Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2014 i go!

It’s my puddle! We have friends in Maun, Botswana, who always insist that we visit them, but until recently the driving distance from KZN has been too daunting. However, after more persuasion and a few go! magazines, my parents bought into the idea. We’d planned to visit Moremi, but when we arrived in Maun at the height of the wet season, we realised this would be impossible – the reserve was a swamp and only 4x4s were allowed through the gate. So we decided to visit a concession area bordering Moremi instead, where there were no vehicle restrictions. Still, we were warned there might be “a puddle or two”… Those puddles proved to be quite a challenge for our two-wheel-drive bakkie (see inset photo), but we…

Matjiesfontein Road, Northern Cape August and September is flower season, and not just at the well-known spots along the West Coast and in Namaqualand. Photographer Jac Kritzinger shot this image of a field of daisies on the Matjiesfontein dirt road south of Nieuwoudtville. Between the farms Matjiesfontein and Boereplaas next door (both owned by the Van Wyks), you can explore a 6 000 ha area on foot that explodes with colour during spring (day visitors R20 per person). Book beforehand and you can go on a tractor ride (R80 per person; minimum 14 people) or drive a 4x4 trail (R250 per vehicle). The Bokkeveld Plateau is known for its geophytes, or bulbous plants – there are more species here per square metre than anywhere else in the world. Look for…

FedbytheOrangeRiver. Closest town: Gariepdam FedbytheOrangeRiver. Closest town: Vanderkloof FedbytheNuwejaarspruit Closest town: Harrismith FedbytheVaalRiver. Closest town: Deneysville/Oranjeville FedbythePhongoloRiver. Closest town: Pongola FedbytheVaalRiver. Closest town: Bloemhof FedbytheRiviersonderendRiver. Closest town: Villiersdorp FedbytheSmalblaarand Holsloot rivers. Closest town: Worcester FedbytheAssegaaiRiver. Closest town: Piet Retief FedbytheTugelaRiver. Closest town: Bergville…

Hyenas on the hunt The Lion King didn’t do much for the spotted hyena’s reputation. Most people think of them as dirty, cowardly creatures. In truth, spotted hyenas are just one below lions on the food chain – and above most other animals. Yes, they will steal kills from other predators, but many people don’t realise that hyenas are also highly efficient hunters. You’d think that only the weak and small fall prey to hyenas, but it’s the same story for most predators – even a lion would rather take down a small zebra than an adult buffalo. In Kenya’s Masai Mara, I once witnessed an incredible chase where a single hyena outran a seemingly healthy adult wildebeest. In the nearby Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, it has also been recorded…

WHO FIRED THE CANNON?  The cannon on Kanonkop was probably used during the second British occupation of the Cape (1806 – 1814) to alert the naval base in Simon’s Town when a ship entered False Bay. If you visit Cape Town for a holiday, chances are you’ll end up at Cape Point. You can take a stunning selfie at the lighthouse, which feels like it’s at the end of the world, and you don’t even have to get your tyres dusty – a tar road will deliver you right to the point. But there’s more to the Cape of Good Hope section of Table Mountain National Park than that selfie. The reserve has plains of fynbos, koppies to climb and empty beaches to walk along. The two-day Cape of Good…

In Heart of Darkness, Joseph Conrad’s classic novel about colonial Africa, he describes the Congo River as “an immense snake uncoiled, with its head in the sea, its body at rest curving afar over a vast country, and its tail lost in the depths of the land”. Nothing much has changed since 1899 when Conrad penned those words. The Congo is still an impressive mass of water and it still has an allure of unspoilt wilderness, and of mystery. But getting onto the river will test your patience. I tried to make arrangements by e-mail months prior to our journey, but the answer was always the same: “Come to Kisangani and we’ll see what we can do.” A river cruise from Kisangani to Kinshasa is special for two reasons: It’s…

What are they? Gloves with special pads on the end of the thumb and forefinger, which allow you to use your touchscreen device without having to take the gloves off. How? Apparently touchscreens operate by conducting electricity through your fingers. Normal gloves break this circuit, but the pads on the Smart Touch are conductive. Shocking! Are they worth it? Hell yeah. They don’t cost much more than normal gloves and they offer a lot more. Apparently the touchscreen pads will wear out eventually, but if you look after them this should take a while. They’re also quite thin, as gloves go, so your hands won’t get too hot. R170 at Capestorm capestorm.co.za – Nick Dall…

Blaauwberg Nature Reserve, Cape Town Blaauwberg, just north of Cape Town, is more of a hill than a mountain but it has managed to play quite a role in our country’s history. When Jan Willem Janssens, the last Dutch governor of the Cape, looked out over the sea on the morning of 4 January 1806, he was greeted by the sight of a whole fleet of British ships on the horizon. Janssens must have known that his troops wouldn’t stand a chance, but he still sent a few thousand men down to the beach. Scouts on top of Blaauwberg tracked the movement of the British forces and four days later, a clash broke out on the plain east of the hill. The British soldiers overpowered Janssens’ men with ease and…

