Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2022 i Handwoven

Since 1876 Arizona FIBER CREEK PrescoXtt AZ 86305 (928) 717-1774 fibercreek@hotmail.com California CUSTOM HANDWEAVERS Mountain View Tel: (650) 967-0831 Fax: (650) 967-1005 www.customhandweavers.com webemit@sbcglobal.net CUSTOM HANDWEAVING Redondo Beach Tel: (310) 316-0910 or: (866) 656-1060 www.nancyscustomhandweaving.com customhandweavin@aol.com JULIAN WEAVING WORKS Julian (760) 765-2432 info@weaverslink.com SAN FRANCISCO FIBERS CO. Oakland (510) 893-2015 www.sanfranciscofiber.com lou@sffiber.com Colorado BOUNTIFUL Livermore (877) 586-9332 info@bountifulspinweave.com www.bountifulspinweave.com Florida SERENDIPITY FARM & STUDIO Leesburg (757) 651-2632 serendipityfarmstudio@gmail.com Illinois FINE LINE CREATIVE ARTS CENTER St. Charles (630) 584-9443 www.fineline.org info@fineline.org Indiana THE WEAVERS LOFT Guilford (812) 576-3904 weaving@nalu.net www.weaversloft.com Kansas THE YARN BARN Lawrence (800) 468-0035 yarnbarn@sunflower.com Kentucky THE WOOLERY Frankfort tel: (502) 352-9800 fax (502) 352-9802 http://www.woolery.com info@woolery.com Louisiana WEAVIN' PLACE Folsom (985) 796-8048 www.weavinplace.com cheryl@weavinplace.com Maine HALCYON YARN Bath (207) 442-7909 (800) 341-0282 www.halcyonyarn.com PORTLAND FIBER GALLERY &…

FOR THE LOVE OF WEAVING Many years ago, I had an enlightening conversation with Rick Hart of Macomber Looms. Macomber was one of the first to make computer-assisted looms, and Rick told me that to their great surprise, their clients were not young techy types so much as older women who could no longer get down on the floor to change tie-ups. Having a computer-assisted tie-up system for their treadles, that they could use standing up, extended their weaving lives by 10 years. This morning, as I slowly climbed up from the floor after changing my tie-up, I thought of that conversation again, as I have many times over the years. Like many people, as I age, I get a little creakier and a little more limited in what I…

This book isn’t what I expected; it’s better. I assumed it would be a coffee-table book of beautiful photos of tapestries, and to be sure, it could function as that. Within the pages are photos of more than three hundred tapestries of various types. However, it is also a thoughtful study of tapestries organized around a classification system of the author’s own design, which in itself is interesting. You can open any one of the nine chapters, read its introduction, and then lose yourself in the images and descriptions within the chapter and its subchapters. The Art Is the Cloth is built around Sidore’s viewpoint that some “tapestries reflect back on what they are: pieces of cloth.” The chapters run the gamut from the first chapter, “The Elements of Weaving”…

STRUCTURE Plain weave with supplemental warp and weft. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom with 6 or 8 treadles (with a 6-treadle loom, the weaver will use a skeleton tie-up), 10" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Maine Line 2/20 wool (5,600 yd/lb; Jagger Spun), Iris, 258 yd. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; WEBS), Amethyst, 258 yd. Regal Silk 100 Series (100% silk; 163 yd/50 g; Artyarns; Fabulous Yarn), #101 Sunset, 75 yd. Fine #8 Braid metallic embroidery thread (65% polyester/35% rayon; Kreinik), #026 Amethyst, 48 yd. Weft: Maine Line 2/20 wool, Iris, 317 yd. Regal Silk, #101 Sunset, 15 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Orvus Paste. WARP LENGTH 213 ends 3 yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 22" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe).…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT 2-shaft loom, 24" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 7 or more bobbins. YARNS Warp: 10/2 unmercerized cotton (4,200 yd/lb; Georgia Yarn Company), #32 Cherry Red, 352 yd; #36 Hyacinth Violet, 550 yd; #51 Persimmon, 688 yd; #34 Peach, 275 yd; #58 Daffodil, 138 yd; #64 Hemp, 413 yd. Hems: 10/2 unmercerized cotton, Cherry Red, 294 yd. WARP LENGTH 423 working ends (439 threads total) 5. yd long (allows 15" for take-up, 35" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (2-1/dent in a 12-dent reed, except for narrow Cherry Red stripes that are sleyed 3/dent). Weft: body, 12 ppi; hems, 20 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 238⁄12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 148". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) four towels, 21"…

