Innholdsfortegnelse for August - September 2021 i go!

In my neck of the woods, you don’t complain about rain. I’m guessing it’s not that different for go! readers no matter where they live. One of the first questions our writers learn to ask when they call someone in the country is, “Has it rained there yet?” Rain is what you pray for, not something to be wished away. That being said, a good, cold, wet winter like the one the Boland is experiencing this year does complicate matters if the four walls start pressing in and you need to escape into nature. You know what a perfect sunny day is called in the middle of a Cape winter? Yes – Monday! Every now and then, when the stars align, a windless and sunny window of opportunity opens over…

2 South Africa is the only country in the world with a street that was home to not one, but two recipients of the Nobel Peace Prize. Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu both lived in Vilakazi Street in Soweto. 3 Our total number of Rugby World Cup triumphs, tied with New Zealand as the country with the most wins. Our years of glory were 1995, 2007 and 2019. 10 The number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites within our borders, ranging from cultural to natural. Some of them include Robben Island, The Cradle of Humankind and the Vredefort Dome. Visit unesco.org to see the full list. 11 We have the third-most official languages in the world, after India (22) and Zimbabwe (16). They are: isiZulu, isiXhosa, Afrikaans, Sepedi, Setswana, English,…

You probably have a small guidebook called Signs of the Wild on your bookshelf, right? First published in 1981, this legendary book by Clive Walker has been reprinted 17 times and has opened many a South African’s eyes to the wonderful wildlife within our borders. Clive (85), his son Anton (52), and Anton’s wife René (52) are sitting in the restaurant area of the Waterberg Living Museum, 25km east of Vaalwater, Limpopo. The museum consists of six different exhibits housed in separate buildings. To get to each building, you have to walk through the veld. Our conversation is interrupted by some horses that come to look at us, and later I’ll be introduced to the small herd of roan antelope on the property. This is still the Waterberg, and it’s…

What is your book about? I spent seven years travelling the coastline. This guide covers the entire West Coast – the southern part from Melkbos to Lambert’s Bay, and the Diamond Coast up north, from Doringbaai to Alexander Bay. The focus is on the history and natural history of the various coastal towns, national parks and nature reserves, with a sprinkling of local folklore and some famous West Coast characters and personalities, such as Pieter-Dirk Uys and the late Pieter Pieterse, as well as other people hitherto unknown. I also cover some inland towns like Darling, Aurora, Redelinghuys, Vredendal and Lutzville. What makes the West Coast special? It’s not just a geographical region, it’s an experience of its own, almost a way of life. Rubbing shoulders with the locals and…

Audrey Lategan, Hondeklip Bay “Don’t miss out on Hondeklip Bay. The town is unique and tranquil. It’s a privilege to be this close to the ocean.” Serene and Lottie van Wyk, Wolwepoort and Blouklippe farms “Don’t just focus on the fields of daisies. Walk the hiking trails and look at all the different kinds of wildflowers. Explore the lesser-known parts of the park.” Ray and Linda Castelyn, Soebatsfontein “You have to get out of your car to really appreciate the flowers. Talk to the locals to find out where the best flower spots are because they change from year to year. There are other scenic things in the area, like the road to Riethuis. We’ve seen herds of 40 – 50 gemsbok there. And also go see the Spoeg River…

PIERRE JORDAAN Canon EOS 7D Canon EF 200 – 400 mm lens with a 1.4x converter PIERRE WRITES: I retired in March this year. My wife Christa and I bought a Nayela Okapi off-road caravan to tour the country. Our first destination was the Kruger Park, where we spent nearly a month. It was great fun to read the new go! Kruger guide while we were there. Christa was behind the wheel one day as we drove from Pretoriuskop to the Afsaal picnic site. I noticed vultures in the sky from afar and we decided to drive towards Malelane to see what was going on. We had just passed Afsaal when a herd of impala crossed the road – suddenly a leopard caught an impala right in front of us!…

