Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2024 i Food & Wine

2022 MASI FRESCO DI MASI ROSSO ($19) Masi is known for powerfully rich Amarones, so it’s a surprise to see them enter the chillable red game, but this crisp, low-alcohol (11.5%) Italian red is just the thing for late-spring drinking. Made from organically farmed Corvina and Merlot and in a lightweight bottle, it’s both good for the planet and a delight to drink. 2021 DAVIS BYNUM ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR ($30) At the World of Pinot Noir event this March in California, I must have tasted several hundred Pinots. There was plenty of small-production excellence on hand, but I was struck by this graceful rosé from longtime Russian River Valley producer Davis Bynum. It’s refreshing in a classic way, but much more complex than most. ISLE OF HARRIS GIN ($60)…

Pink Perfection Rosé Champagne makes any evening special. By Ray Isle ONCE UPON A TIME, rosé Champagne was actually disreputable. In fact, in the 1950s and 1960s, Madame Lily Bollinger forbade her staff from making it at all. Back then, pink Champagne was the preferred tipple in Parisian brothels, which earned her formidable disapproval. Times change, and now everyone drinks rosé. In recent years, it has accounted for 18% of Champagne exports to the U.S., quite a climb from 20 years ago, when it was around 3%. We drank nearly six million bottles of the stuff in 2022. I admit I contributed substantially to this statistic. Unlike still rosés, which are typically made solely from red grapes, rosé Champagne is most often made with a small addition of red wine…

THIS YEAR IS ALREADY SHAPING UP to be a delicious one for food-minded travelers. There’s been a burst of creativity and innovation in dining scenes across the globe, from tourism hot spots to under-the-radar destinations. Plus, airlines, hotels, and cruise ships have significantly upped their culinary offerings. The results of our 2024 Global Tastemakers Awards, as voted on by food and travel writers from across the globe and ranked by our expert judging panel (see “Methodology,” p. 101), celebrate the flavors and culinary experiences that draw us to a destination. Whether it’s a life-affirming meal that defines a trip or a cocktail that evokes a taste of place with every sip, each of our winners represents a passionate yet thoughtful approach to cuisine and a sense of joy and hospitality that’s…

IT’S NOT EVEN 11 A.M., yet here I am, in the back of the line that snakes around a corner, getting pushed into a produce stand and nearly knocking over a tower of lettuce, all in the name of scoring a good lunch. Luckily, the queue moves faster than expected, past more veggies and a store that specializes in socks. Finally, I reach my destination: CasaManco, a small pizza stall, perhaps five feet long, in the Mercato di Testaccio in the outskirts of Rome. Campo de’ Fiori may be one of Rome’s oldest markets, but Testaccio represents the new guard in innovative neighborhood markets, embracing old and new food traditions and serving as an incubator for spots like CasaManco. Tiny but mighty, the stall is owned by Andrea Salabè and Paola Manco, a married couple who left…

Taking Flight LONG BEFORE he founded Maybe Sammy, the cocktail bar in Sydney featured on our cover, Stefano Catino tended bar in Vernazza, Italy, a picturesque village in the Cinque Terre. Every summer, when the tourists began to arrive, a woman would return to rent the same second-floor apartment overlooking the town’s main square. During aperitivo hour, she would set a bubble machine on her windowsill, then walk downstairs to order a drink from Catino’s bar and watch as children gleefully chased bubbles around the piazza. Today, that same spirit of whimsy and wonder pervades Maybe Sammy, where no less than six bubble machines are deployed by the bartenders on any given night to elevate the mood. The team wears natty pink suits and takes its spiritual inspiration from…

IN LATE MAY, there is a small cluster of ramps behind Peoples Place, a community center in Leivasy, West Virginia. “You can smell them before you can see them,” says Dawna “DoDo” Griffith, leader of the nonprofit. “People call it their spring tonic: something that sticks with you, makes you sleep better, makes you feel good.” Back inside the cafeteria kitchen, Griffith gives orders to volunteer cooks who are preparing for the highly anticipated ramp dinner, a spring tradition for many rural Appalachian communities featuring the pungent, garlicky allium. Fresh ramps will be cooked in lard and bacon fat, then scooped onto a plate with a splash of apple cider vinegar. They’re served with all the fixings: cranberry and pinto beans, cornbread, fried eggs, and bacon. In just one day,…

