Innholdsfortegnelse for Get Into Dressmaking i Get Into Dressmaking

Always measure yourself before you choose a pattern size. The sizing can vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so don’t just assume you’re a particular size. Take all of your measurements, then compare them with the size chart (usually printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions sheet inside). Measure yourself in your underwear, and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. For accuracy, use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body. You can measure yourself standing in front of a mirror, but for best results ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting in the right places. Make sure the tape measure sits snugly around you, but that it…

PRINTABLE PATTERN! Download The Lara Set PDF sewing pattern at www.gathered.how/lara MORE PATTERNS The Lara Set, available as a free download to readers of Get Into Dressmaking, is just one of many stylish patterns available to buy in PDF format from Simply Sewing’s Etsy store at: simplysewingpatterns.etsy.com YOU WILL NEED Dress ■ Main fabric: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 2.7m (3yds); 140cm (55in) width x 2m (2¼yds) for all sizes ■ Invisible zip: 56cm (22in) Top ■ Main fabric: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 2.1m (2¼yds); 140cm (55in) width x 1.4m (1½yds) for all sizes ■ Contrast fabric: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 0.8m (1yd); 140cm (55in) width x 0.7m (¾yds) for all sizes ■ Invisible zip: 20cm (8in) Dress and top ■ Hook and eye ■ Matching thread ■…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Pashmina ■ Bias binding: 50cm (20in) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Basic sewing kit ■ Matching thread CREATING THE TOP Step one Fold the pashmina in half with tasselled ends together and the folded edge at the top – this is where the neckline will be. The side seams are already finished so they won't need hemming. Step two From the folded end, mark how long you would like your top to be and add a hem allowance of approx 2.5cm (1in). Step three Cut off the tasselled ends. 01 Step four With the folded edge at the top, mark out your neckline using a dinner plate or another round item. The bigger the neckline, the slouchier the top. You can use an existing top as…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 1.5m x 115cm (1¾yd x 45in) ■ Wide elastic: 1m (1⅛yd) (see notes for details) ■ Snap stud/button ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED A lightweight, drapey crepe or viscose fabric would work well for this skirt. We used a rust floral print viscose from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk NOTES Q 1.5m (1¾yd) of 115cm (45in) width fabric will make a skirt up to approx a UK size 16. For sizes larger than this you may need to purchase 140cm (55in) width fabric. Q The elastic requirement will depend on your waist measurement. MEASURING UP Step one Measure your waist and divide by two – this will be the width for each of the two front pieces of the skirt that wrap over each other.…

Where would be without the humble zip? The zip (zipper in the US) is a wonderful invention used in all types of sewing for fastening everything from dresses to cushions. Did you know the word zip is onomatopoetic, named for the sound the device makes when used? There are so many options, from different construction types to the various ways they close and open. Follow our guide to choose the right one for your garment, bag or home project. HOW TO MEASURE A ZIP Zips are usually listed in centimetres and inches and they’re measured from one stop to the other. The extra tape either side of these stops is not counted when measuring the zip. You can shorten a closed-end zip by simply over-sewing the end to form a…

One of the basic sewing skills everyone should know is how to sew on a button. Obviously this is essential for sewing buttons back on which have fallen off, but it’s important to sew them on securely so they won’t fall off again. When buttons are sewn onto shop-bought garments this is done using a machine in the factory. If the beginning or the end of the thread is not secured really tightly then the button can easily fall off, by just pulling the thread. Then there are your own makes – you don’t want to lovingly craft a tailored garment, only to have the button fall off on first wearing (especially if it’s a gift!). When it comes to making buttonholes, there are several different ways to make them,…

