Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2025 i Food & Wine

I’M HARVESTING A 300-YEAR-OLD OLIVE TREE in central Italy. It’s a windy October day, and the silver-green leaves shimmer under the Tuscan sun. Using a small comb, I help Romain Piro brush his nearly ripened olives onto the net below us, trying my best not to smash the fruits that drop close to my feet. And then, the clock starts ticking. “The branch is an umbilical cord,” Piro says, explaining that the olives start to oxidize as soon as they leave the tree. The same day the fruits are harvested, they will be sent to Piro’s mill, where they will be crushed into a thick paste, slowly kneaded, and finally pressed to extract unfiltered olio nuovo, a robust liquid that is almost Day-Glo green. After resting the oil for three…

BEING SERVED IN A RESTAURANT is fraught with the possibility of mix-ups and accidents. Maybe your eggs were cooked incorrectly, maybe your order was never placed with the kitchen, or maybe a server spilled red wine on your white shirt. Everyone makes mistakes, but any mistake can be salvaged—it all depends on how you react. Here’s how to handle the most common restaurant screwups. 1 WHEN YOUR RESERVATION GETS LOST You arrive in time for your reservation, but there is no record of your name and no table available. Ideally, the restaurant will apologize and seat you as soon as possible—and maybe they’ll even offer you a complimentary drink while you wait. But if they’re insistent that you never made a reservation, then it’s time to pull out your receipts.…

Caramelized Carrot Tarte Tatin With Ginger ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR; SERVES 6 TO 8 Slender carrots are glazed in a zippy orange-and-ginger syrup in this striking, savory tart. Umami-rich fish sauce adds complexity and balances the dish’s sweetness. For a pop of fresh ginger flavor, press grated ginger through a fine wire-mesh strainer to extract the juice—discard the ginger solids, which are prone to burning. 2 lb. small (about 6 inches long) carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise2 Tbsp. olive oil¾ tsp. ground cumin1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided½ tsp. black pepper, divided1 (4-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled (see Note)¼ cup fresh orange juice3 Tbsp. granulated sugar3 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar3 Tbsp. unsalted butter¾ tsp. fish sauce1 (14-oz.) pkg. frozen puff pastry (such as Dufour Pastry Kitchens), thawedFresh dill, chopped…

PINOT NOIR IS RED, RIGHT? Well, yes. And no. Which is to say, it doesn’t have to be. Like almost all red grapes, the flesh of a Pinot Noir grape is pale green, which means that if you crush the grapes and drain the juice off the skins before it takes on any color, you will have a white wine. The Champenois, of course, have known about this for centuries—of the three primary grapes for Champagne, two of them (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) are red. Drink a glass of Veuve Clicquot Brut Yellow Label, for instance, and you’re drinking a wine made from 70% red grapes (50% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier). What’s more recent, though, is a growing trend of people making still white wines from Pinot…

ROY CHOI 2010 F&W Best New Chef Restaurant at the Time of Award Kogi BBQ, Los Angeles Legacy Through his career as a chef, television star, entrepreneur, culinary ambassador, and cookbook author, Choi has always stayed true to his passions and put people first. WHEN ROY CHOI FIRST OPENED KOGI BBQ, he thought his days of being a professional chef were over. “I left that world behind me, hung up my whites, and went off on this new journey to feed the streets,” he says. Choi had spent most of his career cooking at hotels, where the kitchens are often very traditional—you start as a line cook, work your way up, and, hopefully, eventually become executive chef. “At the time, there was only one path. The idea of becoming an…

THERE ARE two things that, when executed properly, have infinite transformative power: haircuts and whipped cream. I cannot help you with the former—I accidentally forgot about my face shape and got a blunt bob last month—but for the latter, I can offer a few suggestions. The first is that whipped cream can and should be a whole dessert. Good whipped cream disappears as quickly as a moody sky when the sun comes out or as a tuft of fresh snow melts. For that level of ethereality, a stand mixer fitted with the balloon whisk will serve you best. This version, with cocoa, buttermilk for tang, and a milk powder–fortified brown butter–chocolate sauce for a salty-drippy fudge, will become your go-to for a low-effort dessert. It’s visually stunning: Any light,…

If I could only eat one meal for the rest of my life, IT’D BE A LUMBERJACK SPECIAL: scrambled eggs with cheddar cheese, bacon, sausage, home fries, a single chocolate chip pancake, and bottomless coffee (obviously). Ideally, I’d be in a booth at one of my favorite diners. I grew up in coastal Connecticut, and on Sunday mornings, my family would drive to the Lakeside Diner in Stamford to linger over freshly made apple cider doughnuts, or to Gail’s Station House in Ridgefield, where we’d order rounds of cheddar-corn pancakes. I dream of them to this day. The diner is a uniquely American style of restaurant. Back in the late 1800s, small lunch carts in cities throughout the East Coast served hungry workers affordable meals all day and late into…

MICHAEL MINA TENDS TO GO ALL OUT. When Food & Wine asked the James Beard Award–winning celebrity chef to come up with a dinner party menu in April 2012, he delivered dishes that were equal parts classy and comforting. From hand-rolled strozzapreti pasta with lamb ragù to custards flavored with maple and bourbon, Mina showed off his range. To kick off the feast, he made a luxe version of deviled eggs, adding in smoked salmon, cornichons, and Old Bay seasoning. The end product was savory with a bit of heat and creamy with a touch of crunch. It’s a recipe Mina still loves, whether he’s having friends over for a football game or making canapés at an event. In that original F&W story, Mina said, “Deviled eggs are fun because…

EVERY PART OF A RESTAURANT is designed to tell a story, including its scent. On a recent visit to Lord’s, a British-inspired restaurant in New York City from 2023 F&W Best New Chef Ed Szymanski, I stepped into the restroom and was surrounded by the clean, crisp scents of palo santo, cedar, and fresh pine, transporting me to a cozy cabin with a wood-burning fireplace. The source of the intoxicating fragrance? The Wood Cabin candle from the company Keap. I loved it so much that I ordered one for my own home. Here are the candles used by savvy restaurateurs at some of the best restaurants in the country to impress guests with a fantastic-smelling bathroom. Light any one of them, and be transported. 1. KEAP WOOD CABIN Lord’s is…

YOU CAN’T TALK ABOUT KOREAN FOOD without mentioning our soup culture: Jjigae, which translates to “stew,” is at the heart of our cuisine. Big hearty pots of flavor-packed, shareable jjigae can be found bubbling at the center of the table at all hours of the day. Jjigae is comforting; it’s commonly served with rice, ramen, noodles, or sujebi (Korean noodles made from hand-torn dough). It is the first meal after a long overseas business trip or a casual night out drinking with friends. Two of the most popular and beloved Korean stews are Kimchi Jjigae (recipe below), an umami-rich stew with pork belly and kimchi, and Budae Jjigae (recipe p. 42), a comforting and eclectic combination of baked beans, Spam, cheese, and ramen. My hope is that you will fall…

If you love seafood, IRELAND IS ONE OF THE BEST PLACES IN THE WORLD to enjoy the fishy side of the menu. Astonishingly, this has not always been the case. You’d figure that, with its thousands of miles of coastline and its prime position as one of the North Atlantic’s richest fishing grounds, this island nation would be a venerable bastion of seafood cookery. Instead, the Irish have traditionally looked landward for their ingredients: beef and butter from Kerry cattle and heaping plates of bacon and cabbage. My own ancestors, the Pattersons of County Down, were forced to emigrate during the potato famine, when the lumpers they’d come to rely on turned to mush in the fields. Surrounded by the cold, clean waters of a bounteous sea, the Irish, bless…