Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2015 i Harper's Bazaar India

Let the curves of this sinewy ring rest comfortably on your finger. Reinventing the classics takes on a new meaning in this Chanel No. 5 minaudière. Material play—leather, metal, stone—comes in all shapes and sizes this season. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

BLACK VELVET, IF YOU PLEASE As one of this season’s star fabrics, velvet revels in the versatility with which designers have treated it. Peter Dundas at Pucci made embroidered shorts and flowing capes out of it, Ralph Lauren crafted slinky gowns, and the French iconoclast Sonia Rykiel even turned it into a jumpsuit (more sexy than sporty for its plunging neckline). Wearing velvet is easier than it seems. It must always be the focus: Wear it as a single piece (a printed Vivienne Westwood dress, perhaps) or as a final finishing touch—a Giorgio Armani jacket. LACE IS MORE Forget the peasant blouse and the peeping bralet of seasons past. This fall, lace has come into its own, and how! Guipure or Chantilly, Victorian or crochet, lace is everywhere: In shirts…

THE STAR OF THE FUTURE This year alone, Vikander, 26, will be seen in eight movies, including the US cult hit Ex Machina, Guy Ritchie’s The Man From U.N.C.L.E. with Henry Cavill, The Danish Girl opposite Eddie Redmayne, Tulip Fever opposite Christoph Waltz and Judie Dench, and The Light Between Oceans opposite Michael Fassbender. She has already been nominated for the BAFTA Rising Star Award (for Anna Karenina, 2012) and has also worked opposite Mads Mikkelsen in the Academy Award-winning A Royal Affair (2013). THE RED CARPET SENSATION From printed separates to goddess gowns, Vikander carries off everything with ease. Since she came on board as muse at Louis Vuitton in May this year, she has been seen exclusively dressed in Ghesquière’s designs at events and premieres across the world.…

MEET MR ANDERSON This month marks a year since the ramp debut of Jonathan William Anderson as creative director of Spanish luxury leather brand Loewe, and 2015 is his 10th year as a graduate of the London College of Fashion. On the 17th of this month, Anderson turns 31, and it also flags his two years at Loewe officially. His story started in 2008 with the launch of his men’s label. And while it brought him critical acclaim, it was as recently as 2010 that he designed for women. He even got funded by Topshop in 2012 as part of their NewGen scheme for young designers, and collaborated with Versus, Versace’s mid-priced line, in early 2013 (an experiment that didn’t really take off). In September 2013, the luxury conglomerate LVMH…

FOOD TAKE A BAO A new take on Asian hawker food at restaurateur AD Singhs newest Delhi launch—The Fatty Bao New Delhi’s dining scene gets a hot new entrant: The Fatty Bao. From small sharing plates to steaming bowls of ramen, it’s Asian-style food with a twist. Think brie tempura with plum sauce, duck pizza on a crisp tortilla, and the special PB&J—twice cooked pork belly with a mustard miso jam. With sushi and salads, curries and cakes, the menu is far from limited. But what they’re known for most is the eponymous fatty bao, an open-faced dumpling that looks like a fluffy taco (try the pork belly with green apple kimchi), and the hearty ramen meals. The new branch is the latest of restaurateur AD Singh’s chain, following the…

SHOBANA JEYASINGH, CHOREOGRAPHER There’s nothing that doesn’t inspire London-based choreographer Shobana Jeyasingh. The detail and grounding in bharatanatyam, the cellular movements of plants, the detached control with which Neo stops bullets in The Matrix, the interaction of man and machine in Ex Machina somehow weave their way into her contemporary dance pieces. It’s about exercising intelligence through dance, she says. At the helm of the Shobana Jeyasingh Dance repertory, a company she founded in 1988, Jeyasingh’s staged choreographies, though rooted in classical Indian traditions, are modern and urbane. Her productions have toured worldwide, premiered at prestigious venues like London’s Royal Opera House and St Paul’s Cathedral, and the Venice Biennale, and resulted in an MBE in 1995—none of which was even a distant dream. She grew up between Sri Lanka…

