Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2024 i Food & Wine

DAIRYLAND SHARON SPRINGS, NEW YORK I’ve got a knack for making things too complicated, but not when it comes to soft serve. I’ll take a small vanilla sundae with chunky pineapple sauce, chopped peanuts, and an unnaturally scarlet cherry staining the cumulus cloud of whipped topping. It’ll taste pretty much the same anywhere I order it, but it’s never so sweet as when I’m basking in the neon flicker of the Dairyland boy perched on a shed rooftop on the side of Route 20. From April through September, I’m standing in a long line with my neighbors as we shuffle up to order. I’ll then take a seat in the shelter of the aluminum sheds or on the hood of my car to enjoy ice cream, a lemonade, and maybe…

SUMMER IS THE SEASON for easy, quick-cooking mains like juicy burgers, snappy sausages, and succulent chops. But summer side dishes also have main-character energy. Inspired by some of our favorite chefs and the season’s bounty, F&W recipe developer Anna Theoktisto cooked up three vegetable-centric dishes with bold, vibrant flavors that are more than a match for meaty mains. Fresh shucked corn on the cob turns into luscious Grilled Corn Ribs with Honey Butter (recipe p. 46). Tender summer squash takes on a bit of char before it’s finished with a tangy tomatillo salsa in Blistered Summer Squash Salad (recipe below). Or try the Green Bean, Butter Bean, and Tomato Salad (recipe p. 48), which calls for mere minutes of blanching to create a dish of vibrant green beans and creamy…

AT GOLDFINCH RESTAURANT, the table is crowded with steamer baskets and plates loaded with scallop and sesame toasts; tiny, crispy shrimp with garlic and chile; and pork wontons dressed with black vinegar, chile oil, and cilantro. A pillowy black leather booth curves around the table itself, which looks out onto a room with jet-black ceilings, gilded wallpaper, and cherry red barstools. It’s easy to take in this scene and imagine yourself in Hong Kong or Singapore—until you’re jolted back to Copenhagen by the room’s Danish-speaking diners. Being at a high-end restaurant in Copenhagen without a foraged berry or a piece of sourdough served with fancy butter in sight actually feels refreshing. And while an elevated Cantonese restaurant wouldn’t appear out of the ordinary in most modern metropolises, in Denmark’s capital—famed…

IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER, the only things I want to consume are beverages: shaken, stirred, blended, poured over ice, straight from the can—you name it, I need it. Thankfully, “It’s 5 o’clock somewhere” becomes a softer rule after Memorial Day. Three-thirty in the afternoon poolside is an entirely appropriate time and place for a citrusy, sparkling tequila drink (recipe p. 84). After sunset is the perfect moment to add a splash of sparkling wine to sorbet for a refreshing dessert (recipe opposite). And if it’s not yet noon, why not introduce a splash of bittersweet coffee liqueur to a creamy tahini shake for brunch (recipe p. 85)? —LUCY SIMON LIMONCELLO SORBET FLOAT TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 1 This cocktail float marries the flavors of a French 75 with an…

YOU’RE BROWSING THE BOUNTY of a summer farmers market, stalls bursting with ripe, juicy berries, beckoning you to buy as much as your totes can carry in the name of savoring the season. But within a few days, you find that you’ve bought more berries than you can devour. Those excess berries remain untouched in the refrigerator, becoming increasingly soft, dark, and bruised. If you miss peak ripeness, fear not—don’t toss those berries in the compost, or worse, the trash. Those berries, in all their mushy glory, are perfect for whipping up a plethora of desserts with endless jammy possibilities. The reality is, there’s nothing wrong with a slightly mushy berry that is free of mold. In fact, many farmers will offer a steep discount on what are called “seconds,”…

