Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2017 i Harper's Bazaar India

IT’S AN UNUSUALLY BRAVE PAIRING—COACH’S CREATIVE DIRECTOR STUART VEVERS AND Rodarte’s founder-designer sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Together the trio channelled their distinct creative energies towards an exquisite capsule collection that is all about utility but with a touch of whimsy. By referencing the classic East- Coast preppy vibe of the behemoth heritage brand Coach and the subliminal runaway romanticism that wafts through Rodarte’s aesthetic, the apparel and accessory collection exudes authentic Americana but with a whiff of surreal magic. Bazaar gets an exclusive insight into what led to this partnership. What inspired you to collaborate with each other? Vevers: I’ve long been a admirer of Kate and Laura’s work. As someone who is still relatively new to the world of American fashion, I wanted to collaborate with an American…

ONE-STOP JEWELLERY SHOP Featuring a range of affordable rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings, alongside accessories like scarves, bags, and watches, the recently launched online brand Shazé is a one-stop shop for all your jewellery and accessories needs. The Go Bold collection—made with ceramic beads, shells, and semi-precious stones—consists of statement neckpieces, while the Chicalicious collection comprises animalthemed pendants, rings, and bracelets for those looking for something more quirky. However, it is the silk woven scarves that are the most versatile. Knot one around your neck French style or just pair it with vibrant Shazé sunglasses to channel Audrey Hepburn. TIMELESS BIJOUX Assouline’s new collector’s book, The Impossible Collection of Jewelry, brings together the most remarkable pieces of the 20th century. Written by fine jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, the tome features…

A FEAST OF LOVE AVNI DOSHI ON HER FAMILY'S INTERTWINING LEGACY OF FOOD AND LOVE The shutter speed is on automatic but I control the aperture. I focus on a steel thali filled with little mountains of food, a topography of tender greens, oily and dotted with jeera, and eggplant, fried, tempered, yellowed with turmeric. The pillowy rotis are starting to deflate. I work quickly, trying shots from different angles, considering the light in my grandmother’s flat, the grey, wooden floor that forms the background, and the reflections of faces in the metal plate. Mum speaks to Nani in Gujarati behind me, “It will be cold by the time she actually eats it.” Nani laughs and replies, “Why is she taking so many pictures?” I look at my mother and…

THE SCENT OF A WOMAN With over 200 years of experience in creating fragrances, the House of Guerlain needs no introduction. Thiery Wasser, a fifth generation Guerlain perfumer, pays tribute to the brand’s history with their new scent, Mon Guerlain—rich with notes of musky Tahitian vanilla (a signature of its iconic Shalimar perfume), soothing Provençal lavender, spicy sandalwood, and the freshness of south Indian sambac jasmine. The bottle, designed by crystal manufacturers Baccarat in 1908 and used previously for other Guerlain perfumes, most notably Jicky, features a ‘quadrilobe’ stopper, created from a single piece of glass to obtain a shape resembling four lobes. A century later, embellished with gold, it celebrates the feminine silhouette with sharp lines and sensual, rounded edges. COLOUR ME HAPPY Clinique has teamed up with fellow…

BEVERAGES MAVERICK Masque, Mumbai Judged runner-up at the Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition in Mumbai this February, the Maverick is made with Bacardi Gold, lime juice, grapefruit juice, honey syrup, and egg white foam. At first sip, you’d expect the alcohol to be masked by the other flavours, but it shines through with a kick that will surprise you. GREEN FIELDS Bombay Canteen, Mumbai Bombay Canteen now pays tribute to Mumbai’s architecture with its new cocktail menu. On a hot Mumbai afternoon, try this gin-based drink, named after a historic art deco building in the Oval Maidan neighbourhood. It is made of green tea syrup, lime juice, egg white foam, jasmine, and starfruit juice, which gives it its unique flavour. The fact that it looks just as pretty—a slice of starfruit…

