Innholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2024 i Handwoven

Since 1876 Arizona FIBER CREEK Prescott AZ 86305 (928) 717-1774 fibercreek@hotmail.com California CUSTOM HANDWEAVERS Mountain View Tel: (650) 967-0831 Fax: (650) 967-1005 www.customhandweavers.com webemit@sbcglobal.net CUSTOM HANDWEAVING Redondo Beach Tel: (310) 316-0910 or: (866) 656-1060 www.nancyscustomhandweaving.com customhandweavin@aol.com JULIAN WEAVING WORKS Julian (760) 765-2432 info@weaverslink.com SAN FRANCISCO FIBERS CO. Oakland (510) 893-2015 www.sanfranciscofiber.com lou@sffiber.com Colorado BOUNTIFUL Livermore (877) 586-9332 info@bountifulspinweave.com www.bountifulspinweave.com FIRESIDE COUNTRY STORE Grand Junction 970-858-9288 lynnjenks9@gmail.com Florida  SERENDIPITY FARM & STUDIO Leesburg (757) 651-2632 serendipityfarmstudio@gmail.com Illinois FINE LINE CREATIVE ARTS CENTER St. Charles (630) 584-9443 www.fineline.org info@fineline.org Indiana THE WEAVERS LOFT Guilford (812) 576-3904 weaving@nalu.net www.weaversloft.com Kansas THE YARN BARN Lawrence (800) 468-0035 yarnbarn@sunflower.com Kentucky THE WOOLERY Frankfort tel: (502) 352-9800 fax (502) 352-9802 http://www.woolery.com info@woolery.com Louisiana  WEAVIN' PLACE Folsom (985) 796-8048 www.weavinplace.com cheryl@weavinplace.com Maine HALCYON YARN Bath (207) 442-7909…

Jeremy Frey grew up on the Passamaquoddy Indian Township Reservation in Maine, descended from a long line of weavers. He learned traditional basketweaving techniques from his mother and other family members, as well as from an apprenticeship at the Maine Indian Basketmakers Alliance. As a teenager on the reservation, Frey was pulled into the epidemic of drug abuse. While he was getting sober, his mother encouraged him to keep his hands busy with weaving. He quickly fell under the spell of basketmaking, and he learned to harvest and prepare the natural materials he works with. Jeremy Frey: Woven is a mid-career retrospective exhibit of more than 50 complex and elegant baskets he wove over the past two decades. The exhibit is on view at the Art Institute of Chicago from…

While weavers have been writing down their drafts for hundreds of years, modern weavers may find the notation used in older drafts to be a mystery—to say nothing of the handwriting. In his preface to The Weavers Draft Book and Clothiers Assistant, printed in 1792, John Hargrove explains how to sley cotton, linen, and worsted warps, as well as how to interpret the harness leaves (shafts), threadings, and treadlings of the drafts included in the book. Even relatively recent drafts can be confusing. Let’s take a moment to compare two classic pattern books: A Handweaver’s Pattern Book by Marguerite Davison (published in 1944) and A Weaver’s Book of 8-Shaft Patterns, edited by Carol Strickler (published in 1991). MARGUERITE’S NOTATION In Marguerite Davison’s drafts, the threading is represented by short vertical…

STRUCTURE Color-and-weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 18" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Jacob DK Yarn (100% Jacob wool; about 1,160 yd/lb; Meridian Jacobs), JW23-VO-LL-2 Lilac and JW23-VO-B Black, 267 yd each. Weft: Jacob DK Yarn, JW23-VO-LL-2 Lilac and JW23-VO-B Black, 205 yd each. Note: The JW23 lot of yarn will be sold out by the time this issue is published, but JW24 yarn will be available. See “How to Source Yarn Directly from a Farm,” page 28, to learn how to find and work with small-batch farm-produced yarns, and why yd/lb measurements are approximate. OTHER SUPPLIES Unicorn Fibre Wash for wet-finishing (optional). WARP LENGTH 178 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 7" for take-up, 25" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 10 epi (1/dent in a 10-dent…

