Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2025 i Gourmet Traveller

What makes Tasmania such an exciting wine region? When I first visited in 1988, the state had about 46 hectares under vine, and now it’s approaching 3000 – staggering growth. And there are still so many nuances in style and quality yet to be discovered here. Arras focuses purely on sparkling wine. How much does Champagne’s dominance influence the field? We’ve always aimed to make world-class sparkling wine, so I think the comparison to Champagne is inevitable… but they’re fundamentally and stylistically different. Our focus is Tasmanian terroir with traditional sparkling cultivars, because we believe that they age into the styles that we’ve been pursuing: classic varieties with a lot of age built into them. What are your thoughts on the rest of the global sparkling scene? It’s great to…

THE FOURTH COURSE OF ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL’S new five-course beef tasting menu is, to me, the winner. It’s a heart-shaped wedge of full-blood David Blackmore MB9+ wagyu rump cap, seared to blushing perfection and served with a selection of South American-style accompaniments – a fried arepa, beans, piquant aji and hogao sauces – that reflect executive chef Santiago Aristizabal’s Colombian heritage. It’s actually the sixth way I’ve been served cow during this meal – the first course began with two different snacks made of Blackmore’s famous Mishima beef, and course four included a duo of scotch fillet and spinalis from Tasmania’s Cape Grim. Yet somehow I’m not all meated out. These days I, along with what feels like most of the country, can’t get enough of good, old-fashioned meat.…

SUPERNORMAL FEELS VERY “Brisbane”, despite its Melbourne origins. The hot-property views and river breeze aren’t the only things that help ground the sequel to Andrew McConnell’s energetic Asian restaurant in its place. There’s also the emphasis on locally grown food. “It was important to retain a connection to the original Supernormal concept,” explains executive chef Jason Barratt, “but our focus on Queensland produce is the biggest difference. The climate up here is so vastly different, and that translates to the dishes.” Certain staples – including a famous lobster roll – show up at both restaurants. Beyond those, the dishes on the Brisbane menu – developed by Barratt and McConnell in close weekly collaboration – share a taste of the subtropics, leaning towards seafood that feels purpose-made for alfresco summer dining:…

I’M NO SNACK PROPHET. I’M NOT trying to turn water into wine, I just like this ritual of snacking and sipping in tandem. And I like you, because you like dips, chips and drinks. That’s why you’re here, right? So, pull up a pew (or stool, or floor cushion) and let’s hang. We’re not at a wine bar with all the etiquette and arancini. We’re at home, and constricting denim is optional. It is looser, lazier and louder. Plus, you can lick your fingers with even more abandon. We’re happy to be here. This book is split into five cravings: salt, spice and smoke, zest and tang, cheese and sweets. Stick with one, or blend and shake. How lush and plush you want to go with these snacks is up…

1 Etincelle de Cartier earrings, $14,100, Cartier. 2 Prada Eyewear Collection sunglasses, $695, Prada. 3 Chain belt with Interlocking G charm, $1760, Gucci. 4 Guerlain Terracotta Blush in Light Nude, $82, David Jones. 5 and 6 Corbett vest, $600, and Corbett pant, $450, Camilla and Marc. 7 Horizon 55 in Monogram Macassar Canvas, $5450, Louis Vuitton. 8 Valentino Garavani Royal VLogo 65 leather mules in White, $1600, Mytheresa. 9 Octo Roma watch, $11,800, Bulgari. 10 Tom Ford Neroli Portofino Eau de Parfum, $584 for 100ml, David Jones. 11 Basket Weave linen shirt in Soft Pink, $1099, Ralph Lauren. MERCHANDISING LANA TELFORD.…

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Gourmet Traveller is a magazine that a lot of people have very strong feelings about. I know this to be true because, since the announcement that I’d be the title’s new editor, people have wasted no time telling me what the magazine means to them. I’ve been struck by how deeply people care about GT. Readers have told me about issues they’ve kept for decades, recipes that have become family staples, and long-running subscriptions that never lapse. One former staffer even recalled that the editor used to cook the cover dish for the team each month. I’m sure that’s an apocryphal tale but one I will happily meet each month by cooking the alternative cover, in this case rigatoni with squid, fennel and ’nduja (recipe on page…

