Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2016 i Harper's Bazaar India

embellishments, sometimes even entirely of chains. His next move came at his first couture show in 2010—the sari gown—and firmly established him in the Indian fashion universe. Equally glamorous, seductive, and convenient, the style soon became the outfit of choice for starlets, brides, and PYTs alike. If the markers of commercial success in India are red carpets and weddings, Gupta had conquered both. At the end of 2014, he flagged off celebrations for his 10-year anniversary with a Mumbai flagship in Kala Ghoda, followed by a fashion-meets-art show at the Delhi Art Gallery next door. Around the same time Gupta was making his debut, Prateek Jain and Gautam Seth launched a boutique lighting label, Klove Studio, in New Delhi. Though they had no formal training in design, their hand-blown glass…

FRESH TAKE “Peachoo fits the Ogaan aesthetic perfectly—high on elegance and wearability,” says Aashti Bhartia, on designer Peachoo Singh’s most recent line for the new Ogaan, where the label has a dedicated space. Singh is a Parisian-Indian designer who debuted in Paris in 2004 and retailed in boutiques internationally till 2014. She returned to India to start her eponymous label in 2015, which today offers traditional Indian designs like saris and kurtas, and dresses and cropped tops in flowy, feminine silhouettes embellished with threadwork. LATEST LAUNCH Having been around for over 25 years, Ogaan is one of the biggest multi-designer boutiques in India and home to the best names in fashion. In May, Ogaan opened its second flagship in Delhi’s Malcha Marg Market. “It will have large rooms dedicated to…

The summer runways celebrated the humble backpack with punchy and graphic prints. Every brand had its own rendition. While Burberry introduced a monogrammed version, Saint Laurent debuted its ‘festival backpack’ with colourful f oral details. “The backpack is forever practical and this season, a most-wanted item, especially the Burberry version, which can be personalised with your initials. Women are buying into it because this season, the style has a bohemian feel to it,” says Eleanor Robinson, head of accessories at Selfridges, London.…

“Wearing sunglasses is the easiest way to feel glamorous!” says Selfridges’s Robinson. While spectacles and shades have always been a creative category, rarely have they been this eclectic. For their spring/summer 2016 show, Dolce & Gabbana went all in with their candy- striped sunglasses, embellished with all kinds of jewels and floral enamels. Acne Studios, on the other hand, presented oversized, futuristic styles in wayfarers. “Sunglasses are crucial. I always invest in a classic pair of Persol’s and also experiment with more fun ‘fashion’ pairs from Prada or Chanel,” says global style icon and founder of Tank magazine, Caroline Issa.…

WHETHER AS MODEL, MUSE, MOTHER, OR FASHION DESIGNER, Inès de la Fressange has always been the epitome of Gallic elegance. The daughter of a French marquis and an Argentinian model, Fressange began modelling in the 1970s, becoming a muse to Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, who told her he could imagine her designing her own fashion line. As always, the designer proved far-sighted. Fast-forward to the present day, and Fressange, now 58, is working on her seventh collaboration with Japanese brand Uniqlo. Naturally, she is also modelling for the campaign. “I only do one or two pictures,” she says, “but sometimes, they’re the clothes we sell the most. I’m surprised by that”. Nobody else is, however, for Fressange’s effortless style is envied and imitated across the world. But that’s not all.…

“I don’t see myself and my team as being service providers who just execute a project and move on,” says Sameep Padora, founding principal, sP+A. “There is a continuity to our work. Each project builds on what has come before, and it speculates about what we will do next.” The offices of his Mumbai-based architecture firm are located in a restored old cottage tucked in a narrow lane in tony Bandra West. These structures, which form gaothans (villages) are now fast disappearing and Padora cherishes the community in the neighbourhood. “Architecture cannot be separate from community and social context,” he says. A thought that is brought to life in Lattice House, a holiday home in Jammu, for which he has won in the Best New Private House category of the…

the essence of rupi kaur is expression the expressing of herself in charcoal in pen and ink in words both uttered or written but never shuttered is her reason to be and the reason she is rupi kaur. a naked honesty that scrapes at your conscience and makes your tummy clench and seeps through cracks in your perfectly wrought defense at the sheer shock that someone voiced these shameful things that were in your head always supposed to go unsaid rupi kaur human. woman. brown but what is her story. immigrant at three the transiting from india to canada punjab to ontario hoshiarpur to brampton punjabi to english warmth and familiarity to what seemed a cold and alien nation is it a memory or something she made up in her…

