Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2019 i Getaway

It had been 31 years since last I’d stood on Vleesbaai beach. Now I was back to explore this coast for our December issue (page 76). There were many more houses but the peninsula, bending south-east to Fransmanshoek, was as beautiful as I remembered it. I looked out to sea and pictured our boat, anchored in the turquoise shallows. February 1988: what an adventure it had been. In 1987, as part of my national service in the navy, I joined a crew of 16 to sail a replica Portuguese caravel from Lisbon to Mossel Bay. This was in commemoration of the voyage of Bartolomeu Dias, the first European to round the southern tip of the continent. Our intention was to arrive in South Africa 500 years to the day after…

WE ASKED: Which book has inspired you to travel – and where? Gerald Durrell’s My Family and Other Animals inspired us to visit the Greek islands several times. Ian Brown The Drifters by James Michener – a group of young people travelling in the 70s in Portugal, Spain, Morocco and Mozambique. Alison Laura Thompson Best Walks of the Drakensberg by David Bristow. Brenda Dicks The Bible – to the Mount of Olives (Jerusalem). Brian Amery The Two-Year Mountain by Phil Deutschle is set in the Himalayas. Humaira Paruk Fools Rush In by Bill Carter inspired me to travel to Sarajevo. Dawn Bradnick The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón … Barcelona. Alicia Chamaille Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert inspired me to visit Italy and Bali. I’ve yet…

• A four-metre-high circle of light and mist, a giant glowing shape in an old oak tree, an inflatable sculpture you can lie on while it gently glimmers and breathes around you… These are some of the 18 light and sound artworks that will flicker into life each night at Spier Light Art (pictured right) in Stellenbosch. Free entry. 8 December – 19 January. spier.co.za • For a more traditional but no less fantastic array of festive illumination, the Trail of Lights in the Durban Botanic Gardens is ‘bigger and better than ever’. There’s also a food garden, live music and a Christmas market to enjoy. Booked tickets are cheaper at R65 pp. 13–30 December. trailoflights.co.za • Joburg Zoo’s Festival of Lights returns with glowing life-size animals, actual nocturnal beasties and an enormous…

CAR RENTAL You can get a free car to drive one way, from point A to B, by signing up with Transfercar, which puts travellers in touch with rental branches requiring fleet moves. Often, due to seasonal demand, they need to transfer cars around the country at great cost; now you can do it for them. Transfercar already operates in North America, New Zealand and Australia, and launched in South Africa in August. For now, the most popular routes are from/to Cape Town, Durban, Joburg and PE, but new options will be added as needed. In most cases, the cars can be used for up to three days – as long as they are dropped off on the date required – and some come with a free tank of petrol.…

Page-turning fiction • Deon Meyer’s latest, The Last Hunt , includes a murder on the Rovos Rail luxury train and scenes in the French city of Bordeaux – plus a hitman stalking a corrupt SA president. • Agent Running in the Field is the new John Le Carré, described as a ‘chilling portrait of our time’ (referencing Brexit, Trump, Russian oligarchs and more). • Quincy Miller, unjustly sentenced to life without parole, has a shot at freedom thanks to an unusual law firm, in John Grisham’s legal thriller The Guardians . • A little boy vanishes in the woods and returns six days later, unharmed but not unchanged… Imaginary Friend by Stephen Chbosky is by turns chilling, thrilling and moving. • Lark, population 300, is a remote, deeply religious island…

• Climbing the Slangkop Lighthouse (open weekdays only). 021-783-1717 • Imhoff Farm for good food, shopping and kids’ fun. • Horse riding on the beach. • Some say the best surfing in Cape Town – the local surf shop rents out gear. • De Kom tidal pool at high tide – for a swim and sundowners (or at ‘Witches Rocks’ off the boardwalk). • The new Kelp Shack at Soetwater Environmental Centre, for an educational walk and a meal made with seaweed. 068-262-2106 • A gin tasting at Deep South Distillery. • AndRoc’s mobile kitchen at the beach; deliveries from Komin Noodle; the Neighbourhood Farm shop at the primary school. • Far Out Kites; buy one and fly it on the beach.…

STAY HERE 1 Breede River Lodge in Witsand is a large, popular resort near the mouth of the river, with an activities and water-sport centre. From R521 for a Fisherman Cottage (sleeps two). 028-537-1631, breederiverlodge.co.za 2 House of Eels in Vermaaklikheid is a charming, quirky home on a large plot. It has a striking, landscaped garden and the property stretches down to the river where there’s a rowing boat and canoes for guests. The outdoor fire-pit is the perfect spot for braais. From R4 250 (sleeps 10). 021-790-0972, perfecthideaways.co.za . For other local options, see Getaway’s Final Cut on Vermaaklikheid, September, 2016. getaway.co.za 3 Koensrust Sea Farm has various accommodation options, including a tented river camp, kapstyl house and yard cottage. We chose the Beach Shack, comprising four separate buildings…

