Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2019 i Getaway

For many of us, travel is a passion, a defining activity. We can’t get enough of it. But are there too many of us? And are we damaging the places we love? While this month’s new-look Getaway focuses on the future of travel, we also need to be mindful of the consequences of overtourism. The UN’s World Tourism Organisation records that there were 1,4 billion international tourist arrivals around the world last year, a figure that is expected to grow by 6% annually. This escalation is due to a host of factors. The rapid growth of an affluent middle class (particularly in China), bucket-shop airlines, the booming cruise-liner industry and the popularity of ‘Instaworthy’ sites has resulted in certain destinations being overrun. In addition, Airbnb and similar online-accommodation portals have…

WE ASKED: What is your must-have travel tech? Can’t leave without a camera! Kirsti Chambers Headlamp. Riaan Boshoff A 12V cellphone charger, 12V mattress pump, the Otocyon reporting tool and Latest Sightings app. Simon Botes Design and colouring apps for long waits. And definitely a powerbank. Saara Mowlana I keep a survival-guide app with first-aid tips on my phone. It has an ‘offline’ mode. Also headphones for my music, podcasts and audiobooks. Sa’eed Masoet As long as I have my toothbrush I’m sorted! Dwayne Gonsalves…

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‘Mindful drinking’ is a global movement in which people are choosing to socialise sober. Whether this is for safety, health, conscientious or ‘disruptor’ reasons, brands are paying attention. The number of low- and zero-alcohol options on the shelves has certainly swelled in the past year – they still taste like the specific beer or wine, just without the buzz (FYI: the science has improved, with alcohol removed using a spinning cone or reverse osmosis without changing the flavour profile.) The market for health drinks, exotic infusions and botanical concoctions is also booming. Find out more at SA’s first Mindful Drinking Festival at Kirstenbosch in Cape Town on 20 October, with workshops, live music, great food and an array of beverages to try. Best of all, comedian Nik Rabinowitz will be…

Plastic is fantastic … says no conservationist, ever. Unless it’s recycled plastic being turned into roads. The first plastic road in Africa is being built in Jeffreys Bay. The pilot project is just a kilometre long, but the plastic-asphalt mix will use up the equivalent of 1,8-million plastic bags, and is said to be more durable and less prone to potholes. And the plastic pellets used are only made from waste that can’t be recycled and is ordinarily thrown away or burnt. (MacRebur, the company involved, wanted to ensure its roads would help decrease the overall volume of plastic on the planet.) Part of the test road will use imported pellets, but once the new material is given the thumbs up by all authorities, the plan is to set up…

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 20 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online accommodation sites when researching a destination. For Hazyview, she created a longlist of 29 to inspect. The following made the final cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? • Romantic luxury on a rose and fruit farm • The best hotel in town • A special-occasion spoil with fantastic views • An old-school guest lodge • Riverside camping with all the mod cons • A country escape with a self-catering option • A classic Lowveld inn at a steal WHAT I FOUND ABOUT…

Next month, Gondwana Game Reserve will launch The Pioneer Trail, a guided, three-night walking trail traversing the private 11›500-hectare, malaria-free, Big Five reserve near Mossel Bay in the Western Cape. The trail is the ultimate slack-packing adventure where your luggage is moved daily between camps, allowing you to experience the dramatic landscape and abundant wildlife while only carrying a light day pack. Each of the three remote, tented fly camps comprises four two-sleeper tents with en-suite bathrooms and outdoor seating areas, as well as main dining and lounge tents, and outdoor dining and campfire bomas. African-inspired meals are catered for you, with cold beverages on tap to quench your thirst. All you need to bring is your hiking boots to indulge in this bucket-list experience on the Garden Route. THE…