CULTURE I REMEMBER LITTLE OF WHAT I STUDIED IN COLLEGE, BUT ONE DETAIL STICKS OUT: The Society for Cutting Up Men. The manifesto, written in 1967 by radical feminist Valerie Solanas, posits that, basically, men are evil, no good, irrelevant. The writing gained traction the following year when she shot Andy Warhol at his Manhattan studio. It came up almost as a footnote in a class on gender, but I find myself thinking about it every time someone mentions feminism. Because the misguided idea that feminism equals male-bashing continues to prevail, even if everything the movement stands for proves otherwise. New Delhi-based illustrator Pia Alize Hazarika, who was called a “bad feminist” for siding with a male friend, knows this all too well. Which is why she recently launched a…

BOOK Pakistani comedian and writer Sami Shah, based in Melbourne, puts his acerbic wit to paper in his upcoming novel, Boy of Fire and Earth. A story of love and power, inhabited by djinns, deathly creatures, and the devil, it’s what author and critic Kamila Shamsie has called “a place of wonder and terror”. Here, Shah, whose autobiography I, Migrant was nominated for literary awards like the Russell Prize for Humour Writing, talks books, hidden talents, and the one person who makes him laugh. What’s on your bedside table? Central Station by Lavie Tidhar. One of the best fiction writers in the world today, Lavie’s collection of loosely connected short stories about a space port in Jerusalem is breathtakingly beautiful. Who makes you laugh? My eight-year-old daughter. She’s really bloody…

GEMINI MAY 22-JUNE 21 Talk of a deal that has the potential to make money will intrigue you. Do not ignore your sixth sense warning you of possible pitfalls. Clarify the details before committing. In the meantime, remain completely open-minded. Motto of the month You have only one chance to make a first impression. CANCER JUNE 22-JULY 23 Having been frustrated at the lack of response to your ideas, you will slowly receive feedback from people you respect. Consider all the opinions on offer so that you will be better informed. Even if it becomes a lengthy process, it will be well worth the investment. Motto of the month Trust but verify. LEO JULY 24-AUGUST 23 Valuable information that has been withheld will be revealed. Unless you have been sworn…

THE CITY was a painting in oils the day I visited Nicolas Ghesquière. It was cold outside, but the blue sky was made for Paris, the perfect ground for those iconic buildings, all that history and all that romance. Paris is the sublime essence of a dream we want to believe in, that living is a beautiful art, and all the way to the horizon the rooftops and spires convey a hunger for something wonderful. On the right bank, steps from the Pont Neuf, on the second floor of a grand building by Rue de Rivoli, scented candles were burning in the many-roomed ateliers of Louis Vuitton. When I arrived people were hard at work on a dress Michelle Williams might be wearing to the Oscars. Set on a mannequin,…

PICTURE PERFECT Want some inspiration to capture beautiful holiday shots? Just look to Perfect Picture: Get The Most Out Of Your Camera (Bloomsbury) by Alok Sardana. The book covers basics like exposure techniques, light manipulation, and picture composition, and also elaborates upon technical aspects like how to control shutter speed, freeze fast-moving subjects mid-tracks, or create a blur to accentuate motion. An alumnus of the National Defense Academy and IIM Bengaluru, Sardana writes in easy-tounderstand language that is light on jargon. LUXE LUGGAGE The rose gold trend finds its way from jewellery into the luggage space with Tumi’s limited-edition 19 Degree line of suitcases. Available in both check-in and carry-on options, the pieces come with a reinforced framecase design and metal die cast corner caps that can withstand heavy force;…

# 3.1 Philip Lim (www.31philiplim.com) A Abraham & Thakore Delhi (098717 74436) Bengaluru (080 4132 9316) Accessorize Delhi (011 4053 4522) Mumbai (022 2671 7388) Aldo Delhi (011 4265 8363) Mumbai (022 2889 0084) Alexander McQueen at net-a-porter.com Ankita at perniaspopupshop.com ASOS (www.asos.com) B Balenciaga (www.balenciaga.com) Bally (www.bally.com) Balmain (www.balmain.com) BCBG Delhi (011 4171 3187) Mumbai (022 4347 6111) Bodice by Ruchika Sachdeva Delhi (096500 71122) Bottega Veneta Delhi (011 4609 8272) Mumbai (022 6615 2291) Boucheron (www.boucheron.com) Bulgari watches Delhi (011 4053 8623) at Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Bulgari jewellery (www.bulgari.com) Burberry Delhi (011 4652 9850) Mumbai (022 4080 1994) C Calvin Klein (www.calvinklein.us) Carolina Herrera (www.carolinaherrera.com) Cartier Delhi (011 4678 8888) Mumbai (022 2269 2169) Cassandra Goad (www.cassandragoad.com) Céline (www.celine.com) Chanel Delhi (011 4111 6840) Mumbai (022 4004…

