Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2022 - January 2023 i Great Walks

THIS issue is packed with all manner of inspiring walks to put on your 2023 calendar – including the Wild South Coast Way, not far from Adelaide, Bald Rock NP in norther-western NSW, a 5-day tour of the Red Centre and a north-south traverse of Tasmania. Plus, we focus on some exciting walks along the European Alps. As a way to say goodbye to 2022 we thought we’d look back at some of the quirkier stories we’ve reported on this year. A woman who dropped her phone into a long-drop toilet in a US national forest, fell in while trying to retrieve it and had to be rescued by firefighters. After losing the phone the woman disassembled the toilet seat and used dog leashes to try and get the phone,…

THE emerald-green meadows at the tip of the Fleurieu Peninsula are laden with dew that makes them sparkle in the morning sunshine, their slope naturally leading my eyes to a waterline where granite rocks dusted with bright orange lichen pop against a cobalt blue background. Across the Backstairs Passage, the Kangaroo Island ferries look like toy boats beneath sheer cliffs that plunge straight down into the glittering waters. It’s a far cry from the dusty outback landscape of the Flinders Ranges. Exactly 1200km, as a nearby sign informs me. At least, that’s how long it would take me to follow the Heysen Trail from its starting point at Cape Jervis to Parachilna Gorge in South Australia north. Fortunately, I’m only tackling the first 74km on a route that’s been known…

“I TUNED MYSELF TO THE SOUNDS, SMELLS AND SIGHTS OF NATURE” THERE are benefits to slow travel, of not trying to see and do everything all at once. As a tour guide, I’d visited the Red Centre many times before, escorting groups on a whirlwind tour of Uluru – to watch the sunrise and sunset before flying out. But travel is about connecting with people, nature, culture and place and I was always left with a sense that there was so much more. There is no better way to connect with the outback than to strap on the hiking boots and walk across it. So when I saw Life’s an Adventure offers a five-day tour to the Red Centre, including Kings Canyon, Kata Tjuta and Uluru, I jumped at the…

GREAT DAY WALKSBALD ROCK NP, NSW BALD Rock NP (near Tenterfield, NSW) and I have a few things in common. We’ve both been in the world for half a century. Due to COVID, we both missed out on our intended 50th celebrations last year. So, this year, we’re each doing our best to make up for it. One way I’m celebrating is by travelling a bit further afield again, with activities like crossing the QLD-NSW border, which this 8,883-hectare park touches, holding more allure than ever. Add to that the promise of exploring 500m-wide by 750m-long Bald Rock, the southern hemisphere’s largest granite monolith, and I’m hooked on the idea of this hiking destination. Proclaimed as a 5,200-acre state park in 1971 and a national park by 1974, Bald Rock…

GROWING up in the NSW Blue Mountains as a child of the ‘90s gave me not only the basis of what great music is, but also the freedom to roam the bushland every weekend and school holidays. At the time I never realised how unique this was, or that anyone else grew up differently. Now I look back and am grateful for the foundation of nature that’s given me a passion for the Australian bushland, leading me to work to help conserve and protect the natural environment. Now, as a desk bound adult, hiking is my passion and escape from preconceived obligations – and a reset button. I started hiking several years ago after an ill prepared (but fun) overnight hiking adventure with family up to Mt Solitary in the…

BEHIND THE SCENESWESTPAC RESCUE SERVICE I have been CEO of the Westpac Rescue Helicopter for 27 years now. In the early ‘80s though, I played a bit of rugby league for the St George Dragons before returning to Newcastle to play for South Newcastle, which was my junior club. I was injured in the ‘90s which put an end to my playing career but got me into commentating alongside NBN Television’s Mike Rabbit and former Newcastle Knights Coach Allan McMahon who was running the Rescue Helicopter at the time. In 1995 I applied for the General Manager role as Allan was leaving, and the rest is history. Over my 27 years I have seen great change across the Service, including the addition of the Tamworth base in 2000 and taking…

