Innholdsfortegnelse for November/December 2022 i Handwoven

Recently, I was at the mall with my sister looking for kitchen gifts for the family. At the first store, we saw some cute spatulas that seemed unique, so we bought a few. At the next kitchen store, we saw basically the same spatulas. And then, guess what? The third store was carrying almost identical spatulas. Our initial purchase now seemed silly and not at all as fun as we had originally believed. We didn’t return the spatulas, but on the way home, I told my sister that I thought the monotony in merchandise was one of the reasons I love handwovens and get so much satisfaction from weaving one-of-a-kind items that you won’t find at a mall. Occasionally, a nonweaver will tell me she bought a set of six…

STRUCTURE Doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles (including an end-feed shuttle if available). YARNS Warp: 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb; Tubular Spectrum; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), Bleached White and Black, 945 yd each. Weft: 20/2 pearl cotton, Black, 1,617 yd; Linen Crepe (650 yd/1 oz; Gevolve Yarns; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), Natural, S-twist, 528 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Temple (optional). WARP LENGTH 540 ends 3½ yd long (allows 2" for take-up, 14" for sampling, and 36" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 36 epi (3/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 64 ppi (32 ppi per layer). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 74". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and plying fringe) 5"–7" (collapsed) × 69" plus 4½" fringe.…

STRUCTURE Jin (a.k.a. turned taqueté). EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-or 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Kiku 20/2 silk (100% bombyx silk; 5,000 yd/lb; Treenway Silks), #57 Raven Black, #314 Leap Frog, and #418.D Magenta, 788 yd each. Weft for tubular doubleweave hems: Kiku 20/2 silk, #18 Dragonfly, 127 yd. Weft for body of scarves: Gekkō 60/2x2 silk (100% bombyx silk; 7,500 yd/lb; Treenway Silks), #18 Dragonfly, 1,546 yd. WARP LENGTH 411 ends 5¾ yd long (allows 16" for take-up, 37" for loom waste and sampling). SETTS Warp: 40 epi (4/dent in a 10-dent reed or 3-3-4/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 34 ppi (body of scarf); 40 ppi (doubleweave hems). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 101/3". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 77"…

STRUCTURE Crackle and crackle variation. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 10-dent and 12-dent reeds; 3 shuttles; 3–5 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI), #10 Gold, 612 yd; #01 White, 492 yd. 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #1405 Autumn Blonde, 672 yd.  Pattern weft: 5/2 pearl cotton (UKI), #13 Sapphire, #67 Light Orange, #12 Red, #40 Light Yellow, and #148 Caribbean, 324 yd each. Ground weft: 5/2 pearl cotton (Valley Yarns), #1405 Autumn Blonde, 260 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES S-hooks for weighting the floating selvedges. WARP LENGTH 296 ends 6 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 17" for take-up and 28" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: placemats, 15 epi (1-2 in a 10-dent reed); napkins, 18 epi (1-2 in a 12-dent reed). Weft: placemats, 14…

STRUCTURE Turned Atwater-Bronson. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 23" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 22/2 cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 3,250 yd/lb; Bockens; Lone Star Loom Room), #2003 light gray and #2026 purple, 428 yd each; #2067 periwinkle and #2055 iris, 405 yd each. Weft: 22/2 cottolin, #2026 purple, 698 yd; #2067 periwinkle, 416 yd; #2003 light gray and #2055 iris, 125 yd each. Note: If you would like to weave more than three towels, add a yard of warp for each additional towel. Each towel uses 445 yd of weft. WARP LENGTH 444 ends 3¾ yd long (allows 12" for take-up and 30" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 21 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 222/10". Woven length: 93"…

Praise for Best Practices I’m a novice weaver with a thoughtful and helpful support group of weavers who answer my endless questions. But sometimes I don’t want to distract them from their busy lives and weaving projects, and I have now found the Best Practices articles so very helpful. I had been thinking of canceling my subscription to Handwoven because I found the projects just too advanced or too hard to understand, but in the last few issues, the Best Practices articles have answered many questions for a novice weaver like me. The short techniques articles on the last few pages of the magazine each issue are also reminders of how to do the things that mean success for my samples and projects. Thank you for keeping me weaving! —Theresa…