SET-IN SLEEVES These have a reputation for being tricky, but it’s easy when you know how! Try the technique with these simple steps. Set-in sleeves are larger than the armhole so the sleeve head can be gathered to fit for a smooth, even finish – this is also known as ease. There should be no gathers or tucks on the right side of the sleeve. If you do end up with a few, though, don’t panic! These can easily be unpicked, smoothed out and re-sewn as you go. MAKING THE SLEEVE Step one Finish the sleeve underarm raw edges. Step two Stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the arrows of the sleeve head within the seam allowance. Step three Fold the sleeve in half with right sides (RS) facing…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Jersey fabric: 1.75 x 115cm (1¾yd x 45in) ■ Elastic tape: 3cm (1¼in) x your waist measurement ■ Top and trousers or jeans, to use as a template ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Ruler or pattern master ■ Pattern paper ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Printed unicorn jersey from www.stoffstil.co.uk NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ We recommend using a stretch stitch to sew the seams. If you don’t have a specialist stretch stitch use a narrow width zigzag stitch which will give the stitch a little stretch. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like the shorts or top to be longer, or if you are making the pyjamas larger than a UK size…

YOU WILL NEED Q Jersey fabric: 1m x 140cm (40 x 55in) Q A jersey T-shirt that fits you Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit NOTES Q Use a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance throughout. Q A dress up to a UK size 16 will fit on a fabric width of 140cm (45in). For larger sizes or a longer length dress you may need to purchase wider fabric or increase the amount needed to 2m (2¼yd). Q To make this project simple we traced directly onto the fabric and cut it out, so there is no paper pattern to draw, cut and trace. If you are unsure whether the dress will fit, then cut it with extra seam allowance all the way around so you can adjust if necessary. CUTTING…

APPLIQUÉ Stitching A small piece of fabric on top of another, usually for decoration. This can be done by hand often using blanket stitch or by machine using a zigzag stitch. BACKSTITCH Also called reverse stitch, this is done at the beginning and end of a seam to prevent it from coming undone. It’s also used to describe an embroidery stitch where the stitches are worked backwards so they touch each other to form a solid line of stitching. BIAS The stretchiest part of the fabric, which runs diagonally to the selvedge or straight grain. BINDING A method to encase the raw edges of the fabric using a narrower strip of fabric. Ready-made bias binding can be used for this, or fabric strips cut on the bias. BOBBIN A plastic…

Lightweight fabrics Lightweight fabrics should be laid out and cut in one layer. Don’t cut lightweight or slippery fabrics on the fold as the fabric will shift and your pattern piece will not be symmetrical. Instead trace the pattern piece off so that it’s one whole piece. Don’t use pins to attach the pattern as these can leave holes in the delicate fabric, but opt for pattern weights to hold your pattern in place. Fabrics such as chiffon can be sandwiched between two layers of tissue paper, then with your pattern pieces on top, cut through the tissue paper layers and fabric in one go. This stops the fabric from shifting about. Always use your sharpest scissors to cut fine fabrics as they will snag very easily. Heavyweight fabrics Fabrics…

We just can’t get enough of prints. Florals, geometrics, stripes, checks – you name it, we love it. But deciding where to pattern match when you make a garment can be tricky, as it’s not always possible to pattern match on every seam. The first thing to look at is whether the pattern on the fabric runs in one direction, as it’s important that each pattern piece is cut in the same direction. If the fabric has a bold motif it’s best not to cut your pattern pieces on the fold. Instead, cut out one half, flip the pattern piece and then cut out the other half, or trace it as one whole piece before cutting out – this is the most accurate way of making sure that the pattern…

SEW YOUR OWN IN AN HOUR! Debbie says: “Adding a trim to the hem is a quick and simple way to revamp plain tees - I've used lace, but a pom pom or tassel trim would work well, too.” YOU WILL NEED ■ An oversized T-shirt ■ Lace trim: 2m (2.yd) (see notes) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES You will need enough lace trim to fit around the bottom of the T-shirt. MATERIALS USED We used embroidered flower edge trim in black from Sew Crafty Online. www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk ADDING THE TRIM Step one Cut the bottom off the T-shirt – we made ours so it will sit on the natural waistline but you can cut yours to any length you like. You might like to maintain the original…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Medium-weight woven fabric: 2m x 115cm (2¼yd x 45in) ■ Narrow double-fold bias binding ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED The fabric used is Verona Peachskin in Red from Fabric Godmother. Find it at www.fabricgodmother.co.uk NOTES ■ The solar plexus is the point midway between your bust and belly button. TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Step one This dress is a trapeze shape with armholes. Shaping is provided by a gathering at the neck and a tie at the waist. You can create the paper template using the instructions below, or draw directly into the fabric. Step two You will need to make the following calculations to create the template: 1) Desired length + 2cm (¾in) turning allowance at neckline (top) and 2cm (¾in) hem…

