Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2015 i Harper's Bazaar India

1 THE COLLECTION Forget ornate embellishments—what made Anju Modi’s couture lineup memorable was her artistic mix of tone-on-tone embroideries, prints lifted from Persian tiles, and diaphanous fabrics mixed with heavy silks and velvets. For the sheer lightness of it, Modi’s collection ticks all the right boxes. 2 NEW PAIRINGS Two westernwear staples have made quiet inroads into Indian designs this season. Via fashion doyenne Ritu Kumar’s celebration of the Benarasi sari, the legging got a makeover. Worn under a half-draped nine-yarder, the legging ensured a slim silhouette and, for those not used to saris, an easier walk. At Rahul Mishra, the bomber replaced the blouse atop a lehenga, eliminating the need for the traditional chunni. 3 THE BLING TO CHOOSE The perfect accessories for the bride-to-be? Embellished, of course, but…

What is it like, being at the same job for 50 years? Work is my biggest priority and I am lucky. At Fendi, I have the chance to do what I want and work in marvelous conditions. That’s why our collaboration is the longest in fashion, still lasting after 50 years. I’ve stayed passionate about Fendi because I have no exclusivity contract. It’s like an open-marriage situation, and I am not tired of it at all. Do you think you will ever run out of inspiration or ideas? Innovation and experimentation are historically part of the Fendi DNA. We have revolutionised fur and the way of working with it, making the bourgeois furs disappear. We have developed new techniques and treated unique furs in a very modern way, making them…

5:30 A.M. I I wake up in installments. First, around 5:30-6:00 a.m., and then I’m somewhat awake by 7:00 a.m. I can’t wake up instantly, unless I have the pressure of a show or something. I wait for my morning tea. I only fully wake up after I’ve had my tea and biscuits. My body is my alarm, so I don’t need to set one. With tea, I read the newspapers. Fashion can be a very myopic industry where people have no clue about what’s happening in the outside world. So I like to keep myself informed beyond my work. It does not necessarily have anything to do with design. But somewhere down the line it always helps, because if you’re designing for people, you need to understand society at…

1 Patched Up Etro at net-a-porter.com net-a-porter.com dress, 1,29,000 (approx). 2 Caramel Shades Bvlgari sunglasses, price upon request. 3 Tough Suede BCBG Max Azria skirt, 22,500 (approx). 4 Gilty Pleasure Amrapali earrings, 4,900. 5 Fringe Frenzy Burberry Prorsum bag, price upon request. 6 Rich Tapestry Lanvin at matchesfashion.com top, 1,00,00 (approx). 7 Round About Hermès cuff, price upon request. 8 Second Skin Altuzarra shoe, price upon request. 9 Mixed Media Ashima & Leena top, 15,000. 10 Slim Choices Chanel belt, price upon request. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

DO YOU REMEMBER the last time an entire fashion line was sold out within four hours of its debut? Or when people marked launch dates on their calendars so they could be the first ones to Instagram themselves in the new looks? It’s true in the case of Swedish fast fashion giant H&M’s collaborations with designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Jimmy Choo, and Alexander Wang. And it’s possible to credit Ann-Sofie Johansson for giving rise to the phenomena. The tour de force behind designer associations, Johansson has revolutionised the way designerwear trickles down to the masses. Street style star and fashion commentator Anna Dello Russo equated the popularity of these partnerships to the novelty only Apple products enjoy in this first-seen-first-bought era. Johansson meets me on a sunny afternoon in Stockholm…

Get great hair without putting it under stress. Brace yourself for a mane revolution as Remington is launched in India by Gryphon Appliances. Making styling easy this wedding season, these tools cause the least possible damage to your hair while giving it impeccable style. The products employ keratin, which not only enhances the shine and softness of your hair, but also protects it when styling. HOT ROLLERS Get long-lasting curls with wax-filled rollers. In three sizes, the rollers retain heat for a longer period and ensure your curls set faster and last longer. An indicator light is also provided to ensure that the rollers are ready to use. KERATIN DRYER This has an advanced keratin ceramic coated grille, which gives 90 percent more ions for frizz-free shine. The three-heat, two-speed…

