Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2019 i Getaway

A decade ago, I set off on a 5 000-kilometre journey in a Suzuki Jimny, following the route of Jan Smuts’s raid on the Cape in 1901. The idea was a meandering back-road trip through the Karoo, using the famous book Commando by Deneys Reitz as my guide. The founding of Getaway in 1989 was a direct result of a series of backroading articles that appeared in Car, our sister magazine. The response from readers was so positive that the publisher felt a stand-alone roadtripping magazine might fly in the South African market. It was an inspired decision. Roadtripping has remained a cornerstone of this magazine ever since. Taking to the open road or, better still, getting off the beaten track lies at the heart of South African travel. The…

WE ASKED: Where is your favourite waterfall in SA? Doreen Falls at Cathedral Peak, and Howick Falls. Claire Heyns Madonna and Child in Hogsback, and such a beautiful trail to get there too. Carla Ann Blue Grotto, Central Drakensberg. Nicci Eaglestone Bridal Veil Falls in Mpumalanga … hiking to get there and then cooling off under its icy cold spray. Ajay Bhowandas Forest Falls near Graskop. Eksteen Jacobsz Meiringspoort [De Rust], after good rainfall. Nelia Smuts Cleopatra’s Waterfall in Wolkberg Nature Reserve, Limpopo. Martin Kerr Third (top) waterfall at Tweede Tol on the Bain’s Kloof Pass. Rory DC Magwa Falls, tucked away on the largest tea plantation in Southern Africa, near Mbotyi in the Eastern Cape. 140-metre-plus straight drop! Jason Lee McCall See page 50 for more, and…

My holiday to Spain got off to a fabulous start. It began when our pilot woke up late, or couldn’t start his car, and consequently delayed our flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg by half an hour. Not a tremendous amount of time in terms of evolution and the universe and stuff like that, but just long enough for us to reach the Iberia check-in counter eight minutes after it closed. ‘No,’ said a yellow-vested man with the face of a diseased kidney. ‘You can’t get on the plane.’ Even though it’s only leaving in an hour? Even though. But we have already checked our luggage through from Cape Town to Madrid, we protested. Mr Kidney assured us that because we had not checked in, our luggage would not have…

Five years ago, research indicated that 66 per cent of people watch videos online when planning to travel. (Those figures are higher now, with even more videos available thanks to social-media ‘influencers’.) Film/ TV tourism has doubled in five years – in 2018, some 80 million people chose a destination after seeing it on screen. And film festivals themselves are a growing global phenomenon, with many places raising their profile by hosting such events. In light of all this, Africa’s first-ever International Tourism Film Festival is taking place this month in the Karoo town of Victoria West – home to the gorgeous Apollo Theatre (built 1928). itff.africa Case in point: The Garden Route is SA’s latest emerging film-industry hub, and the inaugural Knysna Film Festival (29 October–2 November) will open…

Looking for an ‘experience’ gift? Treat a loved one to a meal at the world’s best restaurant, right here in SA. Gåte at Quoin Rock Wines in Stellenbosch’s Knorhoek Valley took four wins at the World Luxury Restaurant Awards: Haute Cuisine and Molecular Cuisine winner, Restaurant of the Year and Best Head Chef for Nicole Loubser. The restaurant has launched a new menu celebrating 14 world cuisines, with Loubser and her 11-strong team interpreting each with a SA twist, and presenting true artistry on the plate. There’s an edible cigar (a twist on a rye pancake, pictured) with cheesy ‘ashtray’ dip, an egg-like caprese salad, and dry ice evoking the sea spray over West Coast oysters. ‘Upstream 2.0’ presents a salmon rose and caviar with spekboom, while the ‘Starry Night’…

Air Austral flies direct from Joburg to the capital, Saint-Denis, for about R7 320 pp (air-austral.com). Even though it’s French territory, South Africans do not need a visa. Food is cheaper at the markets and supermarkets (and local beer about R16). Visit the Saturday market in Saint-Paul for fresh juices, Creole samoussas and spices. New on the west coast is Ness by d’Ocean, combining self-catering and hotel services. R2 000 pp. nessbydocean.com Or try tropicalhome.fr for house rentals from R1 640 (sleeps four). Public transport is limited and there are few taxis, so the best is to book day trips. Contact the SA office of Réunion Tourism Board on 010-205-0201 or reunionisland.za@atout-france.fr.…