My Summer Go-To HEY, COOKS. Summer is on the horizon, so we’ve made a point to keep the recipes in this issue as breezy as this note will be to you. Take this riff on the Thai corn salad from the New York City restaurant Fish Cheeks, where the salty, electrified funk of fish sauce, acidic brightness of lime juice, fruity heat from chile, and mellowing softness of sugar form the condiment prik nam pla and amplify barely blanched green beans and crisp-tender corn, tomatoes, and basil. Also: As always, you’re in the driver’s seat; adjust the levels of sweet, sour, and spicy to your liking. This issue is full of recipes for every kind of cook, whether you favor crispy-edged smash burgers or a thick, two-fisted tavern-style burger (p.…

PUT AWAY THE MEASURING CUPS, electric mixers, and kitchen scales: Gâteau au yaourt needs none of those tools. Tender and slightly tangy, this yogurt cake is such a staple across France that the recipe is even taught to children in school. It relies on a standard single-serving yogurt container for measuring (you’ll want the small ones made of ceramic or glass from La Fermière or Oui by Yoplait) and comes together in one bowl. We’ve all heard before that baking is a science, but this cake shows that it’s also simple math. When you’re following a recipe, using multiple measuring cups and spoons, the ratios of ingredients going into the recipe aren’t always noticeable. Gâteau au yaourt puts ratios on display: Empty your yogurt into a bowl, and refill…

I AM OBSESSED WITH GRILLED CHEESE—specifically, with cheese that is grilled, such as Halloumi. The salty white cheese, which originated in Cyprus, isn’t as popular in the U.S. as its close cousin, feta, but it absolutely should be. It’s beloved across Europe, especially in the U.K., where it’s the No. 1 imported cheese and is ubiquitous in grocery stores and on restaurant menus across the country. (Most of the Halloumi in the U.S. is also imported, but there are a handful of American producers, like Yaya’s Cheese out of Boise, Idaho.) Traditionally made from sheep milk (though there are goat milk versions as well), Halloumi has a firm texture and does not melt when grilled. Instead, it develops a beautiful caramelized outer crust and a squishy, squeaky interior. This unique…

WE’VE ALL GOT OPINIONS about hot dogs. New York–or Chicago-style? Steamed or grilled? Mustard or ketchup? Should you score it? Toast the bun or not? But here’s the thing: There’s no wrong way to hot dog. How you make and top a frankfurter is entirely up to you. (This is a judgment-free zone!) With that said, we encourage you to consider the hot dog as a canvas for more cooking techniques, buns, condiments, and accompaniments than you might imagine. Once you experiment beyond the basic (yet satisfying) schmears of ketchup and mustard, you can begin to build your ultimate hot dog. We asked four of our favorite chefs how they like their hot dogs. Read on—perhaps they’ll inspire the flawless frank for you. —AMELIA SCHWARTZ 1. EVELYN GARCIA Garcia fondly…

AT EMILY AND ROB MCDANIEL’S RESTAURANT, Helen, in Birmingham, Alabama, a hulking wood-fired grill is the heart of the restaurant, punctuating many items on the seasonal Southern menu with smoky, charred, and seared flavors. Rob McDaniel named the restaurant after his grandmother Helen, who loved her indoor charcoal grill, and he modeled his custom grill grates after the ones found on the pint-size hibachi forged by Lodge: the Sportsman’s Pro Cast-Iron Grill, which has cult status among chefs like McDaniel who love the great outdoors. The surface area of the Sportsman’s Pro’s flat, wide cast-iron grill grates (rather than raised) allows rendered fat and juices to drip down to the coals below. And their searing properties are similar to cooking in a cast-iron pan, but with charcoal flavor. “Grill marks…

SALT, OIL, FLAVORINGS, AND ACID: These are the building blocks of a marinade, a solution in which raw meat, fish, or vegetables are infused for a period of time prior to cooking. They range from simple acidic liquids, such as wine (as seen in a saucy beef bourguignon) and buttermilk (hello, fried chicken), to more complex sauces like Mexican al pastor (p. 97), Chinese char siu (p. 99), and Italian salmoriglio (p. 97). Marinating food, as it turns out, is a nearly universal technique found throughout the world. A marinade has two purposes: First, it adds flavor, and second, it lightly tenderizes food, mainly on its surface. Salt—whether sea salt or soy sauce—starts breaking down the protein network of meats and gently tenderizes them. This allows seasonings, such as…