The tokens are small and unobtrusive: A penny, a button, a tiny wooden heart. Each one is the marker of a life. When mothers left their babies at the Foundling Hospital in London in the 18th century, they were obliged to leave an item; something to identify the child as theirs. To look at, these fragments seem insignificant—youd lose one in your pocket—and yet, each carries within it something enormous and immeasurable: The hope of a mother that one day she might reclaim her child. The artist Cornelia Parker’s new exhibition at the Foundling Museum is a response to this painfully moving collection of miniature objects. After being made the Hogarth Fellow at the museum, she decided to continue a long tradition of artistic collaborations in the building. In the…

From avant-garde fashion to reality television, costume design to cabaret performance, acting to directing—Isaac Mizrahi’s career has been anything but one-dimensional. And Isaac Mizrahi: An Unruly History, the first museum exhibition to focus on the American designer, artist, and entrepreneur, gives an insight into just how multi-faceted he is. This, after all, is a man who, for his runway shows, paired cotton undershirts with floor-length tafetta skirts, and sent models of all ethnicities out on the ramp in sneakers, and handbags worn as hats. The exhibition traces his fashion design from the late-1980s to 2010, and explores the trends in his work by theme—colour and prints, and designs that touch on race, religion, and politics. At its core are pieces from the Isaac Mizrahi New York clothing label, the semi-couture…

GEMINI MAY 22-JUNE 21 It would be unfortunate if formal matters were to impinge on your private affairs. So keep business and pleasure quite separate from one another. And explain to someone close that, right now, you don’t have the time and patience to deal with unnecessary squabbling. Until things settle down, put boundaries in place and stick to them. MOTTO OF THE MONTH You never miss the water until the well has run dry. CANCER JUNE 22-JULY 23 You’ve remained on the sidelines while others have pursued their own ambitions. You’ll want to claim your position within an exciting set-up. But avoid ruffling the feathers of those who can become spiteful if they feel they’ve been outshone. Motto of the month Win gold, and you can wear gold. LEO…

LAURA BROWN: Kendall, tell me about the first time you met Karl. KARL LAGERFELD: I have to leave the room because she has to say something nice. I was so rude to her. KENDALL JENNER: No, you weren’t! Before I met him, well, when you think of Karl Lagerfeld, someone that amazing, you sort of don’t think they actually exist. I met him at my first fitting for Chanel two years ago. I was already nervous because it was my first season, my first Chanel show, and I didn’t really know what I was doing. I’m also pretty shy when I first meet someone. But I got to know Karl when I was shooting with him for the Karl Lagerfeld campaign. I had heard a lot from Cara Delevingne about…

IDEAL TRAVELLING COMPANION “My best friend—she’s like my sister, but while I live in New York,she lives in Milan, so our trips are the only way to spend quality time together.” BEST PLACE TO STAY “If you can, charter a yacht—it’s the only way you can truly discover the wonders and beauty of the different islands.” WHAT’S IN YOUR CARRY-ON?  “My Ray-Ban sunglasses, Beats by Dre headphones, a sketchbook, a J. Crew sweater, Essie nail polish in Rasperry, Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush in In Love, La Roche-Posay face cream, and a Tata Harper lip treatment.” WHAT DO YOU PACK  “A small Chloé shoulder bag, my Faith Connexion leather jacket, Nike sneakers, Buccellati Olympia earrings, and Aquazurra pumps.” . HOLIDAY BEAUTY ESSENTIALS “Chanel Rouge Coco Ultra Hydrating Lip Colour in…

God is in the details. While this famous line is credited to no one, it is most often associated with the German-American architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe—one of the pioneers of modern architecture, along with Le Corbusier and Frank Lloyd Wright. It is almost fitting then that this was my first lesson—my building block, so to speak—in the master class of journalism. As a young trainee, lesson one in copy checking was learning the now lost art of proofreading. I was an apprentice to one of the country’s most meticulous teachers, and for a few months sat in a small, windowless room surrounded by reams of paper, reading the fine print. A tiny font change, an errant apostrophe, even an extra space would get circled by indelible ink. But…

You’ve been in the business for more than 30 years. First as faculty at your alma mater, SNDT, and then as a choreographer, film costumier, and designer… I graduated from SNDT Women’s University in Mumbai in 1984-’85, and then worked as a choreographer with Jeannie Naoroji and Hemant Trivedi for about two years. In ’87, I worked on my firstfilm, Tamacha (1988), while teaching at SNDT, which I did for 18 years. It has been a long journey and I’m happy at how it has turned out. From films and then in fashion, I have built a sort of signature over the years. What’s that signature? I tend to think about a girl who is looking for something to wear to a formal event on a summer evening, or even…