Rainbow Chan’s dedication to revitalising her Weitou ancestral heritage through research into endangered language and matrilineal songs, is deeply inspirational. Her work illuminates cultural memory, diaspora, and identity in powerful, personally resonant ways. RAINBOW CHAN IS A VOCALIST, PRODUCER, multi-instrumentalist and visual artist whose work explores themes of diaspora and matrilineal histories. Over the past 15 years, she has become a defining and innovative voice in Australia’s electronic music scene. “When people meet me and see the other work I do they’re like, ‘Wait, aren’t you a pop singer?’” she laughs. “First and foremost, I’m a musician, but song is just one form of expression. My visual arts practice has really blossomed in recent years to include silk painting, textiles and calligraphy.” Born in Hong Kong, Chan moved to Australia…

“YOU HAVE TO TRY THE eggplant!” says everyone of the signature dish at Lee Ho Fook. A doppelganger of the celebrated Melbourne restaurant has just opened on Sydney’s Castlereagh Street, and on this visit, every table seems to have got the message. Plates of the stuff are flying out of the kitchen. The good folk of Melbourne might engage their pitchforks at any real criticism of one of their city’s most emblematic dishes, but I’d argue that there are better options on the Lee Ho Fook menu than these stickily sauced, battered veggie batons. To me, chef Victor Liong’s cooking shines brightest when the flavours are more distinct and packed with contrast. The pickled black fungi entrée is a fine example: I love the texture marriage of ruffled, crunchy-soft, ginger-pickled…

Australia’s latest sips, bars and beverage stars Why bubbles fit the bill for all occasions The ethos behind Tassie’s House of Arras How to mix yourself a Club Lonely UNCORKED For those who love bubbles (and honestly, who doesn’t) comes Sally Hillman’s debut book, Celebrating Champagne: A Wine for All Seasons (Hardie Grant, $80). With more than 40 seasonal pairings, timeless rituals and rich history, it’s a deep dive into Champagne as more than just a party starter. NEW CASA El Primo Sanchez, the Maybe Group’s lively Mexican bar, has bid farewell to Sydney’s Oxford Street and relocated to the former Four Pillars Laboratory site in Surry Hills. Officially unpacked, the renewed space has added finesse to their signatures – DJs, karaoke and tequila – while introducing sharper cocktails, Latin-inspired…

WE HAVE SAILORS TO THANK FOR THE UNION OF gin and citrus. Without their travels, these two ingredients, from very different parts of the world, might never have met. As the story goes, citrus was introduced as a key part of the British Navy’s diet in the 19th century, its vitamin C helping prevent scurvy. Adding sugar to juice was an easy way to preserve it for lengthy stints on the high seas, and so lime cordial came into being. Some of the officers preferred to mix theirs with gin, which eventually became known as The Gimlet. Where that name came from is up for debate. One theory is that it was borrowed from the name of a tapping tool used on spirit barrels. Another has it originating from a…

IS THERE A MORE CROWD-PLEASING FINISH TO A MEAL THAN A chocolate tart? An almost-holy trinity of sweetness, bitterness and nostalgia, this version adds texture and complexity with Sherry-soaked dates. “The fudginess of the date, bound with the raisin-y viscosity of the Pedro Ximénez, cuts into the richness of the decadent chocolate,” says chef Martin Benn. “They all complement each other, while letting each flavour sing.” The chocolate pastry in this recipe adds another layer of cocoa-led depth, while the sweetened cream, lightened with mascarpone, harmonises with each element. Adding it to your recipe rotation? “If you’re looking for a different accompaniment, try candied fried walnuts, or slow-roasted baby beets with vincotto or vinagre de Jerez,” says Benn. In a pinch, you can skip the mascarpone cream. “Good, old-fashioned clotted…