STRUCTURE Color-and-weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #5120 Mauve Pale and #112 Slate, 800 yd each; #3161 Jaune Or, 250 yd. Weft: 8/2 cotton, #5120 Mauve Pale and #112 Slate, 780 yd each; #3161 Jaune Or, 51 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Fray Check (optional). 370 ends 5 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 12" for take-up, 34" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (2-1/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 19 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 207⁄12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 134". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) four towels, about 17" × 28" each. A stash-based project should be easy, I thought. I have a deep stash—lots of yarn…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4- or 8-shaft loom, 27" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins; inkle loom and band shuttle for optional hanging tabs. YARNS Towels: Warp: 22/2 cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 3,274 yd/lb; Bockens), #2000 Ivory, 1,024 yd; assorted colors, 864 yd total. Weft: 22/2 cottolin, #2000 Ivory, 1,425 yd; optional color stripes, 128 yd per towel. 16/2 cotton (6,429 yd/lb; Bockens), #0003 Bleached, 40 yd for hems. Hanging tabs: Warp: 22/2 cottolin, #2000 Ivory, 27 yd, and four other assorted colors, 4 yd each. Weft: 22/2 cottolin, #2000 Ivory, 6 yd. WARP LENGTH Towels: 472 ends 4 yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows 11" for take-up, 34" for loom waste). Optional inkle band: 37 ends 1 yd long. SETTS Towels: Warp: 18 epi (1-2/dent in a…

THE YARN Silk Linen from Sanjo Silk (7,440 yd/lb; 65% silk/35% linen), 24 colorways. The dyers at the Silk Weaving Studio use an acid dye for the Silk Linen. This particular dye strikes the silk with a consistent hue but gives the linen just a hint of the color, resulting in a heathered look overall. Though I think of this as a “shaggychic” member of yarn royalty, Silk Linen has all the elegant glossiness of silk and the interesting crispness of linen once it’s washed and ironed. That’s not all—it also has occasional slubs of linen and an overall slightly uneven spin to give the yarn character. These characteristics can also sometimes cause a sticky shed, but I found that high tension helped my sheds open up cleanly. Using light…

ARIZONA Fiber Creek Suite 123, 1046 Willow Creek Rd Prescott, AZ 86301 (928) 717-1774 fibercreekprescott.com Tempe Yarn & Fiber 1415 E University Dr Tempe, AZ 85281 (480) 557-9166 tempeyarn.com The Spinster 624 E Beale St Kingman, AZ 86401 (928) 753-3660 spinsterinkingman.com ARKANSAS Red Scottie Fibers 51 Eureka Springs St Eureka Springs, AR 72931 (479) 253-0711 redscottiefibers.com (479) 253-0711 redscottiefibers.com CALIFORNIA Alamitos Bay Yarn Company 174 N. Marina Dr Long Beach, CA 90803 (562) 799-8484 yarncompany.com Cardigans Yarn and Fiber 3030 State St Santa Barbara, CA 93105 (805) 569-0531 cardigansyarnandfiber.com 1604 4th Street San Rafael, CA 94901 (435) 456–1211 dharmatrading.com Hands On Knitting Center 912 New York Street, Suite A Redlands, CA 92374 (909) 793-8712 www.handsonknittingcenter.com/ COLORADO 1101 E Lincoln Ave Fort Collins, CO 80524 (800) 558-5262 lambspun.com Longmont Yarn Shop…