Preparing your fabric before you sew does take a little time but it’s worth it in the long run. It saves you from having to unpick mistakes and you’ll also get a neater finish. Pin, tack and then stitch is the golden rule – particularly if you are a beginner, as it’ll help with accuracy. Although a sewing machine can be used for a lot of projects, some hand stitches are also necessary so it’s important to understand these and practise them first before starting a project. PINNING The first step! Pins are vital for stopping your fabric moving about while you’re sewing. For larger projects, insert pins at right angles to the edge of your fabric, about 15cm (6in) apart. For smaller projects, insert your pins much closer together.…

Stitching two or more layers of fabric together is called seaming. It’s the basic skill needed and there are several different types of seams. The most important thing is that you stitch the same distance from the raw edges for a neat and even finish – luckily, your sewing machine has marks to guide you with this, and your pattern will tell you the seam allowance measurement to use. Once you’ve mastered sewing a simple straight seam, you might like to experiment with other seam finishes – making the inside as pretty as the outside is one of the joys of sewing clothes! WHICH SEAM TO SEW? There are several different types of seams you can use depending on the finish you want, your fabric type, where the seam is…

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MAXI DRESS YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: lightweight or drapey viscose 150cm (60in) width x 2m (2¼yds) ■ Elastic: at least 1.5cm (5/8in) wide and as long as your bust measurement ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Woven viscose mint with paisley print from www.stoffstil.co.uk SIZING The instructions and measurements given here should achieve the desired outcome on a UK 10-16. We are using the full width of the fabric 150cm (60in) on a model with a 34-36in bust and calculate that these instructions should suit up to around a 42in bust. If you are under a UK size 10 then you can reduce the width of the rectangles you cut to avoid too much gathering and fullness. If you are larger than a UK size 16 you can increase…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A loose-fitting top to use as a template ■ Main fabric: 65 x 140cm (26 x 55in) ■ Narrow satin or cotton bias binding: 1.5m (1¾yd) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit RECOMMENDED FABRICS A soft fabric that drapes well, such as a crepe viscose, cotton voile or sandwashed silk. NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ The instructions given are to make a top that fits up to a UK size 16. You will need more fabric if you would like to make a longer or larger top. ■ You may find it more economical to draft the pattern for the top onto paper first and then purchase fabric, depending on the width and length of your pieces. CUTTING…

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YOU WILL NEED ■ Top that fits to use as a template ■ Ponte or a similar stable knit: 2m (2¼yd) ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing ■ Paper to make the pattern ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Ponte Roma Jersey, Royal Blue from Sew Essential, www.sewessential.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, selvedge to selvedge. Fold your template top in half along the length and place the folded edge of the top along the folded edge of the fabric. 01 Step two Draw the shape of the dress directly onto the fabric using the template top as a guide. Closely follow the line of the shoulder line, back neckline and cuff. When it comes to the underarm, draw a curve to smoothly…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 2m x150cm (2¼yd x 55in) ■ Ruler and erasable fabric marker ■ Basic sewing kit ■ Matching thread NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance. ■ The instructions will create a multisize garment to fit a UK 8-16. For larger and smaller sizes, increase or decrease the width and length of fabric as required. FABRICS USED The fabric used is Classic Stripes in rayon from the AGF Studio collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. See more at www.liveartgalleryfabrics.com and find stockists at www.hantex.co.uk Designer Portia says: “Two simple squares or rectangles of fabric is all you need to make this stylish beach cover-up for lazy days on the beach.” CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Two rectangles measuring 75 x 100cm (30…

