Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Food & Wine

RECIPE FROM STORY HILL BKC MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN IF YOU EVER NEEDED A REASON to visit Milwaukee, Wisconsin, consider Story Hill BKC chef Joe Muench’s crêpe monsieur, a perfectly cooked crêpe enveloping a brunch-size portion of Wisconsin’s bounty, your invitation. Saxony Alpine Style Cheese, a nutty, bright take on traditional Alpine-style cheese from Saxon Creamery in nearby Malone, enriches the interior. Torn pieces of savory smoked ham stud each bite, and a happy marriage of mayonnaise, two kinds of Dijon mustard, and a hint of sugar make for a dreamy drizzled condiment. The bow on the dish? A balancing sprinkle of housemade pickles. “The pickles scattered on top serve as these lovely notes that punctuate each bite with tart flavor,” says F&W editor Chandra Ram, for whom the crêpe monsieur was…

In years gone by, every neighborhood in Buenos Aires had a well-loved place where the locals could stop by for a drink, dine on something homey, and stick around for a few hands of penny-ante poker. Writer Jorge Luis Borges immortalized one such street-corner hangout in “The Mythical Founding of Buenos Aires,” a poem that evokes his childhood in the leafy, low-rise, working-class district of Palermo: a general store pinkas the back of a playing card shone bright;in the back the talk was of winning poker hands.The corner bar flowered into life … The carnation-colored building of Borges’ youth was El Preferido de Palermo, a general store that also housed a type of tavern known as a bodegón. Catering to a clientele with immigrant roots in Spain and Italy, bodegones…

“In India, barbecuing is a serious business, left in the secure hands of professional chefs and the small-time entrepreneurs who occupy storefronts in the bazaar.”—MADHUR JAFFREY MADHUR JAFFREY, one of the greatest cookbook authors of all time (as well as an illustrator, television personality, writer, and actress), changed my life in a single meal. Jaffrey’s first book, An Invitation to Indian Cooking, was published in 1973, and her book World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking made its way into my family’s kitchen by 1981, an impulse Barnes & Noble purchase spurred by my dad’s lifelong fascination with the vast and faraway country. With two young children at home, it seemed unlikely that my dad could find time to make a trip to India himself, so this was the next best thing, especially since…

Adventures Await CELL SERVICE WAS SCARCE when we pulled the camper van off scenic Highway 12 into the parking lot of Hell’s Backbone Grill and Farm, an oasis of fresh vegetables in tiny Boulder, Utah. We ordered snacks and margaritas, and my fiancée, Jen, and I used the restaurant’s Wi-Fi to download hiking maps and make arrangements to meet up with an old high school buddy the next day in nearby Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Soon, we left civilization in the rearview mirror and drove down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a spine-rattling former wagon route created by Mormon settlers in 1879. Deep in the desert, we pulled the van off the dirt road behind a cluster of trees and made camp. We hiked among the sandstone arches and Easter Island–like hoodoo rock…

THERE ARE ONLY TWO KINDS OF CHIPS: They can be humble supporting actors for all kinds of dips, or they can be self-sufficient, packing enough flavor, texture, and unbridled crunch to hold their own straight from the bag. Lately, we’ve been drawn to the latter, a new crop of maximalist chips that channel ingredients from every corner of the globe into bite-size bits of excitement. Read on for our four favorites. 1. CONFETTI GREEN CURRY MUSHROOM CHIPS Who knew that shiitake mushrooms could turn into ultra-flavorful preserved magic? Founded in Singapore, Confetti makes baked mushroom chips that are full of surprises, like onion and garlic balanced by herbaceous basil and a kick of citrus. ($6, us.confettisnacks.com) 2. PAQUI JALAPEÑO TROPICALE TORTILLA CHIPS Pineapple isn’t always the easiest flavor to pick…

THERE IS A FAMOUS MARIACHI SONG by singer Luis Miguel titled “México en la Piel,” Mexico in your skin, that Mexicans go wild for. In the 2004 song, he sings: “Como el buen tequila de esta tierra … O artesanía en San Miguel … Como contemplar el mar Caribe … Así se siente México.” Translated, the lyrics mean “Like a great tequila from this land … Or the handcrafted work in San Miguel … Like contemplating the Caribbean sea … This is how Mexico feels.” While the song is an homage to all of Mexico, the country’s charm converges like nowhere else in Mexico City. I’ve always wished people could see and taste my hometown the way I experience it, and it feels like they finally are. Whenever I…

