Innholdsfortegnelse for September - October 2018 i Handwoven

IT’S HARD NOT TO FEEL INSPIRED BY AUTUMN as trees burst into bright yellows, oranges, and reds, and the chill in the air makes sitting at the loom all the more inviting. In honor of this inspiring season, the Potomac Fiber Arts Gallery presents Hats Off to Autumn, a show dedicated to autumn in Alexandria, Virginia, and the textiles inspired by the season. The show features mostly hats, as one might expect, as well as other fall-themed textiles. Hats Off to Autumn runs October 2–November 4 and is free to the public. Find more information about the show and the gallery at www.potomacfiberartsgallery.com.…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle, 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 unmercerized hand-dyed cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Mayan Hands Dye Project; Cotton Clouds), light indigo, 125 yd; dark indigo, 58 yd; light cochineal, 171 yd; dark cochineal, 116 yd; dark madder, 72 yd; Osage orange (gold), 86 yd; Osage orange/indigo (green), 33 yd; natural, 396 yd. Weft: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, dark madder, 463 yd; Osage orange (gold), 249 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Matching thread for hems. WARP LENGTH 385 ends 2¾ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 6" for take-up, 33" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 19 4/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 60". Finished size: (after washing…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 23" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin; temple (optional). YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton, (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #26 Dark Green, 1,670 yd; #136 Wintergreen, 972 yd; #142 Purple Passion, 84 yd; #95 Mineral, 126 yd; #128 Quince, 63 yd; #146 Periwinkle, 168 yd; #16 Royal, 126 yd; #50 Avocado, 32 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #26 Dark Green, 2,236 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES 11 yd monofilament line; ¼" Lite Steam-A-Seam 2 tape from the Warm Company; coordinating dark green sewing thread; Shout Color Catcher dye-trapping sheet. WARP LENGTH 617 ends 5¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 15" for take-up, 24" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 28 epi (2-2-3/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the…

STRUCTURE Shadow weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 17" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 5 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 unmercerized cotton (3,360 yd/lb, Halcyon), #51 Deep Royal, 374 yd; #42 Rust, 243 yd; #47 Copen Blue and #67 Jade, 432 yd each. 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI), #43 Orange, 72 yd. Weft: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, #54 Dark Navy, 315 yd; #47 Copen Blue, 350 yd; #42 Rust, 57 yd. 10/2 pearl cotton, #43 Orange, 38 yd. 22/2 cottolin (60% organic cotton/40% linen; 3,200 yd/lb; Bockens), #2033 Teal, 343 yd. WARP LENGTH 337 ends 4½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 12" for take-up, 40" for loom waste and sampling). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 19 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 17". Woven length: (measured…

SAMPLE: Warp Floats The yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima, 220 yd/3.5 oz, 100% Pima cotton; #3748 Buttercup, #3769 Ginger. Sett: 12 epi. Shrinkage in length: 7%. Shrinkage in width: 11%. Although it is a soft yarn, Ultra Pima yielded fabric with a polished, crisp appearance. It worked well as warp and weft. This sample, woven with warp floats, suggests vest fabric to me. Plain weave woven with Ultra Pima would make excellent placemats. SAMPLE: Weft Floats The yarn: Cascade Yarns Anchor Bay, 262 yd/3.5 oz, 50% cotton, 50% superwash merino wool; #19 Dark Purple, #07 Blue Bell. Sett: 10 epi. Shrinkage in length: 12%. Shrinkage in width: 20%. The Anchor Bay yarn was the most “knitterly” of the yarns I sampled. It was soft and plush right off the ball…

RAISE YOUR HAND if you’ve ever woven a piece that didn’t turn out the way you planned. Okay, you can all put your hands down now. It’s happened to all of us at some point: a scarf that turned out stiffer than envisioned, a table runner that was shorter than planned, the time(s) you ran out of weft (or warp) before you reached the end of the project. Yep, we’ve all been there. Colorful language and a good tantrum can make us feel (slightly) better in the moment, but the long-term answer to these problems is… math. Wait, don’t bail out yet! Math is our friend in weaving. No matter what kind of loom you use, you need to be able to accurately calculate the amount of warp and weft…

