Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2016 i Harper's Bazaar India

THE FENDI FAMILY The Fendi story beganin 1925 onVia del Plebiscito, a busy street in the heart of Rome and a main thoroughfare for the nobility, where Adele and Edoardo Fendi opened a leather and fur boutique with an in-house workshop. They soon earned a reputation for creating some of the finest products in the city, like parchment leather luggage, bags, and fur coats. In 1932, with their second fur atelier on Via Pave, they unveiled a full collection of the Selleria bags. As their business grew, so did their family. In 1931, Paola, the oldest of their five daughters, was born, and Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda followed. Growing up surrounded by leather and fur, by the time they were teenagers, the sisters were working in the family business.…

NO 1 the collar detail Ruffles for the minimalist: A single playful detail updates the ensemble NO 2 Princess Diana style The rigour of a Victorian blouse, modernised by high-waist trousers and sculptural accessories NO 3 long and loose SS 16’s subtle shift in volume means wearing a longer shirt defiantly untucked No 4 the sleeve detail An extended and unbuttoned cuff adds drama to a simple silhouette NO 5 the pussy bow Forget the pencil skirt: This byword for ‘lady-like’ now needs wide-legged sailor pants or stiff dark denim NO 6 white on white Think Bianca Jagger: A touch of cool masculinity makes this staple anything but basic NO 7 layered undernealh A boyish button-down shirt instantly updates the dress…

Art behemoth Gagosian opens its new San Francisco location with Plane.Site, an exhibition that looks at the relationship between drawing and sculpture. And so the work of each participating artist is represented in both 2-D and 3-D at the 4,500 sq ft gallery, which is located in the historic Crown Point Press Building. Pop artist Roy Lichtenstein’s Mobile III sculpture is showcased near a colour pencil sketch of the same piece. Also on display is the work of Rachel Whiteread, the first woman to win the Turner Prize in 1993, which includes a colourful drawing on graph paper and a corresponding yellow pigment, plastic, and resin sculpture. The exhibition also features works by Andy Warhol and Pablo Picasso, but one of its biggest highlights is Cy Twombly’s Untitled, (Lexington), 2009,…

No, The Vegetarian isn’t about kale salads and soy burgers. This year’s Man Booker International Prize winner by South Korean writer Han King is a far more complex, confounding story of Yeong-hye, who renounces meat after a series of torturous nightmares. It doesn’t stop there. What follows is a bizarre spiral of events that threaten her marriage and relationships, and ultimately her sanity. Because towards the end, she is convinced that she is becoming a tree. The central theme is of abstinence: From innocuously giving up meat to rejecting humanity altogether. First published as three novellas in 2007, the new English translation is divided into three sections narrated by Yeonh-hye’s husband, brother-in-law, and older sister.…

When chef Suvir Saran announced his new restaurant, Tapestry, in New York City, it promptly became one of the most anticipated in the city. Since it opened in May, it has lived up to the hype. That is not surprising—the last restaurant Saran helmed, Devi, became the first Indian one to receive a Michelin star. At Tapestry, he takes the menu beyond India to include world cuisine, from Mexico to Morocco. Think sea bass ceviche, masala fried chicken, and a rabbit terrine that celebrated critic Gael Greene has deemed “excellent”. Here, the chef who likens fried calamari to bhajiya pakora, talks to Bazaar about his international menu, fusion food, and the farm-to-table myth. How do you integrate India into other cuisines? As an Indian, my palette doesn’t need fat for…

IT’S NOT OFTEN YOU CAN SAY that you had your film debut the same time as the cover girl. But in this case, I have to confess that I had my Bollywood moment with Shraddha Kapoor. We first met on the sets of Teen Patti, where I was absolutely impressed by the seriousness of this lovely star. She looked—and still looks—terribly young, but she had the comportment of one much older. You could see even then that her work meant everything to her. And this month, when India Today Group’s editor-at-large Kaveree Bamzai interviewed her for Harper’s Bazaar, she had the same intensity. Even fashion means business this month with its new style code that is a determined return to the classics. The white shirt. The trophy skirt. Sandals. They…