THE TRADITIONALIST Keep it classic with red lips. While they are fool-proof, there’s still a method. Wear the lipstick straight from the tube and the lip liner afterwards. Applying the liner after makes it easier to glide on. Plus, it’s easier to shape lips when they have some colour on. Another way to ride the crimson tide: Dab the colour with your finger on the centre of your lips and blend it outwards. Pat with a tissue and dab on another coat. Reapply and blot a third time to get colour that’s soft but doesn’t budge. Finish with concealer around the mouth. THE MODERNIST Bid adieu to tradition and go for goth. Delve into the decadence with deep berries, plums, and chocolate. Prep the lips by exfoliating with a brown…

BLACK BOOK Visit the Salt Escape, Mumbai, and lie back in a sun lounger, but instead of the sun and sand, you'll find salt. Meant for people with respiratory disorders, its air-tight rooms work as salt caves, where German pharmaceutical salt is pumped into the air via the air conditioning. This salt helps clear the lungs for better breathing. POUT PARADE Oxblood and crimson are a rage this season, but sometimes you really need a pop of colour to brighten the day. Lakmé Absolute Lip Pouts deviate from the usual reds with a playful colour palette that includes zingy oranges and pinks. Available in both matte and cream finishes, you can wear the colour as is or create an easy ombre lip. SEAL YOUR LOCKS Forget heat-protecting creams. Tresemmé’s Ionic…

BRIGITTE SINGH The Jaipur-based designer spent years trying to accurately block print the traditional Mughal-era poppy design, often seen in decorative borders of paintings or architectural façades. Working with craftsmen at her studio, a converted haveli near Amber Fort, she creates pieces like coats, tunics, curtains, and bags with the floral motif. One of these, a beautifully lined quilted cotton coat, is on display at The Fabric of India. It ties with one of the exhibition’s key objects, a Mughal floorspread from the 17th century with a fine poppy design that could give the impression of a blooming garden when placed on the floor, and shows how traditional patterns and techniques can be adapted for contemporary consumers. Singh, 60, whose clothes retail at stores in India, UK, Belgium, Korea, Japan,…

LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23 Smile to yourself as others place masses of importance on an issue you think trivial. Then accept that there are those whose values are very different from your own. There’s much to be learned from trying to see things from the perspective of people whose paths rarely cross yours. They’ll be intrigued by what you can teach them, too. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Conscience gets a lot of credit that belongs to cold feet. SCORPIO OCTOBER 24–NOVEMBER 22 By being conscientious, you’ve made a success of potential disaster areas. But don’t be surprised if others suggest you could have done better. A tactless remark mustn’t leave you feeling angry. Put your energy into what you hope for in the future. Let go. Motto of the month…

Modesty is a word not often used in fashion—this is an industry prone to dramatic displays of ego and excess—but it is now at the heart of the house of Valentino, thanks to the creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. I’ve witnessed their quiet approach behind the scenes, during the run-up to half a dozen shows; and on each occasion, they remain calm, composed, and clearly supportive of each other and their team of assistants and white-coated seamstresses. But it’s not just their gently collaborative way of working that suggests a lack of arrogance; their signature designs for Valentino turn modesty into a fine art. Consider the chaste floor-length gowns, long sleeves, high necks, and graceful decorum that have become such a key part of the Valentino aesthetic;…

October is a great time of the year. It harks the beginning of all things celebratory—weddings, parties, festivals, and, of course, the run-up to year-end blowouts. Which is why this issue of Harper’s Bazaar is completely about how to get yourself season-ready. There is the Couture Report, on the latest trends (pg 112); why the jacket sari is the new way to dress (The Way Forward, pg 58); and how the trouser is the hot new separate to be paired with everything Indian (An Unlikely Pair, pg 160). Plus, the kings (and queen) of couture, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri (It Takes Two, pg 186), and Sabyasachi Mukherjee give us a glimpse into their workings (24 Hours, pg 66). Cover girl Shraddha Kapoor too epitomises this spirit of…

Today, the Benarasi sari is a must-have in any Indian trousseau, its jacquard weave distinct among designer cuts and big-label handbags. But there was a time when it fell out of favour. Post-independence, the government’s efforts to popularise what was essentially a craft reserved for royalty led to poor production and cost cutting that affected quality and therefore demand. “The actual decline started pre-independence, with the British levying heavy taxes on local crafts to promote foreign products in this market,” says designer Ritu Kumar, whose Lakmé Fashion Week Winter-Festive 2015 collection was dedicated to the Benarasi weave. She worked with local weavers for over a year to create the handful of saris that made the cut and appeared in her show. Since 2010, the Benarasi has steadily crept back into…