The roundabouts were killing us. Every few hundred metres, we chanted ‘right is right’ as Brandon swung Eugene’s thin steering wheel towards me and we sailed, remarkably unscathed, through our nine-millionth traffic circle, on the ‘wrong’ side of the road. We’d been told highway tolls are pricey in Portugal, so we’d opted for the back roads. And while some of the scenery was pretty, it wasn’t quite postcard stuff. More like Sunday mornings in the Klein Karoo, complete with the equivalent of Pep stores and mechanics’ workshops, and clutches of elderly men sitting on white plastic chairs staring at us as we drove past. ‘Look at their cute berets!’ Ah, Portugal. I’d resisted this land of sardines and cork handbags. It felt as though every Instagram feed I’d seen recently…

SMITH’S BE READY PACK PAL R225, awesometools.co.za This handy survival tool, complete with carabiner clip, covers the bases your Leatherman doesn’t – it has a knife sharpener, whistle and fire starter. I’ve watched enough Survivor to know that having flint is better than not having any, but it can be tricky to get a spark – I did eventually get the braai fire started after certain exciting rugby matches recently. The carbide sharpener was easier and effective, but only on flat blades. The Pack Pal fits in the palm of my hand, and weighs just 25g, so I’d imagine people with larger hands might find it a little fiddly, but better to have this gadget than not, right? CAROLINE WEBB KLEAN KANTEEN INSULATED TK WIDE R485, awesometools.co.za This 473ml flask…

HELEN WALNE Portugal Helen is a part-time misanthrope who would rather be submerged in icy seas and streams than churning through hordes of tourists pointing at things. Nostalgic, solid of body, with an affinity for pastries and cormorants, she can be found most days freediving around Cape Town’s False Bay, searching for sea slugs and dreaming up stories. Portugal was never top of her must-see list, mainly because it’s the top of everyone’s must-see list, but she’s so glad she went, and fell in love with Eugene. MIA LOUW Wakkerstroom Mia is obsessed with platteland towns. The fewer traffic lights and the more dirt roads there are, the better. Throw in cows, goats and horses roaming the streets and she’s in her element. Some of her favourite South African dorpies…

Two nights at Shamwari Private Game Reserve, worth R44 000 ‘I’ve never won anything before. This will be great for celebrating my wife’s 40th birthday.’ Magnus Loubser Two nights at Lekkerwater Beach Lodge in De Hoop, worth R25 600 ‘I’m so excited to get away and can’t believe it will be at De Hoop. My girlfriend is going to be super-stoked!’ Timothy Thom Gregory Packs adventure luggage voucher, worth R7 000 ‘I’ve been looking around for new luggage, so thanks for the good news!’ Ishmael Matsila A VIP weekend in McGregor, worth R5 000 ‘We often drive through these little towns and don’t take the time to explore. We’re really looking forward to seeing all that McGregor has to offer.’ Juliet Hoenck See page 117 for our big end-of-year Gear…

‘In the heyday of travel posters, the 1950s and 60s, only a few African destinations were depicted,’ says illustrator Duncan Butchart, which is why he decided to celebrate the continent’s iconic beauty spots in the same stylised, retro manner. So far, the African Journey Collection features 19 of the best-known wildlife reserves (all of which Duncan has visited), as well as popular tourist destinations, the Karoo and the ‘whale capital’ of Hermanus, his hometown. ‘In every case I’m striving to create an iconic image of an iconic place,’ he says, with each design capturing the ‘essence of the locality’ and ‘viewpoints that people who have been there can immediately relate to’. Fans of Tintin will also relate to these posters – Duncan loved the comics as a boy and was…

Panthera and the Peace Parks Foundation are saving Zambian big cats by supplying fake-fur regalia for the Kuomboka Festival on the upper Zambezi. Each year, 200 men traditionally wore leopard and serval skin skirts, plus berets topped with lion mane, while paddling the Lozi King’s royal barge between his palaces. Now a ‘fully collaborative’ design effort has created garments the Lozi can wear without killing declining species. Input from the Barotse Royal Establishment – including the need for replica serval fur as well as leopard skin – ensured all embraced the final design. The senior chief also advised on the size, shape and tailoring of the replica lion-mane headpiece. Look out for the new skirts and headpieces at future festivals. panthera.org…