Tracks & Signs If you’d like to go full-on ‘San tracker’ with your friends or family, then start studying this field guide, which details not only spoor and droppings but feeding signs, tree damage, shed skin and nests and shelters – all clues for nature’s detectives to follow in south, central and east Africa. First published in 1994, it’s been revised, expanded and renamed the Stuarts’ Field Guide (now considered the standard reference on the subject). R390 100 Bushveld Trees Former 50/50 producer Megan Emmett Parker and photographer Shem Compion have produced a new guide detailing all you need to know about the glorious woody flora of this beloved landscape of South Africa. Beyond the identification value (leaves, seeds, pods, flowers, fruit, bark etc), it also has interesting info on…

The planet needs humans to radically change the way they live to prevent doomsday temperatures in our lifetimes. So we spoke to Sipho Kings and Sarah Wild, authors of South Africa’s Survival Guide to Climate Change (Pan Macmillan, R290). Climate is a complex system Whether it is terrestrial, marine or atmospheric, our actions have a knock-on effect, which is why we wrote a book for people who are wondering what they can do to fight back. A key realisation We knew that SA was warming at twice the global average, but working on this book really brought home just how much hotter SA is going to become. For people who can’t air-condition their homes or who work outdoors in physical jobs, it could be a literal death sentence. Will we…

‘My cooking philosophy is stay true to yourself and respect the ingredients. My inspiration comes from local suppliers. I call it honest, country-Euro-style food.’ The restaurant at Gabriëlskloof is celebrating its 10th year, and until the end of November is serving all the ‘greatest hit’ dishes of the past decade – such as the croque-braaibroodjie, banana-bread French toast, marrow- and rump-steak ‘ultimate’ burger and signature pork belly. Swartrivier Road, off the R43/ N2 (5km east of Bot River), Overberg, Western Cape 028-284-9865…

1 Make sure the person is away from the snake, as a second bite would really complicate matters. 2 Forget about tourniquets or cutting and sucking out the venom, and just focus on getting the patient to the nearest hospital urgently. 3 Call a private ambulance service, if possible, and notify the nearest hospital that you’re on the way. Or drive there yourself. 4 For more advanced first-aid measures, check out africansnakebiteinstitute.com or download the free first aid for snakebite app, ASI Snakes. GOOD TO KNOW Four out of 10 snakebite victims have no symptoms (dry bites) and nine out of 10 don’t require antivenom.…

Debengeni Falls, Magoebaskloof Lovely falls and very close to the parking lot. Walk up and down the river for beautiful scenery. Go in mid- to late summer after heavy rains. Waterfall Bluff, Mbotyi, Wild Coast It’s rare for a waterfall to tumble directly into the sea. This one has a small catchment area so is seldom in full flood. Your best chances are mid- to late summer. It’s a beautiful coastal hike to get there and you’ll need to ask for directions locally. Maletsunyane Falls near Semonkong, Lesotho One of the highest single-drop falls in Africa (192 meters), this beauty is not easy to get to but is breathtakingly photogenic when flowing strongly in a summer flood. Panorama Hiking Route, Jonkershoek Mountains, Stellenbosch It’s a serious 17-kilometre hiking trail which…

• The new Point extension of the Golden Mile – a 750m long, 30m wide elevated walkway from Moyo Pier to the harbour entrance. • A Ricksha Bus city tour to get your bearings, plus an actual Zulu rickshaw ride. • The city’s nine most eyeopening markets. R100 pp for a walking tour. marketsofwarwick.co.za • uShaka Marine World – also for Moyo Pier and the aquarium ‘ship’ restaurant. • Phansi Museum in Glen-wood (an anthropologist’s private collection). • High tea with a Durban Indian twist at Jeera (R250 pp), plus dinner on high at kitschy Roma Revolving Restaurant. • The curry – many of the oldest eateries are in the CBD: Little Gujarat, Victory Lounge, Britannia Hotel, Patel’s, Palki, The Oriental, Little India.…

Cape Town to Kruisrivier Head out on the N2; after Sir Lowry’s Pass turn onto the R321 at Grabouw, cross Theewaterskloof Dam and on to the R43. Then take the R60 to Robertson, the R62 to Montagu and on to Calitzdorp via Barrydale. After Calitzdorp turn left onto the gravel road to Kruisrivier (Red Stone Hills Farm is 6,5km further on – see ‘Stay Here’ opposite). Kruisrivier to Prince Albert (via Die Hel) From Kruisrivier head east to the R328, via Matjiesrivier, and onto Swartberg Pass. For the scenic 37km detour to Die Hel, turn left to Gamkaskloof just after the summit – 4x4 is recommended. Retrace your journey and descend the pass on the R328 to Prince Albert. Prince Albert to Samara Go east on the R407 and drive…

