Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i Getaway

Being avid wildlife enthusiasts, my fiancée Merle and I both grabbed a copy of the May Kruger issue and enjoyed the articles. I run the Wayfarers Guest House in Sabie, so it explained why some local guests, after a day visit in the park, returned and proudly told me that they had seen ‘tigers’! The photography masterclass caught my eye, especially the bit about ‘camera shake’. Armed with my Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary Lens, I could disregard every single word of it – correct as it is – as I’ve been delighted with the results I’ve achieved using this lens. I have many fond memories of trips into Kruger. They are all special, but two are quite poignant. In 2012, my late wife Morag was not well but we had an…

Lekkerwater Beach Lodge DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE, WESTERN CAPE As we drove over the rise, Lekkerwater looked just like a shipwreck on the shore. Its grey-timber frame sat perched above the waves, dwarfed by a magnificent coastline. We’d arrived in a very special corner of the Cape’s Deep South. Lekkerwater started life as the holiday cottage of the Green family in 1939. Much of this coast was expropriated for an Armscor missile-testing range in 1983. After part of the land was given to De Hoop Nature Reserve, Lekkerwater became President FW de Klerk’s ‘Camp David’, where many discussions on the future of SA took place. After 1994, the house was returned to CapeNature and rented to the public. Then, in 2015, it burnt to the ground during a lightning storm.…

Take it yourself Controlling depth of field is key for landscapes, so you will be shooting at slow shutter speeds EQUIPMENT A tripod (and preferably a cable release) is imperative for super-crisp images at slow shutter speeds. For landscape shots, you need a wide-angle lens such as 16-35mm, 17-40mm, 24-70mm or 24-105mm. A circular polariser is useful for adding contrast to your image, and reducing glare when shooting into the light (often the case with flowers, or if you have light bouncing off leaves or wet rocks). Graduated filters give you additional control over the overall exposure. SETTINGS For the greatest depth of field, use a small aperture, from f/11 upwards, for the overall image. Set the ISO to 100. If using focus stacking (see ‘Know Your Stuff’ overleaf), open…

FINALIST Desert Storm Driving to Sossusvlei in Namibia, I was greeted by a haze of sand blowing off the dunes and sandblasting my bakkie. I ventured out with my camera covered in a dust bag. The wind was fierce and I had to steady myself against the car to take photos. But I actually enjoyed the eerie atmosphere the sandstorm created around the trees, as if nature wanted to demonstrate its force but still show its beauty. – By Dirk Lombard, Paarl FINALIST Portrait I took this image on a friend’s farm in the Groot Marico area of North West Province. I love spending time with Nguni cattle, for the calming effect they have on me. They are also possibly the most beautiful bovines in the world. – By Yolandi…

STAY HERE Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge is the best place to stay for hiking to the top of the Amphitheatre. It has a quaint feel with a fine restaurant and spectacular views. From R585 pp sharing B&B. 058-713-6361, witsieshoek.co.za The Cavern is a family resort below the Amphitheatre that’s been going since 1941 and offers great meals, guided walks and evening activities. From R1 400 pp sharing DBB. 036-438-6270, cavern.co.za Zingela River & Safari Company mixes comfort with adventure on one of the wildest stretches of the Tugela. Accommodation ranges from basic tents to luxury rooms built with local materials. From R275 pp a night; camping R175 pp a night. 081-816-2541, zingelasafaris.co.za St Cathryn’s Golf Estate near Greytown has self-catering accommodation on a nine-hole golf course with access to a bass-fishing…

‘This is tiger season and you’re walking into tiger country now,’ came the words from a very concerned-looking shepherd living on the edge of the Namib Desert. In these parts, everything is called by a different name: leopards are called tigers, hyenas are called wolves, and hikers are called crazy. But I’m not some hardcore explorer and neither is Lauren, my wife. We’re just two normal people who set out to walk along the coast from the southernmost tip of Africa to the northernmost point of Namibia. I had a dream one night: I was on a beach with the cold Atlantic Ocean to my left and a white sandy desert to my right. I immediately realised that I was walking on the coastline of Namibia. The dream had such…

It was pitch-dark as we weaved our way through the tiny streets of Shela on Lamu Island in the early-morning hours – with all our gear on our backs and adventure in our hearts. The Flipflopi and her support boat, Lamu Dhow, were docked outside the Peponi Hotel, waiting for the 18 crew members to board. Most of us had only met each other during the launch event the day before. Soccer games, dhow races, speeches and merriment (and our first taste of the media deluge we’d be met with at every stop on our journey) culminated in an expedition briefing and crew introductions. We were a bunch of plastic fanatics from all over the globe – a crew as colourful as the Flipflopi herself, including scientists, communications specialists and…

