Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2023 i Handwoven

Since 1876 Arizona FIBER CREEK PrescoXtt AZ 86305 (928) 717-1774 fibercreek@hotmail.com California CUSTOM HANDWEAVERS Mountain View Tel: (650) 967-0831 Fax: (650) 967-1005 www.customhandweavers.com webemit@sbcglobal.net CUSTOM HANDWEAVING Redondo Beach Tel: (310) 316-0910 or: (866) 656-1060 www.nancyscustomhandweaving.com customhandweavin@aol.com JULIAN WEAVING WORKS Julian (760) 765-2432 info@weaverslink.com SAN FRANCISCO FIBERS CO. Oakland (510) 893-2015 www.sanfranciscofiber.com lou@sffiber.com Colorado BOUNTIFUL Livermore (877) 586-9332 info@bountifulspinweave.com www.bountifulspinweave.com FIRESIDE COUNTRY STORE Grand Junction 970-858-9288 lynnjenks9@gmail.com Florida SERENDIPITY FARM & STUDIO Leesburg (757) 651-2632 serendipityfarmstudio@gmail.com Illinois FINE LINE CREATIVE ARTS CENTER St. Charles (630) 584-9443 www.fineline.org info@fineline.org Indiana THE WEAVERS LOFT Guilford (812) 576-3904 weaving@nalu.net www.weaversloft.com Kansas THE YARN BARN Lawrence (800) 468-0035 yarnbarn@sunflower.com Kentucky THE WOOLERY Frankfort tel: (502) 352-9800 fax (502) 352-9802 http://www.woolery.com info@woolery.com Louisiana WEAVIN' PLACE Folsom (985) 796-8048 www.weavinplace.com cheryl@weavinplace.com Maine HALCYON YARN Bath (207) 442-7909…

Praise for September/October I did so enjoy the recent issue of Handwoven (September/October 2022) containing lots of neat projects and items to make with our handwoven cloth. I particularly enjoyed the article by Jane Sheetz and her story behind the MacKay tartan; I was so happy she was able to finish her project. I thought I might offer my suggestion for her leftover tartan cloth. My sons and grandsons, of which there are seven who live across Canada and in Scotland, were recipients of cushions for Christmas last year, covered with my own handwoven MacKay tartan—a lasting gift. Jane might want to consider such a project for her 4 yards of extra tartan. —Ellie Adams, via email More Sewing, Please! I have been weaving about 10 years and have tried…

When it comes to writing about sustainable, eco-conscious weaving, you can’t get much better than Maria Sigma. She is a weaver who walks the walk, talks the talk, and weaves the weft, as it were. In her professional life, Sigma focuses on weaving zero-waste textiles and teaching workshops on the same, and her book aims to give readers a similar education. Weaving is essentially a book in three parts and about three specific loom types: frame looms, circular looms, and handheld rigid heddles for bandweaving. Sigma wrote this book with beginning weavers in mind, starting with basic weaving terms and tools and simple tapestry-weaving techniques. Photos are abundant as each step is clearly documented. Sigma wants potential weavers to get their feet wet and go elsewhere for more advanced techniques…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 2/8 cottolin (60% organic cotton/40% linen; 3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #C5214 Magenta and #C5153 Mauve, 700 yd each. Weft: Mohair Silk Sock (50% superwash merino/15% mohair/15% silk/20% nylon; 437 yd/3.5 oz; SweetGeorgia Yarns), SGY-9200-STR Strawberry Tea, 604 yd (2 skeins). OTHER SUPPLIES Cardstock or cardboard cut into 1" strips (optional); norinse detergent. WARP LENGTH 140 doubled ends (280 threads total) 5 yd long (allows 4" for takeup, 36" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 12 epi (1/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 12 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 118⁄12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 70" per scarf plus 12" interstitial fringe. Finished size: (after wet-finishing) two scarves, 10." ×…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 32" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Wrap: Superfine Merino (100% merino wool; 5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun), Williamsburg Blue, 2,191 yd. Weft: Superfine Merino, Emerald, 1,543 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES 312 6/0 glass beads in Clear AB or color of your choice, optional. WARP LENGTH 626 ends 3. yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up, 36" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Wrap: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 314⁄10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 80". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 25" × 68" plus 2." fringe. In 2014, I discovered the group Ravelry Worldwide Shawl Exchange. Intrigued, I took a closer look, and soon I was hooked. I have…