Photographs by JATIN KAMPANI        …

1 Delicate Details Geisha Designs by Paras & Shalini dress, 24,500. 2 Roundabout Charriol choker, 31,000. 3 Cobalt Clusters Rahul Mishra cover-up, price upon request. 4 Embroidered Pants Shriya Som pants at Ensemble, 13,400. 5 Zipped Down Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna top, 21,500. 6 Easy Espadrilles Dior shoe, price upon request. 7 Floral Holds Alexander McQueen bag, price upon request. 8 Sterling Drops Amrapali earring, price upon request.…

1 Beaded Earrings Céline earrings, 37,000. 2 Box Jackets Bina Modi jacket, 26,000 (approx). 3 Heavy Adornments Amrapali necklace, 74,000. 4 Mini Skirts Isabel Marant skirt at matchesfashion.com, 30,000 (approx). 5 Dainty Slingbacks Valentino shoe, 71,000 (approx). 6 Embellished Collars Sanchita top, 10,400. Tasselled   Bags Giorgio Armani bag, price upon request. 8 Plunging Necklines Alice + Olivia dress at net-a-porter.com, 1,18,000 (approx). WHAT’S OUT 1. Mini floral studs. Cropped jackets Delicate jewellery 4. Maxi skirts 5. Classic pumps 6. Chinese collars 7. Wooden clutches 8. Square necks…

In keeping with the current ’90s rage is the choker style necklace. Seen both on and off catwalks in velvet, metal, rhinestone, and leather, designers have takes this season’s versions to the next level. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain presented huge, warrior-style metallic collars, and Christian Dior went for romantic scarves overlaid with metallic letters and numbers for chokers for this season. Closer home, Sasha and Kabia Grewal of Outhouse suggest their own grunge take. “A handbag’s detachable chain strap necklace can make for a great choker. It’s an easy accessory to upscale your ensemble in different styles from day to evening.”…

No longer are scarves only meant to give you warmth and comfort. For Spring 2016, they were all about making a statement. Inspired by an ‘imagined land of love’ as per his show notes, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele presented tender tulle scarves tied into large romantic bows. At Emporio Armani, the focus was on neckerchiefs in fun colours and patterns. “Scarves are great for summer and holidays, and right now, I love wearing scarves as turbans or simply wrapping them around the head,” says designer and milliner Shilpa Chavan.…

Le Pliage, which means ‘folding’ in French, is the Chanel No.5 of the handbag world. Designed in 1993 by Philippe Cassegrain, CEO of Longchamp, it is an iconic carry-all made of nylon canvas with Russia leather handles that’s ubiquitous to the fashion world. Everyone has one (or should). Over its 23-year history, Le Pliage has revolutionised how women around the world shop, go to the beach, or pack for a weekend. Its endless colours, ease, and efficiency, not to mention its long, long life, have made it a favourite of Amy Adams, Alexa Chung, and Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, among many others. Le Pliage has, since 2006, been reinvented by designers Jeremy Scott, Sarah Morris, and Mary Katrantzou, who have all collaborated for various seasons with the French brand.…

FRESH FACED Though couture shows are known for their standout makeup, this season made a mark for its clear lack of colour. Designers opted for a peaches-and-cream complexion in a finish best described as translucent matte. To prep, start with a radiance boosting face mask that you wipe (not wash) off. Apply another layer of moisturiser, and then dab a highlighter on the cheeks and temples. Cover with a thin veil of foundation, and finish off with a blush and tinted balm. SPOTLIGHT ON: DAFNI Blow dryers have a tendency to make women weep—holding a dryer in one hand and a brush in another needs dexterity and forearm strength, which is taxing to say the least. Especially when you’re in the rush to get perfect hair. But there’s reason to…

INDIAN-CANADIAN ARTIST NIMISHA BHANOT REACHED the modern-day pinnacle of popularity in April, when her work went viral. It’s easy to see why. The women her paintings represent are unabashed, unapologetic, and undeniably Indian. And through her series—Badass Indian Pinups, Badass Brides, and Badass Bahus—they break every custom set by society and patriarchy. A tattooed bride in a red lehenga smokes a cigarette, one woman wears a backless bodysuit emblazoned with the flag of India, and a housewife drinks wine as she plays cards. These women are celebrated, not renounced, even in the unforgiving comments sections online. For every troll, there are those who fight for Bhanot, for feminism, for the need for the paintings and what they represent. Here, 27-year-old Bhanot, who graduated from OCAD University in Toronto, talks to…

