Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2023 i Handwoven

Not long ago, we answered a query from a reader about a weaving pattern that appeared in Handwoven Fall/Winter 1979. After we addressed the question, I thought, “Wow, not only has Handwoven been around for 40-plus years, and not only does it give subscribers access to all its back issues, but it also has weavers on staff who actively support weavers working on 43-year-old patterns.” I don’t think a combination like that is something you see too often, and in that moment, I was reminded of how happy I am to be part of the continuing history of Handwoven. Choosing issue themes that resonate with me is one of the fun things about being the editor, and the theme of this issue, architectural details, does just that. On my cell…

While most books move in a logical fashion from start to finish, I don’t believe weavers approach weaving books in the same way as they do a novel. We tend to jump to the sections that most interest us and skip the rest except for perhaps reviewing pictures along the way. Weaving with Strips was interesting from beginning to end. Künti’s description of her path from basket admirer to basket weaver and expert pulled me in, and I found myself reading it carefully from that point on, as I enjoyed the beautiful photography of her work as well as traditional and modern basketry by other makers. Künti starts with a history of basketry and an overview of basket types, which on the surface would seem obvious, but I found the…

STRUCTURE Plain weave and huck lace. EQUIPMENT 3-shaft loom, 6" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/4 cotton (1,680 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #3161 Jaune Or, 68 yd; #5209 Crème, 66 yd; #5981 Navy, 24 yd. Weft: 8/4 cotton, #3161 Jaune Or, 27 yd; #5209 Crème, 60 yd. WARP LENGTH 79 ends 2 yd long (allows 5" for take-up, 25" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe for first and last cocktail carpets). SETTS Warp: 13.4 epi (1 end/dent with every 8th thread doubled in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 13 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 511/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 42"; 5¼" per carpet plus interstitial fringe. Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) six cocktail carpets, each 5" × 6" including fringe.…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 26" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; Silk City), #010 Pure White, 1,320 yd; #002 Black, 185 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #002 Black, 812 yd. 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb; UKI), #07 Black, 166 yd. WARP LENGTH 602 ends 2½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 5" for take-up, 24" for loom waste, and 7" for sampling). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 252/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 27" per gamp; 54" total. Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) two gamps, 23" × 24" each. Geometric mosaic tiling is a favorite architectural decoration of mine. While many of the motifs have deeper…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Red Clay, 315 yd; Salmon, 413 yd; Straw, 210 yd; Gold, 14 yd. Luminesce (65% viscose/35% metallized polyester, 37,600 yd/lb; Silk City Fibers), #346 Chili, 14 yd. Note: Luminesce #346 Chili is no longer available. A good substitute would be thin red-orange metallic thread. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, Red Clay, 302 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES 16 Japanese 6/0 seed beads, TR6-329, TOHO, Gold Luster African Sunset; 2 or 3 wool dryer balls (optional). WARP LENGTH 272 working ends (276 ends total), 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 42" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 30 epi (3/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft:…

STRUCTURE Crackle. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Bamboo Cotton (70% bamboo/30% cotton; 3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard; Weavers Loft), #BC8022 Dark Green, 134 yd; #BC8020 Burnt Orange, 150 yd; #BC8006 Havana, 637 yd. Weft: 8/2 Bamboo Cotton, #BC8022 Dark Green, 177 yd; #BC8020 Burnt Orange, 59 yd; #BC8006 Havana, 456 yd. WARP LENGTH 283 ends 3¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up, 28" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 1111/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 79". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 10¼" × 73" plus 5¼" fringe. Several historic neighborhoods where I live were built in the early part of…

Hello Handwoven! I just finished making the Adventurer’s Sling Bag from the March/April 2022 issue. I enjoyed the project immensely, and I’m very happy with the resulting bag. I would like to humbly submit two suggestions that made the project a bit easier for me. The instructions call for using the exterior handwoven fabric to make a loop to hold the D ring on the back of the bag. I found this to be too thick to be workable. I used a small piece of my woven bag strap to hold the D ring. Secondly, the instructions call for cutting two main panel pieces from the exterior/handwoven fabric. One of these panels is completely covered by the front pocket assembly on the outside and by the lining on the inside.…

With her latest book, Tina Ignell has created an instant classic as Plain Weave showcases the versatility of simple over-under weaving. If anyone is wondering how she got 60 patterns based on plain weave, Ignell explains it best in her foreword: “We weave stripes and blocks, beat loosely and firmly, sley loosely and closely. We fold and felt, tie and dye.” The first 11 chapters of the book each focus on a different approach to plain weave: stripes and blocks, rep weave, color-and-weave, adding texture, using weft effects, and so on. Within the chapters, Ignell presents a selection of designs with at least one full-color, close-up photo of each completed cloth. The first 10 chapters also include a four-shaft draft for every design, and most (although not all) can be…

We all recycle: plastic, cans, paper. Humans have also recycled cloth for centuries, sometimes out of necessity and other times because the cloth held memories or value. Longtime readers of Handwoven will recall many recycling ideas featured in past issues. Recycling cloth in weaving is one thing, but what about paper weaving? Many years ago, I took a workshop on shifu, a Japanese paper-weaving technique. In Japan, they use mulberry paper cut into ¼-inch strips and spun into a fine yarn for weaving clothing. In the workshop, we not only got to spin mulberry paper, but we also explored other paper-spinning options, such as newspaper (too messy) and tissue paper. The paper of old sewing patterns worked best, but ordinary wrapping tissue also worked well. We found that paper with…

