Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2024 i Food & Wine

ALTHOUGH WINTER SQUASHES ARE DELICIOUS, their rambling vines take up a lot of space. Every square foot in a vegetable garden is valuable real estate, so it may not be worthwhile to grow butternut or acorn—squashes that are easy to find at your local grocery store or farmers market. But red kuri, a teardrop-shaped squash that may be more difficult to track down, is worth making room for. Also known as orange Hokkaido, red kuri squash has a sweet, nutty taste and an edible skin, giving pies and soups a deep orange color and smooth texture. Its weight—three pounds or less—makes it the perfect, approachable squash to grow at home. 1 Start Your Seedlings Off Strong Red kuri squash takes 90 days to mature, so order your seeds now and…

TO CREATE THE FOLLOWING RECIPES, the Food & Wine Test Kitchen started by talking to Asha Gomez, award-winning chef and author of the cookbooks My Two Souths and I Cook in Color. In her own cooking, Gomez draws inspiration from the American South and her birthplace of Kerala in southern India; what better person to provide ideas for big-flavored, crowd-pleasing dinners? The resulting recipes are based on Gomez’s descriptions and parameters, streamlined by our testers to yield bold, satisfying one-pot meals that are just what the season calls for. —ANDEE GOSNELL Braised Beef Stew With Mustard Greens ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 5 MIN SERVES 6 Marinated in a sweet-and-savory mixture of molasses and soy sauce, hearty pieces of chuck roast simmer in a cinnamon-infused broth with carrots and…

THE VERMOUTH SPRITZ is the white button-down of my home bar. It’s incredibly simple to throw together, feels both polished and relaxed, and can adapt to any meal or occasion without much fuss. Crisp and relatively low in alcohol, this simple two-to-one ratio of club soda to vermouth is my favorite drink to sip on while cooking—especially if I can add a splash or two from the same bottle to deglaze the onions I’m sautéeing in a pan or to add some subtle complexity to my pasta sauce. Just make a vermouth spritz one time, and I promise you’ll find yourself wondering: Why hasn’t this simple concoction been among my go-to cocktails all along? SIX GREAT VERMOUTHS FOR YOUR NEXT SPRITZ ELEVEN MADISON HOME NONALCOHOLIC VERMOUTH ($25) You don’t have…

PICTURE THIS: It’s pasta night. You don’t have time to make your own sauce, so you run to the grocery store to pick up a couple of jars. You walk down the aisle and turn to look at your options, only to see dozens—hundreds, even—of tomato sauces. You see affordable sauces, premium sauces, mom-and-pop sauces, and sauces with the same name as that one famous restaurant in New York City. Where to begin? Well, we at Food & Wine dove deep into the sauce to help with that conundrum. We tasted a whopping 100 tomato sauces (exclusively marinaras and tomato-basils) to determine the ultimate best sauce for every category and occasion. (See foodandwine.com/best-store-bought-tomato-sauce for the full list of winners.) BEST OVERALL MONTE’S ORIGINAL FAMILY RECIPE TOMATO SAUCE Monte’s tomato sauce…

IN 2016, while on a sushi dinner date, Felix Böck and his partner, Thalia Otamendi, took a look at their single-use bamboo chopsticks and saw in them the base for an entirely new product. So Böck used his background in woodworking and his PhD in structural bamboo engineering to come up with a new composite material that’s highly durable and sustainable, looks just as sleek as finished hardwood, and is made entirely of recycled chopsticks. Today, Böck’s Vancouver-based company, ChopValue, collects thousands of used chopsticks from restaurants, shopping malls, airports, hotels, and casinos around the city. “We’re using waste that people would ordinarily throw away and turning it into a resource that people can bring into their homes, kitchens, restaurants, and businesses,” says Sabrina Kon, ChopValue’s head of community and…

RECIPE FROM BORN AND RAISED San Diego CRISPY AND GOLDEN WITH CREAMY CENTERS, the hash browns at Born and Raised, a swanky modern steakhouse in the Little Italy district of San Diego, are a must-order side dish. Cut with precision into rectangular sticks from russet potatoes that have been baked, grated, and pressed into a pan to chill, the hash browns are fried to order, topped with a dollop of cooling crème fraîche that drapes over the hot potatoes, and finished with a generous dose of trout roe. These lavish hash browns have been a staple on the menu for years—and once you make them at home, they’re sure to become a regular at your own table, too. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN Crispy Hash Browns With Crème Fraîche ACTIVE 55 MIN;…

FOR ME, WINTER MEANS TWO THINGS. First, it’s the season for cooking recipes that warm you up from the inside with a warmth that lasts: rich stews and daubes, hearty soups, and old-school classics like shepherd’s pie. Second, it calls for the wines that go with them: intense, full-bodied reds, with plenty of robust flavor and a good brawny measure of tannins as well, all the better to balance out the lusciousness of something like, oh, cassoulet. (Did I forget cassoulet in my list of warming winter dishes? Terrible oversight.) There are lots of sources for these kinds of wines, but lately I’ve been looking to Chile and Argentina. Recent vintages have been extremely good: 2019 was stellar, 2020 impressive even during a global pandemic, 2021 cooler but balanced and…

LONG BEFORE I EVER DREAMED of becoming a sommelier (and later a wine writer and educator), I was tasked, around the age of 7, with decanting and pouring the wine at my grandparents’ weekly Sunday lunches. And that wine was invariably red because red wine was, and remains, the flavor-enhancing vehicle that drives many of my Italian family’s meals. The reason? Because so many of those meals employ tomato sauce, one way or another. Silky, crimson, basil-scented tomato sauce gets used all year long by my famiglia, not only as the headliner in penne marinara or the foundation of porky-beefy Sunday sauce ragù, but also for stracotto braises, pizzas, and as the delicate underpinning of sauces like amatriciana, Bolognese bianco, and white clam. (For context, we canned thousands of jars…

AS I PREPARED FOR MY WEDDING LAST YEAR, I asked recently married friends what products were essential for our registry. Their recommendations ranged widely, from glassware for entertaining to robotic vacuums, but they all agreed on one thing: A Dutch oven absolutely had to make my wish list. Beautiful, colorful, and collectible, Dutch ovens are deeply revered and beloved by American home cooks. Yet unlike other trendy kitchen gadgets that have similarly ardent followings, like the Instant Pot or air fryer, the Dutch oven is not exactly new. The basic design dates back to at least the 17th century, when deep, high-sided pots were common household items for baking and roasting in the Netherlands. In the early 1700s, Englishman Abraham Darby, who was looking for a way to break up…

THE TOPIC WAS CULINARY ICONS, profiling one in each decade of life from teenager to nonagenarian, and I was the Food & Wine editor assigned to the story. In the span of a few months in 2011, I interviewed some of the food world’s greatest culinary luminaries and collected a recipe from each. Wolfgang Puck, then in his 60s, was wrestling with whether to remove all his signature dishes from Spago’s menu as part of a reboot. (The smoked salmon pizza is still being served today.) Forty-seven-year-old Bobby Flay confessed to sitting up late at night pining for his earliest NYC restaurants, hoping to reinvent Mesa Grill and reopen Bolo. (There’s a Mesa Grill in Vegas; Bolo is still a distant memory.) Fifty-something Thomas Keller told me one of the…