THE FIRST TIME I met Zaha Hadid was about 20 years ago in London. I'd been taken to an exhibition of some of the buildings, spaces, and objects she'd designed, and her work great was like nothing I'd ever seen before-modern but sensual, and moving all at the same time. I wanted to meet her, so I arranged to visit her studio. Meeting her was a little bit like the first time I met Barbra Streisand. I had difficulty making sense of how this woman in front of me was the same one who'd created this work that seemed so much larger than life-like, "You did that?" Zaha was so warm, so personable, so grand. She reminded me of my late husband in a way, because he was also an…

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HOTEL VAGABOND, SINGAPORE Set in a restored art deco building, this new hotel made news even before it opened. Because it marks the Asian debut of celebrated French designer, Jacques Garcia, whose past projects include Hotel Danieli in Venice and New York’s Nomad. But here, French design meets Indian aesthetics. The red, black, and gold lobby lounge features Indian elements like life-size elephant sculptures by the elevator and brass banyan tree pillars. A brass rhino doubles as a reception desk and was created over eight months across 15 villages in Rajasthan. It’s no wonder—the property is the first from entrepreneur Satinder Garcha’s Garcha Hotels. An international polo player, documentary maker, and property developer, Garcha has worked with the likes of Zaha Hadid and Kelly Hoppen, and photography from his polo…

Amsterdam has added another feather to its cap with the opening of its Modern Contemporary Museum. Steps away from the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum, its inaugural exhibits feature over 50 works by Banksy and Andy Warhol. To add to the viewing experience, make sure you stay at the Conservatorium—the hotel features Banksy in its lobby lounge, has special coffee-table books and cocktails inspired by the artist, and its guests can enjoy after-hours visits to the museum. www.conservatoriumhotel.com ; www.mocomuseum.com A RENOVATED 19TH -CENTURY MANO Roverlooking vine-covered hills, the Six Senses Douro Valley is set amid the world’s oldest demarcated wine region. Which is why oenophiles will love the resort’s newly launched wine programme that celebrates the area it inhabits. It includes daily tastings, a list of 700…

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“There’s a reason why forty, fifty, and sixty don’t look the way they used to,” declared the legendary Nora Ephron in a famous essay. “It’s because of hair dye.” As she observed, only seven percent of American women coloured their hair in the 1950s. Then, as now, however, Bazaar was leading the way. This image, published in 1959, illustrates a story on ‘the New Fauve Motif’, urging readers to dye their locks a temporary shade of mauve, pea green, or candy floss. “Few effects have a greater femme fatale potential than hair flicking, off the green (or blue or coral) lights of a closely matched gown,” the magazine declared. To enhance the look, nails can be varnished in shades of porcelain (violet, buttercup, azure, leaf, and white): “You may go…

1 3D FLORALS FOR SPRING How do designers reinvent a staid summertime staple into something mouthwatering? Ask Burberry’s Christopher Bailey or Delpozo’s Josep Font. They both used dyed feathers to create cool flowers as all-over motifs on dresses. Then there is Oscar de la Renta’s Peter Copping, who put blooms in pastel tones made of faux fur all over a long, loose jacket. Chanel’s acrylic periwinkles, Badgley Mischka’s clustered carnations, and Rodarte’s sequinned roses all literally stood out for their creativity. We’d ask you to take a while and smell the flowers, but right now, investing in them may be a better idea. 2 TAKE A BOW Ever since Alessandro Michele’s debut at Gucci for Fall 2015, the bow has had a major comeback. This season, you can see it…

20 days of travel each month 4 cities she calls home 3 litres of buckwheat tea per day 6:30 A.M. I’m an early riser. I like the mornings and that’s the time I exercise. I love to go for a swim before the workday begins. I’ve been exerting my shoulders a lot and I’ve got a ripped tendon, so I’ve started swimming again. In Bengaluru, I have a gym at home so I exercise there, which is great because I don’t want to go out that early in the morning. But I do go out to the pool whenever I have to swim. 7:30 A.M. Whenever I’m travelling, I work around my jet lag... I basically never sleep it off, because I fly so frequently. Sometimes, though, I cheat and…

NEW DIRECTION Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders, who shuttered his London-based label in December 2015, is joining Diane von Fürstenberg as the brand’s first-ever chief creative officer. Known for his lively prints and unabashed use of colour, Saunders is expected to fit right into the label and its upbeat, optimistic aesthetic. Although he follows in a line of male designers—like Michael Herz and Nathan Jenden—who’ve worked alongside von Fürstenberg, none of them had the opportunity to guide the label into the future. “The spirit with which this brand was founded is incredibly relevant today. I am thrilled to be part of its next chapter,” says Saunders. DESERT SPRING Host to the country’s most famous literature fest, the Pink City has inspired chocolate brand All Things and Jaipur-based apparel and jewellery label…

