Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2023 i Food & Wine

2021 DRY CREEK VINEYARD DRY CHENIN BLANC ($16) Dry Creek’s founder David S. Stare fell in love with Loire Valley Chenin Blanc—specifically the wines of Vouvray—at a time when everyone in California was ripping out the variety. For many years now, the winery has used grapes from Clarksburg for the wine; the result is a crisp, peachy white that’s also a stellar value. 2020 STEININGER RIED STEINHAUS RIESLING ($39) In the depths of winter, I keep thinking back to this sunlight-filled Riesling from Austria’s Kamptal region. Its dry, vivid flavors recall wildflowers, lemon zest, and fresh herbs—just the lift you need for cold weather. I had it in Maine in August with raw oysters; now I think I’ll find another bottle and revisit that pairing. 2016 MASI COSTASERA AMARONE DELLA…

Caramelized Cabbage With Caraway-Chile Crisp ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 5 MIN SERVES 8 Packed with a variety of textures, this stunning vegetarian dish pairs juicy seared cabbage steaks with creamy, sweetened labneh and smoky chile crisp. The cabbage is marinated in a bright Champagne vinegar brine before being steamed until tender and then seared and roasted to pick up a golden brown, caramelized crust. Look for cabbages that are heavy for their size and have tightly wrapped green leaves. CABBAGE MARINADE 4 cups Champagne vinegar4 cups cold water6 Tbsp. granulated sugar2 Tbsp. kosher salt1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced (about ¼ cup)4 large garlic cloves, smashed1 (¾-oz.) serrano chile, thinly sliced (about 2 Tbsp.)1 small (½-oz.) bunch fresh dill, plus more for garnish STEAMED CABBAGE 2…

RECIPE FROM KHÂLUNA MINNEAPOLIS THERE ARE VERY FEW DISHES I am willing to get on a plane for, just to eat again. But I would sit in a metal tube in the sky a million times over for a plate of chef Ann Ahmed’s bucatini talay. It’s a standout dish on a menu of standout dishes that form a bridge to her home country of Laos at her Minneapolis restaurant Khâluna. Some might be tempted to label the bucatini as “fusion,” which these days often connotes a thoughtless mash-up of dishes from two cultures. This noodle dish, however, is so much more than smushing Laotian and Italian flavors together. Talay, which translates to “sea” in Laotian, references the generous use of seafood. The sauce that clings to each noodle is luxurious but…

I HAVE A CONFESSION. I live in Colorado, surrounded by famous mountain resorts, yet each winter, my friends and I fly to Europe to ski. But it’s not powder we’re chasing; our days are carefully plotted around on-piste lunches, après-ski cocktails, and wine-paired dinners. So you can imagine my excitement when I heard about a chef who has transformed a tiny Swiss hamlet into a world-class food destination near some of the best skiing in the Alps. For two decades, Andreas Caminada has quietly been turning heads at Schloss Schauenstein, his three-Michelin-star restaurant and boutique hotel in Fürstenau, a village in Switzerland’s Graubünden canton that lays claim to the title of smallest city in the world. Lovers of Swiss food pilgrimage here to dine on whimsical dishes like bite-size mustard…

Gather Round THERE’S A SCENE in the 1990 movie Days of Thunder where Robert Duvall’s character, Harry Hogge, is in his workshop whispering lovingly to the steel chassis of a stock car that Tom Cruise will race to victory. “You’re going to be perfect,” Hogge tells the inanimate metal frame. Cue the dramatic music and montage of his team assembling and painting the No. 46 car in the colors of a bottle of Mello Yello. The Alabama woodworker Samuel Fisher looks more like a founding member of The Allman Brothers Band than a fictional NASCAR legend, but I can imagine him in the 500-square-foot workshop of his Birmingham home talking to planks of wood before turning them into one-of-a-kind tables and cabinets. A visionary craftsman, Fisher can look at a…

THE THIRD-WAVE COFFEE MOVEMENT ushered in an era of stoicism when it came to coffee drinking. If you dared adulterate your perfectly roasted and brewed single-origin coffee—gasp—with anything beyond a bit of foamed milk, you were shamed by what felt like everyone around you. But I love the occasional flavored coffee—especially when it’s done right. So when I came across a bottle of syrup from Transcendence Coffee flavored like my favorite South Asian dessert, gulab jamun, I immediately had to order a bottle. Started by Mitalee Bharadwaj and Lisa Yala, two friends who met working barista jobs in college, Transcendence is shaking up the coffee world by introducing flavors inspired by global cuisine. They are onto something: Often, syrups for coffee are cloying and artificial tasting. The gulab jamun syrup…