Peter and Beverly Pickford lead an enviable life: The acclaimed wildlife photographers have spent decades exploring the most spectacular places on Planet Earth, and when they’re not bouncing through the Kaokoveld in their Land Rover or scudding across the Arctic Ocean in a Zodiac, they live immersed in nature in a private reserve on the West Coast that they established. Their latest coffee table book, Wild Land, documents a four-year journey across seven continents, as the conservationists sought out some of the last wild places in a bid to help preserve their fragile beauty. “It’s a sense that comes to you from beyond your senses,” says Peter, describing the feeling of being in a place so utterly devoid of humankind. “It seeps through your skin.” HOW? Nikon D4, Nikkor 200…

HOUTEMA RIVER CABINS, KOGELBERG I often visit the spectacular Kogelberg Nature Reserve between Betty’s Bay and Kleinmond with my family, and we’ve driven past the Houtema River Cabins on the banks of the Palmiet River many times on our way into the reserve. I kept a close eye on the construction of these two eco-friendly units on private land and googled them as soon as the sign went up. But it was too pricey and my husband objected to the lack of a real braai – there’s only a gas braai because the risk of fire is so high in the area. We could save up, but what is a weekend away without crackling flames? So instead, we always camped at the Palmiet Caravan Park in Kleinmond. After another few…

LEND ME YOUR EARS In the previous issue, you found me scratching mosquito bites and staring desperately into the canopy of a Mozambican forest. And then almost coming to blows with a birding buddy because he’d glimpsed a rare cuckoo while I could tick only 70 different species of leaves. This time, I’m on my knees in front of a bush in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. My quarry is a thrush nightingale. The first time you hear a nightingale, your life changes forever. That sound has to be one of nature’s crowning achievements, and has inspired poets and artists for centuries. If I were on my deathbed with five minutes to live, I would ask the nurse to go to the birdcall website xeno-canto. org and play me a nightingale…

“I’m 16 years old and an avid photographer. I use every possible opportunity to take photos. My mom Estellè and dad Leon also love nature and help me a lot. “It’s a privilege to live in Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate, where there are animals like warthog, zebra, kudu, impala and waterbuck. At night you can see porcupines, civets, bushbabies and jackals – sometimes even hyenas and leopards. “The Kruger Park is close by and we visit often. Some of my friends also live in private Big Five reserves, which offer great photo opportunities.”…

How did you land up in Canada? My sister’s a Canadian citizen – she ended up here 17 years ago after working all over the world. I visited her twice and enjoyed it very much, so I decided to join her in Toronto. I have a home base to travel from before I decide where I want to settle. It’s a huge country so it will take a while. What took the most getting used to in your new home? Driving on the right! And everything else… Ontario was in hard lockdown when I arrived. I was tracked by an app and had to check in every day. The authorities were so efficient, it was a little unnerving. Pumping my own petrol was also a fun experience. And then there’s…

Make a splash in these gummies! Liz Payne and Cally van Blerk are Durban-based entrepreneurs who’ve made it clear that living an outdoorsy life can also be glamorous. Since launching their business, Silver Lining Gumboots, at the Splashy Fen music festival in 2019, their gumboots have taken off and become an international hit, gaining traction in markets as far away as New Zealand. These eco-friendly boots are not the clunky sort you can buy at the local builder’s co-op. They’re made from automotive factory offcuts, which are turned into pellets and melted down to fit the stylish boots’mould. Each shoe is fitted with an orthopaedic instep and decorated with a beautiful leather detail. Practical, pretty and kind to the environment! The various styles have KZN-based names, like Shongweni, Howick (pictured),…