LIMPOPO Abelana, a 15›000-hectare Big Five game reserve adjacent to Greater Kruger’s Balule and Selati, will focus on walking and horse safaris. It’s owned by the Mashishimale community, partnering with HTH Lodge Holdings to offer eco-tourism. The Safari Camp (five Meru-style luxury tents) has just opened, and on 1 January 2020 the riverside Makubu Lodge will open its doors. From R3›000 pp. abelanagamereserve.co.za KWAZULU-NATAL Babanango Game Reserve in Zululand is a new 20›000-hectare Big Five reserve that is currently being stocked – a collaboration between African Habitat Conservancy and the local community. First to open in 2020 will be Zulu Rock’s bungalows and four-star Valley Lodge; future plans include a five-star lodge and a tented camp. babanangogamereserve.com…

Singapore’s Changi Airport is far more than a hub of human transportation. It’s a lifestyle destination that draws locals on weekends and holidays to enjoy its many attractions. The most impressive feature of its Jewel Complex (opened in March) is a glass-domed roof. Light penetrates everywhere, while rainwater drains through an oculus at the dome’s apex, showering water down seven storeys through the centre of the building, creating an impressive 40-metre indoor waterfall. There are also shops, restaurants, an Imax theatre, butterfly park and interactive light shows. The Jewel Complex features more than 2000 trees and palms and over 100000 shrubs, roughly 120 species from all over the world. The airport has automated self check-in kiosks, (very polite) cleaning robots and a YotelAir mini-hotel where you can book hourly slots…

GETTING THERE It’s about six hours’ drive from Nairobi to Oseki Camp in the North Mara Conservancy. The camp can arrange a transfer (R2›300 one way for two people, R3›000 for three or four) or they will collect you from Narok if you take public transport. The cheapest flights to Nairobi are on Ethiopian Airlines, via Addis Ababa, from Cape Town or Joburg, from R4›500 pp return. ethiopianairlines.com NEED TO KNOW South Africans don’t need a visa for Kenya. Kenyan shillings are available from ATMs in most towns; take dollars for park entry ($80). THE AIRBNB ADVENTURE This includes two nights at basic but lovely Oseki Maasai Mara Camp, with all meals, tea, coffee and water included. You’ll also have the village experience and go on a bush walk with…

‘Slow down: fairies crossing’ reads the sign as you drive into Bathurst from Port Alfred, the Indian Ocean a hazy dozen-odd kays behind you. Quirky and quaint doesn’t begin to describe this laid-back village on an ancient sand dune that boasts two town criers in red coats, not a single traffic light and the biggest pineapple in the world. It’s populated by non-conformists who don’t recognise rules that apply elsewhere: academics and artists, free-spirited entrepreneurs, conservative farmers and retro retirees, including old hippies still selling tie-dyed T-shirts. There’s a kind of Wild West attitude, but in the mellow Eastern Cape ‘up-yours’ way of acknowledging authority. I moved here two years ago from Cape Town and still congratulate myself every time I encounter ‘traffic’. Here that’s more likely to constitute cows…

LOUISE TOPPING & ACHMAT BOOLEY Getaway Studio Louise and Achmat have spent the last few months immersed in the adventure of redesigning the magazine – reams of paper plastered over the walls and late nights galore. Emerging just before print deadline, they found themselves (if prematurely) looking forward to 2020 and to a more out-of-office experience. CHRIS DAVIES Chris discovered Botswana relatively late in life, on an idyllic Moremi road trip with an old school friend. In the last seven years, he’s returned as often as he can, including six weeks of touring almost every campsite in the Kalahari and writing a 4x4 guide for Getaway. Until February 2019, however, he’d never visited in summer – and now considers the glorious green season Botswana’s most beautiful time of year. DON…

Five nights at Sandies Baobab Beach resort in Zanzibar, worth R54›600 ‘It’s been years since my family and I have had a holiday away together, and Zanzibar looks like paradise. We can’t wait to get onto that beautiful beach!’ Sarah Rade Two Sealand duffel bags, worth R4›345 ‘In our household we can never have enough bags – with two boys under six, packing is always a nightmare. So the prize will be very handy for our adventures.’ Yolanda Reinstorf…