GETTING THERE There are no direct flights to Laos from SA, but regional services, Lao Airlines and Bangkok Airways fly from central Asian hubs. Bangkok to Vientiane on Bangkok Airways costs from R3 250. bangkokair.com NEED TO KNOW Laos is more affordable than its neighbours and I was mostly charged the same price as locals, rather than inflated prices that include a so-called tourist tax – a common occurrence when travelling in Southeast Asia. STAY HERE Si Phan Don Don Det Bungalows and Restaurant is on the sunrise side of Don Det island on the Mekong River. From R100 pp sharing. dondet.bungalows@gmail.com. Pakse Loop Do a homestay with Hook and his family. Don’t expect hot water and anything beyond the basics – this experience will give you a true sense…

Clayton Hendricks, barman/restaurant manager ‘On my days off I go fishing at Genesaret, mostly reeling in carp. It’s next to Lake Chrissie and costs R30 for day visitors.’ 084-207-8830 Sakhile Madonsela, shop assistant ‘The Historic Walking Tour through town is interesting. Many soldiers who fought in the Anglo-Boer War and at the Battle of Chrissiesmeer are buried in the cemetery.’ 074-797-9624 Antoinette Vosloo, artist ‘I live in Eswatini but I sell my art here. My husband and I often drive through on our Harley-Davidson. I like to photograph the old churches and gardens as inspiration for my paintings.’…

100... (at least) is the number of words in the Arabic language for camel. Al-jafool, for example, is a camel that gets frightened by anything and al-harib is a female camel that walks ahead of the others. There are also words for a camel that stomps its front leg on the ground, or that drinks once every three days, or a female camel that is superior to all others in all things. These were just a few of the fascinating titbits we learnt on a bewildering 10-day journey through Morocco, a country where oceans, snow-capped mountains and the Sahara Desert all meet.…

Eight nights at Zavora Lodge in Mozambique, worth R22 000 WINNER 1 ‘Thank you for this lovely getaway. I’ve always been a fan of your magazine, seeing all the beautiful places. Now it’s my turn. Can’t wait for my break.’ Wilma Minnaar WINNER 2 ‘I have travelled the world but Mozambique has always escaped me. So imagine my delight when I won this stay! Getaway, always a must for avid travellers on the African continent, has made my year.’ Michael Worne Thule Enroute 20L camera backpack, worth R2 499 ‘I’m absolutely ecstatic! I can’t wait to use my first-ever prize-win on all my hikes and expeditions to come.’ Dominique Greeff See page 76 for this month’s big win…

As far as Cape Town baker Tom Hannam knows, his is the only bread like it in the world – made entirely from seed (fermented buckwheat). This means it has no gluten, yeast, flour, sugar or dairy, suitable for Banters, vegans, diabetics and other healthy types. But don’t let that put you off – it’s downright delicious! Hannam & Co breads are made specifically for toasting, in three variations: Flatwhite (just buckwheat), Superseed (with sesame, flax and sunflower seeds) and Teatime (with raisins, cinnamon and ginger). For nutritional analysis and stockists in the Western and Eastern Cape, KZN and Gauteng, see hannam.co.za.…

‘The people of Réunion lean more to the mountain and forests than to the ocean,’ my guide Eddy Rivière explained in his liquid French-accented voice, as we navigated the 47th switchback on the mountain road leading to the edge of Piton de la Fournaise, the island’s alarmingly active volcano. ‘These endemic trees,’ he said, pointing to a stand of twisted, ancient-looking acacias on the roadside, ‘closely resemble endemic tree species on other islands that lie, literally, at the opposite end of the planet.’ This conundrum has bothered the botanical community since 1875. Now, Eddy informed me, an international team of researchers has unravelled the puzzle. Their findings represent the most extreme case of long-distance dispersal of plants ever documented. Réunion’s highland tamarind (Acacia heterophylla) and the Acacia koa, found 17…

Sir Richard Burton was an extraordinarily brave explorer and scholar with a genius for language and disguise. A year before this trip to Ethiopia, he became the first European to enter Mecca. Burton would go on to elope with his childhood sweetheart, write more than 40 books, and translate The Arabian Nights from Arabic and the Kama Sutra from Sanskrit. (Considered the first book of pornography in English, it was promptly banned.) After this side-trip to Harar in 1854, Burton returned to Berbera on the coast, where he joined John Hanning Speke on an expedition that nearly cost them their lives. A few years later, when Speke discovered Lake Victoria – and therefore the source of the Blue Nile – Burton was furious and called him a liar, ending their…