WHEN THE ONLY ABSOLUTE IS CHANGE, THEN WHERE DO YOU BEGIN to define the parameters of creativity? Of thought? Or conversation? What defines this movement that we term ‘India Modern’. Simply put, the answer has no answer. The new rules that we herald on the cover are a little bit misleading. Specially since the only way to get there is not have any rules. In order to be the change you have to first create an original vocabulary. One that omits the negative. As well as the tried and tested. And the safe. In the May 2017 issue we bring together a sub sect of subversives who have been writing their version of the novel. Take a look at Shanay Jhaveri. The first Indian curator for modern and contemporary South…

NO 1 greatest hits Off-the-shoulder, stripes, and bell sleeves come together in perfect harmony NO 2 the minimal effect Structured and swaying—contrast silhouettes while keeping the colours subtle NO 3 big & bold Create drama by pairing exaggerated sleeves with graphic prints NO 4 jean pool Give Victorian fashion a modern update by wearing it with denim NO 5 layer wise Carry forward this winter staple with light, flowing fabrics and ruffle details NO 6 blank check Keep your accessories simple and let your all-white outfit do all the talking…

In India, a country with several extraordinary cultural moments, how does one preserve the past? And, more importantly, how does one translate our colourful legacy into an exceptional future? Bazaar throws the spotlight on luminaries and visionaries—across various mediums and movements —who are expanding and challenging the idea of beauty with their imagination. Take, for instance, Jiten Thukral and Sumir Tagra, two artistic collaborators, who have successfully interpreted colloquialism with their punk modern sensibility. Or the gallerists Sree Goswami and Roshini Vadehra Kapoor, who have championed known and unknown artists, and have bravely showcased their palette across the globe. Just as Vikram Goyal’s love for opulent Indian artistry is reflected in his architectural vision, Simran Lal and Raul Rai of Nicobar have globalised the Indian aesthetic with refreshing minimalism. Tarang…

THE IMPORTANCE OF DRINKING EIGHT GLASSES OF WATER A DAY IN EXCHANGE FOR RADIANT, glowing skin is all too familiar. So it’s only natural to assume that what’s good for you on the inside must be good for you on the outside. That is, until we heard of Korea’s obsession with the waterless skincare regimen— essentially, refraining from applying products on the face that contain water. Apparently, when applied topically, water does not equal hydration. Chances are, the creams and moisturisers sitting on your dresser contain about 70 percent water, leaving little room for key players like antioxidants and vitamins that treat and nourish skin. Take a look at the list of ingredients in your moisturiser and, more often than not, water or ‘aqua’ will be listed as the first…

JUST AS WE MAKE A CONSCIOUS EFFORT TO OPT FOR healthier choices when it comes to food, what we put onto our bodies requires the same amount of deliberation. It was with this thought that 50-year-old Swedish cosmetics giant Oriflame launched their award-winning Ecobeauty range last year. The world’s first global cosmetics line made with more than 95 percent natural ingredients, it is also devoid of parabens, silicones, mineral oils, or synthetic fragrances. The brand went a step further to ensure that the idea of sustainability extended to all aspects of the range—not only are all packaging components of Ecobeauty recyclable, but even the tubes of eye creams are made from postconsumer recycled (PCR) plastic, and the board used in the cartons has been certified by the Forest Stewardship Council…