Yves Saint Laurent once said, “I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, and simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes.” But for one of the world’s most worn pieces, the blue jeans had very humble beginnings as ordinary pants and dungarees worn by miners and workers in the mid 1800s. They were durable, but still prone to ripping at the seams. And so, in 1873, the first blue jeans—the XX—were born, when Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis obtained a patent to rivet tacks into men’s work pants. Once done, they claimed the denims couldn’t be ripped. They even put it on the Levi’s logo—two horses pulling at a pair of jeans—which read, “It’s no use they can’t be ripped.” The Levi’s patent expired in…

SHOW TUNES Alexander Wang loves music. The front rows at his shows usually host the likes of Mary J Blige and Lady Gaga, and Ludacris and Courtney Love have both played at his after parties and runways. So when Apple wanted to launch its first fashion music channel, they turned to Wang to curate it. He has created three playlists—Chill, Hype, and Vibe—which feature R&B, rap, and the dance-floor-ready tracks you’d expect from the fun loving designer. HIGH ENERGY H&M is set to launch its latest high-fashion sportswear collection, For Every Victory, right before the Rio Olympics. Out on July 21, the range includes performance T-shirts, running shorts, leggings, and sports bras in a palette of black, grey, dusty pink, and gold. Celebrating the power of sports and self-belief to…

1 Pleats Please Lovebirds dress, 10,500 (approx). 2 Fanning Out Missoni headband, 10,000 (approx). 3 Fit & Flare munkee.see. munkee.doo top, 7,000 (approx). 4 Nice & Easy Osman dress, price upon request. 5 Bold Folds Tibi sandal, 10,000 (approx). 6 Clean Crease Rahul Mishra dress, price upon request. 7 Tailored Details 3.1 Phillip Lim pants, 46,000 (approx). 8 Strong Hold Tod's bag, price upon request.…

No 1 floor length drama A long, flowing silhouette adds a grown-up elegance to sparkly sequins NO 2 a lady-like update Bold block colours for an instantly fresh new look NO 3 pastel & pleated Pretty without being prim: The fluidity adds a touch of subtle grace NO 4 a little shimmer The secret to mastering contemporary glamour, a metallic midi transforms a fine-knit sweater NO 5 the daring pairing Embrace modernist colours in unexpected combinations NO 6 the perfect match Team a brightly coloured silk skirt and clutch with lace flats and a simple blouse for a summer occasion…

Designer Gabriela Hearst and the Italian luxury label Tod’s have joined forces to create a limited edition pair of slip-on calfskin sneakers with a cut out detail that spells L-O-V-E in Morse code. Twenty percent of the proceeds from sales of the shoes will benefit Save the Children, an organisation whose mission is to improve childrens’ lives around the world—a cause that’s important to Tod’s and close to Hearst’s heart. “This was a project out of desire and love, so it felt only natural to give back,” says Hearst. “It truly is the ‘love’ shoe that keeps on giving.”…

Potent products that are part cosmetic and part pharmaceutical, cosmeceuticals form the backbone of any beauty expert’s vanity case. Formulated by dermatologists, they comprise powerful doses of anti-ageing ingredients such as retinoids, poly-hydroxy acids, peptides, or antioxidants, which makes them more effective than most over-the-counter cosmetics. The term cosmeceutical was coined by Dr Albert M Klinman in 1984—“A topical preparation that is sold as a cosmetic but has performance characteristics that suggest pharmaceutical action,” is how he described this new category. Dr Klinman was also the first to talk about photo-ageing (sun damage), and is known for inventing retin-A, which technically was the first cosmeceutical sold to teenagers for acne, and to adults for wrinkle control. Since then, these products have seen a huge surge in popularity. It’s been proven…

