Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2020 i Getaway

In a wildlife reserve that wonʼt be named at an undisclosed lodge whose employees will remain anonymous, there were no other guests except me. Somehow that night, festivities with the unburdened staff reached a point where it seemed a good idea to go for a swim. So we ran down to the river, cavorted, frolicked and dived with much splashing and tomfoolery. What made me shiver the next day, as I sipped a much-needed coffee overlooking the river, was seeing a large croc gliding past the very same spot. Some people need a bit of Dutch courage to get them going, others willingly throw themselves into potentially dangerous situations, and come out the other side transformed. Walking in the wild can do that. Riding wild rivers, too. Once you take…

The new Getaway - consensus is YOU LOVE IT My husband and I are itching to hit the road and explore our country again. Congratstothe Getaway team-the October issue looks great in its new, modern style and was an inspiration to start planning our next road trip. With so many magazines having closed recently, it was a real treat to physically page through a top-quality, glossy travel magazine again. Please keep up the good work, we look forward to reading the next issue! – Janie Van Der Spuy Congratulationstothe Getaway team for producing a great October issue during what, I would imagine, has been a really difficult time. – Neil Markovitz Suchgreatnewsthat Getaway hassurvived the Covid-19 media and travel bloodbath. For more than 30 years, this…

‘Life is just a bowl of cherries,ʼ sang Judy Garland in the fifties. That could mean itʼs sweet, sour or really hard in the centre. Where better to make up my mind than Ficksburg, cherry capital of the world – or so the locals would have you believe. The Cherry Festival, which has been running since 1967, is the oldest agricultural celebration in the country but sadly wonʼt be happening this year. It being my first time in the Eastern Free State, I was mesmerised by the golden-hued boulders which greeted me along the Maloti Route to the town where I hoped to pick the brains of the creative locals – and some cherries along the way. Natural beauty, SMALL TOWN CHARM, on Lesotho’s doortsep, with the GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL…

AFRICAMPS AT PAT BUSCH MOUNTAIN RESERVE is 15 minutes from Robertson, tucked away in a verdant valley. Ten luxury tents each sleep up to five guests. Every tent has two bedrooms, a bathroom with shower and loo, a fully kitted kitchen, dining area, living room and a large deck overlooking the valley. Swim in the pool or farm dam, or go hiking or biking in the mountains. From R1 190 (single), or R595 (shared) during low season; Bergendal Farm, Robertson. africamps.com BLUE COW BARN is a collection of four charming cottages on the Cooke family farm, on the edge of town in Barrydale. Cottages ‘Ansie’, ‘Betsie’, ‘Corlie’ and ‘Donsie’ sleep up to 12 in total. Each has a kitchenette, en suite bathroom, and a wonderful view of the surrounding mountains.…

The Baviaanskloof Mega-Reserve combining state-owned, private and communal land has more than 1 100 plant species (the kloof is a fynbos hotspot), 50 larger mammals, over 300 bird species (including martial, Verreaux’s, fish, crowned and booted eagles), 57 reptile, 55 butterfly and 15 fish species. Within its 200km extent, the kloof contains elements of seven of South Africa’s eight biomes – Nama Karoo, Succulent Karoo, fynbos, savannah, grassland, subtropical thicket and forest – and has been designated a Unesco World Heritage Site.…

You may think you’re pretty familiar with our famous flat-topped geological wonder but did you know that the first cable car went up from Camps Bay? Or that a small village of workers was established, complete with vegetable gardens, when the three dams were built, which 100 years later are still held up as shining examples of dam construction? What about the population of Himalayan tahrs that have prospered in the mountains since they escaped from the Groote Schuur Zoo decades ago? Our old-as-time mountain is still capable of stirring up new stories, too, such as the recent emergence of the 13 Peaks challenge, which we’ll tackle in the next issue while also exploring its lesser-known cracks, peaks, creatures and legends. ‘I spent a month trying to capture as many…

Hlengiwe Magagula THE THREAD Hlengiwe is a travel writer based in the Inkangala or highveld of the Kingdom of eSwatini. She loves finding wild corners to explore and has reported on her experiences in the Sunday Times, Travel Africa, Wild Card magazine, Weg!/Go! and High Life. She is co-author of Walking Safaris of South Africa (Struik Travel & Heritage), which promises to inspire readers to swap wheels for feet in our wild places, when it hits the shelves in February 2021. Hlengiweʼs top wilderness destination is Pafuri in Kruger with a bag of chilli-bites biltong. Justin Fox BAVIAANSKLOOF Our former editor, Justin Fox, left Getaway in May to follow his book-writing pursuits. First up is a World War II novel set in Simonʼs Town that is nearing completion and then…

