Innholdsfortegnelse for April - May 2023 i Great Walks

IN June 2022, I set off on my third solo walk in France, walking for four weeks through the south west, inland from Bordeaux. The landscape varied from rolling hills to imposing cliffs with magnificent gorges and winding rivers. The walking was on marked trails, in forests, alongside creeks and across farmland and sometimes on tiny roads where you’re more likely to encounter a tractor than a car. I mapped out this walk myself, which is straightforward, as France has a comprehensive network of marked long distance walking trails, known as Grandes Randonnées (GR), meaning “big hikes”, whose markers are a white stripe over a red stripe. Walking in France has grown in popularity. On my first walk in 2015, I didn’t see another hiker. In 2018, I saw a…

THIS MONTH’S WINNING PHOTO Namadgi NP, ACT Photo: Gavin Kellett, Ainslie, ACT Camera: Canon 5D Mark 3 Gavin: “Legoland, an above ground cave structure in Namadgi NP, ACT was transformed into a winter wonderland when we were hit by a snowstorm. The temperature plummeted but luckily we headed to the shelter of the cave and watched the beauty around unfold around us.” Mount Kaputar NP, NSW Photo: John Morrow, Bodalla NSW Camera: Samsung Galaxy John: “This photo was taken of a freshwater pool near the summit of Mount Yulladunida, a great walk of about 4km. We spent several days at Dawson Springs cabins at Mount Kaputar (via Narrabri) and enjoyed terrific walks and some of the most spectacular views anywhere!” Grampians, Vic Photo: Helen Nicholson, Research, Vic Camera: iPhone 12…

EVERY bushwalker needs a headlamp. We’ve come a long way since the first modern, hands-free lighting, the Petzl Zoom in 1981. While we can joke that wearing the Zoom was a bit like mounting a flickering candle in a mixing bowl on one’s head, it was the forerunner of all the models in this review. These compact units that can do so much more at the flick of a button, yet in so much smaller packages. How far each of these offspring has diverged from the genes of their shared great-great-(etc)-grandmother is exactly what I aimed to discover when I took the whole brood to Island Bend campsite on a mountain biking weekend in February. There, I tested them for functionality and usability. I pored over their specifications. Lumen outputs…

THE ARKABA WALK THE Arkaba Walk is an exclusive opportunity to brave the wilds of the Ikara-Flinders Ranges and Wilpena Pound by foot, over four nights and five days, disconnecting from the everyday and re-wilding on this private 60-000-acre wildlife conservancy. One of the Great Walks of Australia, experience the sights, sounds, scale and space of outback Australia in a style that is exclusive and authentic. We bring together a team of skilled, passionate field guides to host your walking adventure, and pair the experience with a few key creature comforts for an immersive bush experience to remember. Sleep under the stars in signature swags at two exclusive bush camps. Combined with a night pre and post walk at the more luxurious Arkaba Homestead dating back to 1856, a classic…

GUIDED GETAWAYS AS a kid I did not do much bushwalking, but over the years I developed a passion for the outdoors and the physical challenge of hiking in wilderness areas. My first serious hike was in Nepal on the Annapurna Circuit, followed by the Darien Gap linking North and South America around Panama and Columbia. Many treks followed in Australia, NZ and PNG. I have trekked Kokoda multiple times, each time learning more about the trail and the history. My father fought there in 1942 so I have a real connection. I decided to turn my passion into a business, and initially added Kokoda, quickly followed by other hikes I had done in the past from both Tasmania and Victoria. Our clients get to experience PNG – with Kokoda,…

TWELVE days, 12 hikers, 12 months in the planning. Our Great Queensland Rail Trail Adventure began in Kilkivan (100km north-west of Noosa) and ended at Ipswich (45km south-west of Brisbane). The 305km we walked consisted of the 161km Brisbane Valley Rail Trail (BVRT), the 89km Kilkivan to Kingaroy Rail Trail (KKRT) and the 55km Link Trail (LT) which connects them. The original rail lines that make up the BVRT and KKRT were developed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to carry passengers, timber, meat, and crops such as peanuts. By the late 20th century the rail lines were decommissioned as road transport became more widespread and economical. Now in the early 21st century, rail trails across the country are gaining popularity as local and state government funding is…