HOW TO GET THERE Flights to Japan start from R10 000 with Emirates. emirates.com NEED TO KNOW South Africans need a visa. I acquired mine (R360) at the Japanese consulate in Cape Town. za.emb-japan.go.jp WHEN TO GO Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are generally the best times, with little rain, clear skies and mild temperatures. You’ll also get to see the spring cherry blossoms or colourful autumn leaves. ABOUT WALK JAPAN Founded in 1992, Walk Japan designs tours to discover the Land of the Rising Sun. It has a wide range of scheduled walks, but also offers private, customised tours tailored to your interests. Wherever possible, you stay in local, Japanese-style accommodation. When a hotel is used, it’s of the three- to four-star variety. Guides are…

Roger and Pat de la Harpe Namaqualand, page 81 Freelance photographers and writers based in the Garden Route, Roger and Pat share a passion for conservation, natural history, wild places and indigenous cultures. Even when they’re out exploring the back roads on their e-bikes, their cameras are with them. Roger says the bikes have opened up a whole new world for them, taking them to places they’d never usually go. It’s a new way to adventure – and a new way to see familiar places, such as Namaqualand in flower season. Carinè Müller East African coast, page 88 Who turns down the opportunity to join a National Geographic Okavango expedition? Certainly not Carinè, who left her job in magazines and gave up her flat and life in Cape Town when…

I had a request to curate an adventure experience for Sara Koller, a traveller from Germany, and we ended up exploring the waterfalls of the Krom River in the Limietberg Nature Reserve near Wellington. I saw this beautiful network of tree roots and took the shot with my new GoPro Hero 7 with super-wide-angle feature. – Henk Brand, Cape Town (@thesecretsadventurer) WIN! Tag us in your images on Instagram @GetawayMagazine and stand a chance of winning a R500 Cape Union Mart gift voucher. capeunionmart.co.za…

Out of the planktonic gloom, an alarmingly large, wide-mouthed creature appeared. Whale sharks are the largest fish in the world and there are few things that will take your breath away quite like your first encounter with one. They may have teeth like sandpaper and a gullet the size of a cricket ball, but your adrenaline kicks in regardless when you see one of these ‘sea-monsters’ heading your way. I spent a lot of time ‘back peddling’, as the shark’s curiosity got the better of her. She seemed to be following me in a slow-motion game of tag. Remora suckerfish clung to her sides and pilot fish led her through the ocean like a tug boat towing a cruise liner. While whale sharks can often be found around St Helena…

The gastronomic journey of two friends has taken them from a cooking school in Pretoria to the culinary academies and Michelin-star kitchens of Italy. On their days off, while drinking cheap Lambrusco, Tyeya Ngxola and Tim Stewart would talk about opening their own restaurant: the menu would be a map of South Africa, with dishes representing places that hold cherished memories or associations. With La Petite Maison, they’ve done it, opening their little bistro and wine bar (it seats around 20 people) in Melville earlier this year. ‘Conveying a sense of place through food is all about telling a story,’ says Tim. ‘Often we’ll sit down and share a childhood memory or an interesting aspect of SA food culture. Sometimes it’s about the ingredient and where it’s found. We hope…

HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 20 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Pringle Bay, she created a longlist of 30 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT I FOUND ABOUT ACCOMMODATION HERE • This charming coastal enclave has it all – a mountain backdrop, rich fynbos, a reed-fringed river emptying onto a pristine beach, and rural in atmosphere. No high walls, no streetlights, dirt roads, open plots. I looked for properties that made the most of this natural beauty,…

I found the source of the Tugela River on the slopes of Mont-aux-Sources on a misty day. A three-hour hike from the Sentinel car park via the chain ladders brought me to the top of the Drakensberg’s Amphitheatre, where a tiny trickle springs from the Earth. Wild grass covered the narrow, gentle-sloping valley leading to the source. The air smelled of wet earth and animal dung. The heavy clouds absorbed sound and all I could hear was the tinkle of a goat bell on a ridge above me. I sat down, savouring the stillness and thrill of anticipation for the journey ahead that would take me to the Indian Ocean. ‘THE RIVER WAS A CHURNING, SWIRLING, BUBBLING TORRENT OF MUD’ Following the stream down the valley I came upon a…

It’s such a pleasure that visitors are a priority for Zim/Zam custom officials who have got things so right at the border of both countries. Crossing into Zambia from Zimbabwe was a breeze – all in, it took about 10 minutes. Mcali Mulenga, the driver who collected me at the Zambian gate took my passport to be stamped, while I sat feeling cool in the air-conditioned bus. ‘It’s no problem to move quickly between the countries,’ he continued on his return, ‘and many Zims cross the border for a Friday night – the drinks are cheaper here.’ Drinks are a lifesaver in Livingstone because it gets so damn hot. Three minutes down the road by car from the border you can buy one in a sublime setting at The Royal…

