,000 trees in the Nordmarka forest just outside Norway’s capital.…

BOOK Amit Chaudhuri’s Friend of My Youth spans about a day and a half in Mumbai, a city in which he grew up, but one where he has no home, and to which he has no ties, no feelings save for ambivalence. Comprising three sections and written in third person, the book looks at his relationship with the city and with a childhood friend, now a drug addict. Here, the author, poet, critic, and professor of contemporary literature at the University of East Anglia, Norwich, UK, tells Bazaar about his goal with the book, his fondest memories of reading, and the legacy he hopes to build. What makes Friend of My Youth a novel, not a memoir? A memoir looks at the unfolding of life, but I’m interested in those…

CANCER JUNE 22-JULY 23 Though there have been many disruptions on the home or family front, you are about to enter a calmer phase. Try to make light of irritating little comments or gestures made by those who simply don’t know any better. Motto of the month Love begins when nothing is expected in return. LEO JULY 24-AUGUST 23 You will make yourself and someone close to you happy by striking a better balance between your social life and your dealings in the wider world. That does not mean you should opt for a quiet life but do step off the treadmill occasionally. Motto of the month Better to conceal one’s knowledge than to reveal one’s ignorance. VIRGO AUGUST 24-SEPTEMBER 23 Respond to people who come with genuine enquiries about…

SAY THE WORD ‘BURBERRY’, AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU? The Queen in her trench coat, on a rainy day in the countryside? Stella Tennant, a longstanding face of the brand, with a Burberry scarf wrapped around her, as the wind whips her hair on a Yorkshire moor? Or do you remember Burberry’s remarkable history as the outfitter to explorers, including Ernest Shackleton, who wore a patented parka and trousers on his expedition to Antarctica; or the unsung soldiers in their gabardine coats, in the trenches of World War I? For Burberry signifies all this, and more, as a quintessentially British brand, established in Basingstoke in 1856 by an enterprising draper’s assistant, the 21-year-old Thomas Burberry. Since then, Burberry has become an institution—like the BBC or Royal Ascot—that seems…

1 THE INTERVIEW: RAGHAVENDRA RATHORE Later this year, the veteran designer opens the doors of his educational institute The Gurukul School of Design (GSD) in Jaipur. What is the USP of GSD? Quality. We want to turn students into visionaries and for that you need exceptional teachers. We’ve gone out of our way to find people from all parts of the world to teach at GSD. Our courses have been custom-designed for India, and students are encouraged to see with their minds and their hearts. It’s about disciplining yourself and creating a better citizen who is also a designer. What are the courses on offer at GSD? Right now we have just one course, BA in Design. Our graduates will be holistic designers before they are fashion designers. They might…

“It began with a mission to make desirable clothes that are effortless but imaginative,” says Jonathan Saunders of his debut presentation for Diane von Fürstenberg. The Scottish designer moved to New York just three months before presenting Spring 2017, yet he has masterfully carried through von Fürstenberg’s signature aesthetic. “Each piece is in keeping with Diane’s values of how a woman should feel in her clothes,” he says. The moodboard itself conjures a sense of the 1970s, suitably reflecting the decade in which her iconic wrap dress was launched. Images of Charlotte Rampling and Tina Chow, a print by Andy Warhol, and sequinned fabric all convey the Studio 54 era, a feeling that continues into the collection with scarf dresses, reworked kimonos, and statement gold jewellery. The majority of Saunders’s…

RHEAK A POOR FILM PRODUCER AND CO-FOUNDER, RHESON What is your earliest fashion memory? My mother unpacking her collection of old Indian clothes, many of which had real zari. She would take them apart and make us new outfits. How would you describe your sense of style? Easy, comfortable, urban, and maybe a little more structured. What are your fashion ‘security blankets’? Jeans. Whose fashion closet would you love to raid? Dita Von Teese, because I’m sure she has some amazing vintage and I love treasure hunting. Tell us about the shift from styling to designing. Designing has changed the way I think about clothes and fashion. The value system is the same but now when I approach a garment I keep in mind the process of making the clothes.…

WH AT D O A S K E L E TON, MOTORCYCLES, apothecary bottles, and an expedition to the Everest have in common? Seemingly disparate, these things in fact make up the identity of one of the world’s oldest and most beloved skincare brands: Kiehl’s. One of the few ‘Made in America’ cosmetics labels, the company has, since 1851, specialised in bespoke formulas that address skincare needs. At a time when customisation was far from being in the beauty vocabulary, Kiehl’s broke ground by using natural ingredients to create powerful, effective products. Their skin, body, and hair care products, for both men and women, have since gone on to earn the brand a cult following. Founded by pharmacist John Kiehl in New York City, Kiehl’s continues to operate from its…

BOOKS WE LOVE…

NOSTALGIA “When I was home, manuscripts surrounded me. My friends told me, ‘you have gone crazy. You can’t talk about anything else.’ I said, ‘leave me alone.’ The manuscripts had a certain smell, and they said ‘you are smelling of manuscripts, Abdel Kadir.’” —The Bad-Ass Librarians of Timbuktu: And Their Race to Save the World’s Most Precious Manuscripts by Joshua Hammer (Simon & Schuster, 2016) Every so often, some young person discovers that the attar-makers of X place in India—sometimes Jaipur, sometimes Mumbai, sometimes Falaananagar—have invented a perfume that smells like petrichor, the earth after rain. I wonder why no one has ever thought to make an attar that smells of old books. Could it be because they are generally ahl-e kitaab, people of the book? And the beautiful smell…

TRIBUTE A few days ago, I was in a coffee shop in Malvern, a very pretty English town. It has a small but well-known boarding school, and an old monastery, now a church; it nestles amid forested green hills. A friend and I were talking about Jane Austen, and her enduring appeal, especially for a legion of erudite fans or ‘Janeites’, many of whom seem to feel, he said, that they know Ms Austen personally. I’m not a Janeite. I have, though, read all of Ms Austen’s published work—the novels Northanger Abbey, Pride and Prejudice, Sense and Sensibility, Emma, Persuasion, Mansfield Park, and even some of the novels she wrote for fun as a child (which are quite fun). Like most other affluent middle-class Anglophone sentient beings, I’ve seen a…

CONVERSATION “It took me by surprise,” is how Graham Swift describes much of his work, whether it’s his foray into novels from short stories, or his most recent fiction called Mothering Sunday (Simon & Schuster)—the story of a love affair between an English maid and an heir, engaged to another, it is set in one day in 1924. But, here’s the thing: When you’ve won a Man Booker Prize (Last Orders, 1996), inspired film adaptations (Last Orders, Waterland, Shuttlecock), and written prose so unflinching, so intimate, it’s hard to believe things just happen to you. You make them happen. Another thing about Swift, though, is that he’s humble. Over the phone from London, in a voice that’s quiet and considered, he opens up about his writing process, the significance of…

You’re strong, articulate, opinionated, a trained singer, an excellent cook, and a great friend. I’ve always enjoyed the manner in which you conduct yourself. There’s something attractive about that, and I don’t mean just physical beauty... I like the idea of having a multi-dimensional life. I don’t find it beneficial to isolate oneself into doing just one thing. If you put your mind and heart into it, whether it’s cooking or gardening, it can all be a joy. The whole point of me having my home in Goa is so that I can do all of these things. I continue to work as a fashion model. I’ve been doing it for 15 years and all my clients have been very supportive. I have my 12 dogs here, and a property…

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