1 Plush Comfort Prabal Gurung at modaoperandi.com dress, 99,000 (approx). 2 Top Drops Diacolor earrings, price upon request. 3 Structured Flares J Brand at net-a-porter.com pants, 32,000 (approx). 4 Link It Louis Vuitton anklet, price upon request. 5 Lady Loafers Salvatore Ferragamo shoe, price upon request. 6 Dark Ties Gauri & Nainika top, 9,500 (approx). 7 Flower Power Aurelle ring, price upon request. 8 Bright Accents Giorgio Armani belt, price upon request. 9 Rich Pickings Abraham & Thakore jacket, 12,500. 10 Deep Steps Givenchy shoe, price upon request. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

IN WITH THE OLD Gowns may be back in Indian couture, but did you know what they have brought back with them? Kundan jewellery. Once reserved for traditional getups, the contrast between a voluminous western gown and an antique looking piece of statement jewellery is a modern way to bring the two worlds together. “I love the pairing. It’s unexpected, fresh, and a great way to wear your heirloom jewels more often,” said Manish Malhotra after his couture show. PIN UP When the world’s foremost diamond company designs one, you know it’s on trend. The quintessential Indian nose pin has got a new spin with Forevermark’s Capricci collection, solitaire nose studs that come with seven ‘jackets’—add-on shapes (pictured around) that can be changed at will—that allow you to wear it…

FEROZA DALAL, retail consultant, recommends Harshita Deshpande, RAR Studio, and The Mauve Unit by Neha Aroraa HARSHITA DESHPANDE A media communication and film graduate from Goldsmiths, University of London, Deshpande fell in love with Indian weaves after a summer of textile design at Central Saint Martins in 2011. Her label, specialising in salwar sets, dresses, and anarkalis, was born from the idea of reviving handloom traditions of India. Kolkata-based, she works with Baluchari weavers in Bisnupur in West Bengal to create vibrant ensembles, but her flagship store is in Pune. RAR STUDIO Three Delhi-based creatives—NIFT graduate Ritesh Rajpoot (with stints at Macy’s and Banana Republic), MBA Aniket Sinha, and Pearl Academy graduate Rishav Sinha (with experiences at L’Affaire, Satya Paul, and Tarun Tahiliani), created RAR Studio to bring together the…

The anTi-ager What: The geneo+ Facial how: The four-layer facial involves exfoliation, infusion with active ingredients, oxygenation, and skin tightening. Despite its heavy-duty effects that tighten, brighten, plump, and hydrate, the facial is extremely gentle on the skin. it starts with a mild microdermabrasion, after which the skin is drenched with a nutrient-rich infusion according to your skin type. The skin is then oxygenated and finally tightened with a tripolar radiofrequency. “i wanted to address problems such as pigmentation, sun damage, and enlarged pores,” says fashion editor Krishna Mukhi. “My skin is a little brighter and the dark patches are less obvious now. i’m happy because my face seems clearer.” Contact: www.theagelessclinic.com THE COMPLEXION CALMER What: Dermalogica Ultra Calming Facial How: This treatment helps reduce sensitivities, making it…

BOOK BRIDE ANGLE The role of a modern-day Cupid (Café Patron), Bollywood awards-style sangeet performances, and trousseau budgets that could finance a small country—debut author Sakshi Salve draws on her experiences of attending weddings, and almost being in one, in The Big Indian Wedding, a satirical compendium complete with quizzes, listicles, and personal stories. FILM FLYING HOME After a premiere at Cannes in 2014, screenings at 22 international film festivals, and eight awards, Titli hits theatres in India this month. What started as an expression of director Kanu Behl’s tumultuous relationship with his father turned into a project that brought together two poles of Indian cinema—Dibakar Banerjee and Yash Raj Films—as producers. Centred on the lives of four men in Delhi’s underbelly, it’s the story of how the youngest of…