It’s 6 February 1979. My parents are on a week’s holiday in Victoria Falls. My father is 45, my mother 47. After four daughters and 19 years, they are finally celebrating the honeymoon they didn’t take in 1960. They are staying at the grand Victoria Falls Hotel, and my mother has brought her finery – she wears a pearl necklace and a long dress in the evenings. She smells of Rive Gauche; the famous blue bottle stands on the dressing table in their hotel room. My father wears a suit for dinner. His jacket pocket holds a box of Country Club cheroots. During the day they explore, meet other holiday makers and express their love for each other. Some of the time they sit down to write postcards to my…

Close your eyes and breathe in. The scent of lavender is rather calming, don’t you think? Now listen. Can you hear the thousands of bees and bumblebees buzzing around the bushes? Welcome to lavender season in Provence, when the rolling fields of the French countryside are emblazoned with the purple shades of this scented shrub. The well-known local author, Jean Giono, said, ‘Lavender is the soul of Provence,’ and many agree. Entire menus are composed around it, but it’s best enjoyed when infused into ice cream or honey. Blooms are best in July when visitors spend their days roaming the countryside from the Luberon hills to Valensole (where this photo was taken), visiting monks who lovingly grow the herb, and exploring the beautiful towns in between. July, of course, is…

My route was a tale of two drives: the highway from Joburg down to the Tugela, and the back roads that took me along it. I was in the fifth-generation Forester SUV and it handled both with nonchalance. The adaptive cruise control was fun to use, leaving me to do nothing but steer, and the reverse automatic braking and pre-collision braking also help with ensuring a safe journey. X-Mode is a similar device for off-roading that automatically adjusts the throttle power in difficult driving conditions. The standard features (such as seven airbags and direct fuel injection) and competitive price ensure good value for money, which has seen this model become Subaru’s top seller since January. From R438 000. subaru.co.za…

HOW HE GOT THE SHOTS While sitting in an Outback bar, a road-train driver said to him, ‘Coonabarabran? Oh, come on, mate. There’s f***-all there.’ The next day he followed him there and beyond, to make something out of nothing. Obie says photography is like design. He poses lines, shapes and colours in some kind of harmony. Often he’ll cloak objects and scenes with a subtle light. In the image above, he used a two-second time exposure to catch the passing of a road-train, and posed himself with a small torch to light up the sign. ‘Damn, how I would have loved to add that sign to my collection at home. Next time, mate!’ ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER Obie Oberholzer has been photographing the world since the 1970s, and has journeyed…

Look out for them in the shake of a branch – a flash of colour, a timorous heartbeat. There are grand displays to be had, and the search for small creatures often delivers much larger ones, walk-on parts in a wild play that will have you standing in your seat. They say it’s the little things that count. The theatre was Tembe Elephant Park and a lioness was about to enter, stage left. We could see her in the wings, poised, resolute. A stop to enjoy the antics of a yellow-throated longclaw had revealed the lioness in the distance. We edged closer until we saw another lioness standing on the grassy plain, centre stage. Her demeanour told us that she felt vulnerable. Her ears were trained forward, eyes locked on…

WHEN TO GO Flower season is from late July to late September. The flowers are best in full sun and won’t open if it’s cold, windy or overcast. Info offices in every town can tell you what is flowering, or get updates on the Flowerline, 072-760-6019. NEED TO KNOW Bicyclesouth.co.za lists bike-rental places, including a few in the Cape that rent out e-bikes. You’ll need a trailer or bakkie to transport them. STAY HERE Middelpos Hotel is the archetypal dorpie hotel (and the only place to stay in town), with basic rooms and plentiful plaaskos. From R480 pp sharing DBB. 027-341-2507 Rock Ridge Manor in Loeriesfontein offers clean, comfortable self-catering on the outskirts of town. From R400 pp sharing. 079-547-2986, rockridge.co.za Gannabos, 35km from Nieuwoudtville, is a delightful, eco-friendly…

GETTING THERE There are direct flights to Livingstone from Joburg, Cape Town and Nelspruit, from R3 700 return (travelstart.co.za). I crossed the border from Zimbabwe at Victoria Falls. Livingstone CBD is a 15-minute drive from the border. NEED TO KNOW South Africans do not require a visa to visit Zambia. Livingstone is an elephant corridor – self-drive visitors should be on the look-out for elephants on the road all year round. Bushtracks Africa has a Victoria Falls activities app which is an instant-booking system. bushtracksafrica.com STAY HERE The David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa is 7km from the CBD, and right on the edge of the Zambezi. All rooms have balconies which overlook the river. From R2 400 pp sharing B&B. safpar.com/lodges Victoria Falls Waterfront, next to The David Livingstone…