Gripped: The Climbing Magazine October & November 2020 / Vol 21 issue 5

I spent my summer driving around Canada visiting classic and hidden crags. Despite the borders being closed, there were countless climbers filling the parking lots at most of our most amazing climbing areas. I met Quebec climbers in B.C. and Alberta climbers in Ontario; it seemed that the pandemic forced Canadians to explore north of the border more than south for a long-overdue change. Even the Toronto climbers were heading four hours north to Sudbury because local escarpment crags had too many access restrictions due to covid-19. I focused on finding secret local crags to stay away from the crowds, and what I found were places that felt more raw and rugged than the heavily used, now-like-outdoor-gyms crags. There’s a reason why climbers like to keep their quiet not-on-Mountain-Project crags…

La Sportiva Stratos Mask $35 The La Sportiva Stratos Mask is a hygienic protection mask. Enhanced ergonomic comfort and ease of filter replacement make this mask ideal for daily use. Includes one washable and reusable mask plus 30 disposable filters. You may also purchase filter refills separately as a pack of 90. Freestone Love Handle $30 The Love Handle helps to keep your gear organized in your pack, vehicle or at home. Unlike a sling, the rigid grip keeps the cord stretched out, giving you plenty of room to sort quickdraws and cams without having them bunch up. A great piece of gear for those with a lot organizing to do. Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe $120 A more technical take on its traditional mountaineering tool, the Raven Pro…

In August, Becca Frangos climbed her first 5.14a, Leviathan. The Canadian competition champion has racked up a respectable send list over the past few years, including many classic hard sport routes. We touched base with her before she moved back to Victoria, B.C., after spending the COVID-19 lockdown with her family in Canmore. 1 How did it feel sending your first 5.14a? Amazing. It’s been on the list as something I’ve wanted to accomplish for a while. Leviathan is by no means on the lower end of the grade range either, so it gives me motivation to continue to push myself. I know I’m still capable of climbing harder. 2 Why did you choose Leviathan? I really wanted to challenge myself both physically and mentally. It’s been a route I’ve…

Sonnie Trotter Repeats New Test-piece At 40, Sonnie Trotter, one of Canada’s most accomplished climbers visited Back of the Lake on the last day of August and made the second ascent of the hardest new route at the crag. Braden Bester cleaned and bolted The Empyrean this summer and sent it last week. It starts up Turtle Mountain, a 25-metre 5.10, and heads into Venom, a classic 5.11+, for a few bolts before breaking left up a steep, coloured wall. Bester graded the 40-plus-metre route 5.13d, a grade that Trotter agreed with after his recent second ascent. Trotter said it’s like 5.13b/c to a V7/8 dyno-ish move with the right hand into a finger slot. The move is all about precision while managing a deep pump. Two Quebec Crushers Send…

New Brunswick Aid Freed New Brunswick climbers Peter and Jon Adamson have freed Orpheus, a wild-looking line at the Amphitheatre, Welsford. It was first climbed in 2011 by Chris Norfolk and Erick Burley using some bolts and a lot of aid trickery. No grade was suggested, but it’s difficult. New Mega 5.12 Near Nordegg Zardoz is a new six-pitch 5.12c in the Canadian Rockies. Rhys Beaudry and Konstantin Stoletov made the first free ascent in July 2020. “It’s probably one of the most scenic multi-pitch climbs in Alberta,” said Stoletov. Joe Skopec Repeats Lion’s Head Express 5.14b Ontario’s strong Joe Skopec made a rare repeat of Lion’s Head Express at Lion’s Head in mid-August. The following day he made a quick send of American Dream 5.13d. The Fame Monster An…

  Whether you knew him as David, Squish or Trailing Adventures, you knew he lived for adventure, and more notably, lived to share those adventures. He was a partner you could count on, and never said no to playing in the mountains – in fact, the more spontaneous or what seemed to be “far reaching,” the better. For example, spending six months on the trail completing the Sierra High Route of the Pacific Crest Trail, climbed Mount Louis in his first year of learning trad climbing, and skied Mount Joffre in a day. David was born and raised in China. A few years after moving to Canada, he ventured to the mountains for the first time with some friends to go on what they described as a “hike.” His friends…