She’s sitting in exactly the same place—on a sofa under a portrait of her father, in the Kapoor apartment facing Silver Beach in Juhu, Mumbai—as she was when we last spoke. She’s in give-a-damn clothes as before: A long-sleeved deep blue tee, skinny jeans, and laceless ankle boots in deep tan, with not a hint of makeup. But I instantly sense something fundamental has changed about—evolved in—Shraddha Kapoor in the past year. Once she starts talking, nineteen to the dozen, it’s not hard to figure out what it is. As a “creative, curious person,” she has always wanted to “have as many life experiences as possible” and to be in films. She hails from a family of performers and has always been a talented allrounder—she’s studied theatre, Kathak, Odissi, street…

BACHELORETTE ABU DHABI Forget Dubai—head to the neighbouring Abu Dhabi instead. There’s little in the way of you and an epic last hurrah here. From ladies nights with free cocktails at the Turquoiz beach bar at St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort to Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE, where you can chill in private cabanas during the day, the bash starts with your first Bloody Mary at lunch. Try to make it for the Formula 1 Grand Prix in November to party like the stars—last year, Kim Kardashian dined at Cipriani and visited clubs in Yas Island, while Prince Harry smoked shisha at a private yacht. HVAR The first spot you see when you reach Hvar Town’s ferry port from the city of Split is Carpe Diem—a nightclub across the dock with…

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SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

THERE IS NO DENYING that Sabyasachi single-handedly brought the sari back. Since his multi-border yardages began flying off the shelves in the early 2000s (literally; I was his assistant in 2005 and we were always making new saris to replenish stock), the sari underwent a transformation. It became a ‘designer’ product—as opposed to the mandatory traditional weaves brought to pad bridal trousseaux and left there. And because it became designer, it became ‘desirable’. Today, almost a decade since, the sari stands at the brink of another chrysalis. And this time, it is not one Sabyasachi, but numerous designers who are championing the modernisation of the national drape, and with one voice. If you’ve been keeping up with the fashion roller coaster, you can’t have missed Gaurav Gupta’s pre-stitched saris with…

Zardozi embroideries, enamelled jewellery, and motifs of sadhus and women in ghagras punctuated Stella Jean’s Fall 2015 lineup. Her idea was “to find a meeting point between Italian and Indian culture,” says Jean. There were mini-crini skirts with Indian floral motifs, gowns printed with tribal designs, and oversized pom-poms reminiscent of Himalayan hand knits. Into this she mixed a hint of Moorish architecture—there were loose, long coats that could be imagined sweeping the alleys of the Alhambra palace, and Islamic tessellations cropped up as prints on skirts more than once. Holy men from India were a recurring motif, as were images of temples and folk dancers. “I decided to use these images as immediate reference to a culture in which strong aesthetic values touch everything, from religion to the rites…

1 High Time Marc Jacobs trousers, 53,000 (approx). 2 Dual Tone Dior earrings, price upon request. 3 Bucket List Salvatore Ferragamo bag, price upon request. 4 Boxed In Namrata Joshipura top, 9,800. 5 A Soft Touch Emporio Armani scarf, price upon request. 6 Fine Print Ilk skirt, 15,500. 7 Wide Angled Hermès hat, price upon request. 8 Mood Indigo Omega watch, price upon request. 9 Sweet Victorian See by Chloè at matchesfashion.com shirt, 18,000 (approx). 10 On The Block Miu Miu shoe, price upon request. SEE WHERE TO BUYFOR DETAILS…

1 Wide Belts Tod’s belt, 33,000. 2 Tiered Necklaces Mawi necklace, 42,000. 3 Sorbet Shades Pankaj & Nidhi pants, 12,500. 4 Ceramic and Pearls Céline earrings, price upon request. 5 Ankle Booties Alexander McQueen shoe, price upon request. 6 Neoprene Pankaj & Nidhi top, 9,500. 7 Geometric Patterns Loewe bag, 1,35,000. 8 Collars Eddie Borgo collar, 33,000. 9 Mod Dresses Red Valentino dress, 30,000. 10 Slingbacks Sophia Webster shoe, price upon request. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

After a hiatus of two-plus seasons, the big, wide belt is back, and how! Designers have made it in exotic skins, embellished it with artful buckles, embroidered it, woven it into origamic shapes, and used it to add colour to monotone ensembles. It even got Giorgio Armani’s approval, when he sent out metallic ones on crisp white shirts over dark lowers. Does that mean the focus moves to the waist this season? Yes, it definitely does. And the best part, you don’t need to show it to grab attention. The belt will do that for you.…