Stay Here GREEN ACORN GUESTHOUSE Unique decor with all the modern comforts, and the breakfasts are scrumptious – and legendary. From R350 pp sharing. 051 933 2746 greenacorn.co.za KERSIEHUIS GUEST HOUSE Located in a quiet part of town; the eggs Benedict with sautéed asparagus is a treat. R600 pp B&B or R860 double B&B. 082 553 2262 kersiehuis.co.za Eat Here CAFÉ CHOCOLAT Tuck into tender Eisbein, homemade pastas or tasty pizzas. Grab a drink from the Gin-ger bar upstairs and meet the bar’s adorable canine namesake. 082 920 5551 IMPERANI GUEST HOUSE AND RESTAURANT Great for takeaway lunches or pop in for supper and cocktails. 051 933 3606 HAND MADE WITH LOVE For coffee, cakes and crafts. 076 977 9477…

Two farm stalls, both alike in – well, most ways really – but whose fans are more at odds than the Capulets and Montagues. Our scene is a 13-kilometre stretch of the N2 in the Elgin Valley, an hourʼs drive from Cape Town. Itʼs here that a culinary debate has raged for years: who makes the best pies? I drove out to settle the argument once and for all. A highly technical criteria was set: pies would be rated on whether you have to spend 20 minutes picking pastry crumbs off your shirt (good) or 20 minutes picking stringy meat from your teeth (bad). PEREGRINE Established as a fruit stall in 1964, Peregrine has become a destination in its own right. Now, instead of just dropping in for a pee…

OUR CAMP BENEATH A SAUSAGE TREE After obtaining our photographic and residency permits for Botswana, importing one of our vehicles from South Africa and getting advice from the locals, we headed into the Delta with two vehicles, packed to the roof with camping equipment, supplies for a month, all our camera gear and, most importantly, a sense of humour. Arriving at our first camp in the Moremi Game Reserve, we met a friendly official, Mbengs. With a broad smile he took us to the area where we could establish our camp under a huge sausage tree. Our bush vehicle, a Land Rover 300 Tdi, appropriately named Noahʼs Ark, had been in storage for almost a year and needed quite a lot of attention. Nevertheless, itʼs a superb vehicle with excellent…

Rounding hospital bend into Cape Town, I always look out for a pair of jackal buzzards that patrol the sky above. Their domain is the slope where Rhodes has fallen, their prey the timorous beasts that scurry in the green skirts of Devilʼs Peak. They perch on lamp posts along the highway which they sometimes cross to gaze down on the old graves of Groote Schuur Hospital, the urban melee and the sky rats beneath. This is pigeon domain: concrete and brick near-indistinguishable from the cliffs on which their wild ancestors used to roost. Here, there is abundant food in the streets, in the bins, in scraps of bread. And theyʼre not alone, thereʼs other wildlife here, too, a habitat so diverse that every turn of a corner reveals something…

FINALIST Caught by surprise We were at Sunset Dam in Kruger when I noticed a few big crocs catching fish... but they were too far off. I took a few shots but nothing worth keeping. It was good practice and I had my settings sorted out. Then I saw this big croc slowly coming towards us and I kept my centre focus point on his eyes. The croc suddenly lunged to its left, catching a decent-sized fish between its teeth, tossed it up and swallowed it. The action was over in a flash. When checking the results on the camera screen I realised I had caught a perfect moment where everything came together: settings, focus and action. By Johan Wandrag, Magaliesburg Canon 7D MkII, Sigma 150–600mm, ISO: 400, f/8, 1/3200…

Stay Here BONAMANZI GAME RESERVE BEST FOR Quick family breaks Just three hours from Durban, Bonamanzi is a good weekend destination. Young kids will love the tame warthog, impala and nyala that walk around the 4 000-hectare reserve. DO A sunset cruise on the river will take you into the False Bay Estuary to see crocodiles, hippos and many birds. From R450 pp. STAY There are 24 powered campsites (from R200 pp); 10 thatched rondavels look onto Lalapanzi Dam (from R1 295 pp), self-catering treehouses in the forest (from R750 pp), and three exclusive-use villas, good for private groups (from R850 pp). FACT The reserve consists mostly of sand forest, with small pockets of wetlands and savannah, and borders the Hluhluwe River. bonamanzi.co.za NDUMO GAME RESERVE BEST FOR Birding Near…

