Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2021 i Getaway

If you picked up this magazine, youʼre likely to be an adventurer. A few decades ago such a person was typically involved in dangerous expeditions to inhospitable places. Today, the number of previously inaccessible places that can now be experienced by ʻeveryday folkʼ is legion. The wonderful thing about modern adventure is how accessible it is, especially in Southern Africa. People from all walks of life are catching on, often by taking part in adventure sports. A reasonable pair of running shoes become platforms to explore the environment as well as the limits of oneʼs abilities. Running is fundamental to our being. Even if you donʼt consider yourself a runner, a read of Chris McDougallʼs remarkable book Born to Run mightturnyouinto one (it certainly worked for me). Youʼll grasp how…

WINNING LETTER It’s a snake-eat-snake world I was in Arniston in mid-November last year, enjoying a spell of warm weather, and decided to walk over the Waenhuiskrans (wagon house cliff) and down to the beacon. On my way back, I noticed some snake spoor crossing the jeep track and cautiously followed them. The Arniston dunes host a large number of Cape cobras and puff adders, as well as southern adders. A few metres off the jeep track I came across a very confusing sight. It appeared to be a snake with no head and two tails! It quickly became clear that what I was looking at was a large cobra with a puff adder in its mouth which was slowly being swallowed. Fortunately, I had my camera with me and,…

As the warmer months descended late last year, and lost liberties returned, I felt that a midweek break from the burgeoning busyness of urban life into the bush would be the perfect treat. Pilanesberg Game Reserve was my choice. An easy two-hour drive from Joburg and I found myself in unusual terrain. The landscape here is particularly interesting as the reserve is contained in a series of spectacularly eroded circular rings formed by a long extinct volcano. The vegetation and topography is varied and you can go from craggy mountainous outcrops to open flat grasslands and then savannah thickets with overgrown trees in one drive. There is also a central lake that makes for wonderful game viewing. As the golden light rises over the water in the early morning it…

Up ahead, the gravel road to the Cederberg meanders into the afternoon haze, like an adder slithering lazily out of sight. This route option, entering the pristine wilderness area from the south, is by far my favourite, especially at dawn or dusk. Warm light dances off craggy cliff faces and gnarled rocks, enhancing the red and orange hues with a rich vibrancy. This journeyʼs a special one, for myriad reasons. Iʼm returning to one of my favourite stamping grounds – check. Our dinner companions will include explorer-humanitarian Kingsley Holgate, his son Ross and their crew, and no doubt an outflowing of fireside stories of their epic adventures – check. Iʼm behind the wheel of what surely has to be the most iconic off-road vehicle ever created, in its newly reimagined…

FINALIST Sand Lurker On a walk in the dunes of Namibia, our guide found this sidewinder (bitis peringueyi). It was amazing to see how well adapted this species is to the harsh environment. Unlike other snakes, sidewinders have eyes on top of their heads to enable them to bury themselves in sand with only their eyes exposed, ready to capture passing prey. By Helgardt Pretorius, Benoni, Gauteng Canon R5, Canon 100mm Macro, ISO: 800, f/5.6, 1/1000 sec FINALIST (FAR LEFT) Necking Entering Kruger National Park through the Crocodile Bridge Gate, we came across a tower of giraffes on the S28 towards Lower Sabie. One male and the other female (looking at the camera) were busy frolicking in the middle of the road, the male kept making moves, trying to be…

Do this Louvain Guest Farm has several activities on offer including bushmen painting and birdwatching tours, aromatherapy sessions and horse riding. Explore the Ox Wagon 4x4 Route on slick Silverback mountain bikes (hire at reception), hike up the hill behind the house for sundowners and be sure to request a microlight trip with Morne, from R500 pp for 20 minutes. louvain.co.za Learn about the secrets of the forests at the Forest Legends Museum at Diepwalle. It’s well maintained and free of charge. knysnamuseums. co.za Dalene Matthee surprised us with a flock of Knysna loeries flitting in the massive Outeniqua yellowwood above her memorial at Krisjan-se-Nek (on the Bibby’s Hoek Road from Rheenendal). dalenematthee.co.za Stay Here HISTORICAL HOPE VILLA is cosy and quaint, and a stone’s throw from the East Head…

