Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2025 i Food & Wine

2022 PIERO MANCINI CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA ($22) On a trip to Charleston, I headed to Tutti, a new pizza place from the owners of Graft Wine Shop. Chilled glasses of this juicy Sardinian red paired perfectly with a stellar pepperoni-and-Calabrian-chile pizza. Owners Miles White and Femi Oyediran teamed up with chef Anthony Guerra to make this a do-not-miss spot. 2023 MATTHIASSON LOS CARNEROS CRESSIDA VINEYARD VERMENTINO ($32) Charleston’s Sorelle features a gorgeous dining room and innovative cooking from chef Nick Dugan. His branzino, filleted tableside, is delicious—and it pairs beautifully with viticulturist Steve Matthiasson’s crisp, stony take on a classic Italian white wine variety. Kudos to lead sommelier Angel Prado for the suggestion. NV LAURENT-PERRIER LA CUVÉE BRUT ($65) I had the honor of being inducted into the Ordre…

WITH SUCH LIMITED SPACE in my New York City apartment, I have a couple of rules when it comes to the ingredients in my kitchen—no single-use items, and certainly no duplicates of the same ingredient. But there’s one category where I make an exception: mustard. This is especially true during summer, when I lean on different kinds of mustards to add easy oomph and interest to everything from sandwiches to snack plates and grilled dinners. Here’s everything you need to know about the six essential mustard types—and how to make them your summer’s MVPs. 1. WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD Coarsely textured with a popping crunch, whole-grain mustard is made by combining black, brown, and yellow mustard seeds with water and white vinegar until just soft enough to form a rough paste. Whole-grain…

CONTRARY TO CERTAIN culinary stereotypes, hungry visitors to Stockholm aren’t limited to pickled weeds served with moose trotter over a bed of smoked forest moss. This dogmatic approach to local produce was the hallmark of the New Nordic philosophy that dominated the food scene in the Swedish capital in the mid-aughts. No longer. Today, a new cohort of chefs is looking outward, reaching beyond the Nordic pantry and bringing global inspiration—and a more casual approach—back to the city from travels and stints abroad. Love brought me to Stockholm 12 years ago (from another great food city: Melbourne, Australia), and I’ve been lucky to have had a front-row seat to the evolution of its food scene since. Despite writing a cookbook in 2015 celebrating Scandinavian cuisine, many of my favorite dishes…

BACK WHEN I WAS LEARNING TO COOK, I kept failing at risotto. One night, the head chef grabbed my pan and hammered it with more butter than I ever imagined the dish could handle. “Dude,” he said, “the rice is just a vehicle to put flavorful fat in your mouth.” That made sense. You’d never drink a cup of olive oil or eat a stick of plain butter, but if you emulsify the fat, then whether it’s blended or dipped in, drizzled or slathered on, you’ve got the move that makes the dish. At Dad’s Luncheonette, my restaurant in Half Moon Bay, California, we make sandwiches. So our emulsified fat is mayonnaise. We want our mayo to be lick-the-spoon good, so we make it from scratch, streaming in an…

FOOD CONNECTS ME TO TIME and place. My mom’s onion-raisin pie means it’s Thanksgiving at my aunt’s in Ohio. Tomato-tinted rice takes me to a dining table lined with extended family for a Jewish holiday. I eat Thai takeout on the couch for my birthday. And on the summer weekends when I get together with my tight-knit group of college friends at my friend Chloe’s house in Bedford, New York, we eat Bedford Pasta Salad. This food tradition came about by accident. I found myself cooking for my gaggle of friends (as I often do), looking to make something quick and satisfying that could be prepared in advance of a day filled with tennis, pool games, and beer pong tournaments. It was late August, and Chloe’s dad’s vegetable garden…

Life in Jars AS MUCH AS I ENJOYED LEARNING to make jam from scratch in this issue (see “Get Into a Jam” on p. 39), I’ll never be able to give up my Bonne Maman habit—those empty glass jars with the red-and-white checkered lid have become my kitchen MVPs. I keep six on hand, repurposing them as storage containers for the homemade sauces, dressings, and condiments I make on a weekly basis—especially olive oil–based sauces like salsa verde, chimichurri, and vinaigrettes. Opening the fridge and seeing the jars full of possibilities inspires my summer cooking—they offer a shortcut to flavor at a time when dinner prep should be inherently easier thanks to the season’s abundant produce. They’re easy to make and can be prepared ahead of time and stored in…

HOMEMADE JAM TRANSFORMING FRUIT INTO JARS of homemade jam can feel like a magic trick, and there is a kind of magic in the age-old craft. Rather than using a box of processed pectin, the finest jams rely on evaporation and the fruits’ natural pectin to achieve a luscious, spoonable texture. The difference between mediocre jam and one that truly sings lies in a few key elements: impeccable fruit, a good balance of flavors, and proper technique. This may come as a surprise, but perfectly ripe fresh fruit for eating is not ideal for jam-making. That’s because as fruit ripens, its pectin levels decrease. For the best jam, choose fruit that is ripe but still slightly firm. Frozen fruit, which is usually picked somewhat firm, also works well for making…