STRUCTURE Huck lace. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles, 9 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 unmercerized cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Mayan Hands Dye Project; Cotton Clouds), light indigo, 165 yd; dark indigo, 53 yd; light cochineal and dark cochineal, 124 yd each; dark madder, 163 yd; Osage orange (gold), 127 yd, Osage orange/indigo (green), 58 yd; natural, 234 yd. Weft: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, light indigo, 82 yd; dark indigo, 24 yd; light cochineal, 53 yd; dark cochineal, 76 yd; dark madder and Osage orange (gold), 59 yd each; Osage orange/indigo (green), 30 yd; natural, 153 yd. White sewing thread for hems, 35 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Fusible thread; matching thread for hems. WARP LENGTH 380 ends 2¾ yd long (allows 7" for take-up, 33" for loom waste). SETTS Warp:…

STRUCTURE Twill and half-basketweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #26 Dark Green, 851 yd; #27 Purple, 363 yd; #93 Deep Lavender, 552 yd; #95 Mineral, 174 yd; #68 King Blue, 336 yd; #146 Periwinkle, 315 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #26 Dark Green, 2,274 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Coordinating sewing thread for hems; Shout Color Catcher dye-trapping sheet. WARP LENGTH 493 ends 5¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 15" for take-up, 24" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 20 8/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 150". Finished size: (after washing and hemming) 6 napkins, each 17½"…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle, 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #142 Purple Passion, 968 yd; #105 Paradise, 1,507 yd; #128 Quince, 176 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #26 Dark Green, 2,308 yd. WARP LENGTH 482 ends 5½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 16" for take-up, 27" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 20 2/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 155". Finished size: (after washing and hemming) 6 napkins, each 17" x 17" with ½" hems. THE NAPKIN EXCHANGE PROJECT came at a time in my life when I was being pulled in many directions. Although I…

STRUCTURE Shadow weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 3 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (3,360 yd/lb; Camilla Valley Farm), #405 Brick, 290 yd; #304 Old Gold, 85 yd; #309 Burnt Orange, 150 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, #405 Brick, 234 yd; #304 Old Gold, 71 yd; #309 Burnt Orange, 142 yd. WARP LENGTH 163 ends 3¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 29" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 8 3/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 80". Finished size: (after washing) 7¼" x 72" with 3" fringe. ALTHOUGH I PURCHASED 1000(+) Patterns in 4, 6, and 8 Harness Shadow Weaves by Marian Powell several years…

PROJECT DIRECTORY RH = rigid-heddle loom. Levels indicate weaving skills, not sewing skills. AB = Advanced Beginner, I = Intermediate, A = Advanced. “All levels” includes very new weavers. SUPPLIERS Brassard, Maurice, et Fils, 1573 Savoie, C. P. 4, Plessisville, QC, Canada G6L 2Y6, (819) 362-2408, www.mbrassard.com (Evans 46–47; Porter 36–37). Camilla Valley Farm Weavers’ Supply, PO Box 341, Orangeville, ON, Canada L9W 2Z7, (519) 941-0736, Fax: (519) 941-0804, www.camillavalleyfarm.com, nmanners@camillavalleyfarm.com (Hill 38–39; Howard 35–36; Love 41–42; Rimsha 51–52; Williams 40–41). Cotton Clouds, 5176 S. 14th Ave., Safford, AZ 85546, (800) 322-7888, www.cottonclouds.com (Fox 30, 67; Smothergill 28–29; Szczotka 27–28). Halcyon Yarn, 12 School St., Bath, ME 04530, (800) 341-0282, www.halcyonyarn.com (Barbieri 55–56; Osterhaug 60–61). Lone Star Loom Room, (888) 562-7012, www.lonestarloomroom.com (Barbieri 55–56; Fox 30, 67). WEBS, 75 Service…