A brush with gold Object of desire 1 Large High Sided Wave bowl in White, $189, Polly Barton. 2 007 Mini Adjustable Brass Spot, $550, Transmitt. 3 Oliveri Essente Goose Neck Pull Out Mixer in Brushed Gold, $770, Harvey Norman. 4 Unique Travertine in Cream Vein Cut Naturale, POA, Di Lorenzo Tiles. 5 Ohelu Single Kitchen Sink 380mm in Brushed Brass, $685, ABI Interiors. 6 Form Studies tall vase in Cream, $109, West Elm. 7 BAR Stool Inoda + Sveje, 2018 in Waxed Walnut, $3500, Great Dane Furniture. 8 Classic Timber in Walnut panel, $245 per panel, Luxpanels. 9 Adios Sabata (1970) original movie poster, $49, Movie Posters Australia. PHOTOGRAPHY LILLIE THOMPSON., PHOTOGRAPHY LILLIE THOMPSON. MERCHANDISING SAM YATES.…

Radar-worthy restaurant openings New life for Sydney grande dame Breakfast gets the chef treatment Explore the world by private jet Restaurant news THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND AUSTRALIA Bistros reinventing Australiana, Japanese-inspired openings, and glossy spots doing European classics to add to your dining itineraries. EDITED BY GEORGIA CONDON SYDNEY The first project from a trio of respected names in hospitality, South End is a neighbourhood bistro in a cute corner site on Newtown’s King Street. In the kitchen, former Fred’s head chef Hussein Sarhan is joined by Alex Tong (Ester and Hong Kong’s Belon and Ho Lee Fook), serving a highly seasonal menu that puts flavour first. “We want to be the local everyone wants as their local,” says Tong. “There for an easy meal at the…

Yarra Valley Bloody Shiraz Gin salmon caviar This first-harvest Atlantic salmon roe takes on fruity, aromatic notes thanks to Four Pillars gin steeped with shiraz grapes – and it’s good enough to eat by the spoonful. $27 for 25gm, yarravalleycaviar.com.au Aquna Gold Murray cod caviar Another layer of Aquna’s sustainably farmed, whole-fish philosophy, this Murray cod roe is cured in Murray River salt, which contributes to its festive Champagne hue. $75 for 50gm, simonjohnson.com Wild scampi caviar All-natural and thrillingly blue, scampi roe brings an intense burst of salinity. These extra-fine sapphire beads pair well with prawns and other crustaceans, and make a striking oyster accessory. $119 for 25gm, shop.clammsonline.com.au Fish in the Family Alaskan ocean trout caviar The malossol method applied to this roe uses less salt, letting its…

THE LATEST OUTING FROM the Conferre Group (Tipo 00, Osteria Ilaria, Figlia, Grana) marks a departure from the Italian script written in their other four ventures. The new kid, Harriot, takes a more pan-European path, both in its warm-toned, classic bistro good looks and with chef James Kelly’s elegant cooking that centres classic French technique and fastidiously sourced produce. The combination creates a thoroughly appealing sweet spot where the familiar meets the fresh. At the base of an office tower in the CBD’s west end, masked from the street by sheer half curtains, Harriot’s earth-toned dining room mixes harlequin tiles, dressed tables, ergonomic banquettes, timber panelling and flattering lighting, bringing a relaxed feeling of being transported to a more convivial world. Ably assisted by smooth service and an expansive, Euro-leaning…

BACK IN MY EARLY DAYS WORKING AS A sommelier, there was always a rush of excitement around the restaurant floor when the first pop of a cork rang out. It’s a sound that belongs to moments of anticipation. But to me, sparkling is more than a celebratory wine – it’s my everyday wine, whether I’m relaxing on the couch with a juicy burger or telling stories late at night in a moody wine bar. It’s what I gravitate to first on any wine list, the one I collect and cellar, the local product I seek out when travelling across the world – and the sheer range of styles means there’s always something new to discover. Champagne remains the benchmark for many. Its name alone conjures a sense of luxury, but…

OF ALL THE BEAUTIFUL UNKNOWNS OF OUR world, the night sky remains one of the biggest mysteries. It has inspired poetry and mythology. Explorers have used it to guide their way home. Nations continue to vie to be the first to navigate its outer reaches. For a few years, travel trend forecasters focused on a handful of billionaires attempting to make space flight an option for regular humans. It turns out trends don’t need to be so extreme. One estimate suggests dark sky tourism will be worth US$400 million globally by 2030, representing a 10 per cent growth each year. Closer to home, 89 per cent of visitors to Western Australia showed an interest in travelling to stargaze. Ground zero for dark sky tourism is Tucson, Arizona. In 1972, it…