STRUCTURE Huck lace. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Wrap: Mora 20/2 (100% wool; 1,039 yd/3.5 oz skein; Borgs Vavgarner), #2070 light brown, 420 yd; #2021 teal, 300 yd; #2057 dark brown, 150 yd. Weft: Mora 20/2, #2070 light brown, 665 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Eucalan or similar no-rinse wool wash. WARP LENGTH 290 ends 3 yd long (allows 7" for take-up, 26" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Wrap: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 145⁄10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 75". Finished size: (after wetfinishing) 13." × 73" plus 4" fringe on each end. Sometimes the world can take away our peace and place us in a position of uncertainty.…

Handwoven unlimited access includes » 75+ streaming weaving videos & courses » New weaving courses as they are released » Exclusive projects and articles »220 WIFs with more added each issue »Print + Digital issues And… new Handwoven Library All Access includes 75+ weaving eBooks that explore weave structures, expert techniques, and irresistible projects. Come in and explore all things weaving for multi-shaft and other types of looms. Subscribe today at handwovenmagazine.com/subscribe…

I’d like to do something a bit different in this space and use it for a public service announcement: Do not neglect your monthly breast self-checks and yearly mammograms. I know they are awkward, even uncomfortable, but they are important. About 13 percent of women in the United States today will get breast cancer, and the sooner it’s found and treated, the better. Being female and over the age of 45 are the two biggest risk factors for breast cancer. It’s just a wild guess, but I would say the bulk of Handwoven’s readership fits in that demographic, and if you don’t exactly fit that description, I’m fairly certain you know and love someone who does. In March 2021, my annual mammogram found an abnormality, a change that might have…

Tassel Makers Add a bit of extra fluff—and fun—to your next project with tassel-making tools from Katrinkles. The tassel makers come in six sizes, and all are shaped like fiber animals. The three smaller sizes (bunny, alpaca, and sheep) range in size from 1 to 3 inches and come as a set, while the larger tassel makers (goat, musk ox, and camel) are sold separately. The tools are locally sourced and made in Rhode Island. katrinkles.com Wool Dye-Color Packs Finding just the right color of commercially dyed yarn can sometimes be difficult. So why not create your own with Wool Tincture Dyes from Abundant Earth Fiber instead? Each color pack includes two dye tea bags and two citric acid packets. The beauty of this method is that everything is premeasured.…

Two years ago, Fibershed, a nonprofit organization that supports the development of regional, sustainable, and regenerative textile systems, announced it was developing a climate-beneficial textile system in my region of Southern California. I almost immediately sent an excited email to express my interest in participating in our chapter’s first “Slow and Local: A Clothing Project.” Rebecca Burgess launched Fibershed about a decade ago in Northern California. It’s based on the premise that when farms and ranches are connected to regional fiber processors, clothing manufacturers, and end users, communities and ecosystems are strengthened. Today it has over 50 affiliates in several countries. The organization creates regional sourcebooks and producer lists and holds educational events to build connections. (See Resources.) Several members from our local weaving guild expressed interest in the challenge…

STRUCTURE Doublewidth. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 39" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 3 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Nature Spun Sport (100% wool; 1,656 yd/lb; Brown Sheep Company), N36 China Blue, 910 yd; N03 Grey Heather, 1,449 yd; N85 Peruvian Pink, 315 yd. Weft: Nature Spun Sport, N36 China Blue, 686 yd; N03 Grey Heather, 1,099 yd; N85 Peruvian Pink, 247 yd. Note: Several extra yards to accommodate the many weft color changes are included in the weft yardages. For a special tonal effect, Malynda purchased Peruvian Pink skeins as seconds from an inconsistent dye lot. First-quality yarns may not have this color variation. OTHER SUPPLIES 5 yd 8/4 cotton carpet warp or other strong, smooth yarn and 5 yd fishing line (used to maintain the doublewidth fold’s position on the loom). WARP LENGTH…