Kanazawa, Japan Smaller, easier to get around, and not as packed as Tokyo or Kyoto, this charming seaside city offers the best seafood in Japan. By Yukari Sakamoto → On the Sea of Japan, charming Kanazawa is an exciting destination for food lovers. The seafood here is fresher than what is sold at the world-famous Toyosu Market in Tokyo: It can take a day to arrive at the country’s capital, whereas in Kanazawa, diners eat whatever was caught that morning, like crab, white shrimp, and fatty nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch). One of the best places to enjoy seafood is at the 300-year-old Omicho Market (ohmicho-ichiba.com), which opens at 9 a.m. On the second floor, away from the crowds, Hirai Ichiba-kan specializes in kaisendon, seasonal sashimi over a large bowl of vinegared…

MY IMMIGRANT PARENTS were not cookie people. My French mother found chocolate chip cookies a peculiar American curiosity, and my Tunisian father, in typical Mediterranean fashion, preferred to offer me oranges for dessert. In retrospect, it was no surprise that I developed an outsize fondness for cookies, one that only grew when I discovered kaak warqa. Each summer, my parents would send me off from Philadelphia, where we lived, to visit my Tunisian family halfway across the world. I didn’t like most of the desserts in Tunisia. They came off as overly sweet and were usually studded with whole nuts, while I was more interested in chocolate. I can’t remember the first time I ate a kaak warqa, but it must have been its smooth, doughnut-shaped appearance that first caught…

WINE BOOKS, ARCHER HOTEL, NAPA At this elegant property in downtown Napa, each room has a wine fridge to hold your bottles from the nearby wineries. Another thoughtful touch is the books available for purchase, such as The 24-Hour Wine Expert by wine critic Jancis Robinson. It’s an easily digestible guide that one could read in an afternoon. If you don’t believe me, believe the hotel’s review, printed on the bookmark: “Whether you’re a wine novice or need a quick refresher, this guide is a healthy pour of knowledge in a short amount of time.” (Rooms from $306, archerhotel.com) CAVIAR SERVICE, SILVERSEA’S SILVER DAWN, AT SEA While sailing from Bari to Rome on Silversea’s Silver Dawn (think of it as a fancy hotel at sea!) this past summer, I heard…

AS WINTER STARTS TO WANE, I’m always so excited to begin spring cooking, but the reality is that the shoulder season is a tricky time to cook. One day might call for a warming stew, while the next calls for a cold veggie salad. Cue these recipes, which all speak to this transitional time of year. My spring puttanesca (p. 48) is fresh and punchy but also soothing and warming, and my saucy beans and greens on toast (p. 53) are the ultimate dinner for a day where you start out in a heavy coat and end up in shorts. With these four easy dinners, your table will be the envy of the season. Glazed Black Cod With Bok Choy and Scallions ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN, PLUS 4…

“I love all the restaurants in Harlem and the hidden gems across the five boroughs. There is a level of convenience, resiliency, a diversity of culinary experiences, and an eclectic energy from the patrons and staff that makes eating in NYC one of the most memorable experiences.”—A reader from Manhattan “The food culture in New Orleans is ubiquitous. It permeates the city and its people. Everyone here is seemingly in some way tied to a restaurant, purveyor or otherwise, and many have strong family traditions tied to cooking and eating.”—A reader from Houston USA 1. New York City 2. New Orleans 3. San Francisco 4. Los Angeles 5. Portland, Oregon 6. Chicago 7. Charleston 8. Miami 9. San Diego 10. Austin WORLD 1. Mexico City 2. Tokyo 3. San…

After an almost 24-hour journey from San Francisco to Tampaksiring, Indonesia, there was nothing I desired more than a pillow and some shut-eye. Jet-lagged and a bit delirious, I didn’t think there was anything that could invigorate me, until my Airbnb host presented me with an assortment of little banana-leaf cones on a plate. I picked one up, and as I pulled back one of the green strips, a fluffy parcel of perfectly cooked rice painted with the yellow glow of turmeric slowly began to reveal itself from the spiral of leaf encasing it. The jolt of pleasure and surprise that the dish gave me stayed with me when I returned home, spurring my curiosity about how I might begin to cook with banana leaves in my own kitchen. Banana leaves…