STRUCTURE Doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 14" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Naturally Colored unmercerized 10/2 cotton (4,200 yd/lb; American Maid; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), Dark Green, 1,656 yd; Natural White, 1,296 yd. Weft: Naturally Colored unmercerized 10/2 cotton, Dark Green, 1,227 yd; Natural White, 753 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Raddle (optional); warping sticks. Note: Because the warp is beamed at two different densities (20 epi in the green edge sections and 40 epi in the green and white center sections), Tien recommends using warping sticks to evenly tension the warp. Paper separators are not stiff enough. See Weaving Tips for more about managing warp and cloth tension. WARP LENGTH 492 ends 6 yd long (allows 20" for take-up, 40" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 40 epi (20 epi per…

STRUCTURE M’s and O’s. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 18" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #101 Blanchi hand-dyed blue and #101 Blanchi hand-dyed gray, 1,944 yd each. Weft: 8/2 cotton, #101 Blanchi hand-dyed blue, 1,600 yd; #101 Blanchi hand-dyed gray, 1,214 yd. 10/2 unmercerized white cotton (4,200 yd/lb; American Maid; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), hand-dyed red, 276 yd. Note: All the yarns for this project were hand-dyed using natural dyes. See project intro below for more information. Good substitutes in commercially dyed yarns are 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #4274 Bleu Cobalt and #4275 Charcoal for the blue and gray, respectively, and 10/2 cotton (100% cotton; 4,200 yd/lb; Tubular Spectrum; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), #10 Red. WARP LENGTH 432 ends 9 yd long (allows…

After asking you to share your experiences with Deborah Chandler’s book Learning to Weave, we realized that this iconic resource was a vital part of so many weaving journeys. A small selection of your responses is printed here. Many thanks to all who took the time to write. —Handwoven editors In 1994, my first loom came with Deborah’s book. That particular loom was not for me, but I kept the book. Last weekend, my husband said that we hadn’t used the table loom in ages and asked for help getting a warp on it. Of course, weaving is like any other skill—set it down too long, and your brain gets fuzzy about how it all works. I will admit that I made a mess of it. But we made it…

I imagine that, from the outside, most weavers seem pretty similar. We search out and buy large pieces of equipment and then shove the dining table aside to fit it all in the house (I promise, this is the very last loom I’ll buy …). We get worked up about sticky sheds, fragile warps, and wobbly selvedges. Any money left over from loom-buying gets spent on yarn or weaving books or workshops. We seem passionate about “structure,” of all things. Sometimes we even touch strangers’ handwovens while they’re wearing them! But if nonweavers want to learn just how varied we are, they can simply eavesdrop as we talk about color. They might hear: • Neutrals are best. Color is nothing but a distraction from my one true love—texture.• Neutrals are…

What do you call a gathering of weavers? We call it Weave Together with Handwoven, and the next time it happens will be March 23–27, 2025, in beautiful York, Pennsylvania. This weaving retreat has classes, community, and fun, and it is a great place to try out multiple weaving techniques with a minimum of stress. Our lineup of teachers includes several who should be familiar to readers of Handwoven. Karen Donde is offering a class covering a host of structures related to the simplest of all weaves—plain weave. Among them are doubleweave, deflected doubleweave, honeycomb, turned beiderwand, M’s and O’s, and huck lace. You’ll learn how the various structures work and then weave samples of each. John Mullarkey, tablet weaver extraordinaire, is returning with a repeat of his popular shoelaceweaving…

STRUCTURE Doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 13" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #2746 Dark Teal, 711 yd; #8990 Black, 718 yd. Weft: Zephyr 18/2 (50% merino wool/50% silk; 560 yd/50 g; Jagger Spun), Chartreuse, 550 yd. 16/2 unmercerized cotton (6,720 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #5029 Bleu Moyen, 550 yd. WARP LENGTH 408 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take up, 32" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 32 epi (4/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 32 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 13". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 86".  Finished size: (after wetfinishing) 11" × 78" plus 5½" fringe. A MidAtlantic Fiber Association (MAFA) class led by Denise Kovnat inspired this…

STRUCTURE Summer and winter. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 14- or 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 28/1 line linen (100% linen; 7,342 yd/lb; Bockens), 1,704 yd. Background weft: 28/1 line linen (100% linen; 7,342 yd/lb; Bockens), 448 yd. Pattern weft: 22/2 cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 2,900 yd/lb; Venne), #4009 Gobelin and #5003 Peacock, 210 yd each. Note: Regina used 28 Nel unbleached singles linen from her stash for the warp and background weft. OTHER SUPPLIES Cotton sewing thread for hems. WARP LENGTH 568 ends 3 yd long (allows 7" for take-up and 33" for loom waste for two towels; add 37" for each additional towel). SETTS Warp: 28 epi (2/dent in a 14-dent reed or 2-2-3/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in reed: 204/14".…