It wouldn’t be a stretch to say that weavers love yarn. We covet art yarns with texture and interesting colorways and rely on workhorse yarns, such as 8/2 cottons, 2/8 wools, and 20/2 silks. A yarn store owner told me that she believes most people visiting her shop just want the visual and tactile sensations it provides. One shopper even told her, “I just came here to pet the yarn.” Put out a selection of pearl cotton cones at a study group, and within minutes, I guarantee one of the weavers in the group will start rearranging them by color type or into their own favorite color combinations. It’s in our nature. We planned this issue pre-COVID, not anticipating how that period of staying home would incentivize people to look…

Huang Daopo (1245–1330), known as the founder of China’s textile industry, ran away from an abusive marriage and ended up on Hainan Island. There, the Li people taught her the weaving and spinning skills they’d been practicing for centuries. Eventually, Huang moved back to the mainland, bringing her new cloth-making abilities with her. She, in turn, taught other women, and in time, the craft disseminated throughout China. What makes these factoids of interest to weavers are the exquisite textile techniques Li women perfected millennia ago on what are very simple tools. The Li people have no written language, so for the past 30 centuries, the craft passed by word of mouth and demonstration from mother to daughter. That the five Li enclaves on Hainan spoke mutually unintelligible dialects further complicated…

Who hasn’t been dazzled by intricate textiles in museums and books? Weaver Annie MacHale was intrigued by photographs of elaborately patterned bands and took on the challenge of figuring out how they were made, and so her new book was born. Within a few minutes of opening Three-Color Pickup for Inkle Weavers, I agreed that this technique is one that needs to be shared. MacHale is a prolific inkle weaver and the author of In Celebration of Plain Weave, a design guide for inkle weaving. With this new work, she has leapt from the simplest of bandweaving to the most complex, decoding a technique previously known to only a small region of Lithuania. The author discovered this style of weaving while perusing a copy of the outof-print Lithuanian Sashes (Tamošaitien?…

A Rainbow of Wools Create cloth with perfectly blended colors using Gist Yarn’s new Array 2/12 wool. Each color in Array’s line is available in four to five tones going from light to dark, so you can create ombre effects or give your weaving a more “painterly” feel. The wool in Array comes from sheep raised in the United States, and it is spun and dyed in North Carolina. The yarn works equally well in rigid-heddle, multishaft, and tapestry weaving and is available in 840 yd/4 oz and 210 yd/1 oz cones. gistyarn.com Monthly Weaving Kit Get projects delivered directly to your door with Vermont Weaving Supplies’ weaving clubs. Two clubs are available, both of which have options for rigid-heddle, four-shaft, and eight-shaft looms. The more traditional of the two,…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Zephyr 2/18 laceweight (50% tussah silk/50% merino wool; 1,120 yd/100 g; Jagger Spun), Ebony, 355 yd; Cinnabar, 343 yd. Weft: Zephyr 2/18 laceweight, Ebony and Cinnabar, 478 yd each. OTHER SUPPLIES Mild detergent. WARP LENGTH 232 ends 3 yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows 6" for take-up, 32" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 38 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 116⁄10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 70". I love all aspects of designing and weaving deflected doubleweave, but the last step, wet-finishing as the deflected design shows up, is the most fun. The deflection of threads in…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT 2" × 2" pin loom; 4" × 4" pin loom; 2" × 4" pin loom (two 2" × 2" squares joined can also be used); weaving needle. YARNS Cascade 220 (100% wool; 220 yd/3.5 oz skein; 1,006 yd/lb), #8311 Mineral Blue, 255 yd; #8892 Azure, 93 yd; #8011 Aspen Heather, 80 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook; 1 yd of 1" wide cotton or polypropylene belting; 16" × 30" light fabric for lining; 84" of 3⁄8" diameter jute rope; two 4" × 4" pieces of light leather, canvas, or other upholstery-weight fabric for wrapping bag handles; two 24" × ¼" leather strips or two 24" shoelaces; 1¼" × 11¼" flat wooden stick (Margaret used a wooden paint stir stick that she shortened by taking…