Pulled Chicken Sandwiches With Mango Barbecue Sauce TOTAL 25 MIN; SERVES 4 A double dose of mango—chopped ripe mango simmered in the barbecue sauce and grated green mango tossed in the slaw—amps up the sweet and tangy notes in these quick chicken sandwiches. BARBECUE CHICKEN 1 Tbsp. canola oil1½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 4 large thighs)½ cup chicken broth2 cups finely chopped ripe mango (about 1 large mango)½ cup ketchup2 Tbsp. soy sauce1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar1 tsp. chipotle chile powder or ancho chile powder1 tsp. garlic powder½ tsp. black pepper GREEN MANGO–CABBAGE SLAW 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise2 tsp. fresh lime juice½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste2 cups shredded red cabbage (from 1 small cabbage)1 cup grated green mango (from 1 mango) (see Note)3 scallions, thinly sliced…

By Khushbu Shah IT’S A NIPPY TUESDAY IN LOS ANGELES, but even so, there is a line down the sidewalk in front of Anajak Thai. Guests are waiting to check in for tables at Thai Taco Tuesday (TTT), a weekly series owner and 2022 F&W Best New Chef Justin Pichetrungsi runs out of the alley of the restaurant, where he fuses Thai, Mexican, and global cooking. The heat lamp–lined alley is packed with enthusiastic diners, and a hip-hop playlist competes with the din of the crowd. Justin’s mom, Rattikorn, shakes her head with a reluctant acceptance. “I’m not too crazy about this music—we used to play classical music at the restaurant.” Justin rolls his eyes with the kind of respectful annoyance that comes when you’re constantly blurring the lines between business…

IN THE KITCHEN OF HIS CENTRAL DALLAS HOME, chef Junior Borges reaches for a bottle of dendê oil. He adds a slow, generous pour of the crimson liquid, derived from African oil palms, to a pot of moqueca. As the iconic Brazilian fish stew simmers on the stovetop and the oil warms, a pungent smell fills the air, and Borges’ expression becomes visibly pleased. “If I’m trying to represent Brazil, I have to be true to the country,” he says. “To me, nothing represents my upbringing and my culture like moqueca.” More than 20 years ago, Borges pioneered a classic yet expansive approach to Brazilian food in the United States, one that elevates the nation’s African history, and he’s kept to it ever since. As a result of the transatlantic slave…

IN JAPAN, colorful, hand-dyed cloths called tenugui enrich our daily lives. The word comes from te, which means “hand” in Japanese, and nugui, which means “to wipe,” but since their creation, they have become much more than just towels. Tenugui first appeared more than 1,000 years ago; they were originally made of silk or hemp and considered a luxury item. Once fabric manufacturing modernized, tenugui became more affordable and accessible, and by the late 19th century, they had become go-to, all-purpose cloths, used as light towels for public bathhouses, cloths for cleaning and drying dishes, and even as aprons. These days, most tenugui are made of cotton and are about 1 foot wide by 3 feet long. The short edge is unhemmed, allowing the cloth to dry quickly—the wabi-sabi imperfection…

ANGEL FOOD CAKE MAKING ANGEL FOOD CAKE always reminds me of my first pastry teacher: my biology- and chemistry-minded mother, who turned our kitchen into a laboratory where she fostered in us kids an appreciation of the science behind the food we made together. Angel food cake, with its cloudlike crumb, was my favorite thing to bake with her. While the cake seemed magical, Mom pulled back the curtain to reveal some of the principles at play. Umpteen years later, the cake still sparks wonder in me. Angel food cake is a foam cake—one that relies only on the power of whipped egg whites for its lift. As the cake bakes, the egg-white proteins form strong but flexible air pockets that fill with steam and expand, causing the batter to…

WHILE MUCH OF PERU’S cuisine tends to coalesce around geography and ancestral traditions, Lima is something of an outlier, absorbing everything that crosses its path and spinning it back out, reimagined. Take, for example, the knife techniques Japanese Peruvian cooks used to transform ceviche in the 1970s. Or the ingredients like yacón, a semitropical tuber, and camu camu, a very tart Amazonian berry, from the highlands and jungles that arrived with migrants fleeing violence in the 1980s and ’90s and that can be seen today throughout the city, from the skewered beef hearts cooked on sidewalk grills to inimitable fine-dining temples. Lima’s raw imagination and constant transformation are what continue to make the city one of the world’s great gastronomic destinations. More than a million Venezuelans have fled to Lima over…

I first remember tasting cocount in Puerto Rico. I was there for the summer, staying with family in the Altamesa neighborhood of San Juan. One morning, my Titi Sarita woke me early for a trip to the town of Gurabo, just outside the city. The sun had barely risen when we stopped at a panadería for coffee, and my aunt bought me a besito de coco, a tennis ball–size coconut macaroon with a cherry on top. It’s a common enough dessert, but on that morning, as we drove up the steep, winding mountain road, dawn light cutting through the dense fog, I was entranced. The top was toasted and crisp, tasting of caramel, while the center was soft and creamy, the tender coconut strands bound by rich condensed milk. It…