WHERE NEXT?BALD HEAD TRAIL, TORNDIRRUP NP, WA The recently upgraded Bald Head walk trail is receiving lots of attention on social media. Many walkers rate it as WA's best day walk. Situated on the Flinders Peninsula in Torndirrup NP, the challenging 12.5km return trail follows the ridge line out into the Southern Ocean, with the relatively sheltered waters of King George Sound on one side and the powerful Southern Ocean on the other, the expansive vista on this walk is spectacular. Erosion control measures have been installed, including steps, eco-matting and trail surface platforms. The Parks and Wildlife Service of the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions will start enlarging the carpark and build a new toilet to cope with the increased number of walkers. Lastly, the access road will…

THE summer just gone brought an extremely wet season that caused widespread flooding and horrific damage all over the East Coast of Australia; the trails were not immune. It was a time to let nature run its course and to be there to help pick up the pieces when it passed. Patience and adaptability were required. I spent the summer up in the Northern Rivers of NSW, sizing up some hikes around the local areas, but for obvious reasons the trails were too dangerous and for large periods of time, obstructed. I feel lucky during this time to be largely unaffected by the things going on around us and to be able to freely move around and scratch my hiking itch. With plans to spend the winter down south in…

IT was 5am when an elbow to the ribs woke me and the enticing words, "I'm getting excited." Numerous possibilities danced before my mind's eye. My wife's elbow found its target once more, and I heard Maggie say, "I'm getting excited … about hiking the Pacific Crest Trail with you”. What followed was how every good English person deals with becoming slightly over-excited. We sat up in bed and had a strong cup of tea. Thus began my seven-year quest to gain my Triple Crown of thru-hiking (a long-distance walk from start to finish in one go, also known as end-to-end hiking) in the USA by hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (4270km), the Appalachian Trail (3540 km) and the Continental Divide Trail (5000km). The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) heads north…

BEHIND THE SCENES OVER the past year, seven of the older style campsites along the Bibbulmun Track have received much needed upgrades with funding provided by the WA Recovery Plan, the Forest Enhancement Fund and the Parks and Wildlife Service of the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions. Just over $750,000 was spent on a series of maintenance issues that needed to be actioned to keep the Bibbulmun Track at its world class status. The Bibbulmun turns 25 this year and without some attention parts of it could have aged, potentially become unsafe and not lived up to its reputation. An additional $250,000 was spent on the construction of a new group campsite approximately 450m east of the existing Monadnocks campsite. These group campsites are built for use by schools,…

OVERLAND TRACK IN 2005 I walked the Overland Track on my own. I flew to Launceston on Boxing Day and was on the trail within a few hours. The whole process was quite seamless because I had done my research. But there were a few things I wasn’t sure about, such as if I was able to buy gas canisters for my stove on a public holiday – obviously I wasn’t able to carry them on the plane from Sydney. I found out the bus company that would drive me to Cradle Mountain Information Centre sold them at the counter so that made life easier. Every bit of information you can get before you hop on the trail will help you have a fun, successful and safe trip. So with…

BUSH SAFETY EMBARRASSED by it all now, so long ago it was, that I was going to throw this newspaper photo from May 1999 out when my husband Les handed it to me the other evening. Then I thought to write it up, as it was a most interesting adventure – overall. In 1999 I was out of sorts with family life, so I decided I needed a couple of days away. I packed up my rucksack for an overnight walk to explore a gully running down the eastern side of the ridge north of Mt Feathertop. From a previous trip on the Bogong High Plains, it could be seen tumbling steep but clear of forest in a straight line down to the West Kiewa River. It looked like bracken…

“THERE WILL BE COMMUNITY CELEBRATIONS” IN Albany, on September 13th 1998, Hon. Cheryl Edwards, Minister for the Environment, cut the ribbon to open the “New Bibbulmun Track”. This symbolic act marked the culmination of a four-year project entitled “Building a Better Bibbulmun Track” headed up by the Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM) to realign, rebuild and extend the original Track, which was opened in October 1979, and transform it into a world class walk trail. A steering committee of 12, chaired by Jim Sharp and ably guided by project co-ordinator Jesse Brampton spearheaded the huge operation, which involved the construction of 1000km of walk trail and 48 campsites. Enormous numbers of people became involved in the process, including private individuals and community groups offering funding and assistance “in…