It was the hottest day in the history of Paris, and I wasn’t bothered and nor was anyone around me. Paris is a terrible place to be in a heatwave. The French have a weird attitude about everything, and especially climate control. They don’t like it. They fear it. They would rather give directions in English to a tourist than turn on an air conditioner or an electric fan. It’s not the energy consumption or the environmental impact that bothers them – it’s the draught. The French are convinced they can survive anything – Nazi occupations, garlic shortages, the price of a beer in a cafe in the Place des Vosges (Є11) – except the sensation of moving air on their skin. Those chic Parisians in Hermès scarves and cravats?…

Billed as a conservation comedy, Benny Bushwhacker: Human Nature stars Ben Voss (above), was written by Spud author John van de Ruit, and is currently touring South Africa. Who is Benny Bushwhacker? I am a wild man. And not wild as in ‘I party like a teen at a Black Coffee jol’. No. The last party I went to was a bird party. I grew up in nature in the Eastern Cape. The locals nicknamed me the ‘Cradock Mowgli’. I like nature and dislike human nature, though I recognise that to help nature I have to try change human nature. When Trump is pulling out of the Paris Climate Agreement, you know you have a tough road ahead. I mean, come on! Who pulls out of Paris? I was shortlisted…

In 1853, while David Livingstone tarried at Linyanti on the Chobe River, a messenger arrived saying there was a white man downriver who wanted to greet him. Livingstone was stunned, but wishing no competition from other European explorers, he refused to meet him and never mentioned the incident in his diaries. The Scottish missionary would have profited greatly from talking to László Magyar, in many ways a greater explorer than himself. The illegitimate son of a Hungarian noble and peasant girl, László had criss-crossed the world from Havana to Sumatra, and knew far more of Africa than Livingstone could have imagined. This is the story of his perilous trip up the Congo River in 1848, the first white man to record the depredations of slavery in the African interior. On…

The top holiday for me is a relaxing one, catching up with family and mates. I don’t mind where it is, to be honest. I’m the tag-along type when it comes to planning. I go back home to my folks in Zimbabwe a lot. It’s always great to spend time on the farm in Gweru (in the middle of the country). There isn’t much to do there but chill. My family are creatures of habit, so when I was a kid we went to the same place on holiday year after year. We’d drive down to Uvongo on the South Coast. My old man would make two dishes that became holiday traditions: a whole snoek on the braai and seafood paella – not the genuine thing; most Spanish people would…

• Abseiling down Makhulu, a 27-metre outcrop overlooking the Kruger Park. • Shiloh estate for homegrown coffee, plus cake and food in an old boathouse next to the dam. • Hazyview Skyways, the longest aerial cable trail in Africa. • Family-friendly river-rafting and ‘geckoing’ (tubing) on the Sabie. • Nabana Market Stall for just-picked fruit – mangos, litchis (for three weeks in December only), avos, bananas and citrus. • No-frills vibes at Tanks Bush Pub, tapas and cocktails at Kuka Cafe, and one of SA’s top steakhouses, Pioneer’s Grill. Plus the litchi-based Duke Gin at Summerfields.…

According to the UN World Tourism Organisation, there are now 1,4 billion travellers on the planet. In the past year or two, there has been major interest in the Middle East as well as sub-Saharan and North Africa; Ethiopia recorded the biggest growth in tourist numbers in the world in 2018. Below are places that are still only on the radar, so get there before the crowds do: PHILIPPINES SRI LANKA CAMBODIA’S ISLANDS GEORGIA THE BALKANS ›KOSOVO, MONTENEGRO, MACEDONIA, ALBANIA› SAUDI ARABIA ZAMBIA NICARAGUA BELIZE FAROE ISLANDS Plus, lesser-known wine regions to explore: VALLE DE GUADELUPE, MEXICO PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA TRANSYLVANIA, ROMANIA PELOPPONESE, GREECE…

