Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2024 i Handwoven

Two weeks ago while in Boston, I visited the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The museum is housed in a beautiful Venetian-style mansion and holds a collection of art that is mind-boggling in its beauty and scope. I lived in Boston in the early 1980s and went there frequently, often attending small classical concerts and superficially admiring the artwork. I hadn’t been there since. Forty years later, both of us had changed. In the 1980s, a path led to the mansion’s front door. In 2016, a gorgeous modern glass structure was added to the museum to protect and expand it. That enclosure contains the library, gift store, entrance lobby, and café. The artwork and architecture that I didn’t fully appreciate in my 20s completely overwhelmed me in my 60s. My sister…

Unraveling What I Learned about Life While Shearing Sheep, Dyeing Wool, and Making the World’s Ugliest Sweater By Peggy Orenstein First, you shear a sheep… Do you remember that time (very long ago for me) when everything about spinning wool and making things from that gnarly, very personal yarn was new and fresh? I can still feel to this day the pungent aroma of unwashed fleece, the squishy feel of raw lanolin on my fingertips, and the thunk of my homemade spindle crashing to the floor over and over again. I was reinventing history, and it was thrilling. So, there’s a strong nostalgia factor for me in reading Peggy Orenstein’s book Unraveling: What I Learned about Life While Shearing Sheep, Dyeing Wool, and Making the World’s Ugliest Sweater. When the…

Did you know that 10,000 Americans turn 65 every day, and some of them might be weavers? Welcome to the Handwoven Vintage Weaver column! MEET FAYE Faye is a 76-year-old weaver. For years, she balanced family life, including her spouse, children, and grandchildren, with work, time spent weaving, and guild activities—until COVID-19 hit. Faye’s husband died, she retired, her grandchildren were in college, and her guild disbanded. As the world recovered, Faye felt uncertain about returning to her routine, especially driving. Faye’s doctor also confirmed her hearing was not as crisp as it had been. While Faye continued to weave, her work had more errors and wasn’t as fun when she couldn’t strut her stuff for guild buddies. Loneliness was her new norm, and she missed her old life. It’s…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT 2" square, 4" square, and 2" × 4" rectangle pin looms; weaving needle. YARNS Warp and weft: Bamboo Pop (50% cotton/50% bamboo; 292 yd/3.5 oz; Universal Yarn; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #101 White, 72 yd; #112 Black, 52 yd; #120 Graphite, 6 yd; #108 Lime, 20 yd; #110 Sand, 5 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Dry beans (to add weight to the bottom); stuffing; black felt, 4" × 4"; fabric glue; washable fabric marker; straight pins (optional). Note: Deborah constructed the panda cub in the same way as the adult, using pin looms that were the same shape but half the size: 1" square, 2" square, and 1" × 2" rectangle. She wove the cub with the yarn held double for the first two warp layers and held…

STRUCTURE Twill and basketweave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 13" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1–3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 2-ply hemp yarn (2,450 yd/lb; Bluegrass Mills; The Woolery), Queen Anne Lace, 114 yd; Tulip, 213 yd; Onyx, 294 yd; Grey, 186 yd. Weft: 2-ply hemp yarn, Queen Anne Lace, 560 yd; Tulip, 38 yd; Onyx, 21 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Color-catching laundry sheet; Synthrapol (optional). WARP LENGTH 269 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 4" for take-up, 28½" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 21⅓ epi (2-3-3 per dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 21 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 12⅞". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 75½". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 11" × 71" with 1¾" fringe at each end. Hemp yarn is…

STRUCTURE Twill and plain weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 14" weaving width; 8- or 12-dent reed; 3 boat shuttles; stick shuttle (optional). YARNS Warp: Banana Yarn (1,960 yd/lb; Bellatrista), Cocoa Brown, 297 yd; Natural, 163 yd; Olive, 141 yd. Weft: Banana Yarn, Cocoa Brown, 110 yd; Natural and Olive, 89 yd each. In the Raw Handspun Banana Yarn, (1,350 yd/lb; Spinning Yarns Weaving Tales), 30 yd. Note: If this handspun yarn is not available, substitute other rustic-looking, natural-color yarns of similar weight for the accent picks. One such yarn would be Hemptique 3-ply hemp. Cocoa Brown is unavailable. The Banana Yarn comes in nine colors plus natural. Pick two colors that go well together to combine with Natural to design your own runner. WARP LENGTH 218 ends 2¾ yd long (includes…