STRUCTURE Sashiko-ori (plain weave with supplemental warp and weft). EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 49" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Bartlettyarns Maine Wool, worsted weight (100% wool; 800 yd/lb; 200 yd/4 oz; Halcyon Yarn), #2160 Peacock, 1,176 yd. DROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca; 182 yd/50 g; Garnstudio), #501 Light Grey, 246 yd. Weft: Bartlettyarns Maine Wool, worsted weight, #2160 Peacock, 785 yd. DROPS Alpaca, #501 Light Grey, 168 yd. Crochet edges: DROPS Alpaca, #501 Light Grey, about 25 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Crochet hook, size G-6 (4 mm). WARP LENGTH Ground warp: 392 ends 3 yd long (allows 7" for takeup, 33" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). Supplemental warp: 82 ends 3 yd long. SETTS Warp: 8 epi (1/dent in an 8-dent reed) for ground warp. Weft: 8 ppi…

STRUCTURE Twill and plain weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 23" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins. YARNS Wrap: Dream Colour (100% wool; 437 yd/3.5 oz; Hobbii), #21 Provence, 840 yd. ⅜ Heather (100% wool; 166 yd/50 g; Jagger Spun), Periwinkle, 330 yd. Shetland (100% wool; 1,800 yd/lb; Harrisville), Cornflower, 150 yd; Azure, 320 yd; Magenta, 120 yd. Weft: Shetland, Azure, 298 yd; Midnight Blue, 670 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES New Look vest pattern #6397, view D. Note: This pattern has been discontinued. Burda Style 05/20 Cardigan 128 is a similar pattern when made without the tie band. WARP LENGTH 352 ends 5 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up, 27" for loom waste). SETTS Wrap: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 10 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in…

STRUCTURE Monk’s belt. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Wrap: 22/2 Organic Cottolin (70% cotton/30% linen; 700 yd/100 g; 3,180 yd/lb; Venne), #7000 Natural, 842 yd. Weft: 22/2 Organic Cottolin, #7000 Natural, 630 yd. Bio Balance (55% wool/45% cotton; 246 yd/50 g; BC Garn), #06 Moss, 642 yd. WARP LENGTH 259 ends 3. yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 26" for loom waste). SETTS Wrap: 12. epi (1-1-1-2 in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi (12 ppi tabby, 12 ppi wool blend). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 208⁄10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 83". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 11" × 71". I like texture in fabrics, and differential shrinkage is an easy way to get it. To obtain differential…

MARCH/APRIL 2023 Architectural Details Many weavers see pattern everywhere. Without trying, they notice brickwork, windows in skyscrapers, shadows of columns, and cornice details. This issue will include weaving that mimics the physical structures around us. MAY/JUNE 2023 Color-and-Weave Let’s have some fun with color-and-weave! For this issue, we will focus on the many types of color-and-weave fabrics, whether they are two-block log cabin, multiple-block shadow weave, or classic repeating patterns such as houndstooth twill. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2023 The “Escences” of Weaving Opalescence, iridescence, and luminescence can make a fabric sing with color and light. We will focus on techniques for creating one or more of these and similar effects, whether with structure, color placement, yarn choice, or a combination of all three.…

Like many weavers, I have a personal weaving library, and within it, I group books into four main categories: techniques, projects, historical, and inspirational. The latest book from Complex Weavers falls firmly in the last group. In Eight Shafts: Beyond the Beginning, you’ll find a collection of essays and works by 72 weavers/designers describing their approaches to developing designs. Two objectives gave rise to this book: the desire to observe Complex Weavers’ 40th anniversary and the wish to honor Wanda J. Shelp (1944–2015), coauthor of Eight Shafts: A Place to Begin and a much-admired member of Complex Weavers. Part I, “Designing on 8 Shafts,” comprises almost half of the book. Myriad design basics fill this section, including weaving straight lines, curves, stripes, and figures, all accompanied by multiple examples of…