Weaving in the Round Create woven works of art to display on your wall, turn into jewelry, or hang on your Christmas tree with Round Weaver Art Looms from Purl & Loop. These single-use round looms require small amounts of yarn, so they’re perfect for using up extra-special bits and bobs of leftover yarn that you can’t bear to throw away. They range in diameter from 1" to 5" and are available in packages containing a single size as well as variety packs—there are even kits for making earrings. Display stands are available separately. www.purlandloop.com RailReed Adjust your warp’s sett while you weave with the RailReed. This ingenious tool attaches to the beater of your floor loom, and with sliding, hinged modules, you can stop weaving mid-project and adjust the…

IN 2017, ESTONIAN TEXTILE ARTIST KADI PAJUPUU VISITED WEEFCOLLECTIEF FRYSLÂN, a weaving studio, school, and co-op in the Netherlands, to demonstrate her weaving invention: the RailReed. A unique weaving tool, the RailReed allows you to vary the warp width and density during weaving to create new patterns and even new structures. How does it work? The RailReed attaches in front of the beater of a floor loom. The device consists of two aluminum rods on which you can fix multiple independently working modules side by side. These modules control the sett, and you can adjust the width of each one during weaving by simply expanding or collapsing it. The range of width variation for each module is 3.5 to 7 centimeters (1⅛" to 2¾"). There are also possibilities for playing…

STRUCTURE Huckaback. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 or more bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 unmercerized hand-dyed cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Mayan Hands Dye Project; Cotton Clouds), dark madder, 237 yd; Osage orange (gold) and light indigo, 231 yd each; light cochineal, 154 yd; dark indigo, 77 yd; Osage orange/indigo (green), 116 yd. Weft: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, dark madder, 236 yd; natural, 510 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Matching thread for hems. WARP LENGTH 380 ends 2¾ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 6" for take-up, 33" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20–21 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 18 9/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 60". Finished size: (after washing and hemming) 2 towels, 14½" x 22"…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle, 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI, Yarn Barn of Kansas), #146 Periwinkle, 770 yd; #136 Wintergreen, 1,890 yd; #107 Melon, 150 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #27 Purple, 1,778 yd. Hems: 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb; Brassard et Fils), Purple, 300 yd, or #50 cotton sewing thread (14,000 yd/lb; www.connectingthreads.com), Royal Purple, 600 yd (used double). OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol textile detergent; Shout Color Catcher dyetrapping sheets. WARP LENGTH 562 ends 5 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 14" for take-up, 25" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 28 epi (2-2-3/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 23–24 ppi in napkin body, 24 ppi for hems. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 20 2/12". Woven length: (measured under…

STRUCTURE M’s and O’s. EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle, 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #146 Periwinkle, 70 yd; #16 Royal, 850 yd; #107 Melon, 185 yd; #136 Wintergreen and #26 Dark Green, 340 yd each; #142 Purple Passion, 670 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #146 Periwinkle, 2,264 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol textile detergent. WARP LENGTH 491 ends 5 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up, 32" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 26 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 20 7/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 138". Finished size: (after washing and hemming) 6 napkins, each 17" x 17¼" with ¼" hems. THE PRIMARY…

I’D LIKE TO INTRODUCE MYSELF as a weaver of 20-plus years and a spinner for even longer. I’ve learned over time that there are many types of weavers in our field: pure artists, utilitarians, technicians, mathematicians, and engineers. I’ve always thought that I’m fairly well-balanced in most of these genres because I’m as interested in the finely woven product as I am in the actual “machine” involved in the process. I am a master of none of the above, but I do love the workings of a fine machine and the mechanics involved in each type of weaving loom. I’ve encountered many weaving looms: some new, some old, some ancient, and some badly in need of repair just to be functional. It recently occurred to me that this type of…