STRUCTURE Overshot and plain weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2–5 shuttles; 5–7 bobbins; doublebobbin shuttle (optional but recommended). YARNS Warp: 10/2 Ring Spun, Combed Georgia cotton (unmercerized cotton; 4,200 yd/lb; Georgia Yarn Company), Warm Navy, 90 yd; Lt. Cornflower, 1,030 yd; Carolina Blue, 875 yd. Weft: 10/2 Ring Spun, Combed Georgia cotton, Warm Navy, 74 yd; Lt. Cornflower, 749 yd; Carolina Blue, 576 yd; Persimmon, 288 yd; Old Brick, 423 yd. WARP LENGTH 399 ends 5 yd long (allows 13" for take-up and 41" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi (plain weave); 29 ppi (overshot, combined tabby and pattern). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 20". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) about 126". Finished size:…

STRUCTURE Plain weave with floats. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 5/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 2,100 yd/lb; Shiny Dime Fibers), Undyed, 903 yd. Weft: 60/2 silk (14,800 yd/lb; Valley Yarns), #655 Sepia and #644 Aqua, 420 yd each. Pattern weft: 5/2 cotton (2,100 yd/lb; Valley Yarns), #1089 Alabaster, 90 yd. Note: Any light color may be used for the pattern weft. OTHER SUPPLIES Ikat tape (Maiwa); dyeing supplies including tubs/bins, closet rack, window screen, clothespins or clips, rubber baseboard, measuring tools, soda ash; Synthrapol: Fiber Reactive Procion Dyes (Dharma Trading Company), #26 Sky Blue, #27 Midnight Blue, #37 Bronze, #77 Alpine Blue, and #168 Indigo Blue; Fiber Reactive Dyes (Happy Cat Tie Dye), Wand Wood, Mystic Blue, and Strawberry Skies. See “Fun with Ikat…

STRUCTURE Advancing twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 30" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Cascade Silk (1,985 yd/lb; Henry’s Attic; Yarn Barn), white, 1,410 yd. Weft: 20/2 Tussah Silk (4,960 yd/lb; Henry’s Attic; Dharma Trading Co.), semibleached, used doubled, 2,308 yd. Trim: 8/2 Cascade Silk, 16 yd for singlecrochet edge; more for optional edging. OTHER SUPPLIES Sewing thread, matching and contrasting; crochet hook, size C-2/2.75 mm or size needed to work 8 sc/in. WARP LENGTH 470 ends 3 yd long (includes 2 floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 20" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed) Weft: 16 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 294/8". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 80". Finished size: (after wetfinishing) body fabric, 24" × 58";…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 37" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Alpaca Fino (100% alpaca; 219 yd/100 g; AppleOak FibreWorks), Caramel, 1,085 yd. Weft: Alpaca Fino, Caramel, 536 yd. Simply Alpaca Aran (100% alpaca; 246 yd/100 g; Knit Picks), Alton, 66 yd (see Weaving Tip). OTHER SUPPLIES Temple (recommended). WARP LENGTH 434 ends 2½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 5" for take-up, 30" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 12 epi (1/dent in a 12-dent reed).  Weft: 10 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 362/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 53". Finished size: (after wetfinishing and hemming) 32" × 48" plus 6" fringe. My wife and I love to travel. Not too long ago, we went to Peru to see…

1. Celebration Romper MALYNDA ALLEN The idea of making a special outfit for a new baby from handwoven fabric appealed to designer Malynda Allen, who loves to weave and sew. This sweet romper is just right for a christening or wedding, or any other dress-up event. 2. Inspired by Indigo Pillows TEGAN FRISINO Lounge in style with this pair of lumbar pillows featuring designer Tegan Frisino’s modern take on overshot. Her inspiration came from the process of indigo dyeing—the surface of an indigo vat ripples gently as fiber is lifted out of it, and that fiber dramatically changes color from green to deep blue as it’s exposed to oxygen. 3. Natural Charm Dish Towels MELANIE SMITH The challenge: Create the look of 4-shaft twills using a rigidheddle loom with an…