WHERE NEXT?KOSCIUSZKO NP, NSW The first part of the Snowies Alpine Walk in Kosciuszko NP has officially opened. The 9km Guthega to Charlotte Pass walk begins at Guthega village and winds through sub-alpine landscape, following the beautiful upper Snowy River, before arriving at picturesque Charlotte Pass. Walkers can immerse themselves in high-country plains and enjoy panoramic views of the majestic Main Range, as well as wildflowers, gnarled snow gums and unique wildlife. A suspension bridge at the highest elevation in Australia (1627m) also features along the track, allowing walkers to cross scenic Spencers Creek. The Snowies Alpine Walk – due for completion in late 2023 – will deliver an exceptional 4-day/55km walk linking Guthega, Charlotte Pass, Perisher and Bullocks Flat with up to 29km of newly constructed track, combined with…

IF you liked the Wild South Coast Way (pg10) but would prefer to explore coastal South Australia as a guided walk with all the creature comforts thrown in then you’ll love the Southern Ocean Walk. One of the hallmarks of the Southern Ocean Walk is the way in which each day presents completely different scenery. This 4-day/3-night guided tour offers some of the most spectacular elements of the famous Heysen Trail between Cape Jervis and Victor Harbor. The diverse landscape ranges from remote beaches to inland forests interspersed with vantage points where walkers can take in panoramic views of the Southern Ocean. This family-owned business is run by Barry Duykers and Jane Formato who provide weekly departures during the walking season for up to eight guests. “Rather than offer walks…

MUTI-DAY hikes in Europe can often be done hut to hut, generally by people who are more organised than me. The huts are usually excellent, offering beds, three-course meals and drinks – and can book out fast. But if you have a tent, you don’t need a plan, right? When my partner Peter and I decided to take on the Haute Route, a 10-14 day hike from Chamonix to Zermatt through the Alps, we decided to play it all by ear. As well as not requiring advance planning, this would allow us to keep our itinerary flexible. From the beginning, we agreed: we could have short days or even rest days; we could jump on a bus to skip sections. Most of all, we’re doing this for fun. Full disclosure,…

HIKING is in the blood of Austrians. Doubly so for those who live in Tirol, Austria’s most mountainous province in the country’s west, where peaks rise above 3000m. Here, 1400km of signed and graded trails crisscross Kermit-green valleys all the way up to rocky snow-covered peaks – a magnet for lovers of the outdoors (i.e, the entire population). On weekends, families are often out hiking to a hut for lunch, sometimes with the family dog in tow. Like anywhere, there are tours that will show you the way, but this is a destination you can also easily explore on your own – the Tirolean way. From Vienna it’s an easy four hours by fast train to Jenbach, gateway to Tirol’s Zillertal Alps. Here, the Ziller River has cut a mountain…

FOOT MAINTENANCE HIKING is a great way to get out in nature and explore the world around you, but it’s important to remember that your feet are your foundation. Without taking care of them, you won’t be able to hike for very long. Exercises for feet There are plenty of exercises for feet, but we’ve distilled some of the best ones to list the combination that will work for every healthy hiker as a pre-workout for their next hike: ACHILLES TENDON STRETCH: Sit on the floor with your legs extended in front of you and a towel wrapped around the ball of your foot. Keep your heel on the ground as you pull the towel toward you with your toes pointed, stretching the Achilles tendon. Hold for 30 seconds and…

THE Tasmanian Trail is a 480km traverse through the heartland of Tasmania. This ambling and undulating trail with several options for different access goes from Devonport in the north to Dover in the south, giving the user a broad dissection of Tasmanian countryside. In their handbook, The Tasmanian Trail Association has broken the trail into 16 “Stages” of varying distance and difficulty. I took out a one-year membership of the Tasmanian Trail Association for about $100. This allowed me to download and print the guidebook and course maps, as well as get an access key (additional and refundable cost) for gates and toilets. While the trail guidebook has small graphic profile maps of each stage, it wasn’t until I walked them that I was able to accurately know how much…