History of the Kgalagadi National Park by Koos Marais, self-published R200 (plus R100 courier) from kosiemarais@gmail.com Lions, red dunes and camel thorn trees are probably the first things that come to mind when you think of the Kgalagadi. But what about the history of this far-flung corner, now one of our most popular national parks? Marais starts his book when the inhospitable Kalahari was a last refuge for the Bushmen. The Basters were also early inhabitants, and Marais writes about the self-styled Mier Republic, founded by Dirk Vilander in about 1870. The Nama War (1904 – 1908) in adjacent German South West Africa spilled over into the Kgalagadi and a final key battle was fought between Simon Koper and his men, and a German force, somewhere in the vicinity of…

• A visit to the Baviaanskloof requires a 4x4, or at the very least a vehicle with a high ground clearance. If you enter via the west, you will be able to go down the Nuwekloof Pass in an ordinary sedan to access many of the farms, but the passes in the wilderness area are very challenging. After heavy rains, the road is often washed away in places, with deep drifts – contact the farmers beforehand to make sure you will be able to reach your destination. • Fill your tank in Patensie, Uniondale or Willowmore beforehand. • Bring your mountain bike – you can ride on most of the farms as well as the main road through the kloof. • There are no ATMs or card machines in the…

WHY? We publish a selection of reader pictures in every issue. Don’t be shy, haul out those shots you’ve been hoarding on your computer and send them to us! We like just about anything: wildlife, landscapes, portraits, holiday snaps or bugs in your garden. HOW? Send your photos to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za Submit only your three best shots each month. Don’t send files bigger than 4 MB – if we need a bigger version, we’ll ask for it. Give the name, surname, home town and contact number of the photographer. Also include info about where and how the shot was taken, and what equipment was used. If you manipulated your photo in any way, tell us what you did. THE FINE PRINT We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in…

Lamb chops with smoked paprika Makes 12 chops Preparation time 20 minutes, plus 30 minutes to marinate Cooking time about 12 minutes You need • 12 lamb chops (loin or rib) • 1 – 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 tablespoon tomato paste • fresh lemon juice, to taste For the rub • 1 tablespoon cumin seeds • 1 tablespoon coriander seeds • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika • 1 teaspoon mustard powder • 2 teaspoons brown sugar • pinch of ground allspice • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 1 tablespoon sea salt flakes Here’s how 1 For the rub: Roast the cumin and coriander seeds in a dry pan for 2 minutes or until flavoursome. Crush the seeds and add to the rest of the rub ingredients. 2 Mix the rub with the olive oil and tomato paste. Spread the…

Our northern Botswana tour begins at the community-based Khama Rhino Sanctuary in central Botswana, where we spend our first night before moving on to the spectacular Kubu Island, a granite rock outcrop on the Makgadikgadi Pans, for a night under the stars. The next morning, after enjoying coffee and rusks against the backdrop of the iconic baobabs, we head north along the edge of the empty salt pans, testing our 4x4 driving on the sandy terrain. We have a light picnic lunch en route to our next campsite. We spend two days on the banks of the Boteti River, 30 km from Maun. There will be an opportunity to do a flight over the Okavango Delta (own expense), explore the local markets or simply chill in camp before a late…

We all know that spending time in nature is a balm for stress and, for me at least, nowhere is quite as tranquil and magical as a forest. One of my favourites is the Karkloof Forest, a patch of mist-belt loveliness about 20 km north of Howick in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. Mist-belt forests are generally found on the cooler, southern-facing slopes of hillsides throughout the Midlands, and are a wonderland for bird-, tree-and nature-lovers alike. Our hike begins close to the Karkloof Canopy Tour office. The start of the trail is marked by an actual “green door”, which serves as your metaphoric portal into the forest world. There are a handful of trails to choose from, all of which begin here and are clearly marked on a board. As you…