On our way back from a trip along the Diamond Coast in southern Namibia, we spent the night at Hammerstein Lodge about 65km from Sesriem. We pitched our tents under a tree near the fence, watched by a lone zebra. When we booked in, the owners warned us that there was a free-roaming cheetah in the area. They told us that if the cheetah visited our campsite, we should remain calm and quiet and she would leave us alone. We stayed a few days and didn’t see her – we eventually gave up hope of encountering the cat. But lo and behold, on our last day, while we were having a cup of coffee, the cheetah casually strolled up and climbed onto our table! I was a little frightened (which…

The hardest part of any Voetspore tour is to get the logistics right: fuel, airtime, local currency and food. On the Congo River, food proved to be a problem. We had to wait for 18 days in Kisangani for a boat and we spent another 28 days on the river before we reached Kinshasa – and we’d only packed enough food for two weeks! On deck, though, there were a few hundred other people who also had to survive. As the boat made its way down the river, villagers living along the banks paddled up in pirogues to sell their wares. Most of the food items were unusual to our mzungu palates: roasted monkey and crocodile, worms, snakes, smoked bats, cane rats… We mostly stayed away from bush meat, but…

Dubbin those boots A new two-day trail has opened at Forever Resorts Loskopdam near Middelburg. The 20 km Silver Falls Trail takes you to quite a few waterfalls, but the real bonus is that you sleep in one of the resort’s chalets – no need for a sleeping bag and an inflatable pillow. How much? The hike costs R320 per person (no children under 10) and you need to stay at the resort for a minimum of two nights. More info: 013 262 3075; loskopres@foreversa.co.za Half-price Elgin break Until the end of September, you can stay in one of the funky Airstream trailers at Old Mac Daddy in Elgin for a mere R550 for two adults (R175 per child under 16) – that’s a saving of more than 50 %!…

Ryan Sandes The ultra-marathon legend wants to run on the Moon… Most recent break? I went to the Breede River in December last year with my fiancée and our four-legged child. There was no cellphone reception and it was wonderful. Bush, mountain, sea or desert? Sea with a bit of mountain. I grew up on the beach and I feel right at home there, but over the past few years I’ve developed a love for the mountains. Bargain destination? The Wild Coast has some epic locations right on the beach and it’s still dirt cheap to stay there. South Africa has so many hidden gems you just have to get out there and explore. Internationally, Thailand is always a great budget option. Favourite holiday spot? The Knysna and Plett area.…

Ebenhart’s, Calitzdorp If you’re a pipe smoker, or if you have one in your family, chances are you would have heard of Ebenhart Botha. Ebenhart’s handcrafted pipes are sought after all over the world and Calitzdorp, about 50 km west of Oudtshoorn, is where he plies his trade. Visit his shop when you drive through town along Route 62 and admire his fine craftmanship. On site, there’s also a restaurant, coffee shop and beer garden. Rest a while and have a bite to eat before you continue your road trip through the Little Karoo. Where? Main street, Calitzdorp GPS: S33.53010 E21.68849 Contact: 044 213 3569; ebenharts.co.za…

Fresh water was the main reason the Dutch East India Company established a maritime replenishment station on the south-western tip of Africa. Initially, the colony was supplied by the Varsche River, which rises on Table Mountain, and by a few reservoirs that can still be seen in Oranjezicht. An irrigation ditch ferried water to the harbour. But in the 1800s, when Cape Town started expanding rapidly, the city council started thinking of ways to get the water from the top of Table Mountain down to the settlement. The 700 m Woodhead Tunnel (named after Mayor John Woodhead) was excavated between 1887 and 1891 from Disa Gorge on the Back Table to Slangolie Ravine above Camps Bay. A pipeline – where the Pipe Track contour path is now – was built…

Nissan Juke The Juke’s styling might not be to everyone’s taste, but it has proved to be a popular vehicle and the range has expanded since it was introduced in 2011. There are a few petrol and diesel models available, with four-wheel drive optional. The Juke seats four but luggage space might be an issue. Under the bonnet: The 1,6-litre turbo-charged petrol engine is quick on its feet in town. If you’ll be hitting the open road a lot, rather get the 1,5-litre turbo-diesel. The entry-level models have five-speed manual gearboxes; if you shell out a few bucks more you can add a sixth gear or get an automatic gearbox. There are also different driving modes to suit various conditions, like “Comfort” for your daily commute and “Sport” for a…

The South African countryside is littered with places that loudly broadcast their tourist attractions, which is fair enough. But it’s nice to drive into a place that just is. The Gamtoos Valley is such a place. This farming district doesn’t have anything obvious to offer tourists, it just does what it’s good at: producing a range of crops from tobacco to citrus. The villages in the valley are humble (the most prominent building in Patensie is the Agrimark), but their residents have big hearts. Some families have farmed here for generations, making a living even before the Kouga Dam was built and its resultant irrigation scheme was implemented. Kobus Kok, former farmer now a local guide, tells me how the farming practices in the valley have changed over the past…