This year marks Giorgio Armani’s 40 years in fashion. But that’s not his greatest milestone. The Italian legend began the trend of fashion labels dressing stars for movies (with Richard Gere in American Gigolo in 1980). He changed the structure of a westernwear staple—he was the first to make an unlined, unstructured formal jacket. And he gave us the leather bomber in 1973, a full two years before he launched his label proper. He has been on the cover of Time magazine (1982, only in his seventh year in the business), and has his own Giorgio Armani Day (Patron Saint of Elegance?) celebrated in New York every October 24 since 2013. So what would be a fitting way to celebrate this man, this force of fashion who once banned one…

LONDON, ENGLAND Jinjuu: The place du jour brought Korean dishes to an industrial space in Kingly Court with its January opening, attended by models Amber le Bon and Julia Restoin Roitfeld, football players, and designers. Sip a Kimchi Mary at the loud ground floor bar before heading to the basement for mains—chef Judy Joo knows her way around pajeon pancakes and perfectly glazed pork belly. www.jinjuu.com Barrafina: The queues begin even before the no-reservation Spanish tapas bar opens its doors for lunch or dinner. Terse menu descriptors don’t do justice to the food, and ‘classic tortilla’ comes as a fluffy, round omelette with oozing egg yolk. It’s no wonder that the casual charm of the Soho favourite, which now has two more branches, won a Michelin star last year. www.barrafina.co.uk…

September is all about change, a chance to shake things up. It’s a time for a new look, new clothes, new designers. This fall, a far cry from spring and its love, peace, and happiness vibe, has gone dark and sexy. Its hottest trends include Victoriana, goth, and tapestry, influences that haven’t been within spitting distance of wardrobes for more than a decade, and yet seem covetable and wearable now. Never more so than when broken down by fashion editor Krishna Mukhi in ‘Fall’s New Tapestry’ and junior fashion editor Rahul Vijay in ‘Gothic Tales’. A whole new guard of designers take over too, from Gucci to Hermès. But one of fall’s most special shows took place Stateside, where Peter Copping showed his first collection at Oscar de la Renta…

1 THE SHOULDER BAG The ’70S-INSPIRED shape gets a refresh in monochrome tones. 2 THE MOTO BOOT CHUNKY SOLES AND FUR ACCENTS offer a fashionable take on a fall favourite. 3 THE VEST A WIDE LAPEL proposes comfort and elegance. 4 THE MINI BAG Good things come in SMALL PACKAGES when a micro purse meets a chain-link strap. 5 THE CROPPED PANT Trade your old trousers for ones that hit just ABOVE THE ANKLE. 6 THE CHAINSTRAP BAG BOLD HARDWARE makes an impact as a wardrobe must-have. 7 THE NEW MARY JANE A classic grows up with a STACKED HEEL and an oversize buckle. 8 THE CLUTCH GRAPHIC STRIPES present a stylish evening option. 9 THE FURRY JACKET This ARCTIC WHITE showstopper lets you keep your cool. 10 THE ANKLE…

ANTHONY CUTHBERTSON AT SASS & BIDE When founders Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke left Sass & Bide in July 2014, the Australian label floundered a bit. It began in 1999 as a funky line of jeans bought commercially and customised by the two friends, but developed into a proper fashion brand over the years. Sarah Jessica Parker wore Sass & Bide in Sex and the City once. As the founders left, enter Cuthbertson, a graduate of London’s Royal College of Art with stints at Ralph Lauren, Mulberry, and Victoria Beckham under his belt. With his first collection, he has nailed the brand’s look and glamwarrior signature. ALESSANDRO MICHELE AT GUCCI Till the press releases went out, nobody knew Alessandro Michele. His debut, which he had only about a month to…

F rom traditional saris to evening gowns, gleaming yards of tussar to Uppada silk, sparkly sequins to vintage zardozi, ready to wear pret to custom-made lehengas-the Indian bridal trousseau is a veritable compendium of Indian handlooms and international silhouettes. But in its glorious diversity is the undeniable struggle of making sure nothing is left out. The solution? Frontier Raas, a one-stop-shop for the best of bridalwear. The store in New Delhi's South Extension area has a history that dates back to 1954 in Phagwara in Punjab, the state known for phulkari embroidery and colourful juttis. Late Shri Bansi Lai Batra started a business that his two sons, Anil and Sunil, joined over the years. They carried it to Delhi in 2000 with a store in Karol Bagh, and finally in…