1 Structured Cover Anand Bhushan jacket, 35,000. 2 Patterned Piece Dries Van Noten shoe, price upon request. 3 Verdant Print Olivia von Halle pants, 37,000. 4 Hide & Seek Oscar de la Renta top, price upon request. 5 Braided Heel Sergio Rossi shoe, 79,000. 6 Fit & Flare Dolce & Gabbana dress at matchesfashion.com, 2,00,000. 7 Metal Desire Amethyst cuff, 17,000. 8 Uncut Stones Revere necklace at carmaonlineshop.com, price upon request.…

ORNATE TIARAS, GRAPHIC BACKPACKS, OVERSIZED EARRINGS—Spring 2016 was all about invoking the maximalist spirit. More is more was this season’s customary approach to accessorising, minimalism be damned. While brands like Chanel looked to traditional jewels like pearls for their overt chokers, Hemant and Nandita (closer home) and Dolce & Gabbana opted for elaborate sunglasses, along with Gucci, whose big frames are everywhere. Here’s a curated listing of the only accessories that you’ll need to stand out this summer.…

Much like most other jewellery pieces, earrings got the dramatic treatment this time around. Inspired by the graphic art deco designs of the ’60s, Marni created a collection of giant acrylic danglers. At Alexander McQueen, designer Sarah Burton adorned each model’s lobes with shoulder grazing chandeliers. Gucci and Oscar de la Renta also debuted some outrageously cool statement earrings. “A stunning linear earring is the one essential accessory for me this season. I love the sense of movement that long earrings create. When paired with a scarf and hair ornaments, a pair of earrings completes your look,” says jewellery designer Suhani Pittie.…

1 GET GLOWY “Reflective makeup makes skin look smoother as light bounces off,” says makeup artist Andrew Sotomayor. “But make sure the shimmer is very fine and subtle. Think satin, not sequins.” Apply bronzer over cheeks and around the hairline, then add blush to the apples of your cheeks. 2 HI-TECH AT HOME Radio frequency treatments in dermatology offices firm skin as heat triggers fresh collagen. Take the technology home at a lower power with this handheld. “Expect results in 30 to 60 days,” says New York dermatologist Patricia Wexler. 3 PERK UP EYES “Your eyes are your smartest investment,” says San Diego dermatologist Melanie Palm. Caffeine in the Clinique cream relieves puffiness, while moisturisers in Epique plump lines. 4 PREP AND PRIME Use a primer if your skin is…

“YOU WERE ALWAYS SO GUTSY,” mused my college mate Kusum, recalling my nonchalance during rat dissections. “Hmm,” I responded, unsure whether my fearlessness during this gory procedure was really praiseworthy: Or was I a Dexter in the making? As long as I can remember, I have been labelled the ‘gutsy’ one: Friends and family rely on me to kill roaches, trap kitchen mice, and handle other tough stuff. It turns out that I have been blessed with a so-called ‘strong’ stomach, designed to handle unpleasant situations. The gut, in fact, determines several facets of our health and disposition. Research shows that the trillions of microbes or bacteria in our stomach actively influence our happiness, moods, immunity, as well our predisposition to obesity, allergies, cancer, bi-polar disorder, Alzheimer’s, and other conditions.…

SHIRLEY SETIA: In April 2013, a 19-year-old teenager in New Zealand decided she wanted more people to listen to her voice and music. She used her laptop to record her version of the song Tum Hi Ho, and it went viral. That teenager was Shirley Setia, now 22, and a veritable YouTube singing sensation whose channel has almost 250k subscribers and 20 million views. “When I started, my motivation was to reach out to a global audience and more music lovers like me,” she says. Today, in addition to her covers, Setia has released two original songs and does stage performances across India. And she’s moved to Mumbai to pursue a Bollywood singing career. “People appreciate Bollywood music in New Zealand, but you can’t make it a full-time profession there.…

He [Khakhar] upturned the notion of an artist working in a secluded, solitary space. I shared a studio with him, and it was always open to friends. He was also passionate about cricket, so at times a match may be playing on television as he worked. The architect who designed his home had built a studio upstairs, but he said he wanted to paint in his living room so people could drop by, have tea, and talk. Once he came out, late in his life in the 1980s, he was free. He painted his erotic and homo-erotic pieces without inhibitions, in front of anyone. He loved to joke and tease people, and was very charming. Only he could have the governor of the RBI sit cross-legged on a diwan as…