BRIDAL REDS abound in all shades ranging from deep marsala at Rohit Bal to bold coral at Monisha Jaising. Traditionally an auspicious tone, the return of red to the Indian ramps mimics the colour’s international popularity. For innovative takes, look to Manish Malhotra’s all-red chikankari gowns and Ashima-Leena’s appliquéd Southern-style temple-border saris. DARK TONES of navy, brown, and black continue to add mystique to an otherwise celebratory season. Sabyasachi’s goth bride set the tone with embellished gowns in dull grey, a theme that Rohit Bal carried foward in mud-toned silk maxis topped with dark overcoats with floral motifs. Gaurav Gupta plumbed the depths of the sea in deep, sapphire blue drapes. Wear these colours with minimal jewels for the ideal effect. TIERS , layers, and ruffles hint at the luxury…

DILEMMA: SENSITISED SKIN Sensitised skin is different from sensitive skin, and is caused due to over peeling or an irritable reaction to a product. Be tender with your skin. Avoid soap and anything that dries your skin out, because dryness leads to redness, tightness, and even burning. In fact, sensitivity occurs when the lipid (oil) barrier of your skin is demolished. So use creamy cleansers and emollient moisturisers, and top it up with a facial oil to restore this barrier. Research has shown that oats are rich in avenanthramides, which help alleviate irritation and redness. Try Skin Yoga Oats and Red Roses Cleanser ( 1,450) to calm your complexion. In addition, opt for a cooling and rejuvenating oxygen facial at your dermatologist clinic to calm irritations. If your skin is…

WITH A BIBLIOGRAPHY of just three novels, Anuradha Roy may not be a household name. But what she lacks in quantity, she makes up for in quality. Her first, An Atlas of impossible Longing (2008), was translated in 15 languages; her second, The Folded Earth (2012), won the Economist Crossword Prize for Fiction; and her latest, Sleeping on Jupiter, was the only novel by an Indian writer on the Man Booker Prize 2015 longlist. But her literary prowess as an author isn’t surprising—her first stories were published in The Indian Express when she was just 14 years old. Now 47, her place on the list seems inevitable. Not, however, to her. Sleeping on Jupiter was a story she needed to tell. And her hopes for it were simple: That a…

Remove buffet from your culinary vocabulary, at least in the context of Indian weddings. Consider, instead, food islands, sit-down dinners, theatrical displays, and bite-sized explosions of flavours. Indian weddings today are about perfect food curation, impeccable presentation, and, well, that element of surprise. How else do you make the food stand out, given that most of these grand affairs focus on Indian dishes? For chef-restaurateur Varun Tuli, owner of Food Inc., who has done everything from putting together a fully Indian banquet for actor Dia Mirza’s wedding to a coastal spread for a 600-people mehendi ceremony, the demand for homegrown cuisine was, and remains, the highest across the board. And this poses a challenge. Enter: Global food trends that elevate local staples like butter chicken or Agra paranthas to gourmand…

Smartphones have changed the way women think. Always wanted to see which eye shadow best complements the colour of your pout, or which shade of blush brings out the best of your features? With Lakme Makeup Pro, you can now try out the entire look with minimum effort. Revolutionizing the world of cosmetics, this app is equipped with an array of textures and colors of Lakme products, over 100 shades and 75 Prostylist looks to choose from. And the best part? You can try the makeup real-time, and not just on a static photo. So start experimenting with your looks and try something new. GET THE LOOK STEP 1 Prep your skin with the Lakm6 Absolute Skin Mattreal Skin Natural Mousse- Golden Light. Then conceal with Lakm6 Absolute White Intense…

...have fun with fashion. Buy inexpensive clothes, wear them with style, and make them look good. Price tags will never buy you great style. ...dress up for a date with yourself. Enjoy fine wine, great food, and the best possible company—yourself! ...empty your closet of items you don’t and won’t wear—clothes should have an expiry date like milk and bread. ...figure out the age when you were the happiest and decide to stay that age mentally. ...visit flea markets, rummage through the wares to find the coolest vintage clothes and accessories, and mix them with your current wardrobe. It’s the best way to always stand apart and have original style. ...surprise yourself by wearing mismatched colours and clothes. The best fashion rule is that there are no rules. ...give yourself…