“THEY WERE MORE LIKE STORIES THAN PORTRAITS.” —VALERIE STEELE At first blush, photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe cut an unlikely figure in the fashion world. Bespectacled and chubby-cheeked, she was 40 years old when editor Carmel Snow hired her in 1936 to take pictures for Harper’s Bazaar. Snow, a slender, diminutive Irish immigrant with a fondness for pearls and martini lunches, had blown into the Bazaar offices herself just a few years earlier. She and her eagle-eyed, Russian-born art director, Alexey Brodovitch, were both itching to banish the stodgy black-and-white society portraits that still dominated the burgeoning world of fashion photography. Instead they wanted the images to match their vision for the modern, liberated woman—one who worked, travelled, danced, drank champagne, and lived with such vitality that she’d leap off the page.…

AUTHOR SIMON CHOA-JOHNSTON REMEMBERS asking his mother when he was 12 about his mixed-race family. But she was reticent. The answer would have involved explaining to her son the opium empire her grandfather, Emanuel Belilios, had built, the religious confusion he was bound to feel, and ultimately the question of race—though Johnston was a baptised Christian living in Hong Kong, his great grandfather was a Sephardic Jew from India. Then there was the matter of Belilios’s two wives, one Indian and the other Chinese. So she simply (and sternly) told him not to pursue the subject. Johnston agreed then, but it sowed the seeds of curiosity in him. Today, it has resulted in The House of Wives, inspired by Belilios’s adventurous life. “Through the Internet, I discovered that Emanuel Belilios…

Simryn Gill transforms mundane objects into works of art, on display at a must-see solo exhibition at the prestigious Museum of Fine Arts, Ghent, Belgium. In her 2012 collage Let Go, Lets Go, fragments from 144 books scurry across paper like a swarm of insects, while in Like Leaves (2014), she cuts leaves into squares. Because they are sensitive to light, their colours continue to evolve. The (Hemi)Cyclus of Leaves and Paper is on until September 4.…

Art and design share a deep relationship. In a Bazaar exclusive, four leading designers share sketches of pieces inspired SANCHITA AJJAMPUR “American artist Alfred Jensen’s abstract paintings inspired our SS ’16 catwalk collection. We had one artwork hand-painted, then re-scaled and handwoven into jacquard, which was part of one of the looks.” PAUL ANDREW “A real dream would be to collaborate on a shoe design with my favourite artist, Richard Serra. I’ve long admired his work, especially the Torqued Ellipse series, constructed from two inches thick stainless steel that tower 40 ft into the air. Serra has an incredible ability to take sculptural form to make space distinct; the capacity to set space in motion.” EDDIE BORGO “We chose Tangents (1967) by Brian Rice, as it represents the U-bar shape…

 SECOND GENERATION ACTORS ARE USUALLY remarkably well brought up, painstakingly polite, unfailingly correct, and super concerned about their ‘staff’, a retinue of a spot boy, makeup artist, hairdresser, stylist, and at least one manager. They are also quite insular, untouched by the hard knocks of life outside a bubble of sprawling apartments, birthday parties with children of other stars, and American-style college independence. If Shraddha Kapoor is an exception, she hides it well. Her career graph is dotted with playing moist-eyed beauties almost always smiling in the face of tragedy, except for her second film, Luv Ka The End (2011), in which she was an 18-year-old virgin out for revenge on her rich, sleazy boyfriend. As in all Bollywood versions of ‘youthful’ films, it involved frequent use of the word…

8:00 A.M. Morning Walk Hit the Instagram-worthy Old Town, Gamla Stan, before tourists arrive. Featuring colourful architecture, cobblestone streets, and some of the narrowest alleys in Europe (Mårten Trotzigs gränd is less than three feet wide), it’s a beautiful place for a walk in the crisp Swedish air. Pop into the whimsical café and arty concept store Snickarbacken 7 for an early bite, and sift through their eclectic collection, which includes high heels and harmonicas. 10:00 A.M. Time for Fika Soak up the sun at an open-air café for a Swedish fika, the tradition of sharing coffee and something sweet with friends and family. Our favourite is a cinnamon bun with espresso or white hot chocolate at Chokladkoppen’s al fresco section on Stortorget Square. This café is the…