STRUCTURE Overshot-patterned doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2–4 bobbins; one piece of cardstock or cardboard 1" × 17" and another one 2" × 17" to serve as space holders. Note: Tape two pieces of 1" or 2" cardstock or cardboard together to get the length you need. YARNS Warp: 10/2 unmercerized cotton (4,200 yd/lb; Georgia Yarn Company), #55 Old Brick and #34 Peach, 1,047 yd each. Weft: 10/2 unmercerized cotton, #32 Cherry Red, #51 Persimmon, #36 Hyacinth Violet, and #41 Carolina Blue, 185 yd each; #37 Orchid, 360 yd; #58 Daffodil and #54 Lt. Cornflower, 180 yd each. Note: Malynda wove a runner to go with the placemats. The project information for the runner, including heddle count, warp color order, and draft, is available…

STRUCTURE Crackle treadled as twill. EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 40" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Bockens), #1223 Gray Med, 108 yd; #0145 Green Med Olive, 288 yd. 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #4272 Bleu, 84 yd; #5536 Sapin, 168 yd. 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #2448 Mediterranean Blue, 204 yd; #2868 Gray Blue, 372 yd; #2746 Dark Teal, 540 yd; #5680 Sagebrush, 624 yd; #5934 Elm Green, 456 yd. Weft: 8/2 cotton (Bockens), #1223 Gray Med, 2,086 yd. Note: Rebecca wove kitchen towels using the same draft and colors with modifications to width in reed and woven length. Information for weaving those towels can be found on page 65. WARP LENGTH 948 ends 3 yd long (allows 7" for…

Brassard, Maurice, et Fils, (819) 362-2408, mbrassard.com (Fox 62–65, Jablonski 58–60). Cascade Yarns, cascadeyarns.com (Stump 40–42). Eugene Textile Center, (541) 688-1565, eugenetextilecenter.com (Fox 62–65). Fabulous Yarn, (844) 233-8163, fabulousyarn.com (Schipf 36–38). Georgia Yarn Company, (706) 453-7603, handweaver.us georgia_yarn_company.htm (Allen 50–52, Lilly 48–49). Jagger Spun, (207) 324-4455, (800) 225-8023, jaggeryarn.com (Bhatia 30–32, Schipf 36–38). JoAnn Fabric and Craft Stores, (888) 739-4120, joann.com (Davies 54–56). Kreinik, (800) 537-2166, (304) 422-8900, kreinik.com (Schipf 36–38). Lone Star Loom Room, (888) 562-7012, lonestarloomroom.com (Kaestner 44–46). Made in America Yarns, (215) 425-5656, madeinamericayarns.com (Lilly 48–49). Silk City Fibers, (800) 899-7455, (973) 942-1100, silkcityfibers.com (Hill 33–35). Silk Weaving Studio, (604) 687-7455, silkweavingstudio.com (Moncrief 74–76). Vävstuga Swedish Weaving and Folk Arts, (413) 625-8241, vavstuga.com (Foulkes 66–68). WEBS, (800) 367-9327, yarn.com (Fox 62–65, Schipf 36–38).…

MARCH/APRIL 2022 National Parks and Museums Being stuck at home for much of 2020 and some of 2021 made many of us long for travel. What park or museum did you miss the most? Show us how national treasures, natural or man-made, have inspired you to weave a project and the path you took to design and weave it. MAY/JUNE 2022 Plain and Fancy Twills Some twills are so simple they can feel almost ordinary—until you realize that all those little floats add texture, drape, stretch, and lots of design opportunities. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the fancy twills that have all those same characteristics, while looking anything but simple. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 Cut and Sew We know it’s scary, but sometimes you need to bite the bullet,…