8 – 10 AUGUST Ross Taylor Surf Contest, Buffelsbaai Not only will you get to see great surfers in action, all proceeds go to hospice. Sweet. Contact: 072 467 1665; rosstaylorsurfcontest.co.za 9 AUGUST Apiesdoring Carnival, Thabazimbi More meat than you’ll know what to do with. Stock up on steak and biltong for a year, then enter the competition to imitate the call of a hyena. Serious stuff! Where? Dutch Reformed church, Vliegepoort Contact: 083 507 0335 (Hennie van der Linde); apiesdoringkarnaval.co.za 21, 27 AUGUST Cape Winemakers Guild Auction Showcase, Cape town/Joburg Taste the wines that will be up for grabs at the Nedbank auction later this year. Where? Cape Town: CTICC; Joburg: Nedbank head office, Sandton Cost: R170 per person from webtickets.co.za Contact: 021…

MEET THE EXPERTS • François Haasbroek Our in-house map man explored the park for three weeks in 2013 while he was researching our new Kruger travel map (order one on page 41 ). • Andrea Weiss The former editor of go! compiled two go! Kruger special editions and pitched a tent in almost every campsite in the process. • Villiers Steyn The Hoedspruit-based freelance writer and photographer has visited the Kruger once a year since childhood. Five years ago he travelled through the park for 80 consecutive days! • Pietman Muller Pietman farms about 100 km from the Punda Maria Gate and has visited the park at least once a month for the past 30 years. We also asked these go! readers and regular Kruger visitors for their input: Abri Venter, Nardi van…

Most people think of hot air ballooning as a larney tourist activity: You float along in calm blue skies and pop the champagne when you touch down again. At least, that’s what the brochures usually promise! But at the SA National Hot Air Balloon Championship, things are different. During this four-day event, competitors are given various tasks as they strive to be crowned the best balloonist in the country. In 2014, after 15 years of being hosted in the Free State, the Championship was held at Vulintaba Country Estate outside Newcastle in KZN. Each team typically consists of a pilot, sometimes an assistant pilot and a ground crew to help get the balloon into the air and wrangle it to the ground again. A day at the SA champs starts…

Come a little closer... Gerald Scharlach Sony A200 Sony 300 mm lens GERALD WRITES: I took this photo in the Kruger Park just before sunset. The elephant family came to the Shingwedzi River for a drink. They slipped and slid down the steep bank one by one, kicking up dust. I positioned my vehicle to allow the branches to frame the picture. We had enough time to take lots of photos and to make a video of the scene. TOAST SAYS: Photos can unlock whole new worlds for the viewer. We receive hordes of elephant photos taken in the Kruger Park each month, but Gerald’s shot stands out because it hints at the mystical nature of these creatures. This is the kind of shot that makes you feel privileged to…

My ouma Lettie made meat› balls that were so good they made people cry. It’s true! My family still laughs about a particular afternoon years ago on the farm when she made her trademark dish. Everyone helped themselves to generous portions and sat down to eat. Halfway through lunch, one of her three sons, Andries, burst into tears. “What’s wrong?” Ouma asked. Andries was crying so hard he could barely get a word out. He just sat there and glared at his older brother, Boetie, who’d added another meatball to his plate. “You can have more,” Ouma said. But Andries wouldn’t stop crying. Eventually he calmed down enough to get a sentence out: “I’m full and I can’t eat any more,” he snivelled. “But Boetie can!” Ouma’s meatballs were indeed…

1 Underberg, KZN Underberg is the hub of the southern Drakensberg and the launch pad for Sani Pass (2 873 m), the highest drivable pass in South Africa. It’s also a pretty decent place to go looking for snow. Underberg itself is more than 1 500 m above sea level, and there’s always chance of a dusting in the wake of a big cold front. But if nothing has fallen in town, finish your cappuccino and go for a hike in one of the nearby nature reserves like Vergelegen, Garden Castle or Cobham. Or grit your teeth, engage low range and brave the bends up Sani Pass. Practical stuff. Don’t mess with the weather. If you’re hiking, take extra-warm clothes, a charged cellphone, rain gear and a good map. Don’t…

As soon as my friend Blackman and I were done with our post-grad degrees, we hit the road. Destination: Dwesa. Blackman’s once-white Golf was piled high with a mouldy canvas tent, three yellow ammo boxes, a prawn pump and too many cases of Black Label quarts. On the roof, two 14ft fishing rods whistled in the wind, while a selection of shorter rods poked out the back window. We broke the journey in Plett then pushed on to East London, where we bought bait and dry ice and taped the cool box closed. But further along the N2 the red thermometer icon on the dashboard lit up. We slowed down and limped into Mthatha. All I could think of was the pilchards and chokka that had probably already started to…