Do This At Sewefontein explore the wild-fig-tree forest (R45 pp) and the seven springs (R45 pp). There are also picnic sites (R15 pp) and camping (R100 pp). Doringkloof offers four 4×4 trails (grade 2 to grade 4/5) on the farm; R100 per vehicle. Plus there’s an 80km route over the mountains to Kareedouw; R150 per vehicle and R10 pp. Doringkloof also has four MTB routes (free). There’s a challenging, unofficial 4x4 route (two vehicles recommended) from Steytlerville to Patensie via Grootrivierpoort. At Cedar Falls, walk the one-day Waterfall Trail (R90 pp/free for farm guests). The Leopard Trail is an excellent 4-day/3-night slackpacking hike, overnighting in new huts. R1 680 pp. gobaviaans.co.za Do the Baviaans Camino, a four-day, 93-kilometre, slackpacking hike that traverses the mountains from north to south and ends…

WHAT’S ON THIS MONTH Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concerts 29 November Outdoor tunes will once again float over the botanical gardens, starting with Jeremy Loops on 29 November. Tickets start at R170 Cape Classic 6-8 November Riders kick off this 3-day cycle race in Montagu, climbing passes and completing time trials over a total distance of 365km. Entries: R4 500. Limited spots available. Happy returns LOGGERHEAD AND LEATHERBACK TURTLES These turtle species return to beaches in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park in KZN each November to nest. Their nesting season coincides with the shift in the Agulhas current, bringing warmer waters to the South African coast. Facing threat from humans, predators and inclimate weather, only around 1 in 1 000 of the hatchlings will make it to adulthood. Male turtles never return…

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PRINCE ALBERT, KLEIN KAROO Olive Festival (APR/MAY) princealbert.org.za Stay Old-world Karoo charm will be on the cards if you book into Brakdakkie. Each cottage is decorated in beautifully understated Karoo style and the little splash pool in front of every one is the perfect place to have a sundowner or two. COST From R410 pp | brakdakkie.co.za HAENERTSBURG, LIMPOPO Berry Festival (FEB) The Food & Wine Festival (MAY) The Spring Festival (SEPT) magoebasklooftourism.co.za Stay Haenertsburg is a great starting point for a host of Limpopo adventures and the village is not shy of a festival or two. Stanford Lake Lodge is situated in a scenic landscape of the lake and the Wolkberg Mountains. COST From R890 pn for two; R2 290 pn for eight people. 079 519 9211 | stanfordlake.co.za…

It was close to midnight when we stepped off the bakkie. The full moon was nearing its zenith allowing us to make out the silhouette of Manyoni Private Game Reserveʼs vegetation. ʻListen,ʼ reserve manager Karen Odendaal said. On the other side of the bushes came the sound of rustling, branches breaking and scraping so loudly it seemed almost reckless. ʻIs that the buffalo?ʼ I whispered. Weʼd encountered a disgruntled dagga boy moments before and there was a chance he was still wandering around. ʻNo,ʼ Karen said, ʻthatʼs the pangolin.ʼ The four of us sniggered at the absurdity of the sound, but also at the excitement of finally spotting this ancient animal for the first time. Telemetry had taken us that far, our feet would need to take us a little…

For as long as I can remember, Iʼve wanted to visit the vast river catchment area stretching from Willowmore to Patensie, sandwiched between the Baviaanskloof and Kouga mountains. Thereʼs only one road through it, built by master engineer Thomas Bain in the 1880s – the last and longest of his great passes, but there are plenty of byways, hidden gorges and cul-de-sacs to explore. Before heading into the kloof, I met up with Kobus Kok, an old-timer who knows the Baviaans like the back of his hand, in a coffee shop in Humansdorp. Shifting the mugs aside, he rolled out a detailed map on the table. ʻLook, Justin, you must take your time,ʼ said Kobus. ʻThereʼs so much to see. When you cross the Nuwekloof Pass, youʼre properly into the…

When to go The cool season is from November to February but temperatures are still in the high 20s. It’s hottest and most humid from March until June; the rainy season is July through to October. Need to know Visas for stays of up to 30 days: SA passport holders don’t need a visa for Thailand. Getting around: Ride-hailing app Grab offers affordable rates and frees you from haggling or trying to explain your destination. Bangkok has a good MRT (rail) service; and there are many taxis and tuk-tuks, too. Dress: Many temples and museums have a strict dress code: shoulders and arms must be covered to the elbow; no revealing clothing; no leggings, shorts, short skirts or ripped jeans. Many of the museums are closed on Mondays. Stay Here…