WASHING FABRIC Not all fabrics wash in the same way, so here’s how to ensure you use the best setting for your chosen material. It’s an age-old sewing debate: to pre-wash, or not to pre-wash? It may not seem like it, but washing your fabric is one of the most important steps in dressmaking. It’s vital for the longevity of your finished garment. Fabric can shrink and its dye can run, so – as much as we might want to skip this step and get stuck into sewing – it’s always best to pre-wash it before you start your project, either by hand or by machine. This depends on the fabric type and how you intend to wash the garment when it is made – wash it on the temperature…

Most handmade fabric items will need washing from time to time (especially your favourite garments!), and it’s important to know how to do this properly to keep them looking fresh and in good condition. It’s always best to wash all fabrics before you begin cutting or stitching them. Although the temptation is to get started on a project, taking the time to do this is really worth it. Fabric can shrink when washed and often at different rates. So, if you’re stitching several different fabrics together you may find that they shrink differently and you’ll have an uneven finished piece. Sometimes, especially if using vintage fabrics, the colours can run, so it’s best to get all this shrinking and excess dye release out of the way before you start stitching.…

1 Use the same colour of thread in the top and bottom spools for most of your stitching – only use different colours for decorative stitching. 2 Use the same type of thread in the top and bottom spools, as this will result in a more even tension. 3 Always ensure your fabric is flat and smooth, as you’ll get neater stitching. Pressing before you start is a good rule. 4 Always work a few stitches on a spare scrap of the same fabric you’ll be using to make sure that the machine tension is correct. Different thread and fabric will need different tensions, so check it whenever you start a new project. If your stitches are loopy or overly tight then you need the change the tension so that…

Adjusting sewing patterns can seem like an intimidating task, but once you’ve mastered a few of the key adjustments the sewing world will be your oyster! After you’ve worked out which adjustments work best for you, you can apply the same principles to any sewing pattern. If you’re new to pattern alterations, start by making a note of all of the adjustments you make to the next few patterns you sew. It’s also important to take accurate measurements and note these down (use the table on page 23), and to check these regularly so you have up-to-date measurements to work with. Before you cut out your main fabric, it’s best to always make a toile (a test garment), or muslin, after altering a pattern so you can check the fit…

Abi says: “This tutorial is great for all sewing abilities. This would work on multiple fabrics - I’ve even added the pockets to a jersey dress.” YOU WILL NEED ■ Skirt ■ Fabric for pockets: see instructions for details ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit MAKING A TEMPLATE The size of your pocket will depend on your garment – for this skirt Abi went by eye. Step one To make your template, fold a piece of paper in half and draw one half of a heart. Step two Cut the whole heart out and pin it to your garment to give you an idea of the size, then redraw if necessary. Step three Once you’re happy with the size of the heart, retrace it and add a 1cm (⅜in)…

MAKE YOUR OWN IN AN EVENING! Lana says: “If you want more detail on your embroidered slogan design, you could add pom pom trim, ric rac braid or beading inside your stitching lines.” YOU WILL NEED ■ A jumper or sweatshirt ■ Stranded cotton in your choice of colours ■ Pins ■ A printer and paper ■ Embroidery needle ■ Air or water soluble pen This upcycled top is a great way to get to grips with backstitch while giving your wardrobe a refresh! We’ve come up with a fun and friendly slogan here, but the sky’s the limit with this project – you can come up with any phrase you like to make a jumper that’s truly personal for you. HOW TO MAKE THE JUMPER Step one Play with…

When working with commercial sewing patterns, you’ll often be instructed to ‘finish the raw edges’ before or after sewing the seams. The stitch type you choose to finish the raw edges of a garment with will affect the appearance of a seam, the garment’s overall life-span and its comfort when worn. There are many ways to finish a raw edge – pinking shears, zigzag stitching and binding are just a few – but overlocking has become a firm favourite as it provides a quick-to-sew, long-lasting and professionallooking finish. While overlockers were once the preserve of clothing factories, in the last 50 years domestic overlocking machines have become widely available and more affordable, making them appealing to home sewists. For many stitchers, however, deciding whether to purchase an overlocker in addition…