How did it get its name? A French botanist (plant expert) called Antoine Laurent de Jussieu gave these plants the family name Proteaceae. He was inspired by the Greek god Proteus, who was like a shapeshifter: He could take on many different appearances, much like our proteas. Did you know? • Proteas mostly grow on mountain slopes in the Western Cape, Southern Cape and Eastern Cape, among other fynbos. • The Proteaceae family has been on earth for 140 million years. Dinosaurs might have eaten proteas! • Veld fires are good for proteas. Their seeds lie dormant underground and wait until a fire sweeps through the fynbos. The heat of the fire helps the seeds to germinate (put out shoots). • The protea is also called the sugarbush, because the…

It was late October 2018 when we left Bulgaria and entered Greece at the Makaza-Nymphaea border post. “Kalimera, where are you going?” asked the customs agent. “Good morning.”He checked the Carnet de Passage for Kukuza, our Hilux, and smiled. “Enjoy! Greece is the best!” We were looking forward to the next six weeks chasing the last rays of summer around Zeus’s backyard, on a fairly packed itinerary. As we dropped down the escarpment via the Makaza Pass, everything changed. Conifer forests were replaced by scrub bush. It got warmer. It even smelled different. We had a two-day, 1 000 km journey to Athens where we’d booked a service for Kukuza. Arriving there, we checked into our Airbnb in the arty suburb of Exarcheia and set out to explore the 3…

The late-afternoon Highveld thunderstorm was pretty spectacular, but now the walls of my Southern Sun hotel room are closing in on me. There has to be a bar or a stoep somewhere where I can read until dinnertime. The lift glides down without a sound, until a robotic voice announces, with a hint of surprise: “Ground… floor.” What do we have here? The foyer is filled with groups of guests, drinks in hand, helping themselves to food platters. Am I gate-crashing a private function? But then a waiter offers me a glass of red wine. Pre-dinner drinks for everyone, it seems. The atmosphere is a mix of the feigned nonchalance of a high school reunion, and the melancholy of tea and cake in a church hall after a funeral. There’s…

Königsberg, a peak on Brandberg, is Namibia’s highest point at 2 573 m. This photo was taken near the summit and shows some of the unique plants found in the microclimate caused by higher rainfall and moisture that drifts in from the nearby Atlantic Ocean. The big trees with bright green leaves in the foreground are cobas trees. Other prominent plants on the mountain include quiver tree, mopane aloe, Brandberg thorn tree, phantom tree, Damara bottlebrush and wild pear – the big tree with the dark trunk in the background. Want to climb Brandberg? Read Toast’s article in the 2021 go! Namibia guide, available in shops or from our online shop winkel.weg.co.za…

Eland central I recently did a solo expedition to Rietvlei Nature Reserve. It’s my favourite reserve in Pretoria, and I think it’s one of the best places in the country to see and photograph eland because they’re common in the reserve and the landscape is open. I came across a big herd near Marais Dam early in the morning and I followed them around for about an hour as they grazed. The sun cast a golden glow over everything – it was idyllic! LEIGHTON FERREIRA, Pretoria Odd one out Sunset Dam near Lower Sabie in the Kruger Park always produces some form of photographic opportunity, especially if you get a good spot in your car along the water’s edge. On this day, I couldn’t resist this shot of a long…

We have accurate distribution maps for all snakes that occur in South Africa. These are used in field guides and scientific publications, and they tell us where certain species are found naturally. So, when a farmer tells me there’s a green mamba on his farm in Kuruman, I can confidently tell him that what he’s seeing is more likely a male boomslang. Green mambas are only found along the KZN coast, close to the sea. However, from time to time, snakes do pop up in areas where they should not occur. It might be that their presence in a particular area was initially overlooked by scientists, like the black mamba in parts of the Northern Cape, but the most likely explanation is that these snakes are hitchhikers who have been…