Easy, delicous midweek meals to share Martin Benn’s chocolate tart masterclass Vibrant greens for breezy spring dishes Supernormal Brisbane’s banquet menu Pea and feta dip with heirloom crudités V SERVES 4-6 // PREP 15 MINS // COOK 4 MINS 300 gm frozen peas 1 unpeeled garlic clove ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 2 180gm tubs marinated Persian feta 50 gm finely grated parmesan 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling Charred sourdough baguette and baby nasturtiums (optional), to serve CRUDITÉS 1 bunch heirloom radishes, trimmed, halved and cut into wedges 1 bunch heirloom baby carrots, scrubbed, halved lengthways 100 gm blanched sugar snap peas, trimmed, strings removed, halved lengthways 150 gm baby cucumbers (qukes), halved lengthways 1 Cook peas, garlic and bicarbonate of soda in a saucepan of…

Sheep’s ricotta and crushed edamame crostini with pecorino and mint Raw spring vegetable salad with crisp tortilla and coriander oil Kingfish crudo with nectarine, passionfruit and Geraldton wax oil SERVES 4 AS A STARTER // PREP 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS COOLING) It’s hard to beat a plate of crudo to start a meal. The key is ultra-fresh fish – in this case, kingfish, thinly sliced and paired with golden nectarine. We’ve dressed it in a tangy passionfruit sauce and finished with a citrus-scented Geraldton wax oil for balance. 300 gm sashimi-grade kingfish, thinly sliced 1 small yellow nectarine, stone removed, thinly sliced ½ cucumber, seeds removed and finely diced Pepperberry sea salt, for seasoning 1-2 tbsp passionfruit pearls (see note) Baby nasturtium, for garnishing ALE AND FENNEL…

SINCE 2023, 103 AVENUE DES CHAMPS-Élysées has been shrouded under the world’s fanciest tarpaulin, made to resemble a huge, monogrammed trunk – that enduring symbol of luxury travel. Paris has always been the most chic city in the world, but next year it’s set to raise the bar again when the first Louis Vuitton hotel emerges from its cocoon. As a certain category of consumers chooses to chase experiences over products, the convergence of fashion and travel offers a chance to live leading maisons’ aesthetic, ethos and extravagance – even if the bags arrive with you, instead of leaving gift-wrapped. Some brands have settled in for the long haul, while others up the exclusivity with a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it philosophy. This year, Dolce & Gabbana had a poolside presence at San Domenico…

A FEW WEEKS AGO, I TOLD MY FRIEND Isabelle, a fabulous restaurant and hotel critic who has lived here in Barcelona for 15 years, about my “summer holiday” plans. I’d met a delightful small-scale winemaker, Lucy Chilvers, and I’d taken 10 days off during September to help her with the harvest in Penedès, Catalonia’s celebrated wine region. Isabelle rolled her eyes. “Leaving Barcelona at 6am, three days a week, to snip away at some bushes in the blistering sun, before lugging crates of grapes around a cellar, is not my idea of a holiday,” she said. (For reference, Isabelle’s next holiday involves taking her best friend, a famous American drag queen, to a luxurious resort in the Bahamas.) Happily, four weeks later, I stand by my holiday decision. Working a…

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With its 1950s pin-up curves and rich mascarpone complexion, the Smeg stand mixer became an instant icon when it launched in 2014. The new model – scheduled for release in early November – boasts an oomph upgrade from 800W to 1000W, along with new steady-mix system. The result? Even making the seismic shift from delicate whipping to intensive kneading won’t disrupt your pin-curls. Happily, the new incarnation stays true to its recognisable silhouette, complete with knobs, dials and mid-century lettering that could be straight out of The Jetsons. Smeg Retro Style Stand Mixer SMF05, $699, smeg.com/au WORDS CERI DAVID. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLIING MAXWELL ADEY.…