Grilled Sausages With Apple Mustard ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN SERVES 8 For grilled sausages with a lightly charred exterior and juicy bite, chef and cookbook author Tyler Florence first sears the links on the hot side of the grill and then finishes them over indirect heat. These sausages are topped with sweet apple mustard and giardiniera, a tangy mix of pickled vegetables. The fruity mustard, which comes together in a foil packet on the grill before it’s blended smooth, is also great served with grilled chicken, pork tenderloin, or tossed with roasted brussels sprouts. APPLE MUSTARD 1 Fuji apple, cored and chopped (about 1½ cups)½ cup chopped yellow onion2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 tsp. kosher salt½ tsp. black pepper4 tsp. stone-ground mustard, divided (see Note) HOT…

I EDITED A HEALTHY-COOKING MAGAZINE for four years, so I know that preaching from the nutritional pulpit won’t inspire you to cook more seafood at home for better health. Even though you should. So let’s talk about how to solve for weeknight dinners instead, starting with omega-3-rich salmon, which continues to be a mainstay protein in my home because it’s such a versatile and forgiving fish. Lately, I’ve been leaning on two methods in my weekly dinner rotation: The first recipe calls for searing a two-pound center-cut fillet in a cast-iron or carbon steel skillet to create a flavorful crust. This takes all of 25 minutes from start to finish—to make it, see the Seared Salmon with Pistachio Pesto recipe below. The second recipe, for Slow-Baked Sheet Pan Salmon with…

IN JAPAN, POTATO SALAD is an essential picnic food, a mainstay at barbecues, and a regular in lunchtime bento boxes. This potato salad is the one that every Japanese person eats—no exaggeration. The potatoes are mashed and soft, with a little cucumber for bite, some carrot for sweetness, and a generous glug of rice vinegar. But what sets it apart from other potato salads is the umami-rich mayonnaise that binds it all together. Kewpie is the brand most Japanese home cooks use because it’s what’s most available. But it also happens to be the creamiest, most luscious mayo out there, thanks to the large amount of egg yolks in the recipe. There’s a term, “hashi yasume,” that literally translates to “chopstick rest,” but it also denotes the food on the…

THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT NAMES for the ice pop. In Canada, it’s called a freezie. In Australia, it’s an icy pole. And in Savannah, Georgia, where chef Mashama Bailey lived as a kid, it’s called a thrill. “Thrills are a sugary-sweet fruit syrup mixed with water and then frozen,” says Bailey. “They started around the ’70s. Women in Black neighborhoods would deem themselves the ‘candy ladies’ and sell thrills out of their homes to kids.” Bailey recalls having her first thrills at the age of 5, pausing between rounds of Old Maid to run to her local candy lady’s house. “They’d make them in paper Dixie cups on a stick. We’d peel back the cups to eat them.” At her Savannah restaurant, The Grey, Bailey now serves thrills inspired by…

SUKIYAKI, A DISH OF BEEF simmered in a sauce made of shoyu, sake, and sugar, dates back to the late 19th century in Japan, when a centuries-old taboo against eating beef was lifted and it entered the culinary canon. The name comes from the word for plow (suki), the main blade of which was sometimes used for direct-heat cooking (yaki)—or so one story goes. Today, sukiyaki is still a special-occasion dish, one that calls for paper-thin slices of beef and that’s traditionally prepared on the table, hot pot–style, in a special cast-iron vessel. That’s how cookbook author, Culinary Institute of America instructor, and Japanese culinary expert Hiroko Shimbo first encountered sukiyaki. Growing up in Japan, Shimbo ate the dish just once a year. “My father, who otherwise never got into…