FILM The difficulty of finding a subject who had been trafficked, was willing to speak out with the support of her family, and was comfortable in spite of social stigmas is testament to the anomaly that is Ramadevi. But her story, the one told in Notes to My Father, tragically, is not rare. The My Choices Foundation, in tandem with the Oculus VR for Good programme, set out on a journey a year ago to make the documentary using virtual reality. Having premiered at South by Southwest in Texas in March, it opens in cinemas here this month. The power of virtual reality lies in its visceral capabilities: A wider field of view and motion sensor headsets offer an immersive experience. By creating an illusion of physical presence, it effectively…

Delhibased singer and songwriter Tanya Nambiar, former vocalist of the band Gravy Train, has branched out. Having recently released a jazz/blues single called Good Old Days, she’s now working on an EP, Good Girls Gone, set to come out this month. Comprising three easy-listening songs, and a mix of rock ’n’ roll, blues, and pop, it pays homage to her various influences. And the name? “Because us women are just badass. The women today are strong-headed, know what they want, and don’t give a damn about what people say.” Here, the 29-year-old star of the country’s indie music scene, shares the songs she’ll be listening to all summer long. Shape of You, ED SHEERAN I mean come on, how can one not love this song. It definitely gets me grooving. Animals, NABIHA…

“That sounds really bad,” says Kajol, settling into a chair while holding a steaming cup of black coffee. She follows this up by breaking into loud, infectious laughter, which, I learn over the course of our conversation, systematically punctuates her responses. “Twenty-five years is, like, a quarter of a century!” she says. I have just asked Kajol if it actually feels like it’s been 25 years since she debuted in Bollywood. She has undoubtedly reached a milestone, but this realisation dawns on her only when I make the observation. Sitting in the living room of her home in Juhu, on a street lined with stars’ bungalows, she turns introspective. “When I think about my children, my marriage, and how I have worked, suddenly it all adds up. And I think…

Experience the City of Joy the way Rudyard Kipling, Mahatma Gandhi, and Queen Elizabeth II did—by staying at The Lalit Great Eastern in Kolkata. A bona fide heritage property, it was set up in 1840 as Auckland Hotel, but its origins even precede that. Its legacy began as a bakery, opened to serve homesick colonial officers an authentic English breakfast. Today, despite modern additions like air charters, a 13,000 sq ft spa, and a 24-hour concierge, vestiges of its illustrious past continue to shine. Take, for instance, a wall from the original bakery and a century-old oven, or the stunning grand piano in the lobby, still in playing condition and once housed in the hotel’s legendary erstwhile bar Maxim. It’s no wonder, then, that Mark Twain labelled this hotel the…

As we continue Bazaar’s 150th anniversary celebrations, this month we look back on the magazine’s first-ever cover. “A repository of fashion, pleasure, and instruction,” is how Harper’s Bazaar described itself on its first issue in 1867. Founded by New York-based publishing firm, Harper & Brothers, Bazar, as it was then spelled, started out as a weekly illustrated journal, more similar in format to a newspaper than a magazine. It was the youngest of the four Harper siblings, Fletcher, who in the mid-1860s came up with the idea of starting a publication for affluent, educated women where alongside instructions on how to tie a bun or updates on the latest diets, there would be the best new literature and well-written commentary on larger societal mores. Fletcher’s first task was to appoint…

IN 1996, PINKI GOSAL WAS WORKING AS AN ASSISTANT at a beauty studio by Marilyn Miglin in Chicago. Miglin walked in, took one look at Pinki’s eyes, said, “Get some concealer on her” to the rest of her staff, and kept walking. It was like a scene out of The Devil Wears Prada. The staff rushed to cover up her darks circles but every shade they tried looked too white and ashy. Upon her return home to Canada, “this sparked off a conversation between me and my childhood best friend, Monal [Patel],” says Pinki, who heads product development at Vasanti. This was nearly 20 years ago. What started off as a chat about the woes of makeup between two friends led to the launch of Vasanti (meaning ‘of spring’ in…