This continent-sized country has an extremely diverse menu, thanks to its melting pot of cultures and many regional specialities made from unique local produce. Fittingly, Brazilians have a huge appetite for life – and they love to eat as much as they like to party. It’s all about enjoying the simple pleasures, so the food tends to be wholesome and delicious instead of fancy and complicated. Whether it’s seafood, meat, chicken, Amazonian fruits or beans and rice, street food and informal ‘buffet’ cafes (comidas) ensure there’s always something delicious to snack on. THE MENU SNACK Addictive cheese bites MAINS Superb steak with salad DESSERT Coconut crème caramel PÃO DE QUEIJO ( Cheese Buns ) These bread puffs are deliciously cheesy and almost gooey, thanks to the tapioca flour…

POINT WATERFRONT APARTMENTS A collection of one-, two- and three-bedroom self-catering flats in the newly developed area at the entrance to the city’s busy port; walking distance to uShaka Marine World. The units are separately owned but well managed by the company, and most have great views of the harbour. Rates vary depending on the number of guests and rooms but are excellent value. From R1 200 for a one-bedroom apartment sleeping two adults and two kids. thepointwaterfront.co.za BURNS B&B Another colonial-era house on the slopes of Berea ridge with a maisonette that is now a four-star guest house (pictured right). Rooms 1 and 3 are best for city views. There is an open-plan kitchen next to the dining area for heating up meals. Great value. R450 pp sharing B&B.…

The December road trip is an institution in South Africa. Kids fighting on the back seat, eye-spy-with-my-little-eye, picnics sweltering under the only tree between Putsonderwater and Pofadder and dad flashing his lights at the kindred Cortina station wagon coming the other way… these are the things childhood memories are made of. These days, eye-spy is an adult game, too, and involves spotting the bikes on other travellers’ bike racks, assessing their place in cycling society, relative to the collection of two-wheeled family members on the back of your own car. And that’s a full-time occupation, today, as the cycling bug has bitten far and wide. Moms and dads are taking bikes to keep their training going, and the kids are joining in and exploring new roads. Travelling with your bike(s)…

GETTING THERE RwandAir flights from Joburg start at R4 549pp. rwandair.com STAY HERE RWANDA Yambi Guest House is in a suburb of Kigali. The 10 rooms each have a unique design, there’s a garden plus views of the green hills (and high-speed internet). From R850 pp sharing. yambihotel.com Paradise Kivu in Gisenyi was the find of our trip, with lush gardens in a beautiful setting on the shore of Lake Kivu, and luxury chalets built from wood and volcanic rock. The restaurant serves delicious organic fare, the bar/lounge has free high-speed Wi-Fi and the buffet breakfast is excellent. From R970 pp sharing B&B. paradisekivu.com Bethany Peace Hotel is also on Lake Kivu, with views across the water and islands (some of which are accessible on the in-house boat service). There…

As I drove into Chrissiesmeer, those small-town jokes came to mind. You know... ‘This town is so small, the welcome and goodbye signs are on the same post.’ Or, ‘This town is so small, the jail is called amoeba – it only has one cell.’ Chrissiesmeer’s jail actually has two cells, part of a quirky guest house known as the Jail Bird. Turning off Parkwood Street – the main road through town – on to one of the narrow gravel lanes, I was welcomed by platteland charm: cows, goats, pigs and a random rabbit roamed the streets, and light-blue views of Lake Chrissie could be glimpsed between old sandstone buildings. Many of these are from the 1880s, after the area was established as the Republic of New Scotland. In 1866…

SCENT OF SPRING At long last summer weather arrived. I had become somewhat euphoric, hungry for sun and warmth and even hungrier for blossoms and fresh, green, growing things – and travelling to experience them. For this reason, I was grabbed by the words of the editor – ‘Go hug a tree’ (September 2019). Encouraging words, but also a refreshing read and a wake-up call. You did us such a favour by making us aware of another form of healthy outdoor recreation: shinrin-yoku or ‘forest bathing’. The joy of feeling at one with nature, getting out and about in the countryside, thinking about oneself – that is precisely what people today need most. It’s not only the kilometres covered that count when getting away, it’s also the depth of feeling…