THERE is so much to discover on foot it’s hard to know where to go next. So as a little helper we are showcasing a number of independent and guided walks that will make your year extra special. Some are new, some have been around for a while, but they are all excellent. Independent Grampians Peaks Trail, Vic Officially opened 12 months ago, this spectacular walk has everything a multi-day walk should have – spectacular views, well-made and well-marked tracks, and award-winning designed huts and shelters. However, the walk is quite challenging in places, so you need a high level of fitness and all the right gear. “Anyone expecting a heavily groomed trail to pair with the fancy campsites, however, will be either sorely disappointed or deeply relieved, depending on…

VIA Alpina is a classic among the long-distance hikes in Switzerland. This trail takes you once through the northern Alps of Switzerland in a series of 20 daily stages. Its 14 alpine passes and great variety of alpine culture, flora and fauna are the fuel of a hiking enthusiast’s dreams. If you go hiking for several days, not only will you discover the unknown side of Switzerland, you will also get to enjoy a great deal of Swiss hospitality. Green-blue lakes, delightful rolling hills or passes bursting with panoramic views: what you see on foot, you will remember. 1 The Via Alpina travels past glaciated peaks such as the Wildstrubel (Kandersteg to Adelboden) and the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. The trail itself stays solidly on trekking terrain. At times this…

ON the fifth day of my self-guided walk in the Dolomites I found myself alone. The mighty Sassolungo massif stood above me like a silent sentinel as I watched a beautiful golden eagle soaring through the sky. Far down the valley I could see the town of Selva where I was based and ahead of me the trail skirted past a lovely lake. I was reminded of a quote from local identity, mountaineer and author Reinhold Messner who said, “Each mountain in the Dolomites is like a piece of art”. Which is perfect because I’ve always loved art. If you’ve never been on a multi-day self-guided walk, it’s not as daunting as you might think. Walking tour operators like Hidden Italy have done the hard yards for you. They’ve researched…

MENTAL HEALTH HOWEVER you look at it, walking 5000km from Wilsons Promontory, Victoria to Cape York in Far North Queensland, is no mean feat. Add in La Niña and its effect on the landscape, all the uncertainty of COVID, and the fact that for 23-year-old Bailey Seamer, this is only her second ever multi-day hike, and you have all the ingredients of a life changing walk. And that’s what this story was going to be about. That Bailey has bipolar disorder and is raising money for the Black Dog Institute is part of it, sure, but it wasn’t going to be the focus. That’s because I didn’t understand what it’s like to have a chronic mental illness and be followed around by the metaphorical black dog even on a walk…

NEED TO KNOW The most common point to park is Long Gully campground, but it can be accessed from other directions. Stats are approx. 12km return and around 1000m ascent. Allow between 8-10 hours to be sure. There is a river crossing over Yadboro River. Normally it is knee deep but with the high rainfall it could be problematic or dangerous. In normal times the track is lacking water access, but in these times that may have changed with higher rainfall, but carry plenty of water. The final ascent up the tail can be challenging for people that do not have a head for heights. nationalparks.nsw.gov.au…

FOLLOWING in the footsteps of columnist Katrina 'Kit Kat' Hemingway is daunting enough, but I am writing about topics for readers who may have far more experience than I. Well here goes... My first days of being a walker was literally 'in the bush' growing up on a 12,000-acre cattle and crop station in Central Queensland. This was rudely interrupted by my parents who sold the property, believing that my three brothers and I needed access to more opportunities that could only be offered in a city life and that was Brisbane. Suddenly I was immersed in a hectic world of schooling and work and it wasn't until decades later that my link with nature was rekindled when I started to do serious bushwalking with others around the Scenic Rim…