“You do not walk to visit a friend, you either climb or slide.”—John Steinbeck “Nearly always when you find a place as beautiful as Positano, your impulse is to conceal it,” wrote John Steinbeck in the May 1953 issue of Harper’s Bazaar. At that point, the American author was at the height of his fame—East of Eden had been published the previous year, and The Grapes of Wrath was already part of the literary canon—and so his widely read article in Bazaar drew immediate attention to this small town on the Amalfi Coast. Yet for the reasons that Steinbeck himself identified at the time, Positano has remained as appealing as it was when he first visited, protected by its extraordinary position on the precipitious hillsides above the bay, where there…

MADE TO ORDER Bazaar celebrates a new edition of Couture Cabanas at Asilo, Mumbai The muggy weather didn’t prevent Mumbai’s most stylish from supporting their designer friends at the third edition of Couture Cabanas at Asilo, St Regis, Mumbai. The series, where different designers are invited to decorate cabanas inspired by Grey Goose cocktails, began in 2015, and this time around had Falguni and Shane Peacock, Nitya Arora, Nachiket Barve, and Narendra Kumar participating. Falguni and Shane picked an ivory and crystal theme after the elderflower-and-lime-flavoured Le Fizz, while Narendra Kumar, who was assigned the vermouth and grapefruit mix Velvet Rope, chose a Japanese aesthetic for his cabana. Nachiket Barve’s design used love letters to interpret the orange-flavoured Passionate Affair, and Nitya Arora’s cabana was done up in a retro…

I’m going for 105, then I’ll see if I want to change professions,” says Carmen Dell’Orefice, who, at 84, is not only one of the past century’s most celebrated muses but also the oldest working model. Championed by Bazaar editors DianaVreeland and Carmel Snow, Dell’Orefice struggled with an unstable home life and embraced the fashion world of the ’40s and ’50s as her adoptive family. “I would never have become the person I am without my surrogate fathers, Erwin Blumenfeld, Horst P Horst, Irving Penn, and Cecil Beaton; my surrogate brothers, Gleb Derujinsky, Richard Avedon, Francesco Scavullo, and Victor Skrebneski; and my Dutch uncle, Norman Parkinson.” Of Derujinsky, who shot this cover of her for Bazaar’s May 1959 issue, Dell’Orefice says, “He saw the world in a big way, and…

1 NEO PUNK This penultimate entry from LouisVuitton’s Spring 2016 show summed up creative director Nicolas Ghesquière’s vision for the season: Futuristic, with a hint of art anda healthy doseof conversation-starting intellect. Note the punk references via the moto jacket and leather thongs wrapped around the knuckles (summer gloves, anyone?) The spray-painted effect, paired with spaceship-like motifs, is printed digitally ontoa silk playsuit. The ensemble is a lesson in howto check off all the season’s biggest trends inone fell swoop. To wit: The leather biker, the retro playsuit, the eclectic pairing, and the punk vibe. 2 EYES WIDE OPEN For those wanting to turn heads at a poolside brunch, the newly overdone sunnies are the ideal companions. Brush aside the classic aviators and ditch the futuristic wraparounds. Look to Dolce…

I don’t work only as a designer. I am like the president of the company, so I work in every single field of the business. 1-hour aqua aerobics 40-minute salted water baths 12 dinner guests 7:00 A.M. I wake up around this time; I don’t need an alarm. The first thing I do is open the window to look at the mountain outside. My home is in Sumirago, which is a rural area about 40 minutes north of Milan. I’m on a hill with a view of the Alps, and I can see Lake Varese down the hill. Our house is a modernist one—it was originally built at the end of the ’60s. I found it by a very lucky chance. It’s in the same village where my parents live,…

“I wonder if I have a daughter if I’ll be like, ‘Look at this dress!’ And she’ll be like, ‘No, mum, not interested’. ” “There’s a lot of creativity on both sides. Both [my] parents are amazing, interesting people...” “WHAT IS THIS—Florence Welch exclaims as projector screen that where we are meeting, in the and Albert Museum. The of a contrast to the of spaces filled with decorative items from every the Florence and the the past half hour blissfully time here as a kid,” she says, as if it were one of the “My mum is a professor of trustee, so I’d hear her of gloves—why they were much to Florentines at studies clothes and she’s understand my passion for write about stuff than buy wonder if I…