PHOTOGRAPHY A YOUNG BOY LOOKS AT THE LENS, casually holding a smoke between his thumb and forefinger. A woman gracefully walks between boulders, seemingly unaware of the load she’s carrying on her head with one hand. A waiter peers inside a room at the Royal Opera House, teeming with the cultural elite, separated from them by more than just a half-open door. These black and white images by photographer, screenwriter, and filmmaker Sooni Taraporevala, captured in Bombay/Mumbai from 1976 to present day, explore the city and its changing social landscape. On display at the Whitworth Art Gallery in Manchester, Home in the City, Bombay 1976-Mumbai 2016 is her first solo exhibition in the UK. Curated by Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi, and launched in partnership with Sunaparanta, Goa Centre for the Arts,…

BEVERAGE If you are someone who sips copious amounts of green tea and skips aerated drinks in favour of healthier options, you can now up the ante with kombucha. A fermented, sweetened, fizzy beverage made of green or black tea, it’s touted to have myriad health benefits, from improved digestion to cleansing and detoxification. Having originated in the Far East about 2,000 years ago, it’s now available in Mumbai—Bucha Bar delivers it fresh to your home. The founder Harsh Negandhi loved the taste when he first tried it, and set out to make his own. He learned how to prepare tea from his mother, found SCOBY (‘symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast’ used to ferment the drink) at a shack in Vagator, Goa, and now supplies 250 ml bottles to…

BOOK DAVID BAILEY DOESN’T INDULGE QUESTIONS ABOUT HIS PHOTOGRAPHY PROCESS OR TECHNIQUE. The camera, he says, is just an instrument—it’s what you do with it that counts. And at 79, he’s done a fair amount. His portraits of everyone from Salvador Dalí and Andy Warhol to Twiggy and the Queen, his fashion campaigns for labels like Balenciaga, his famous exes, Jean Shrimpton and Catherine Deneauve, whom he married and later divorced, all put him in the same spotlight he shines on his subjects. But there’s another side to Bailey’s work, one that took him to photograph Mother Teresa’s home for the dying in Calcutta in the 1970s and recently to the remote parts of Nagaland. “I’m a bit too ambitious for my age,” he says, over the phone from his…

STATIONERY A WOODY SANDALWOOD SCENT, A WHIFF OF A BOUQUET OF ROSES, a citrusy grapefruit that reminds you of cocktails by the pool, a fragrant germanium reminiscent of an exotic botanical garden. These are the notes you’ll find in a range of greeting cards by the US-based brand Clap Clap, each of them containing a fragrance chip dipped in essential oils. And they’re now available in India, with the recent launch of The Paper Company, an online boutique for stationery sourced from international labels. It has everything from thank you notes and to-do lists to slogan notebooks (I Am Very Busy, says one) and sets of sticky notes. Who knows, it may even make you look forward to your chores. www.thepaperco.in…

THE YOUNG DIANA THE FRIEND THE MOTHER I never knew Diana, but like millions of others who lived through her era, I saw the arc of her rise to fame, and witnessed the wild convulsion of grief that gripped the nation after her sudden death two decades ago. She and I were the same age, born within days of each other, and though our paths never crossed, I do know a few of those who were close to her; yet to me, she remains an elusive and enigmatic spirit. What is clear, however, as is evident in Patrick Demarchelier’s portraits of Diana that were published in Harper’s Bazaar both before and after her death, is that she was a great beauty. And she was also a beloved friend of the…

Creative Direction: KEVIN TEKINEL at GB65 MAKEUP BY KABUKI…

SCULPTED BY SHADOWY MOUNTAINS, NATIVE FORESTS, and turquoise lagoons, it is easy to be floored by the jaw-dropping, natural beauty of New Zealand. But the country is also ripe with all kinds of spectacular experiences. Here’s what you shouldn’t miss. SEE WETA WORKSHOP Wellington With two Academy Awards under its belt, the Weta Workshop has spent over 25 years bringing alive stories such as The Lord of the Rings, Avatar, and Mad Max: Fury Road. It’s in this nondescript shed in the heart of the suburb of Miramar that many of Hollywood’s iconic landscapes, characters, and special effects have been conceptualised. During the 45-minute tour, a Weta technician reveals insider secrets like the making of props and miniatures. A visit here is your chance to slip on prosthetics from The…