Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2023 i Food & Wine

2020 RAMEY WINE CELLARS RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY ($45) I poured this at a tasting recently for a group of people who said they didn’t like California Chardonnay. They were blown away. It’s a thrilling white, vivid and bright, with layers of flavor and only the barest hint of oak. 2019 DANJOU-BANESSY LA TRUFFIÈRE CÔTES CATALANES ROUGE ($39) This savory, transparently ruby blend of Carignane and Grenache from two young biodynamic vintners in France’s Roussillon was a surprise to me (and a good one). Now I just need to track down the rest of their wines… 2018 ST. INNOCENT TEMPERANCE HILL VINEYARD ($50) I made some braised venison shanks with juniper, allspice, and cinnamon during the depths of winter, and this gorgeous, dark-fruited Oregon Pinot, with its equally warm spice…

BEFORE JOHN WELCH’S RAVIOLI MOLDS WENT VIRAL on social media, he took up woodworking as a relaxing hobby–something he could do out on the deck of his home in Lowell, Massachusetts, just him, his imagination, and a glass of whiskey. Welch bounced from big projects, like installing hardwood floors in his parents’ house, to smaller ones, like making serving boards. And then he started carving wooden spoons using two knives that he bought off Amazon. “I love entertaining, and I was like, it’d be really cool to cook dinner for people I care about with a spoon that I made.” But Welch’s friends wanted spoons of their own, so he made more spoons and bought bigger tools. Within a year, Welch moved into a 200-square-foot space in Lowell. That…

ASPARAGUS PIDE WHEN LORYN NALIC first visited the Balkans in 2013, it was to better understand her husband’s culture by meeting his parents and eating the food he’d grown up with. Nalic and her husband, Edo, met while working in the food industry and were thinking about starting a food truck. When she came upon a pide stand in Istanbul, she stopped, entranced by the sight. “It was this canoe-shaped dough filled with meat or cheese but no sauce,” she says. “The people at the stand kept feeding more and more of them into these wood-fired ovens. I kept going back for more, even long after I was full. I talked to the cooks, and they welcomed me into the back where they were shaping the dough. I was there…

YOU DON’T NEED US TO EXPLAIN why no one wants to face a sink full of dirty mixing bowls, pots, and pans at the end of the evening. Cookbook author and New York Times columnist Melissa Clark had minimizing cleanup top of mind as she created a collection of recipes that use as few pans as possible for her latest book, Dinner in One: Exceptional & Easy One-Pan Meals. Her goal is to help home cooks focus on the food, not the mess. Clark shows off that mission in these recipes from the book, shared exclusively with Food & Wine. Clark notes that her recipes are guides, and cooks should adjust them to their preferences. That means that you should swap in whatever vegetables you prefer when making the Spiced…

Now That’s Classic REMEMBER IN THE NIGHT KITCHEN, Maurice Sendak’s book about a child who descends from his bed into a pillowy dreamworld kitchen? Mickey and the book’s jolly bakers have found new life in San Francisco on a wall outside Omnivore Books on Food, where curious passersby now stop to gander at the whimsical mural of food flying out of skillets and children mixing a giant bowl of cake batter. Shop owner Celia Sack commissioned the mural on Cesar Chavez Street last year as a way to thank her neighborhood for supporting the bookstore and adjoining pet store that she and her wife own. Gestures like this are just one of the many things that make them one of the most beloved cookbook shops in the country. Like Sendak’s…

AT FIRST GLANCE, koji spores are pretty unassuming, but the sandy, wheat-colored powder unleashes worlds of flavor. Koji is an edible fungus that is inoculated in steamed rice, and fuzzy, fresh rice koji is the foundation for making miso, sake, amazake, and shio koji, a delightfully versatile Japanese condiment. The enzymes in koji turn starch into sugar and protein into deep umami flavors. It can be used to tenderize meat, thicken sauces, and add sweet and salty depth to just about anything. At Juniper and Ivy in San Diego, koji is never listed on the menu, but chef Anthony Wells uses it as a secret ingredient in a dozen different dishes, creating pumpkin gochujang for kampachi tostadas and whipping cashew miso with sweet potato to pipe into agnolotti. “It’s a…

CHEF, RESTAURATEUR, and TV personality Tanya Holland is known for her soulful and seasonal cuisine. In her most recent cookbook, Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West, she puts her mark on red velvet cake, incorporating a hearty beet puree into the batter to create a batch of red velvet beet bars with a sweet yet earthy flavor and a dense, blondie-like texture. “I love that they aren’t overly sweet,” says Holland. “And I like that the beets add a hint of nutritional value.” For a special version of the bars for F&W, Holland includes brown butter in the batter as well as in the tangy sour cream frosting to suffuse each slice with a toasty, nutty aroma and flavor, playing up the indulgence factor. “For the…