ITALY, THE LAND OF RED WINE! Chianti with wild boar ragù, Barolo with white truffles, porchetta with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo—wait. Stop. Throw that Fiat into reverse. A lot of the great wines of Italy are white. And, even better, they’re ideal for summer drinking. It might come as a surprise, but Italy produces more white (60%) than red wine, led by the regions of Veneto, Puglia, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily. The most common varieties are Trebbiano, which largely but by no means exclusively goes into inexpensive bottles for the local market; Pinot Grigio, the most exported white variety; and, semisurprisingly, Chardonnay. (I’m leaving aside Glera, the grape of Prosecco; that’s a different story.) But for me, the true joy lies in Italy’s less well-known, native varieties. Coastal Vermentinos from Liguria and Sardinia…

FOR ME, SUMMERS IN KOREA have always been synonymous with watermelon. Office workers tote them home in braided slings for an evening treat, and guests bring bow-tied melons sold at department stores as a treasured host gift. Watermelon (subak in Korean) is also the star of two popular Korean drinks: subak hwachae and subak soju. Both are incredibly refreshing punches perfect for a party, and both use watermelon as the main ingredient as well as the serving vessel. The first is subak hwachae: Hwachae translates to “flower water.” It’s a sweet and creamy punch that dates back to the late Joseon dynasty (1392–1910), when it was often served adorned with flowers at royal banquets. These days, hwachae can include apples, strawberries, peaches, and tangerines, but the most popular version…

BOUNTIFUL IN WARM-WEATHER MONTHS, mint grows like a weed from late spring all through summer. That’s when you’ll find an abundance of varieties sold in bunches at the farmers market and available as starter plants at your local nursery, ready for a spot on the patio or a sunny windowsill. Whether you pluck them from your garden or pick them up at the store, mint’s fragrant, fresh sprigs and its characteristic cool, tingly, and subtly sweet effect are an easy way to add interest to a wide range of summer-ready dishes and drinks. Mint is fresh, forward, and versatile, the same way a crisp white shirt works with all of your summer outfits—there isn’t much that mint can’t match up with. It shines in cocktails, as a tisane, in…

IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER, there’s nothing more refreshing than a cool scoop of sorbet. And according to Geri-Martha O’Hara, pastry chef and co-owner of Big Spoon Creamery in Birmingham, Alabama, summer is the best time to make it. O’Hara spent four years working under the tutelage of chef Frank Stitt and pastry chef Dolester Miles at Highlands Bar & Grill, and she shares their ingredient-led philosophy. “Your in-season peaches, strawberries, blackberries—those all make great sorbets because of their natural pectin, so you don’t have to add much,” she says. “You can lean on the fruit to make a really good, straightforward sorbet.” To make O’Hara’s peach sorbet, start with the best fruit you can find. Bring it home, and wait until “the fruit has a nice fragrance at…

CHARCOAL DOESN’T get the credit it deserves. It’s a huge technological innovation: The result of heating wood without oxygen, charcoal burns longer and hotter than the wood it’s made from. It’s how humanity achieved the temperatures needed to smelt metals, ushering in the Bronze and Iron ages. It’s no exaggeration to say that without charcoal, modern civilization as we know it would not exist. But today, we primarily see charcoal as a cooking medium for our charcoal grills. As a fuel for grilling, it’s more controllable than wood and contributes more charred and smoky flavor than propane. To prepare you for barbecue season, we tested a dozen charcoal brands. Here are five of our favorites. Every product branded with the Food & Wine Faves logo has received the highest marks from the…

RED DRINK IS JUNETEENTH’S OFFICIAL BEVERAGE. Please gently put aside any jokes that comedian Dave Chappelle has made about the primacy of “grape drink.” Forget as well what anyone under 30 may say about blue drinks, orange drinks, or any other drinks of color. The type of red drink varies. We don’t obsess over whether the key ingredient is cherry, cranberry, hibiscus, raspberry, strawberry, or tropical fruit, as long as the drink in question has the correct color. When it comes to emancipation celebrations, it’s all about red, baby! Juneteenth is just one of a number of African American emancipation celebrations. It commemorates June 19, 1865, when—two and a half years after the Emancipation Proclamation went into effect—the Union Army major general for the District of Texas ordered from…

I CAN PROUDLY SAY that I’ve never tasted a cold lobster roll. There was never any need to. I grew up in Connecticut, where seafood shacks serving hot, buttery lobster rolls dot the shoreline in abundance. A Connecticut-style lobster roll is defined by its warmth and simplicity. Hot lobster meat is chopped into bite-size pieces and served in toasted, pillowy buns with a little bit of lemon juice and a whole lot of melted butter. Unlike its Maine-based relative, there’s no mayonnaise, no celery, and definitely no chilling. The bun is nearly as important as what’s tucked inside. For an authentic Connecticuter-approved bite, look for split-top brioche or potato hot dog buns, which have a rich, sweet flavor that pairs well with the lobster meat. Bonus points if you…