Far from the Tex-Mex most people are familiar with, authentic Mexican cuisine is one of the oldest and most complex in the world, and has been listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by Unesco. Food is integral to the culture, identity and popular traditions of the Mexicans, with many celebrations binding both families and communities in a delicious, sensory spectacle. Many ingredients now used around the world came from here, not least chocolate, avocado and tomato. Corn is the staple (used to make the ubiquitous tortillas), along with beans and chillies – there are more than 150 varieties, and the type used in a sauce or salsa gives a dish its main flavour. In fact, a meal without chilli is no meal at all. THE MENU STARTERS A…

‘G’day mate, got a Vegemite sarmie to share?’Quokka, Rottnest Island, Australia By JAMES VODICKA Ever since Sharon left, Ralph had really let himself go.Red deer, Richmond Park, London, UK By MIKE ROWE He couldn’t remember whether the phrase was ‘Grab life by the horns’ or ‘Grab life by the balls’.African lions, Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana By SARAH SKINNER ‘You’ve been visiting that chick at Fukushima again, haven’t you, Douglas?’Gannets, Helgoland, Germany By CO GRIFT Word of the movie Surf’s Up had reached the penguin colony.Gentoo penguin, Bleaker Island, Falkland Islands By ELMAR WEISS And that’s when Gary realised, you can be pissed on and pissed off at the same time.White rhino and egret, Nairobi National Park, Kenya By TILAKRAJ NAGARAJ ‘Oh. My. Gawd. Here comes Donald Trump.’Sea otter, Seward,…

LORELEI Built around 1900, this stone cottage is a Kommetjie original. The Staines have partitioned off what was the kitchen as a lounge, and added a new galley-style kitchen leading to the delightful outside entertainment area with a pool. There are two bedrooms in the loft. From R795 for two, plus R295 pp extra (sleeps four). 082-456-9476, airbnb.com GLASENAPP HOUSE A contemporary timber box artfully placed amid the milkwoods near the lighthouse. Featuring imported fittings and furniture, Glasenapp will please modern design enthusiasts. The house has a sauna (a boon after the frigid ocean) and a rooftop deck. From R2 900 (sleeps six). kommetjiehideaways.co.za BLUE WHALE SURF SHACK A tiny, double-storey thatched cottage within Klein Slangkop eco-estate, this chic little bolthole is just a minute’s stroll from Long Beach, and…

STAY HERE Die Tuishuise & Victoria Manor in Cradock are beautifully kept and the perfect base to explore Cradock and its history, as well as Mountain Zebra National Park, just 15km away. From R400 pp sharing. 048-881-1650, tuishuise.co.za Rhodes Cottages has a variety of self-catering accommodation in the hamlet of Rhodes. Many are more than a century old and each has a garden and individual charm. Some are refurbished while others have been left untouched, giving you a wonderful sense of history. From R280 pp sharing. 072-4994-569, rhodescottages.com Kings Grant Country Retreat is a good base for exploring Mariathal Mission and the Trappist churches further afield. This historic farm supplied food for the local seminary in the 19th century. It has a wonderful chapel and an old mill, and you…

GETTING THERE Taag Angola Airlines flies from Joburg to Lisbon via Luanda for about R7 000 pp return. travelstart.co.za WHEN TO GO Summer is hot, vibey and crowded. The shoulder seasons of May–June and September–October will give you a taste of a more tranquil Portugal. NEED TO KNOW SA passport holders need a Schengen visa. For affordable groceries on the road, shop at Pingo Doce supermarkets. While wild camping is frowned upon, discreet overnight parking is legal as long as you don’t light bonfires or set up an elaborate camp. Fires are a real hazard, so cook on a gas stove and keep an eye on it. Orbitur has the monopoly on campsites (for tents, caravans and camper vans); see Stay Here. GETTING AROUND While Eugene carried us far and…

September to March is peak season for birding. The major drawcard is the endemic species which are restricted to SA’s high-altitude grasslands: Rudd’s and Botha’s lark, yellow-breasted pipit, blue korhaan and southern bald ibis. There are four bird hides around the wetland; the Wings Over Wetlands (WOW) and Clive Beck Memorial hides are the closest to town, near the Paul Kruger Bridge. See opposite page for guide details. CREW (Custodians of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers) organises rare-flower outings once a month during the summer. After the first rains, flowers such as wild orchids, disas, pink nerines and the Wakkerstroom geranium start to appear. 082-354-5649 The Restory Centre, 25km from town past Zaaihoek Dam, offers various multi-day retreats and day workshops, such as Contemplative Photography, Pottery or Mindfulness. R750 pp for…