Oorlogskloof, Namaqua West Coast Head to the rugged Northern Cape escarpment beyond the Cederberg and get ready for a true get-high tramp in Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve. This little-known wilderness area near Nieuwoudtville encompasses 52km of craggy hiking trails, making for mind-space running of the purest kind. When: April Where: Nieuwoudtville, Northern Cape Route & Distance: A gritty 42km run and scramble quantumadventures.co.za The Hobbit 100, Amatole Mountains This is the heart of Frontier Country, with Hogsback the perfect gateway into the Amatole foothills. Cape parrots and Narina trogons flit about within temperate indigenous forest that’ll remind you of Middle Earth as you take on the 100km Merrell Hobbit Trail Run. When: November Where: Hogsback, Eastern Cape Route & Distance: 60/100km, mostly forest singletrack and jeep track mountainrunner.co.za Sky Run, Lady…

You and your tribe could be in for an exclusive two-day escape to the Luxury Villa at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve on the Southern Cape Coast, beyond Hermanus. The design of the villa maximises the panoramic views over the ocean and fynbos surrounds, and is the perfect setting to create unforgettable memories. Youʼll enjoy personalised service from your own Grootbos gourmet chef, kitchen team and butler. Then head out into the reserve with a dedicated nature guide and 4×4 safari vehicle. Over the last 24 years, Grootbos has become known for creating distinctive experiences in the Cape Floral Kingdom and maritime environment of Walker Bay. The reserve has conservation and community development at its core and has won multiple awards for its work in the environment, local communities and hospitality.…

Lauren Dold KAROO CYCLING Usually Getawayʼs ʻKruger correspondentʼ, Lauren rarely ventures into the countryʼs interior but recently found herself whizzing through the Great Karoo on an e-bike, flocks of sheep fleeing before her. She is a non-cyclist who, after being cajoled into a cycling trip by her family, discovered the best way to explore the non-flat Karoo is by cycling every backroad, hill, and corrugation. Elise Kirsten MOUNTAIN BIKING A few scars, a chipped tooth and some stitches haven't been enough to prevent Elise from getting back on the (mountain) bike, which is where youʼll find her on most weekends, riding her favourite wine farm trails around her home in Durbanville or further afield. When sheʼs not cycling, she loves trying new things, from swimming with sharks in the open…

NORTHERN CAPE Papkuilsfontein mountain bike trails, Nieuwoudtville The sound of my tyres crunching over coarse sand filled my ears as I set out on one of Papkuilsfontein Farmʼs new trails on an unusually misty morning. The first set of mountain-bike trails on this farm, lying 20km outside Nieuwoudtville in the Northern Cape, officially opened in October 2020. The Ou-Muur, Duifieshoek, Arendsnes and Waterfall trails (which range from four to 21km long) aren't very technical but allow visitors to explore and cycle to the farmʼs canyon to enjoy the views. The second phase, scheduled to open in the first quarter this year, includes the technical Klipspringer trail (27km) and the less technical Son-Op trail (26km). A five-year drought in the area has made farming extremely challenging. As a result, farmer Jaco…

Adding flowers to your salad means you’re part of a tradition stretching back over 2 150 years. The Ancient Romans used calendula in their salads and feasted on meals containing violets and roses. Khoisan population distribution was largely dictated by the availability of watsonia which is common in fynbos and prolific after a fire. It is believed that watsonia corms (a kind of bulb wrapped in a fibrous husk) were a reliable source of food for hundreds of thousands of years. Called an uintjie inAfrikaans–a little onion – they have a nutty taste after being boiled or roasted. Dune spinach, also part of the fynbos kingdom and indigenous to the coastline of South Africa, is a greatly under-utilised wild vegetable that is being used in pilot projects for possible cultivation…