My name is Nasha and I am a Maasai woman – at least for a day. In Maa it means ‘the lady who brings the rain’. And I did – in the dry season nogal – accompanied by a purple thunderstorm that lashed Oseki Maasai Mara Camp on the evening of my arrival. Oseki is owned by Dennis Parmuat, a born-and-bred Maasai morani (warrior) since the age of 10, and an ace animal tracker. He and his partner, Anne Blom, were my hosts for three days during an Airbnb Adventure Maasai experience in south-western Kenya. “The little toddlers were fascinated by the new ‘elder wife’ Kenya has over 50 tribes, but the Maasai were the dominant people when the British arrived at the beginning of the 20th century. To this…

SURFIN’ RSA I’ve come into a bit of dosh recently, what with my mom having passed on. So me and Shaz decided to do a bit of a road-trip ‘surfari’ up the coast. Board, wetsuit, rod and beach toys in the back, despite Shaz’s whingeing. And I thought, ’cos my high-school English teacher Mister ‘Dork’ Collins used to tune me I had a ‘way with words’ (mostly the wrong way, he said, but never mind) that I’d write to the Getaway mag and give you okes updates, regularly-ish. So this is numero uno. I said cheers to my surf chinas, packed the Kombi, and we headed out of Kommetjie, round False Bay. The sea was flat as a pancake so no chance of a goef at Kalk Bay reef or…

SCOOTING SAFARI In July 1959, my friend Bernie ‘Jinja’ Jarmaine and I decided to ride to then-Rhodesia on two Vespa 150cc Grand Sport scooters (pictured right). For the trip, I sprayed mine turquoise and Bernie made his lilac – the colours stood out wherever we went. We left Cape Town on a Saturday at 1pm, reaching Beaufort West by evening and sleeping in a culvert outside the town – what a cold night that was. Three days later we crossed the border at Beitbridge and stayed over at Peters Motel. Four-and-a-half days later we were in Salisbury (now Harare), at my aunt’s house, and being entertained by members of the local Vespa Club. Bernie and I ventured on to Kariba to witness the last coffer dam being blown up, and…

From the first time they visited Kruger, back in 1995, Mario and Jenny Fazekas have kept a record of their sightings. They bought a souvenir tea-towel map (pictured right), attached it to a board and pinned the locations – red for lion, yellow for leopard, white for cheetah and green for wild dog. Originally they also kept track of elephant and buffalo, but these were so numerous they stopped. Rather, they added cheetah and wild dog to the Big Five to make their own ‘Super Seven’. This has helped them track the most productive areas for photographing animals. Based on 517 days spent in the park over seven years, their new e-book, The Photographer’s Guide to the Greater Kruger National Park, is extremely detailed (the contents list alone runs to…

20700 breeding pairs of African penguins left, according to the last census estimate – an all-time low. Good news is that a penguin/ seabird ranger has been assigned to Robben Island, to keep an eye on one of the few colonies left. Sanccob is hosting its Penguin Festival on 5 October in Simon’s Town, starting with the once-a-year mass release of rehabilitated birds back into the wild at Seaforth Beach (pictured below). The festivities also include educational exhibits, kiddies’ rides, food vendors (including boerie rolls ‘made with love’ by SANParks Honorary Rangers) and a craft beer and wine zone. sanccob.co.za…

Equal parts beauty and precision, Japanese cuisine uses age-old techniques to produce unique dishes, and humble ceremony to serve them. Meals are built around gohan, simple steamed white rice, and ingredients that welcome each new season. Sweet, sour, salty, spicy and umami – the moreish, savoury fifth taste – are well rounded in dishes. Seasoning is provided by vinegars, sauces, pickles, seaweed and dried seafood – less so by spices and herbs. And because aesthetic appeal is as important as flavour, Japanese food is a feast for the eye as well as the tummy. THE MENU STARTER A sushi-esque bite MAINS Fish with tarty greens DESSERT Heaven on a plate SPICED-TUNA ONIGIRI Onigiri are tasty triangles of sticky rice wrapped in nori (seaweed). Our recipe has an umami tuna filling;…