CALL OF THE WILD We have just returned from seven days in Zimbabwe, a country perhaps not being given enough good press. We spent five glorious days and nights enjoying the (sadly, very low) Zambezi. Our lodge was on Msuna Island and offered fabulous views across the river to Zambia. With the low water, hippos and crocs were plentiful. We went downriver to Devil’s Gorge for sundowners – the sunsets in Africa are truly spectacular. We also spent time at Gwango Elephant Lodge (adjacent to Hwange National Park), where we were hosted by Elizabeth Pasalk and Danny Valerio. Elizabeth is half-Shona/ half-German and a reputable scientist. She and Danny returned to Zim after the death of her mother and took over the care of the elephants in the park. She…

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WORTH TRAVELLING FOR 5–7 DECEMBER CAPE TOWN Playtopia is back, a festival dedicated to gaming and ‘immersive arts’ (read: lots of mind-bending interactive exhibits, including The Lost Botanist ‘undergarden realm’). The line-up includes new game developers competing live onstage, talks by experts, VR stations and the Super Friendship Arcade (with games that bring people together) plus – back in reality – food trucks, a beer garden and live music. No kids under 18. playtopia.co.za 7 DECEMBER SUN CITY It’s been four decades since the mega resort opened its doors (can you believe it?). Of course, it’s celebrating its 40th birthday with a major beach party at the Valley of the Waves and an afterparty in the Superbowl featuring top local music acts – Goodluck, Kwesta, Mi Casa, AKA, Dr Victor…

If hanging out on the beach is just too chilled for you, it’s good to know that the KZN South Coast has a new adventure playground. The KwaNzimakwe Multi-Trail Park, inland from Southbroom, has closed-circuit tracks for motorbikes, motocross, enduro and mountain bikes, plus a 20-kilometre 4x4 trail that traverses the Mpenjati River valley. For those on foot, there’s a 10-kilometre trail run and a shorter walking loop through lush coastal forests with panoramic views of the ocean and hinterland. visitkznsouthcoast.co.za…

In 1895 Mary Kingsley became the first woman to climb Mount Cameroon. Her apparel was unlikely: long black trailing skirt, tight waist, high collar, a small fur cap, lace-up shoes and a parasol. In every respect she was unusual. With no formal schooling, she consumed her father’s considerable library in London and nursed her ageing parents, never travelling far, until they died. Then she packed her portmanteau, crated some scientific equipment and headed for West Africa. She charmed and spent time with the cannibal Fang tribe up the Ogooué River in what is now Gabon, discovered many new species of insects, plants and a fish (below), and wrote two books that made her famous. She died aged 37, nursing Anglo-Boer War prisoners in Simon’s Town in 1900. Sailing north along…

TRIED & TESTED WHAT Glamtrails WHERE Hermanus area, Overberg WHO Louise Topping As I got out of my car at Fernkloof Nature Reserve, the Black Southeaster whistled through my fleece jacket and stung my cheeks with icy droplets. Not the best day for a walk in the country... I was meeting Tim Lundy to try out one of the new Glamtrails, which he designed with his wife Gillian. With permission from landowners, Tim has developed five routes that immerse you in the area’s natural beauty, while indulging in some of the most delicious food and wine available in the Cape. It took some trial and error. ‘The first few times, we included too many wine-tasting stops and guests ended up rolling rather than walking to the end!’ he chuckled. ‘Now…

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 20 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online accommodation sites when researching a destination. For Kommetjie, she created a longlist of 21 to inspect. The following made the final cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? • Somewhere for a big group • A tented bush camp at a steal • The perfect family holiday home • Something right on the beach • A bolthole for a couple • A modern pad with a pool • Rustic, back-to-nature charm WHAT I FOUND ABOUT ACCOMMODATION HERE • There is a good…

Wonder Van rents out a fleet of retro camper vans from its depot in Sintra, and also offers guided tours. Vans are comfortable, well maintained and equipped with a folding table, two chairs, a gas stove and basic crockery and utensils. Two-sleeper from R900 a night. wondervan.pt or find it on Facebook. Portugal’s highways are tolled and the process can be complicated. Luckily, most rentals are fitted with an e-toll tag that automatically logs your fees, which are then paid when you return the car. We stuck to the back roads but drove on a few stretches of highway when we were pushed for time; our bill came to R435 for about 200km. Traffic cops perform regular vehicle-compliance checks, so ensure you have the necessary paperwork for your rental car at…

5... is the number of guesses you get to work out where in the world this is… For the January issue, the Getaway team is revealing our favourite, less-touristy places in Cape Town to spend a summer’s day or evening. From hush-hush speakeasies to markets and tidal pools, we’ve combed through it like the strandlopers of yore to bring you a locals’ guide to the city so many visitors swoon over. (PS: You’re right if you guessed the Woodstock/Salt River art district.)…