STRUCTURE Atwater-Bronson lace. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 23" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 14/2 linen (2,450 yd/lb; Euroflax; Lofty Fiber), Navy and Marine Blue, 816 yd each. Weft: 14/2 linen, Navy and Marine Blue, 591 yd each. OTHER SUPPLIES Fray Check. WARP LENGTH 408 ends 4 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up and 39" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (1-2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 18 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 229/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) about 95". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 20" × 92" plus 4" fringe on each end. On a recent trip with my three sisters, I mentioned that I thought the color of the walls in our rental was an…

STRUCTURE Basketweave and twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom (optional 10-shaft loom for woven selvedges), 40" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI), #19 Medium Grey, 1,206 yd; #148 Caribbean, 1,620 yd; #94 Tyrol, 432 yd; #141 Silver, 540 yd; #46 Champagne and #113 Yellow, 243 yd each. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #116 Black, 3,685 yd; #19 Medium Grey, 1,048 yd; #48 Dark Turquoise, 873 yd. Note: #94 Tyrol is discontinued. Try #2 Light Turquoise or #36 Poplin as a substitute. WARP LENGTH 952 ends 4½ yd long (includes doubled woven selvedges with 10 shafts or quadrupled floating selvedges each side with 8 shafts; allows 12" for take-up, 33" for loom waste). Note: To weave additional blankets, add 65" to the warp length…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave variation. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 8" weaving width; two 10-dent heddles; 2 pick-up sticks; smooth, strong yarn for making string heddles, 5 yd; painter’s tape; heddle rod; 2 shuttles. Or 4-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Phoenix DK Prints (100% cotton; 251 yd/100 g; Ella Rae), #29 Pecan Pie, 107 yd for rigid-heddle (120 yd for 4-shaft). Ultra Pima (100% cotton; 220 yd/100 g; Cascade), #3719 Buff, 107 yd for rigid-heddle (120 yd for 4-shaft). Weft: Phoenix DK Prints, #29 Pecan Pie, 72 yd. Ultra Pima, #3719 Buff, 72 yd. WARP LENGTH Rigid-heddle: 80 ends 96" long (allows 6" for take-up, 20" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). 4-shaft loom: 80 ends 3 yd long (allows 6" for take-up, 32" for loom…

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STRUCTURE Block weave with supplemental weft. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 26" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 5 shuttles and bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/4 cotton (1,680 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard; Weaver House), #4275 Charcoal, 304 yd; #1451 Ivoire, 300 yd. Weft: 8/4 cotton, #100 Naturel, 121 yd. Linen slub (3,700 yd/lb; Weaver House), Natural, 202 yd. WARP LENGTH 302 ends 2 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 3" for take-up, 43" for loom waste and sampling; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 12 epi (1/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 10 ppi (1 pick includes both wefts). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 252/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 26". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 24½" × 23½" with ¾" fringe. Dom Hans van der Laan (1904–91) was an acclaimed architect, theorist, and…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Georgia Yarn Company), Natural, 1,526 yd. Weft: 18/3 linen (2,961 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Mint, Arctic, Peacock, Lavender, and Sea Glass, 259 yd each. WARP LENGTH 339 ends 4½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 12" for take-up, 37" for loom waste and sampling). Note: To weave additional towels, add 25" to the warp length per towel. SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 26 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 143/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 113", or about 22½" per towel. Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) five towels, about 13" × 18" each. Just before Christmas, my husband and I picked up a four-shaft,…

STRUCTURE Crêpe and plain weave with color-and-weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 39" weaving width; 8-dent or 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 5 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Egyptian cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Bockens; Lone Star Loom Room), #000 Unbleached, 2,695 yd; #731 Baby Blue, 168 yd; #1023 Peach and #1440 Willow Green, 126 yd each; #468 Baby Pink and #101 Yellow, 84 yd each. Weft: 8/2 Egyptian cotton, #000 Unbleached, 2,145 yd; #731 Baby Blue, 115 yd; #1023 Peach and #1440 Willow Green, 86 yd each; #468 Baby Pink and #101 Yellow, 58 yd each. WARP LENGTH 938 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up and 30" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (3/dent in an 8-dent reed or 2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Ruby, 819 yd; Black, 109 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, Natural, 61 yd; Black, 444 yd. WARP LENGTH 265 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 9" for take-up, 32" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 17 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 112/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 85". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 10" × 81" plus 7" fringe. I live in a small town with a vibrant downtown shopping area. Treelined streets give way to historic brick buildings that hold boutiques, antique stores, and cute restaurants. It’s always fun to spend…

Most of us think of architecture as the design of complex buildings or other structures built by humans. While artistic inspiration can be found in these objects, architectural forms in the natural world also provide a rich source of ideas. In fact, architects often try to emulate nature’s perfect synthesis of form and function. From the grand architecture of a mountain land-scape to the Fibonacci series found in the intricate structure of a seashell, texture and shape can inform our weaving. One of the most enjoyable parts of weaving is finding inspiration in unusual places. I recently visited my local botanical garden, Oklahoma City’s Myriad Botanical Gardens, to view the titan arum, a plant more commonly known as the corpse flower because of the strong odor it emits, which many…