Hems are the crucial finishing touch for every garment and many home sewing projects, so it’s important to choose, work and finish them properly. They can be worked with your sewing machine or by hand – here, we show you how to hem using your sewing machine. We’ve covered the most popular hem types and shared some tips to help you work them as neatly as possible on your machine. CHOOSING A HEM There are many types of hem and you need to consider several factors when choosing one, such as the shape and style of your garment, the weight and drape of the fabric and how visible it may be. The width of the hem is also crucial. Generally, the fuller the fabric, the narrower the hem so minimal…

Skirts and dresses are much improved by the addition of pockets to pop your phone in (or tape measure!) and keep your hands cosy. It’s simple to add a pocket to a pattern that doesn’t already include one, or to sew a pocket into an existing garment from your wardrobe. A seamed pocket is formed from a bag attached to the seam allowances of side or panel seams, and can be added to any garment with a side seam. CHOOSING A FABRIC You can make your pockets from the same fabric as the rest of the garment so that they blend in, or, if you want some contrast, make them in a different colour or patterned fabric. The pocket won’t show from the outside until you put your hand in…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Light- to medium weight fabric: approx 2m x 152cm (2¼yd x 60in) (see notes) ■ Light- to medium-weight iron-on interfacing: 1m x 20cm (1⅛yd x 9in) (see notes) ■ Buttons ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Fabric and interfacing requirements will depend on the size you would like to make. The amounts listed will be enough to make a midi length skirt in UK sizes 6–16. For a longer or larger size skirt you will need more fabric. FABRICS USED ■ Aqua Viscose Linen Slub Fabric Ref: MODLV130724-5038 from Hantex. For stockists visit hantexonline.co.uk A button front dirndl skirt is a classic that will never go out of style. Even better, there’s no pattern required. The main body of the skirt is made…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A large rectangular or tube scarf in lightweight fabric ■ Jersey fabric: approx 50 x 115cm (20x45in) ■ Elastic lace ribbon: 60cm (24in) ■ Elastic tape: approx 15cm (6in) x 1cm wide (6 x ⅜in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance. ■ You will need a slightly bigger scarf and a larger width and height of stretchy fabric for a dress larger than a UK size 16. “You’ll tick off lots of skills with this beginnerfriendly summer dress project – sewing with jersey, stitching with lightweight scarf fabrics, drafting your own pattern and working with elastic and lace,” says designer Karoline. CUTTING OUT Step one For the bottom part of the dress you need a round tube…

YOU WILL NEED ■ 2.5m (2¾yds) of medium-weight fabric ■ Measuring tape ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Printed textured cotton fabric by Seasalt Cornwall. Available to buy from www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk NOTE Q The seam allowance is 1cm (⅜in) unless otherwise stated. CUTTING THE FRONT BAND Step one Fold the fabric in half, raw edge to raw edge and with selvedges aligned down the sides. From the folded top edge cut a strip 12cm (4¾in) wide from the entire length of the fabric. Note that the length of this strip will dictate the maximum length of your jacket as this is the piece that will wrap around your neck and extend along the opening to the hem. 01 Step two If you are using…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1.5m x 135cm (1¾yd x 53in) ■ Elastic tape: approx 3-5cm (1¼-2in) wide x your waist measurement ■ High waisted jeans in your size to measure from (see notes) ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (⅜in) unless otherwise stated. ■ If you do not have high waisted jeans remember to add extra height at the waistband. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like the culottes to be longer/wider, or to make a size larger than a UK 16. ■ If you are unsure whether the trousers will fit, add more seam allowance all around to give you some extra to play with. MATERIALS USED Woven viscose, ref: 710498 Elastic tape, ref:…