Getaway March 2019

Some years ago, I had the privilege of exploring remote corners of Kaokoland. The journey left a powerful impression – a high point of my travelling life. Landing on a gravel airstrip, I was met by guide Chris Bakkes. ‘Welcome to paradise,’ he said, shaking my hand and leading me to a waiting 4x4. A big man with Medusa hair, fiery beard and one arm (the other was severed by a crocodile), Chris looked like the ultimate wild man of the north-west. But Chris had also written books on the region and been involved in conservation with Wilderness Safaris. Early next morning, we packed a Land Rover and set off north. We left the basalt heights of the Etendeka Mountains, crossed grasslands dotted with welwitschias, traversed gravel plains and cut…

Carla Geyser Southern Africa, page 82 Eco-warrior and humanitarian, Carla has been adventuring across Africa for the past decade, blazing trails and connecting with women who are doing phenomenal things to protect Africa’s natural wonders. Carla believes that one person can make a difference – and she plans to be that person. She’s just returned from an all-female conservation SOS mission around Southern Africa and has amazing stories and photos to share. Alexandra Findlay and Luke Bell Iceland, page 96 Both fans of a road trip, particularly those accompanied by audiobooks and snacks, Alexandra and Luke headed north – far north – for their next one. Armed with thermal clothing, crampons (spiky boot attachments – yes, they also had to google it), cameras and enthusiasm, these two Capetonians swapped sunny…

Many people don’t like the idea of cruise ships, and I can understand why. There are a lot of bad cruise ships out there, with loudspeakers and children and greasy cruise directors urging passengers to have a cocktail and play some volleyball in the pool: the kind of cruise ships David Foster Wallace wrote about in A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again; the kind that make you stand at the bow in the Indian Ocean, scanning the horizon, wishing you would strike an iceberg and sink. Of course those aren’t the only kind of cruise ships, but that’s still not the point. A certain kind of traveller – as a Getaway reader, you’re probably one, and good on you – doesn’t like the idea because cruise ships aren’t…

Reading the article ‘Table Mountain: Trails Less Travelled’ (December 2018) brought back a flood of memories from my youth, specifically the two times I climbed the mountain as a teenager in the mid-70s. I met with some hikers from my church’s youth group at a pre-arranged place early one morning during the September school holidays. We were filled with a sense of adventure, all of us ready to take on the indomitable Table Mountain. We climbed via Kasteelspoort, which took us to Breakfast Rock, a destination midway up the mountain. I was delighted to find that this traverse was ‘a walk in the park’ for me. The next time, we went up Plattekloof Gorge, which was more strenuous and a bit of a crawl. We went right to the top…

Diani Beach, Kenya. – Khuli Mnisi Fisherman’s Village (Bophut) on Koh Samui, Thailand. – Silindile Dube Sossusvlei, Namibia. – Wesley Laing Marloth Park near Kruger. Best hosts and houses in the Lowveld – a magical experience. – BriZac Williams Buffalo Bay, Garden Route. Endless beaches, superb swimming, surfing, rock pools and access to hiking spots. – Hilana Steyn Drakensberg and Tsitsikamma hiking trails: rocky mountains, rivers, waterfalls, sleeping in tents, backpacks, sunrise and sunsets. – Lerato Monyatsi My vote goes to Chobe. Heaven on Earth. – Eugene Hugo A treehouse hidden in Mokala National Park, Northern Cape. A hidden gem, and my absolute favourite. – Johny Blue Amari Havodda Maldives. – Zandile M…

The first time I went to the Kruger National Park, I was six weeks old. We go at least once a year and every time I leave the park, a piece of my heart stays behind. On our last trip, I left the camp early to drive the S147 road. We’d heard rumours about a leopard and cub on that road. I know that the animals don’t stay in one place, but I also know that leopards are territorial, so it was worth a shot. I drove at 10 kilometres per hour, determined to find them. I took a loop which went closer to the dry riverbed, and looked all around and in the tree right next to me. I felt like all my years of going to Kruger had…