BLACK AND WHITE is the It pairing of the season. Seen in Dior’s cardigans, Abraham & Thakore’s embroideries, Narciso Rodriguez’s blocked layers, Balenciaga’s weaves, and Lanvin’s black highlights, the new way is to wear it with restraint. Designers across the world kept their accessories and makeup minimal, and so should you. MENSWEAR is having its moment with structured outerwear, slouchy pants, double-breasted jackets, shirts, checks, padded shoulders, you name it. Don widelapelled tweed suits à la Chloé or go for a Valentino shirt dress for an easy take on this trend. ROMANTIC pastels, soft pelts, frills, and floral prints make for a feminine, pretty theme that runs through the season’s strongest collections (Oscar de la Renta, Preen, Philosophy), and finds ideal expression in Dolce & Gabbana’s love dresses. VICTORIANA is…

When you think of Versace, you think mind-boggling brights with flashes of gold. So a fragrance from the same family has to shout out loud, right? Wrong. Versace’s latest offering, Eros Pour Femme walks the tightrope between being subtle yet sexy, classic yet modern, feminine but with a hint of edge. Donatella Versace explains this duality. “Eros is the Greek god of love and I thought about the woman who would capture his heart—I wanted to encapsulate that in the perfume, the power of seduction as well as the surrender to desire.” The notes are divided into being love at first sight, desire, and then passion. They are a study in opposites—the fizziness of Sicilian lemon and Calabrian bergamot is softened with jasmine and peony. And before you expect the…

VIRGO AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 23 Eventually you should be able to take control of deals or transactions that others have masterminded up until now. Keep reminding yourself there’s no rush. Yes, you are ambitious enough to want to make progress, but aren’t there some other, more light-hearted, things you want to do in the meantime? Think about it. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Better to act than react. LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23 Let your sixth sense guide you as someone suggests that you could be taking on greater responsibilities. You might feel obliged to make many sacrifices or do so much for others you may end up resenting it. Bitterly. Remember, you’re not a miracle worker. Motto of the month What you can’t avoid, welcome. SCORPIO OCTOBER 24–NOVEMBER 22 Someone handling finances…

“I DIDN’T WANT TO OVERTHINK THINGS,” says Peter Copping on the phone from New York. It’s 7:00 p.m. in India, and halfway across the planet, his day has just begun at 9:30 a.m. By the time you read this, Copping, 48, will be a month short of completing his first year at the legendary house of Oscar de la Renta. Also, a month short of the first death anniversary of the man who handpicked him for the job, the founder of the brand. In late 2014, he was hired as the first creative director of the house of Oscar de la Renta, and was to officially start work on November 3. The announcement was made on October 13, and de la Renta, 82, passed away due to cancer-related complications a…

# 3.1 Phillip Lim (www.31philliplim.com) A A.F Vandevorst (www.afvandevorst.be) Abraham & Thakore Delhi (098717 74436) Bengaluru (080 4132 9316) Accessorize Delhi (011 4087 0025) Mumbai (022 6671 0365) Adeam (www.adeam.com) Akris (www.akris. ch) Aldo Delhi (011 4265 8363) Mumbai (022 2481 3561) Alexander McQueen at Le Mill, Mumbai (022 2368 4461) Altuzarra (www.josephaltuzarra.com) Alex Monroe (www.alexmonroe.com) Alexander Wang (www.alexanderwang.com) Amethyst by Rahul Popli Delhi (011 2465 4574) Amrapali Delhi (011 4352 8387) Jaipur (0141 1237 7940) Andrew Gn (www.andrewgn.com) Antonio Marras (www.antoniomarras.it) Artistry available through various Amway distributors ASOS (www.asos.com) Aquazzurra at net-a-porter.com net-a-porter.com Azzedine Alaia (www.alaia.fr) B Balenciaga (www.balenciaga.com) Bamboo Volume at Sephora, Delhi (011 4503 7278) Balmain (www.balmain.com) Bally Delhi (011 6467 0333) BCBG Max Azria (www.bcbg.com) Beauty Boulevard (www.beautyboulevard.co.uk) Beauty Rx (www.beautybyrx.com) Bobbi Brown Delhi (011 4101 8275)…