So popular are the motifs that certain sarees and weaves are considered incomplete without them. The most wonderous examples are seen in Kanjeevaram (woven in Kanjeevaram, Tamil Nadhu), Paithani (woven in Paithan, Maharashtra), Banarasi (woven in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh), and, of course, the pictorial Baluchari (woven in Baluchar, West Bengal). Each of the saree styles has its own weaving nuances, individuality, and manner of using the ambi motif. The depiction of the mango in each of the sarees is different, stylized, and unique to its particular form of weaving. The question is why mango when there are umpteen fruits, vegetables, and flowers for inspiration? In India, mangoes are a mania—it’s the national fruit and much beloved. Connoisseurs wait patiently for wild and heritage mangoes from different regions to make their…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 8" weaving width; two 12.5-dent heddles; 2 pick-up sticks; strong, smooth yarn to be used for making string heddles, 12 yd; painter's tape; heddle rod; 2 shuttles. Note: Don’t have 12.5-dent heddles? This scarf could also be woven using 12-dent heddles with a width in the heddle of 8 4⁄12". YARNS Warp: Perth (80% superwash wool/20% nylon; 437 yd/3.5 oz; Queensland Collection), #107 Tasmanian Bay, 134 yd. Heritage (75% superwash wool/25% nylon; 437 yd/3.5 oz; Cascade Yarns), #5706 Grape Juice, 134 yd. Weft: Perth, #107 Tasmanian Bay, 108 yd. Heritage, #5605 Plum, 108 yd. WARP LENGTH 100 ends 96" long (allows 7" for take-up, 19" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 12.5 epi. Weft: 12 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the heddle: 8".…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle or 2-shaft loom, 27" weaving width; 10-dent heddle or reed; 4 shuttles. Note: The wrap can be woven on a multi-shaft loom threaded and treadled for plain weave. Add additional yardage to the warp for loom waste if weaving on a 2-shaft or multi-shaft loom. YARNS Wrap: 3/10 Alpaca (1,700 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Peacock, 660 yd; Array (100% wool; 3,360 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Marigold-2, 55 yd; Sapphire-4 and Eggplant-3, 44 yd each. Weft: 3/10 Alpaca, Peacock, 528 yd; Array, Marigold-2, 36 yd; Sapphire-4 and Eggplant-3, 33 yd each. WARP LENGTH 266 working ends (292 threads total) 99" (23⁄4 yd) long (allows 3" for take-up, 26" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Wrap: 10 epi. Weft: 10 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the heddle or…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 15-dent reed, 3 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Superfine Merino (100% merino wool; 5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun), Pewter, 1,045 yd. Zephyr 2/18 lace (50% tussah silk/50% merino wool; 5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun), Copper, 252 yd; Emerald, 336 yd. Findley (50% mulberry silk/50% merino wool; 798 yd/100 g; Juniper Moon Farm), #26 Mulberry, 252 yd. Mora 20/2 (100% wool; 1,035 yd/3.5 oz skein; Borgs Vavgarner), #2081 dark gray, 168 yd. Weft: Superfine Merino, Pewter, 688 yd. Zephyr 2/18 lace, Copper, 773 yd. Mora 20/2, dark gray, 133 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Mild detergent. WARP LENGTH 586 ends 3. yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows for 8" take-up, 35" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 30 epi (2/dent in a 15-dent reed).…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Wrap: Amble (70% wool/20% alpaca/10% nylon; 355 yd/100 g; The Fibre Co.), #62 Castlerigg, 300 yd. Weft: Amble, #190 Chalk Cliffs, 235 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Thick paper 10" wide, several sheets to separate fabric layers on the loom. WARP LENGTH 98 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 2" for take-up, 26" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Wrap: 12 epi. Weft: 12 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 82⁄12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 80". Finished size: (after wetfinishing) 7." × 70" plus 5" fringe. I have a huge love of wool and wool blends, especially superwash wools. Having two kids means machine-washable cloth is an absolute must! However, superwash…

Twisting (or plying) the fringe Divide the number of threads for each fringe into two groups. Twist each group clockwise until it kinks. Bring both groups together and allow them to twist around each other counterclockwise (or twist in that direction). Secure the ends with an overhand knot. (Use the same method to make a plied cord by attaching one end to a stationary object.) Double (Italian) hemstitching Weave several picks of plain weave (or the basic structure of the piece), ending with the shuttle on the right side if you are righthanded, the left side if you are left-handed. Measure a length of weft four times the warp width, cut, and thread this tail into a blunt tapestry needle. Take the needle under a selected group of warp threads…