Evangeline was born with a rare genetic condition that results in intractable seizures, up to one hundred per day. She has a heart condition associated with the same gene mutation and developmental delay caused by the seizure activity. Now four years old, Evangeline requires around-the-clock nursing care and special equipment. This little girl is adored by her family; her fingernails are continually adorned with a fresh coat of polish, she is dressed in carefully chosen outfits, and she sports adorably styled hair. She is frequently serenaded with songs from her siblings who play string instruments. Evangeline’s parents and four older siblings decided to create a special space in their home where she could enjoy sensory experiences. Working with the Make-a-Wish Foundation, her family designed a “Sunny Sensory Room” where she…

STRUCTURE Doubleweave and plain weave with colorand-weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 30" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Wool Crepe Deluxe (80% merino/20% viscose; 2,100 yd/lb; Silk City Fibers), #145 French Navy and #114 Fisherman, 1,530 yd each. Weft: Wool Crepe Deluxe, #145 French Navy and #114 Fisherman, 950 yd each. Note: The yardages used here are for a size 12 top with three-quarter-length sleeves. OTHER SUPPLIES Sewing pattern #3119 Oliver from Seamwork (downloadable; see Resources); wool wash. WARP LENGTH 720 ends 4¼ yd long (allows 15" for take-up, 23" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 18 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 30". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 115". Finished size of fabric: (after wet-finishing) 26."…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 44" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1–3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Mora 20/2 wool (4,700 yd/lb; Borgs), #2082 tan, 2,936 yd; #2061 navy, 1,463 yd; #2067 green olive, 1,330 yd. Weft: Mora 20/2 wool, #2082 tan, 2,328 yd; #2061 navy and #2067 green olive, 1,182 yd each. OTHER SUPPLIES Closet Core Patterns, Sienna Maker Jacket; ½ yd fabric (Tracy used denim) for the under-collar and back facing; notions required by pattern; Synthrapol or Eucalan for wet-finishing. WARP LENGTH 1,206 ends 4¾ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 13" for take-up, 32" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 28 epi (2-2-3/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 28 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 432⁄12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 126". I learned to weave 40…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 41" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd/7 oz), #0774 Light Raspberry, 300 yd; #3251 Flame, 175 yd; #0579 Pale Plum, 100 yd; #0706 Perfect Pink, 230 yd. Note: #0722 Pretty ’N Pink or #1704 Bubble Gum could be substituted for Perfect Pink or Light Raspberry. Weft: Red Heart Super Saver Jumbo (100% acrylic; 744 yd/14 oz), #0313 Aran, 660 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Temple (optional but recommended); 2 weights for the outer 4–5 warp ends on both sides (optional) WARP LENGTH 322 ends 2½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 6" for take-up, 33" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 8 epi (1/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 10 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed:…

EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (Bockens), #1223 Gray Med, 72 yd; #0145 Green Med Olive, 144 yd. 8/2 cotton (Maurice Brassard), #4272 Bleu, 42 yd; #5536 Sapin, 84 yd. 8/2 cotton (Valley Yarns; WEBS), #2448 Mediterranean Blue, 102 yd; #2868 Gray Blue, 186 yd; #2746 Dark Teal, 270 yd; #5680 Sagebrush, 312 yd; #5934 Elm Green, 228 yd. Weft: 8/2 cotton (Bockens), #1223 Gray Med, 995 yd. WARP LENGTH 480 ends 3 yd long (allows 7" for take-up, 33" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 24–27 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 20". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 68" (34" per towel). Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) two…

Twisting (or plying) the fringe Divide the number of threads for each fringe into two groups. Twist each group clockwise until it kinks. Bring both groups together and allow them to twist around each other counterclockwise (or twist in that direction). Secure the ends with an overhand knot. (Use the same method to make a plied cord by attaching one end to a stationary object.) Double (Italian) hemstitching Weave several picks of plain weave (or the basic structure of the piece), ending with the shuttle on the right side if you are right-handed, the left side if you are left-handed. Measure a length of weft four times the warp width, cut, and thread this tail into a blunt tapestry needle. Take the needle under a selected group of warp threads…