Remember the kid’s song “Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes”? Many of us have days when versions of that tune play in our minds as those little twinges remind us that our changing bodies could use a little help. An example of how weaving can impact our physical health is the story of our weaving friend Paola. As a child, Paola learned to weave on a backstrap loom at the feet of her grandmother. Later in her life, when pregnant, she wanted to make baby blankets, so she learned to weave sitting at a floor loom. During the pandemic shutdown, with more time spent weaving, physical discomfort gradually began to invade and interrupt Paola’s weaving. Although a physician recommended giving her stiff and sore shoulders a break from her craft, Paola…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT 2-or 4-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #5067 Periwinkle, 552 yd; #4272 Bleu, 72 yd; #271 Gris Foncé, 60 yd; #1510 Turquoise and #5506 Emeraude, 48 yd each; #963 Royal and #1831 Vert Pâle, 36 yd each; #4616 Peacock and #5206 Aqua Marine, 24 yd each. Weft: 8/2 cotton, #963 Royal, 643 yd. WARP LENGTH 292 working ends (300 threads total) 3 yd long (allows 8" for takeup, 20" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 16–18 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 146/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 80". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and sewing) 12½" × 67" circumference. I’ve always loved the colorful weather…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Bambu 12 (100% bamboo; 6,300 yd/lb; Silk City Fibers), #557 Emperor Blue, 657 yd; #051 Wine 210 yd; #666 Green Tea, 24 yd. Weft: Bambu 12, #360 Onyx, 869 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Delica-style beads (optional fringe embellishment). WARP LENGTH 297 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 5" for take-up and 24" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 30 epi (2/dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 36 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 79". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 8½" × 76" plus 3½" fringe. Putting on a longer warp than needed for a project has been a consistent theme from weaving instructors I…

STRUCTURE Crackle. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 10/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 4,200 yd/lb; Teresa Ruch Designs), hand-dyed (or Natural if you are dyeing your own warp), 1,995 yd. Weft: 10/2 Tencel, Natural, 800 yd. 20/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 8,400 yd/lb), Natural, 800 yd. Note: If 10/2 and 20/2 Tencel are unavailable, substitute 8/2 Tencel for the 10/2 Tencel and 30/2 silk or 20/2 pearl cotton for the 20/2 Tencel. OTHER SUPPLIES Fiber-reactive dyes and dyeing equipment (if hand-dyeing the warp yourself; see Resources). WARP LENTH 285 ends 7 yd long (includes 2 floating selvedges; allows 14" for take-up, 84" for sampling and loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 28 epi (3-2-2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Note: If substituting 8/2 Tencel, use…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 4 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI), #00 White, 405 yd; #48 Dark Turquoise, 360 yd; #75 Cobalt Blue and #141 Silver, 380 yd each. Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton, #00 White, #48 Dark Turquoise, #75 Cobalt Blue, and #141 Silver, 285 yd each. WARP LENGTH 610 ends 2½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 42" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 32 epi (4/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 48–64 ppi (16–32 ppi in top layer, 32 ppi in bottom layer). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 192/8". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) about 40". Finished size: 16" × 27" plus ¾" hems. I’ve loved doubleweave since I first learned about it.…

Archie Brennan: Tapestry as Modern Art  Archie Brennan as told to Brenda Osborn Archie Brennan (1931–2019) was a beloved tapestry artist, educator, and weaving advocate. As he grew older, his students encouraged him to compile writings about his life, work, and travels. Together with Brenda Osborn, Brennan combined his narrative with essays by other artisans and hundreds of photographs of his work. The result is Archie Brennan: Tapestry as Modern Art. Brennan’s tapestries are detailed, abstract—often a bit cheeky—but never boring. They range from woven replicas of postcards to abstract human forms to painstaking re-creations of historical masterpieces. He infused his works with social commentary, global inspiration, and a clear love for the craft. In his weaving, Brennan took inspiration from mundane details that are often overlooked, focusing on the ripples…

STRUCTURE Summer and winter. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: River Washed (78% cotton/22% acrylic; 142 yd/50 g; Scheepjes), #955 Po (green), 361 yd; #962 Narmada (yellow green), 364 yd. Weft: River Washed, #961 Mersey (orange) and #956 Avon (red), 324 yd each. For hemstitching: #955 Po, 12 yd; #962 Narmada, 6 yd. WARP LENGTH 207 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up and 22" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 10 epi. Weft: 10–11 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width on the loom: 207/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 96". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 17½" × 80" plus 4¼" fringe. For the Yarn Lab in Handwoven May/June 2022, I experimented with River Washed yarn by Scheepjes.…

STRUCTURE Twill and mock leno. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Ruby, 75 yd; Whipple Blue and Greyed Teal, 144 yd each; Navy, 219 yd; Blueberry, 324 yd. 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb, Camilla Valley Farm), #107 Melon, 324 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, Ruby, 5 yd; Iris, 553 yd. WARP LENTH 410 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 6" for take up, 27" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 30 epi (2/dent for 8/2 Tencel; 4/dent for 8/2 Tencel and 20/2 pearl cotton in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 102/15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 75". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 9¼"…

STRUCTURE Summer and winter. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 17" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Bockens), #132 blue gray, 576 yd; #477 maroon, 648 yd. 22/2 cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 2,925 yd/lb; Bockens), #2002 unbleached, 112 yd (used doubled). Weft: 22/2 cottolin, #2002 unbleached, 355 yd. 5/2 cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI), #107 Melon, 520 yd (used doubled). WARP LENGTH 320 working ends (334 threads total) 4 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 9" for take-up, 45" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 14 ppi (runner body); 16 ppi (plain-weave hems). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 161/10". Woven length: 90" (45" per runner). Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) two runners, 14½" × 32" each. Summer and winter woven…

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