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WORTH TRAVELLING FOR OCTOBERNOVEMBER JOBURG Float through beautiful spaces filled with flora of every kind at the first Johannesburg International Flower Show, from intricate ‘artisan’ gardens to bigger show gardens and a Grand Pavilion. There will be live music to match the scenery, workshops by experts, a special kids’ area and themed food and drink gardens. At the Mall of Africa in Waterfall. johannesburgflowershow.com OCTOBERNOVEMBER TZANEEN Products of this Limpopo town include moringa gin, dragon fruit and Cremora tarts, plus there’s new Matume coffee and a dried-fruit factory, and just down the road is a brewery and cheese farm. Try it all and more during Taste of Tzaneen, which also offers a wine-tasting meander, young chefs’ and potjiekos competitions, shows, live music, talks, tours and crafts (it’s also an arts…

Halloween vs Mexican Day of the Dead? Celebrate both at Montecasino in Joburg on 26 October. This family-friendly, fancy-dress fiesta offers a chilli-eating contest, mechanical-bull riding, a piñata showdown and the biggest trick-or-treat in town. Plus Mexican food stalls and entertainment by Matthew Mole, Goodluck, Ryan the DJ and more. connectentertainment.co.za Speaking of Mexico, the new International Tequila Festival in Cape Town on 1–3 November will showcase 30 tequila, mezcal and agave spirits (with masterclasses and food pairings to aid, ahem, finer appreciation), plus cook-offs, ‘chilli-offs’ and a great lineup of bands and DJs. internationaltequilaco.com » Henrik Stenson and other top golfers play Sun City, 14–17 November. nedbankgolfchallenge.com…

‘Holidays give me time to play with food. This samp and bean risotto is something I cooked in Addo, and it has stayed a favourite. Serve it with a braai as the veg dish. 1 Fry 2 chopped onions until they’re soft, then add 2 cloves of garlic (chopped), 2 diced celery sticks and 2 diced carrots, and let it fry for a bit. 2 Add 500g samp and beans and let it fry with the rest. Pour in 250ml white wine, and let the alcohol evaporate, then add some fresh thyme sprigs. 3 Add 1L veg or chicken stock, a little bit at a time, stirring regularly, until it’s all nice and soft. 4 Finish the risotto by adding 2 cups of mushrooms (any kind you like). You can…

SURVIVAL GUIDE APP The Offline Survival Manual helps you overcome tricky situations, even if you don’t have internet access. It can be downloaded for free and contains useful information about making fire, finding food and even the psychological impact of being in a survival situation. Categories include basic medicine, shelter, plants, finding direction, signalling and camouflage. THE 85-PIECER R399, capeunionmart.co.za The Lifeline Large First Aid Kit, with its sturdy case and varied supplies, including a first-aid guide, looks like something an informed parent might carry. The 85 pieces include bandages for knuckles, knees or elbows, and a triangular one to make a sling. There’s a whole lot more packed in: scissors, tweezers, rubber gloves, alcohol prep pads, sting-relief pads, antiseptic towelettes, sterile gauze pads, combine dressing, conforming gauze roll, adhesive…

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 20 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online accommodation sites when researching a destination. For Durban, she created a longlist of 22 to inspect. The following made the final cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? • A luxury B&B at a steal • Best beachfront hotel for budget self-caterers • The funkiest backpackers in town • A landmark grande dame on Berea ridge • The best boutique stay in the midst of the action • A stylish urban retreat • Great seafront hotel deals for families WHAT I FOUND ABOUT…

Some six-odd years ago, Charley Boorman, one of the world’s acknowledged kings of motorcycle roadtripping, asked me, ‘Why is it that all great rides are always ruined by the last 45 minutes?’ I’ve had lots of time and kilometres on two wheels to reflect on his disgruntled observation. Actually, he didn’t use the polite word ‘ruined’ – and I realise that true bikers wouldn’t have it any other way. Adversity through being cold, wet, muddy (and in extreme cases, bloody) is what separates us from motorists in the grittiness of road-trip experience. Charley’s words came back to me recently, but this time it was the first part of the journey that threatened to derail the rest. A group of us riders had flown in from around the country to King…

GOLIATH’S FOOTPRINT In the Mpuluzi area, 56km from town, a 1,8m impression of a left footprint in granite rock (pictured above) has spiritual significance and many legends attached to it. Some say it is the footprint of God or Adam; others believe it belongs to e’Mpuluzi, a giantess who lived more than 100-million years ago. It’s said she died while running towards her lover as a volcano erupted, leaving her footprint behind in the molten rock. TI’QWA SAN ROCK ART Towards eManzana (Badplaas), 40km from town, the San people left their story in a cave named Ti’Qwa, a San word describing the relationship between people and God. The rock paintings date back roughly 15 000 years; they show people and mythical figures, and depict the stalking tactics of a pride…