Husband and wife team Jan and Jay Roode have spent years in the African skies, photographing our continent from above. ʻWe had no idea what was out there but we embraced its unknown secrets with the enthusiasm of children on a treasure hunt,ʼ says Jay. The Roodes have captured a decade of aerial moments over South Africa, Namibia, Mozambique and Botswana, recording unique perspectives of both Africaʼs wildlife and people. Their newly published book, Aerial Art,isaculminationofthisextraordinary effort, resulting in an instantly recognisable collection of remarkable images. Sleeping under the wing of their plane, hitching rides on cargo trucks and donkey carts, Jan and Jay have had as many adventures on land as they have in the air. A fuel leak once forced them to land on a small island in…

The first prize • An extraordinary wildlife experience at Pafuri Luxury Tented Camp situated in the Makuleke Contract Park (northern Kruger National Park), located alongside the Luvuvhu River. The prize includes accommodation for two in one of Pafuri Camp’s luxury tents, all meals (breakfast, high tea and dinner) and two game drives per day, and is valued at R50 000. (More adventurous winners can book bushwalks in advance of their stay). The prize is valid up to 31 December 2021.* •Tamron 150-600mm G2 super-telezoom lens worth R22 395. • Parrot Anafi drone worth R12 995. • Plus a Luci Solar Inflatable base light worth R699. Second prize Worth R25 789 from Singer Photographic • Tamron 100-400mm zoom lens • Tamron 18-400mm zoom lens • Luci Pro Outdoor 2.0 Solar Lantern…

Do This Great Karoo Cycling offers five trails, varying in length, duration and difficulty. Autumn trails start in mid March and run until early June. Spring trails resume in mid September until the first week in December. Book well in advance to ensure availability. Generally trails begin on a Thursday, ending on the Monday or Tuesday, but the operator can tailor trails to suit specific requirements. The ideal number of cyclists is 8–12, up to a maximum of 14. Cost (for the Fish River Trail) is R9 000 pp sharing including all accommodation and meals (drinks are extra). Family groups of four or more, R8 000 pp. Alcoholic drinks are available from honesty bars at the various accommodation spots. Bike rental Great Karoo Cycling has six 29-inch mountain bikes for…

You tend to remember the exact moment when the impossible becomes possible. One such moment happened for me on 25 September, 2009 when – during the Southern Storm Adventure Race – the iconic five-day Otter Trail hiking route was first attempted as a single day run. Nearly 200 trail legends from across South Africa converged on the Garden Route for the event and, over a good few beers shared the preceding evening, predictions were bandied about as to what the quickest time for this technical, 42km off-road marathon could potentially be. The conclusion was that it would be ʻhumanly impossibleʼ to break the five-hour barrier. How wrong they were. Those were the heady days of off-road running in SA, and The Otter was soon labelled the ʻGrail of Trailʼ and…

The Dodo Trail, Mauritius Nothing epitomises a tropical island run quite like Mauritius’ annual Dodo Trail. This one-day ultra-event makes for an exceptional experience, with varying distances on offer. Technical terrain, unforgiving climbs and gnarly descents are sure to test you way beyond your wildest dreams, and we can guarantee that the 50km will feel way more like 80km once you’re done. This event has a strong international following. When: July Where: Traversing Mauritius from south to west Route and Distances: 10, 25 and 50km over the island’s highest peaks dodotrail.com.…

November 2017 in the drought-ravaged north of Namibia, the hides of dead animals were draped over bones like macabre tents. Sharp rocks crackled as we rolled, driving between the remains of two giraffe and about a dozen mountain zebra. It became clear, once we got out of the vehicle to investigate, that thirst had drawn the animals to what was once a stream. Desperation had coaxed them there; a genetic signal sending them on a misguided bearing, and on finding no water, without an ounce of strength left, they had succumbed here in this rocky gully, enveloped in a suffocating shroud of heat. The Land Rover we were travelling in was by contrast a kinetic island of shade and sustenance. We drove with the windows open, air-con being a luxury…

