Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2024 i Food & Wine

2022 ANDRÉ BRUNEL CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE ($17) If you need a super deal for any grilled-meat moment this summer or into the fall, it’s hard to beat this Grenache-dominant red, which is made by one of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s top producers. With its blackberry and black cherry flavors and supple tannins, it’s a no-brainer for burgers, sausages, steaks, and more. 2023 RODNEY STRONG ALEXANDER VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC ($25) Rodney Strong is known for its Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc, but its new Alexander Valley bottling adds Musque clone Sauvignon to amp up the wine’s floral, orange-blossom character. It’s intensely refreshing in an almost tingly way—ideal for a warm summer night. NV DOMAINE CARNEROS CUVÉE DE LA POMPADOUR BRUT ROSÉ ($45) I poured this graceful California sparkling wine for a seminar at the…

KWAME ONWUACHI 2019 F&W Best New Chef Restaurant at the Time of Award Kith/Kin, Washington, D.C. Current Restaurants Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi in New York City and Dōgon in Washington, D.C. Legacy With two books (and counting) and award-winning restaurants that center around a deeply personal rendition of the cuisine of the African diaspora, Onwuachi is a leader in making American cuisine more vibrant and inclusive. KWAME ONWUACHI isn’t comfortable being still. Even during the COVID-19 pandemic, he refused to take a break. “I remember talking to a friend, and I was like, ‘The earth is really still right now, so if you don’t continue working, when it does continue rotating, metaphorically, you’re going to just be doing the same thing you were doing [when it was still],’” says Onwuachi.…

EGGPLANTS COME IN ALL shapes and sizes. There’s the diminutive fairy tale eggplant, perfect for grilling; the mild, creamy, purple-and-white rosa bianca; and the slender and sweet Chinese eggplant. And then there’s the hearty globe, the all-purpose eggplant with main-character energy that’s suitable for a variety of flavors. Larger and meatier than other varieties, globe eggplants can adapt to varied cooking techniques. In the following recipes, we circled the globe (get it?) and came up with eggplant recipes influenced by the flavors of China, the eastern Mediterranean, and the Maghreb for dishes as diverse as they are delicious, from a roasted Stuffed Eggplant with Spiced Beef and Pine Nuts (recipe below) based on a dish by Yotam Ottolenghi to a saucy Eggplant Shakshuka (recipe p. 43) inspired by the shakshuka…

MY FIRST VISIT TO LE BIC, the wild and beautiful region surrounding Quebec’s Parc National du Bic, was in 2018, and it remains the farthest I have traveled simply to have dinner. My husband and I drove more than five hours from Montreal to eat at Chez Saint-Pierre, the restaurant belonging to the renowned chef Colombe St-Pierre, in the town of Rimouski. The clapboard house was unexceptional from the outside, unlike St-Pierre herself, whose fun outfit—shorts over pantyhose, plus a 1970s-style headband the night I visited—and outspoken volubility filled the room with warmth and charisma. St-Pierre, now 46, is the daughter of a local lighthouse keeper and grew up on Île Bicquette, a tiny island in the St. Lawrence River. She is charming, generous, and passionate about her region. And…

THERE ARE PEOPLE FOR WHOM A STEAKHOUSE VISIT IS A regular occurrence, and to them I say, “Congratulations on your expense account and/or your six-figure job.” For the rest of us palookas, a steak dinner is an occasion, and I start daydreaming about the menu the second the reservation is locked in. The steak itself is an audible that I call once I hear the night’s specials (though it’s generally a petite filet, black and blue, and I don’t mess with sauce). Sides are the consensus of the table, but, if asked, I’ll opt for creamed spinach, mushrooms, and whatever potato is the crispiest. Salads, though? I’m not compromising. And I’m only sharing if I’m getting half of what you ordered, because knockout steakhouse salads are why I’m sitting there…

Slow It Down SOON, I’LL BE HEADING to Northern California for a family vacation. The plan: early morning swims in Lake Tahoe, competitive Rummikub games on the deck with the kids, plenty of rosé (p. 47), and some simple dinner winners from this issue, like the Lemony Braised Chicken with Figs (p. 18), our seasonal ode to Chicken Marbella. I hope you’re enjoying summer and making the most of some well-deserved time off, too. Here are a few things that have inspired me during the making of this issue. HUNTER@FOODANDWINE.COM @NOTESFROMACOOK Summer Hits AN INGREDIENT We’re lucky to live in an age of artisanal everything, but certain ingredients don’t need reinventing. I was reminded of this recently, when I bought a $13 jar of fancy Worcestershire sauce. It looked swanky…