I was so pleased to see the article on Toshiko Taira in the September/October 2023 Handwoven (“Toshiko Taira: Reviving a Cultural Tradition”). The first time I met her was in 2009. I was with a tour group, and when our tour leader told her that I was a spinner and a weaver, she graciously offered to give me a personal tour of the workshop. The highlight of that day was when she introduced me to their spinning wheels and let me try my hand at one. I was a total failure because I had no experience in spinning off the tip at that time, but we had a good laugh at my efforts. I saw her again in 2011 and was able to present her with a gift that I…

Mingei International Museum in San Diego, California, has an incredible collection of items, both artistic and everyday and those that span the two, showcasing how artisans around the world have created objects that are beautiful and useful. Part of the museum’s extensive collection includes articles woven using a myriad of materials and techniques. To highlight this part of the collection, Mingei presents its new exhibit, Over/Under: Woven Craft at Mingei. Organized by Director of Exhibitions and Chief Curator Emily G. Hanna, the show aims to put a spotlight on not just the importance of the woven objects but also, in many cases, the importance of weaving in general to the cultures presented. “Woven crafts hold a unique place in human culture, intertwining beauty and functionality seamlessly,” said Hanna. “Over/Under not…

STRUCTURE Plain weave with warp and weft floats. EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 38" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1–3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 20/2 line linen (3,000 yd/lb; Bockens), #0002 Half Bleached, 1,456 yd. 16/2 line linen (2,400 yd/lb; Bockens), #0000 Unbleached, 154 yd; #603 Navy Blue, 462 yd. Weft: 20/2 line linen, #0002 Half Bleached, 1,152 yd. 16/2 line linen, #0000 Unbleached, 65 yd; #132 Dusty Blue Gray, 195 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol. WARP LENGTH 570 ends (592 total threads) 3½ yd long (allows 8" for take-up and 42" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent reed. Note: Unbleached ends are used doubled in reed and heddles. Weft: 16 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 38". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 76". Finished…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 17" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Eco Jeans recycled yarn 12/2 (48% cotton/47% polyester/5% other; 2,925 yd/lb; Venne), #6047 Sandalwood, 806 yd; #3005 Deep Red, 33 yd. Weft: #6047 Sandalwood, 36 yd; #3005 Deep Red, 609 yd. WARP LENGTH 305 ends 2¾ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 7" for take-up, 26" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (1-2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 19 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 17". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 66". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and sewing) 15" × 58" circumference when sewn as a cowl. I think it’s coded into the DNA of weavers to want to make things for friends and loved ones. However, when the weaver loves to…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 3 shuttles (at least 1 stick shuttle). YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI), #152 Pistachio, 95 yd; #119 Hummingbird, 392 yd. Ra-Ra Raffia (palm fiber; 273 yd/100 g; Wool and the Gang), Desert Palm, 21 yd. Weft: 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb; UKI), #60 Duck, 280 yd; #152 Pistachio, 37 yd. Ra-Ra Raffia, Desert Palm, 8 yd. WARP LENGTH 225 ends 2¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 5" for take-up and 18" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 14 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 142/8". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 58". Finished size: (after wetfinishing and hemming) 12¼" × 52". Somewhere along the weaving path, we…

STRUCTURE Twill with color-and-weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Euroflax 30/2 linen (4,500 yd/lb; LoftyFiber), Marine Blue, 360 yd; Heron Gray, 230 yd; Brick, 245 yd; Natural, 583 yd. Weft: Euroflax 30/2 linen, Marine Blue, 248 yd; Heron Gray, 88 yd; Brick, 218 yd; Natural, 336 yd. WARP LENGTH 567 ends 2½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 7" for take-up, 30" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 28 epi (3-2-2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 27 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 204/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 53". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) two towels, 18½" × 241/2" each. I have always been enamored with linen. I enjoy browsing antique stores and flea markets in search…

Bellatrista, bellatrista.com (Sullivan 61). Eugene Textile Center, eugenetextilecenter.com (Fox 32, Lange-McKibben 54). Gist Yarn, gistyarn.com (Hummer 47). Habu Textiles, habutextiles.com (Crema 58). LoftyFiber, loftyfiber.com (Leach 64). Lone Star Loom Room, lonestarloomroom.com (Jablonski 44). Lunatic Fringe Yarns, lunaticfringeyarns.com (Allen 36, Crema 58, Lynde 72). Maurice Brassard et Fils, mbrassard.com (Allen 36, Horton 68). Spinning Yarns Weaving Tales, spinningyarnsweavingtales.com (Sullivan 61). Wool and the Gang, woolandthegang.com (Lange-McKibben 54). The Woolery, woolery.com (Monogue 50). Yarn Barn of Kansas, yarnbarn-ks.com (Allen 36, Bagley 40, Horton 68).…