TIMAMOON This lodge’s romantic, rather exotic and decadently dressed villas enjoy stunning views, and each has a plunge pool and fireplace. It’s more private than Tanamera next door (see page 65), but note that you have to drive to the restaurant for meals. From R2 400 pp sharing DBB. timamoonlodge.co.za KRUGER PARK LODGE A collection of well-maintained self- catering houses in sprawling grounds on the outskirts of Hazyview, some with pools but all share resort-like lodge facilities, and offering good value: from one-bed timeshare units (from R505 pp sharing) to four-bedroom units (from R5140 sleeping eight). You can hire from owners but for 24/7 service and support, contact the central booking office at the lodge. krugerparklodge.co.za THULAMELA B&B This little gem is just off the R40 but feels like a…

Montebelo Milibangalala resort is being developed at Ponta Milibangalala in the Maputo Special Reserve (MSR), Mozambique. New campsites should be operating by December at Lake Xinguti, a beautiful freshwater lake in MSR, and at Ponta Membene on the coast. The Mhlumeni–Goba Transboundary Trail is a 24-kilometre circular hike under development in the Lebombo Mountains. The Mhlumeni Community Camp in Eswatini, with basic safari-tent accommodation, is already open for beautiful hikes into the valley below. peaceparks.org…

“Every time a tourist moves, data is generated, harvested, interpreted and even exploited. So a mountain of data is being generated on travellers and their habits.’ “Imagine arriving at reception and every piece of hardware collects data. If the hotel has a smart floor, it will know if you’ve put on weight since you last visited. When you walk into your room, the mattress firms itself according to how you like it. The air con sets itself to an average of your preferred temperature from last year. The menu options pushed to your phone are from your favourite restaurants in the area. Now, where this gets really interesting is: will different hotels be able to share this data with each other?’ “The benefit of the Internet is that everyone has…

MARRAKECH MOROCCO AFRICAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE Awarded for the first time in 2020. RIJEKA CROATIA AND GALWAY IRELAND EUROPEAN CAPITALS OF CULTURE RIO DE JANEIRO BRAZIL WORLD CAPITAL OF ARCHITECTURE Another new accolade for 2020, it shines a light on projects that offer solutions to urban issues. LILLE FRANCE WORLD DESIGN CAPITAL A showcase of design-led urban policies and innovations. KUALA LUMPUR MALAYSIA WORLD BOOK CAPITAL Selected due to its focus on inclusive education, a knowledge-based society and access to reading materials. LISBON PORTUGAL EUROPEAN GREEN CAPITAL The city has reduced CO2 emissions by 50%, energy consumption by 23% and water consumption by 17%. Plus 76% of its citizens live within 300 metres of green urban areas.…

New London bar Navrtar offers ‘free-roaming’ VR experiences that get patrons fighting off zombies or stopping an alien invasion. (PS: There are also four similar VR Arcades in the Netherlands.) From R522 pp for an hour. navrtar.com If you fancy trying 3D-printed sushi, keep an eye out for the opening of Sushi Singularity in Tokyo. The sushi is made with edible, flavoured gels. open-meals.com. Watch out for PokéBar pop-ups in cities in the UK and US. On offer are Pokémon-themed burgers and cocktails, action stations, card battles and DJs. viralventures.com.au…

GETTING THERE Bathurst is on the R67, about 12km inland from Port Alfred on the Sunshine Coast’s R72, midway between East London and Port Elizabeth. Travelling from Makhanda (Grahamstown), it’s 45km south-east. STAY HERE The Historic Pig and Whistle Inn in the heart of the village has comfortable rooms, lots of atmosphere and a lively traditional English pub. From R345 pp sharing en-suite, R245 pp in an historic room with shared bathrooms, including à la carte breakfast. 046-625-0673, pigandwhistle.co.za Bathurst Caravan Park comprises eight grassed sites under trees on a quiet backroad. R100 per site plus R50 pp (maximum six). 046-625-0897 DO THIS See the world’s largest pineapple. Inside it is an exhibition about the main crop of the area, and a staircase to the top. Entry R25 adults, R10…