 JACK MCCOLLOUGH AND LAZARO HERNANDEZ OF PROENZA SCHOULER created a fashion revolution with their Spring 2016 show. One that’s showing no signs of slowing down. When their models walked the ramp in broderie Anglaise shirt dresses with cut-out shoulders, and tops and dresses that spilled off them, it was clear: The bare shoulder had arrived. And Proenza Schouler’s delightful versions were only the beginning. “I feel that a woman’s shoulders are her greatest asset, and fashion can give them a personality of their own. Nothing compares to a woman’s bare shoulders and décolletage. It’s the very essence of grace and strength at the same time.” —Alpana Mittal “I pair mine with white sneakers, chokers, and flash-tattoos. There is something elegant yet sexy about it.” —Masaba Gupta Designers across the world…

CREATIVE DIALS 1. In collaboration with French photographer Dani Olivier, the limited edition Corum Heritage Bubble Dani Olivier reproduces the photographer’s nude portraits on the dial. 2. The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Kaleidoscope’s inner dial starts to spin when its minute repeater is activated. 3. Using the ancient Egyptian art form called glyptic, the Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel features stunning 3-D birds. 4. Inspired by the motion of the sea, Blancpain has used a new gemstone, the Mexican Silver Obsidian, to create a great wave on the dial. 5. Roger Dubuis uses the grand feu enamel technique to design a floral bouquet on its Blossom Velvet Blue. 6. Harry Winston’s Premier Precious Weaving Automatic 36mm features silk thread and wafer-thin slivers of mother-of-pearl woven together. 7. Crafted with mother-of-pearl, ornamental stones,…

1 NEW -GENERATION BLUSH For a subtle and flattering effect, Bazaar loves Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Lip & Cheek Multistick in Alluring Pink, Clinique Quick Blush in Peach-in-a-Pinch, and M. A. C Beauty Powder in Sunny Surprise. 2 THE GENTLE APPROACH Great skin isn’t all about active ingredients and hi-tech treatments. “Paring back to a simple and calming routine, at least for a night or two a week, allows the skin to rebalance,” recommends British facialist Alexandra Soveral. “We should use products that nourish and strengthen our skin so that it can protect itself.” 3 GRO UNDBREAKING SPF Daily sun protection is a prerequisite to keeping our skin healthier for longer. The newest formulas are lighter than ever before, so there’s no excuse to go barefaced. 4 LASER From…

To explore a stronger remedy, studies have indicated that the better quality your skin is in pretreatment, the better and longer-lasting the results will be. THERE ARE MANY THINGSto love about the sun (vitamin D, sunsets). Unfortunately, the star at the centre of our solar system doesn’t have the best relationship with our skin, and this contentiousness makes itself known via sun damage, which involves so much more than just dark spots—there’s rough skin, broken capillaries, and wrinkles too. But here’s the good news: Whether you’ve only just started to notice redness and lines, or have existing damage that you’d like to treat, science—and time—is on your side. An important note: No matter what the state of your skin, make sure you have a thorough consultation with a dermatologist every…

What’s common between lawn fabric, that plain weave textile of Pakistan, and rock’s biggest names from the 1960s and ’70s? Well, for Karachi-based artist Samya Arif, a lot. “The patterns on the fabric, our embroideries and textiles, and album cover art of musicians like Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and Led Zeppelin all feature a fluid, colourful, psychedelic vibe,” says Arif, 29, whose art is informed by these motifs. And it’s an ouevre that has found an audience worldwide: The recent Alchemy Festival at London’s Southbank Centre, a record sleeve for Australian band Tame Impala, and taxi interiors for the Mumbai-based art collective Taxi Fabric, which were later featured in Coldplay’s Hymn for the Weekend video (viewed over 375 million times on YouTube). Arif uses black ink, water colours, acrylic paints,…