WHISKEY HAS LONG BEEN PEGGED AS A BOLD SPIRIT that lays a solid foundation for robust cocktails like Manhattans and old-fashioneds—or that’s suitable for drinking straight—but don’t let that fool you. Whiskey is actually one of the most versatile liquors around when it comes to cocktails. It spans a world of flavor profiles, from bourbon on the sweeter side to Irish and Scotch whiskeys that are loaded with savory characteristics. In cocktails, sweeter whiskeys play off ingredients like vermouth and orange liqueur by highlighting their sweeter notes, while the potent, more savory whiskeys tend to be a more dominating presence. A deep dive into all the variations of whiskeys could take a week, but here are a few quick and useful tips that every spirits drinker should know. In cocktails,…

“I’ve always been confident that simple, delicious food is good on its own terms. You just have to not mess it up.”—JUDY RODGERS AT ZUNI CAFÉ IN SAN FRANCISCO, the wood-burning brick oven in the center of the dining room entices diners to give in to the simple luxury of a perfectly roasted chicken. Chef Judy Rodgers, the owner of Zuni Café who died in 2013, said that the oven came first: She added the now-famous chicken to the menu to take advantage of oven space—and to challenge guests to reconsider the bird. Rodgers knew diners tended to skip chicken when they ate out because it was so ubiquitous at home. But a beautiful roast chicken was reminiscent of the food she ate during her time as an exchange student…

THE SHOW OF THE SUMMER last year was FX on Hulu’s The Bear. Drawing loose inspiration from Mr. Beef in Chicago, the culinary-driven series drew praise from cooks for its all-too-accurate portrayal of the restaurant industry as well as food that actually looks delicious. In particular, The Bear’s famous layered chocolate cake has become an object of obsession, with fans rushing to replicate the recipe or seek out a slice for themselves. In The Bear, the chocolate cake is the creation of aspiring pastry chef Marcus, portrayed by Lionel Boyce. When the character baked his first chocolate cake, it supposedly tasted great—“whoa” great, as his sous chef, Sydney, played by Ayo Edebiri, described it. But as viewers come to learn, Marcus is a perfectionist. Balancing the The Noma Guide to…

I MOVED FROM NEW YORK CITY to rural Pennsylvania 20 years ago. And to my surprise, other than a limited farm stand, I couldn’t get my hands on fresh, local produce, let alone organic fruits and vegetables. So I decided to grow my own. I’ve gardened steadily since then (I became a master gardener in 2006), and though fresh and local produce is more readily available these days, I still get the most joy and satisfaction when I cook what I’ve grown myself. Whether you have a backyard or just a windowsill, fresh, homegrown produce is completely attainable. That’s what this new column, F&W Grows, is all about. I’ll point you to the herbs, fruits, and vegetables that are best—and most delicious—when grown at home and share expert tips on…

BOURBON, IT’S SAFE TO SAY, has gone bonkers. Or let’s say collectible bourbon has—but when even a relatively mundane bottle like Weller Special Reserve can bizarrely start vanishing from shelves at three times the official price, what defines “collectible” is a good question. This wasn’t always the case. From the 1970s to the early 2000s, bourbon sales were in a steep decline; the era of Cosmos and appletinis was not kind to brown spirits. But then, things reversed course—and how. The first release of Pappy Van Winkle 23 Year Old, back in 1998, sold for about $125 a bottle. Now, Pappy 23 is over $5,000 a bottle, if you can find it. Or take Michter’s, a revered but defunct Pennsylvania-based brand that entrepreneur Joseph J. Magliocco resurrected in Kentucky in…

For Nasim Alikhani, there is a certain rhythm and flow, a crescendo building up to Nowruz. The Persian New Year, an ancient celebration marking the arrival of spring and symbolizing renewal, demands it. There is a house to be cleaned; batches of tiny cookies (almond marzipan, rice, chickpea) to be baked; new clothes and shoes to be freed from their tags and proudly worn; and the haft-seen—an array of auspicious items including wheatgrass for rebirth and goldfish for prosperity—to be set on a table or on a cloth known as sofreh. All this is just a small slice of what happens in preparation for the big event: a meal where family and friends gather at one’s home and feast together over a time-honored menu of whole fish; sabzi polo, an herb-laden…