Innosense by Duncan Marcel Souchon $9 from amazon.com Capetonian Duncan Marcel Souchon collaborated with his pal Daniel Eppel on this soothing record, but he also brought in legendary musicians like Tony Cedras on piano and trumpet, and Steve Newman on acoustic guitar. The result is a mesmerising 41 minutes of largely guitar-driven instrumental music, which you can listen to over and over again. Rich and textured, it will do for background music while something delicious is roasting in the Weber, or as a soundtrack to a road trip through a landscape that calls for a bit of aural supplementation, like the Tankwa Karoo or the Wild Coast. My favourite tracks are the moving “The Work of Reconciliation”, the jollier “Barrydale”, and “Waiting for Rain on the Highveld”. If you’re three…

BLOUBERG NATURE RESERVE There are four camps: Molope (camping), Modumele (exclusive campsite), Tamboti (safari tents) and Mashatu (chalets). Only Mashatu has electricity. Bring all your own food, supplies and firewood (Vivo, the closest town, has a good butchery and a well-stocked SaveMor). Mashatu and Tamboti are equipped for self-catering. The roads in the reserve are sandy in general and rocky in places – bring your bakkie. Rates: Camping at Molope R270 per night for the first two people, plus R90 per extra person (max six per stand). Modumele is a wilderness camp booked out to one group exclusively (max 10 people). Bring your own drinking and washing water. It costs R340 per night for the first two people, plus R120 per extra person. Tamboti is also booked out to one…

FUJIFILM X›S10 Fujifilm has been one of the market leaders in mirrorless camera technology for a while now. They’ve regularly released new models, and their lens line-up is expanding by the year. The new Fujifilm X-S10 is suitable for photographers who have used a D-SLR-type camera before but want to switch over to mirrorless without losing the “feel” of a D-SLR. It has a good hand grip, and the buttons and controls resemble those of a D-SLR, so it’s a good camera for serious amateurs. What do I get? No one will complain about the 26.1-megapixel sensor and 4K video capability. The built-in image stabilisation (called “5-Axis Sensor-Shift Stabilisation”) will keep your photos and video sharp, even if you’re three coffees down and feeling a bit jittery. The electronic viewfinder…

For Women MERRELL BELAY HIKING LONGS This American company is better known for its hiking shoes, but the rest of its outdoor gear is nothing to sneeze at. The Belay is perfect for a hike in late autumn or winter, when you need pants that are warm and water-wicking. The cut is such that it fits under your backpack, which reduces chafing. The stitching is first-class, and there are small details that differentiate a great pair of hiking pants from an average pair: These include high-quality zips that close both side pockets as well as the one thigh pocket, and just enough elastic in the waistband to ensure a comfortable fit. These are excellent pants at the price. R499 merrell.co.za HI-TEC HIKING LONGS These are lightweight, easy-peasy pants that…

On this route you’ll witness amazing wildlife and unspoiled landscapes, but also drive stunning mountain passes, discover hidden natural wonders and explore historical countryside villages. You start this Bhejane Adventure at a campsite near Kenton-on-Sea, where you can fall asleep to the sound of the crashing waves. We then leave the coast behind to explore Addo Elephant National Park, including the lesser-visited southern and northern sections. Next we venture west, travelling through parts of the Karoo until we reach the western entrance to the Baviaanskloof. We drive east through this wild kloof, over river crossings and epic mountain passes, until we exit the wilderness area. From Patensie, we follow the Gamtoos River all the way to the ocean. Join us as we visit the world of elephants, traverse the valley…

THE TORTOISE AND THE MONGOOSE I live in Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate near the Kruger Park. The estate is a conservation area and wild animals roam freely among the houses. On 18 March 2021, I heard something outside and took my Canon PowerShot SX50 camera to investigate. At first, I only noticed a Speke’s hinge-back tortoise 1 – quite rare in the area. I walked closer to take photos. A family of about five dwarf mongooses arrived. Maybe I’d heard them earlier – they make squeaky sounds. They were very curious and watched me. Some even ventured closer until they were only a metre away. 2 They’re inquisitive by nature but will scatter if you make any sudden moves. Then they noticed the tortoise and forgot all about me. 3 The…