Geeta Tandon, 31, has worked in Indian films for eight years, but she remains invisible. One of few stuntwomen in the industry, she has lit herself on fire, jumped from buildings, and done a car chase sequence for Aishwarya Rai Bachchan in the recent Jazbaa. Having survived child marriage and years of domestic abuse, the single mother of two began a series of odd jobs that included folk dancing at weddings and then as part of a troupe in films. Once she learned of stunt work, there was no looking back. Now, a new documentary, Geeta, released on Blush, a digital channel by Culture Machine, brings her to the forefront. When was the last time you were scared at work? I’m still human, and I get scared before every stunt.…

CANCER JUNE 22-JULY 23 A secret dream or ambition might soon become a reality. Don’t feel guilty that you haven’t discussed it in great detail with the person closest to you. And you certainly shouldn’t sacrifice the chance to broaden your horizons simply because you’re afraid of being labelled a deserter. No one has the right to hold you back. MOTTO OF THE MONTH You wouldn’t worry about what people think of you if you knew how rarely they do it. LEO JULY 24-AUGUST 23 Fears concerning work or your well-being mustn’t be allowed to dominate. You’ll realise that your talents and resources sometimes remain unacknowledged. If an exciting challenge crops up, you’ll have access to whatever’s required for you to succeed at it. Motto of the month With one…

8:00 A.M. Alice in Amsterdam Check into the Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht, and marvel at the fantastical world that famous Dutch designer Marcel Wanders has created. Channeling an Alice in Wonderland theme, there are chandeliers suspended from oversized bells, high-backed chairs that resemble tulips, and printed wallpapers where you can read the city’s history in shades of Delft Blue (Dutch pottery). There’s engaging video art in the lobby and corridors, an elaborate constellation of stars and planets below a large skylight, and you will even stumble upon the red-light-district-inspired corridor on your way to the spa. The whimsy extends to the rooms as well, which have elements like hand-painted Villeroy & Boch sinks. 11:00 A.M. Shopping Spree From flower-lined canals and hidden courtyards to boutiques that exemplify Dutch design, Jordaan is…

HOTEL OF THE MONTH Nishka Lulla picks the Vivanta by Taj-Coral Reef, Maldives “The property is absolutely dreamy. We booked a premium water villa, which is spacious and has a deck that offers private access to the sea. We began our day snorkelling in the crystal-clear water that’s filled with vibrant marine life. And if just admiring them isn’t enough, one can also feed sharks and sting rays. More than just beautiful aquatic animals, you can also scuba dive to a ship wreck. It was my birthday, so the staff arranged a romantic dinner with a heart-shaped candle-lit table set up facing the sea. It’s an experience I’ll always cherish. My villa was decorated with balloons, and I was surprised with two cakes and birthday pancakes! The Taj had a…

# 3.1 Phillip Lim (www.31philliplim.com) A Aartivijay Gupta at perniaspopupshop.com Accessorize Delhi (011 4087 0025) Mumbai (022 4333 9994) Acne Studios (www.acnestudios.com) Adidas Delhi (099991 12763) Mumbai (099300 79114) Aerin (www.aerin.com) AG Jeans at The Collective, Delhi (011 4087 8888) Agent Provocateur (www.agentprovocateur.com) A. Lange & Söhne at Johnson Watch Co., Delhi (011 4151 3121) at Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Aish by Nupur Goenka at Neel Sutra, Delhi (0124 428 8910) Alberta Ferretti (www.albertaferretti.com) A.L.C. (www.alcltd.com) Aldo Delhi (011 4265 8363) Mumbai (022 2481 3561) Alice and Olivia (www.aliceandolivia.com) Alexander McQueen at Le Mill, Mumbai (022 2204 1926) Alexander Wang at Le Mill, Mumbai (022 2204 1926) Alexis Bittar (www.alexisbittar.com) Amit Aggarwal at Ensemble, Delhi (011 4604 0745) Mumbai (022 2367 2416) Amrapali Delhi (011 4352 8387) Jaipur…