IN September 2022, my walking buddy and I set out on a 14-day trek to Nepal’s Mount Annapurna Base Camp. We planned to trek in the Himalayan spring, after the monsoon season, and booked the ‘comfort’ option, which was a no-brainer for two ‘seniors’! ‘Comfort’ meant staying in traditional guest houses with the promise of a hot shower. In Kathmandu, we met our guide for a pre-trek briefing. In the ‘comfort’ of our hotel, the guide unexpectedly advised we may be staying in tents, during seven nights at highest altitude due to difficulties in making bookings, which raised concerns. The next day, we flew to Pokhara and began our climb, firstly through wonderful enveloping rainforest, which would gradually lead to the base of the world’s tenth highest mountain. Over the…

ONE of the most rewarding parts of being a Duke of Edinburgh Award leader is getting to visit some pretty special places within NSW and around Australia. With La Nina graciously offering us a break in the seemingly constant wet weather, 40 eager and excited teenagers (and their equally excited leaders) embarked on the spectacular overnight Wharf to Wharf walk, a 27km traverse hugging the rugged coastline of the Sapphire Coast between the picturesque towns of Merimbula and Tathra. It lies almost smack-bang in the middle of Sydney and Melbourne, about a six hour drive from each or three hours from Canberra. You may have heard of the famed Light to Light Walk just 30km to the south near Eden, but the Wharf to Wharf should not be underestimated. After…

PEOPLE often ask me, “what’s your all-time favourite hiking destination?” Out of respect, I always take a moment to contemplate this question. I look towards the sky and stroke my chin to give the impression that I’m deep in thought and that I’m seriously pondering this important subject matter. But my answer is always the same … “Victoria’s High Country”. It all comes down to personal preference, but for me, the Victorian High Country and alpine region ticks all the right boxes. It features stunning national parks, soaring mountains, lakes, rivers and picturesque valleys. It contains historic villages, vineyards and vibrant snow resorts. It has a rich history of Aboriginal culture, gold discovery, cattlemen and bushrangers. And best of all it features amazing food, wine, craft breweries and friendly country…

AS one of the four points of Australia, Land’s End is dramatically known as the most southern tip of the mainland. It is also not the easiest point to reach involving a two-day hike and an overnight camp with no vehicle access. Located in Victoria’s oldest national park, Wilsons Promontory was discovered by sea in 1798 through an expedition led by George Bass. Geographically, the most southern tip is called South Point, however due to the spectacular view and heritage of the Wilsons Promontory Lightstation another 4km southeast, the lighthouse became a popular and favourable destination visited by many. Only reachable by foot, both South Point and the lighthouse overlook the Bass Strait showcasing a spectacular view of infinite ocean. Brimming with excitement, we set ourselves the challenge to reach…

TRAINING FOR THE BIG WALK “STOP! Think about what’s working and what’s not,” instructs my friend Hilary. There’s a lot for our small group of 60+ year-old women to think about. In a few weeks we’ll be walking an average of 20km per day for six days on a multiday pack-free guided walk in WA. We’ve been training independently, with regular daily suburban walks, local bush trails and pump classes. I walk up and down our 90+ uneven stone steps ten times a day. With the WA walk fast approaching, we need to do more. I put a call out for the others to join me on a few bushwalks. This will put our track fitness to the test and enable us to try out our gear to figure out…

BACK TO BASICS WHAT does it mean to be a responsible walker? If we stick to the messages of the Think before you TREK campaign (which I do!) carrying some form of an emergency communication device (especially in areas of no phone coverage) is essential. There are two main types: 1 Personal Locator Beacons (PLB): This is the one button, one job, one-way communication beacon, that sends an SOS directly to emergency agencies in the relevant country, such as AMSA (Australian Maritime Safety Authority) for Australia; or 2 Handheld Satellite Communicators: such as Zoleo, Garmin InReach/Messenger or ACR Bivy Stick that communicate on the Iridium network, or SPOT via Global Star network. When SOS is activated from these devices it is received via a 3rd party emergency call centre…

Need to know: parks.tas.gov.au…