BEEF NEGIMAKI “EVERY MOM cooks negimaki,” says Shota Nakajima, a contestant on Top Chef season 18 and chef and owner of Taku in Seattle. “It’s a very classic thing that every Japanese person grows up with.” It’s easy to see why. These savory morsels of teriyaki sauce–glazed beef wrapped around scallions (negi means “onion,” and maki means “roll”) are a quick and easy appetizer that comes together in only 20 minutes and can be assembled up to a day in advance. Although beef negimaki calls for just a few ingredients, close attention to technique is key to pulling off the dish. Nakajima’s approach is efficient: He lines up thin slices of beef snugly side by side on a cutting board and pounds them with a meat mallet to form a…

AS YOU DRIVE DOWN the Overseas Highway, a 113-mile stretch of U.S. Highway 1 that connects Key West to the Florida mainland, bright pastel signs attached to open-air, palm-thatch-roofed restaurants that tout the “best Key lime pie in the Keys” are ubiquitous—and perhaps a bit dizzying for a first-time visitor. While the origins of the dessert are disputed, there is no question that Key West, the 4-mile-long, 1-mile-wide island at the southernmost tip of the continental United States, is the Key lime pie capital of the world. But variations abound. Graham cracker crust is standard, but some opt for a buttery, shortbread-like base for the filling, which generally consists of sweetened condensed milk, egg yolks, and the zest and juice of Key limes. The round, golf ball–size limes themselves…

SUMMER IN PROVENCE SELLS ITSELF. SPRAWLING MARKETS heavy with melons and olives and wicker baskets. Fields of lavender, plane tree–lined roads, rocky beaches sculpting the shoreline. Afternoon pétanque, glasses of pastis and rosé, and naps accompanied by the incessant yet lulling serenade of cicadas. Call that a hint, because it’s impossible to capture the lush abundance of summer in Provence in just a few words. What’s far easier is to translate it on the table. Start with an apéro. A pink riff on the classic French 75, the Rosé 75 (recipe p. 92) combines gin, dry vermouth, rosé wine syrup, citrus juice, and more rosé. Follow a round or two of these cocktails with pours of chilled rosé and white wine. Should the fever of the day call for it,…

BETWEEN LATE JULY and early September, my North Carolina family lives in thrall to an abundance of fresh, juicy figs—the harvest from our five towering fig trees. What began as casual backyard picking sessions with my mom has escalated into rooftop expeditions during which, equipped with specialized fig-picking sticks and buckets, we gather the figs, all driven by my mom’s desire to “compete with the birds.” The birds aren’t all we’re competing with. Like clockwork, strangers sneak into our yard in the early mornings, attempting to pilfer our harvest. Family, birds, and trespassers, we’re all united by the knowledge that ripe figs are more than a mere sweet treat—they are a treasure to be cherished. Figs have sweetened our world for millennia, and they symbolize peace and fertility across…

THERE AREN’T MANY COMEBACK STORIES better than that of rosé. Back in the late 2000s, selling dry rosé wine was a thankless task. Imagining its return was like imagining the return of leisure suits or 1980s hair-metal bands. But in rapid succession, rosé went from, “Hey, weird, people in the Hamptons are drinking pink wine,” to “This seems fun; maybe I’ll Instagram it,” to “Out of the way, tiny, weak wines; I’m ROSÉ!” The top three French brands alone now sell more than 16 million bottles a year in the U.S. But what is rosé—or, maybe, what should rosé be? Provençal rosés dominate, no question: pale pink to transparent salmon-orange, light-bodied, delicately suggestive of citrus fruit and red berries. But rosés can be anywhere from almost colorless to electric pink…

“This Isle is like Avalon,” John Steinbeck wrote in his road-trip classic, Travels with Charley. “It must disappear when you are not there.” You cannot help but feel a similar sense of magic and mystery as you make your way over the wispy, thin bridge that tethers Deer Isle to Maine’s Blue Hill Peninsula. With its deep evergreen forests, mossy trails, rock-bound coves, and wild blueberry patches, Deer Isle feels like the place you try to hold on to in the moments when dreams melt into day. On the island’s western shore, Aragosta, Devin Finigan’s restaurant, nestles into Goose Cove. Bookended by pine forests at either end of the sandy crescent that rims the cove, and just inland from the dunes covered with beach plums and wild mustard, Aragosta’s light-filled…