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It is by riding a BICYCLE that you learn the CONTOURS of a COUNTRY best ~ Ernest Hemingway ‘This is big sky country,' my dad pronounced as we skirted the Gariep Dam, heading south towards Steynsburg. Our destination was Mount Melsetter, the Southey family's farm in the north-eastern Groot Karoo. To be more specific, our destination was the Saddlebum Pub in the main house, where no doubt our friends and fellow cyclists would be waiting. My family hadnʼt visited Mount Melsetter since we were children. This is where, weʼve been told, my twin sister Sam stood up for the first time. (No one really remembers where I stood up, but Iʼm told it was just a few days later, somewhere unremarkable on our journey home.) It was also where, a…

‘The Kamoeties? I happen to know the family personally. In fact, they own a property just around the corner.' My boyfriend Matt and I had been sipping lukewarm coffee and weak tea, overlooking the Keurbooms River at Angieʼs G-spot (ʻgreat spotʼ) in De Vlugt when we were roped into a monologue-style conversation with the namesakeʼs husband, Harold. Angie was working her way through a box of cigarettes by the makeshift bar. I didnʼt have the heart, or the patience, to tell him that, while ʻKamoetieʼ was a popular surname in South Africa during the late 1800s, he couldnʼt possibly know Fielaʼs progeny personally. Dalene Mattheeʼs contemporary classic was inspired by real events,butthemainstorylineof Fiela se Kind (Fielaʼs Child) is a work of fiction. I couldnʼt blame him for mistaking the book…

Do It The Otter run alternates direction every year; the event hub is based at De Vasselot Campsite in Nature’s Valley. The Challenge Run has a cutoff of 9hrs, while the Race Run allows only 8hrs on the trail. A Prologue is run on the day before each event to establish seeding. The Otter 2021 will start at Storms River Rest Camp. Preferably find accommodation near the Event Hub at Nature’s Valley (sanparks.org), enabling easy access to registration, the Prologue, race briefing and post-event ceremonies. A shuttle transports participants from the event hub to the start of the race. Challenge: 6th & 7th October, R5 700 pp Race: 8th & 9th October, R5 700 pp Non-runners Foodie-licious: Tantalise your tastebuds at The Peppermill Café at The Crags (right at the…

Tips CONDUCT EXTENSIVE RESEARCH and ask advice from people who have had experience self-driving Kaokoland on popular overland forums such as 4x4community.co.za 4×4 VEHICLES ARE ESSENTIAL and ideally you should travel with at least two cars. IF YOU TRAVEL ALONE, take a satellite phone. YOUR VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE EQUIPPED with recovery gear, at least two spare tyres, a tyre-repair kit and compressor. Travel is on a variety of surfaces from sharp rock to deep sand, each of which needs its own pressure setting. YOU NEED TO BE SELF-SUFFICIENT with regards to food, water and petrol. The going is slow on many routes – in some cases, such as Van Zyl’s Pass, you can expect to travel just 50km in an entire day. STOCK UP ON FUEL, water and food…

Mhondoro Safari Lodge & Villa in the big five Welgevonden Game Reserve is now ready to welcome guests to their newly revamped luxury suites. This five-star, family-friendly lodge sleeps 24 and is less than a three-hour drive from Johannesburg. Mhondoro is known for unusual wildlife encounters and photographic opportunities provided by a ground-level game-viewing hide. Various new eco-friendly initiatives include a major solar-power installation which has taken the lodge off the grid. Special features include a custom-built ʻstar deckʼ with a telescope for stargazing and a spa with an outdoor deck and spa bath. Elephants regularly drop by to enjoy a salty drink from either of the two eco-friendly main swimming pools, and some suites have a private plunge pool, too. Mhondoro is synonymous with healthy, fine cuisine which –…

LIFE BEYOND HERMANUS A short stretch beyond the buzzing holiday town, Walker Bay and Grootbos Nature Reserve are a refreshing reprieve of relaxation or adventure in pristine nature (top). JOZINI DAM Tigers are reputed to be the ‘fightiest’ fish of all. Are you up for a bruising encounter (and plenty more besides) in northern KZN? ROAD TRIPPING IN ZIM Forget your preconceptions about the danger, and the difficulty of finding fuel. We do the Matopos via Kariba to Mana Pools – and more – in comfort and ease.…