Chunky Cotton Looking for a heavyweight cotton to bulk up your weaving game? Gist Yarn has added ¾ organic cotton in 13 fabulous colors to its regular 8/2 and 3/2 Beam line. Beam ¾ comes on 4-ounce cones, each containing 155 yards, which translates to 630 yards per pound. This new size works great for coasters and placemats and pairs wonderfully with the other weights of Beam cotton. gistyarn.com Fabric Care Make your clothing, blankets, and upholstery last longer by using a Gleener Fabric Shaver and Lint Brush. With an ergonomic design, three changeable heads to match fabric types, and a lint brush on the opposite end, tackling pills, pet hair, and lint becomes a breeze. No batteries to worry about going dead or ending up in a landfill—you have…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 35" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1–3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 16/2 cotton (6,720 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #100 Naturel, 2,896 yd; #4272 Bleu, 452 yd; #1317 Saumon, 472 yd; #415 Gris Pâle, 328 yd. Weft: Lyte Hemp Fine (100% hemp, 5,000 yd/lb; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), Bleached or Periwinkle, 1,220 yd; 16/2 bamboo (6,720 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #BB8021 Cactus, 1,420 yd; #BB5229 Viel Or, 27 yd; #BB5977 Bleu Moyen, 18 yd. WARP LENGTH 1,037 ends 4 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 11" for take-up, 35" for loom waste and sampling). Allow 54" warp length for each additional blanket. SETTS Warp: 30 epi (3/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: Hemp, 24 ppi; bamboo, 28 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 347/10". Woven length: (measured under tension…

STRUCTURE Twill and plain weave with clasped weft. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 14- or 10-dent reed; 3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Duet (55% linen/45% cotton; 2,390 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Marble, 378 yd. Beam 3/2 Organic Cotton (1,260 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Cobalt, 258 yd. Weft: Duet, Marble, 182 yd. Beam, Cobalt, 113 yd. Mallo 3/2 Cotton Slub (55% organic cotton/45% conventional cotton; 1,500 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Brick, 45 yd. WARP LENGTH 212 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 6" for take-up, 39" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 14 epi (1/dent in a 14-dent reed or 1-2-1-2-1/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 11 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 152/14". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 63". Finished size: (after wet-finishing)…

STRUCTURE Plain weave with Danish medallions. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle or 2-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 10-dent heddle or reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 6-ply hemp (850 yd/lb; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), Natural, 400 yd. Weft: FQ-1 Fique (100% fique; 170 yd/oz; Habu Textiles), #9 Brown and #22 Turquoise, 32 yd each. 6-ply hemp, Natural, 165 yd. Note: Both yarns have been discontinued. Try 6-ply hemp (100% hemp; 815 yd/lb; Hemptique) in Natural as a substitute for the Lunatic Fringe Yarns hemp. For FQ-1 Fique, jute twine will give the same rustic look and somewhat circular medallions due to its stiffness. Two-ply Lyte Hemp Bold (100% hemp; 2,600 yd/lb; Lunatic Fringe Yarns) can also be used as a substitute but will not give the round circles that fique does. OTHER SUPPLIES H-8/5 mm…

STRUCTURE Twill and pseudo–plain weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles and 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 16/2 line linen (2,700 yd/lb; Bockens; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #00 Natural, 1,351 yd. Weft: Towel body: 16/2 cotton (6,720 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #100 Natural, 828 yd. Towel 1 pattern: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #100 Natural, 175 yd. Towel 2 pattern: 8/2 cotton, #101 White, 175 yd. Hems: 20/2 pearl cotton or sewing thread in natural or beige, 27 yd. Note: For each additional towel, add 1 yd of warp. Weft yardages are generous: For the 16/2 cotton, there is enough weft yardage to weave two towels without any stripes. The 8/2 cotton yardages are based on weaving an “average”…

Twisting (or plying) the fringe Divide the number of threads for each fringe into two groups. Twist each group clockwise until it kinks. Bring both groups together and allow them to twist around each other counterclockwise (or twist in that direction). Secure the ends with an overhand knot. (Use the same method to make a plied cord by attaching one end to a stationary object.) Double (Italian) hemstitching Weave several picks of plain weave (or the basic structure of the piece), ending with the shuttle on the right side if you are righthanded, the left side if you are left-handed. Measure a length of weft four times the warp width, cut, and thread this tail into a blunt tapestry needle. Take the needle under a selected group of warp threads…