With this new fashion season, a new, strong, dark age seems to have dawned, one that is in love with everything gothic (Gothic Tales, pg 148), Victorian (Dark Days Ahead, pg 50), and baroque (Fall’s New Tapestry, pg 168). It’s all brooding and sexy, as shown in our list page (Dark Romance, pg 74), our illustrated accessories shoot (On the Orient Express..., pg 85) and even our cover story (pg 160). Spots of bright come via our trend report (pg 101), which has plenty more on fall’s reigning pieces, the glitter story (The Shining, pg 120), and a peek into designer Tommy Hilfiger’s psychedelic Miami home (A Fashionable Life, pg 112). And how can this issue be complete without designer exclusives? We spoke to Giorgio Armani about his 40th anniversary…

FASHION CANTRANSPORT you to another culture, or even a time period. It represents the best (or worst) the age has to offer. The culture, the economy, the artistry of the time, all find expression in clothes. And the biggest trend of Fall 2015, Victoriana, is an example of that power. Black lace, devoré velvets, leather, ruffles and bows, embroidered booties, period gemstones in filigree settings, and encrusted miniaudières are its building blocks, as are maxi skirts, capes, long gloves, and jackets with peplums. The mood of the season—mysterious, dark, and opulent—seems as if it has almost travelled through time, but stopped just short of costume. You can see it in Chanel’s beaded capes and black bows, in Alexander McQueen’s lace halters that peeped out of plunging necklines like modesty pieces…

It’s raining sparkle, crystals, beads, and jewels. Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz sent out Moroccan rock princesses soaked in sequins. At Givenchy, the models were Victorian-meets-Chola girls who wore onyx and pearls on their faces. And at Emilio Pucci, the star signs were embroidered in gold thread on almost everything. What was common among all was the richness of the embellishments, the darkness, and the opulence. This season’s shine is not blinding, but lures you in with its craftsmanship and subtlety. To dress to kill, opt for Altuzarra’s shimmering sheaths, or add that murderous touch with a Serpenti bag from Bulgari.…

SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

UNDONE WAVES Use imperfection to your advantage with worn-in curls GET THE LOOK Waves are popular every season and this time they’re inspired by the ’70s, making them the go-to accessory for fall’s staples, be it the shearling jacket or the pant-suit. To get them right, smoothen hair with a keratin shampoo because this style isn’t all-out messy. Work in a texturiser and twist damp hair into a bun. Unwind the bun, fluff it up, and finish with a shine serum to add polish. DARK DIGITS Decadent, rich shades that are perfect for fall GET THE LOOK Fashion’s love for nude and white nails is at an end. From navy to burgundy, dark nails follow the season’s gothic vibe. To keep nails within this territory, go short and squoval. Give…

7:30 A.M. I usually wake up between 7:30 and 8:30, though it is mostly 7:30. But when I am working, I get up by 6:00, and the first thing I do is have coconut water and a bowl of fruits, along with hot water. After that I go straight down to the gym. 8:30 A.M. I gym for about an hour and a half, doing a combination of yoga, pilates, and cardio with my trainer Radhika. And while doing that, I have a lot of BCAA (branched-chain amino acid) and water to stay hydrated. I only finish by 11:00. And straight after that have breakfast. 11:00 A.M. Basically, since I have had my breakfast, this is like a mid-afternoon kind of meal because fruits and coconut water were my breakfast.…

ROSE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY AS DINA VREELAND “Diana was such an influential, powerful woman who changed fashion from the inside out.” JESSICA CHASTAIN AS JOAN OF ARC “Individuality makes an icon. Joan of Arc inspires me because she fought against society’s constraints. She went against the grain.” OPRAH WINFREY AS GLINDA THE GOOD WITCH “The Wizard of Oz is one of my favourite spiritual tales, and Glinda is a spiritual goddess. I love when she says to Dorothy, ‘You’ve always had the power.’ That is the message for all of us: You’re born with it, you always have it. It doesn’t matter how many yellow brick roads you go down, it’s always right there in your heart.” MARIAH CAREY AS MARIE ANTOINETTE “I’m pretty much the opposite of Marie Antoinette, but it’s…

…wear a bright coloured, suede, pointed toe pump with your work attire. It will bring excitement to your outfit and make for the envy of all the other women in the office. ...treat yourself and your lover to a romantic dinner at New York’s Eleven Madison Park. …buy two or three statement antique furniture or objects to add to your modern home—it will instantly make any room look chic. …pack running shoes when you travel. Running through a new city is always my favourite way to explore and get a workout. …visit the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, held annually in the second weekend of July. It’s a highlight of my year and always a source of great inspiration. ...download the entire last season of Homeland and rewatch…