COOKING IS ONE WAY I like to bring paradise to the dead of winter, reimagin-ing traditional Mexican meals to bring warmth to dark, cold nights. In my riff on tostadas, for example, a braise of chicken thighs, tomatoes, onions, and charred poblano chiles sits atop creamy mashed potatoes. And nothing cheers me up like the beautiful floral flavor of toasted almonds in my weeknight-friendly and fast mole almendrado (recipe opposite), which pairs really well with sweet kabocha squash, grilled fish, or poached chicken. —PAOLA BRISEÑO-GONZÁLEZ Braised Chicken and Poblano Chiles ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 45 MIN SERVES 4 Chicken thighs are braised in a spicy tomato sauce with fire-roasted poblano chiles for a delicious guisado. In her ode to street tostadas, Briseño-González pulls inspiration from the potato topping,…

IN THE WORLD OF COCKTAILS, there might not be a more easily recognizable drink than a Bloody Mary. This savory, spicy, vodka-spiked, tomato juice–based drink is a brunch classic, albeit with a murky history. Conflicting reports regarding its provenance and creator run the gamut, but its look and taste have been much more consistent—until now. Today, bartenders from the South of France to Las Vegas are transforming the Bloody Mary into almost unrecognizable iterations—some of which, as the recipes that follow show, don’t look anything like the tall glass of red liquid with celery stalks shooting out of it. At Bar Galerie du Fouquet’s in Cannes, France, bar manager Emanuele Balestra says the Bloody Mary’s complex flavor makes it a great candidate for reinvention. But for a pre-dinner cocktail, he…

It came looking for me. My boyfriend (now husband) declared early on in our relationship that he adored chocolate. It was the 1990s, and I pleased him with homemade chocolaty goodness, from truffles and mousses to German, flourless, and molten lava cakes. (I used Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s OG recipe; see p. 104.) For Valentine’s Day, he gave me heart-shaped boxes of chocolates from the drugstore, which offered us more giggles than savors. He loved my cooking, and I fell for his silly romanticism. Over the years, as I got to know chocolate better, I stopped seeing it as an ingredient limited to desserts and holiday novelties and came to realize that chocolate is multidimensional and complex, begging to be better understood. Simran Sethi, journalist and author of Bread, Wine, Chocolate: The…

KNIVES ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT tools in your kitchen, full stop. “Wait,” you say. “I’ve heard fancy TV chefs insist that our hands—nature’s Leatherman!—are our greatest cooking implement.” Ever tried to chop a carrot with your bare hands? Of course, in order to use a knife to its fullest potential, you need the right one for the task at hand. In the pages that follow, we’ve zeroed in on the most fundamental knives used in Western kitchens: chef’s knives, serrated knives, and paring knives. These are the three essential types of blades that every home cook should own, and we offer pointers (pun intended) on when to use them and the best versions to buy. Even better, all of those recommendations are the result of hours of rigorous testing in…

BEHIND THE WARM GLOW of Light Soy, the playful fish-shaped lamp, is a story of savvy environmental activism and genius design. Since its launch in 2020, Light Soy has been the signature lamp from Sydney, Australia–based Heliograf. The lamp’s cheeky name and form are inspired by shoyu-tai, the small, fish-shaped soy sauce holders that were invented in Japan in the 1950s and popularized outside of the U.S. for takeout orders around the world. The tiny, squirtable container is made from single-use plastic that is nearly impossible to recycle. It has a big carbon footprint for about a teaspoon of soy sauce. Heliograph’s Australian founders, Angus Ware and Jeffrey Simpson, believe that with the right sourcing and design, plastic can be a beautiful and sustainable material. Each Light Soy lamp is…

I ATTENDED MY FIRST DAY of culinary school in cowboy boots. It was a rookie move; the shoes, comfortable in most contexts, stood up poorly to four hours of kitchen work and made my whole body ache. The next day, I bought my first pair of proper kitchen shoes—comfortable, slip-resistant, closed-toe Dansko clogs—and since then, I have developed a small collection of kitchen clogs. The ones that I am complimented on the most are my colorful Calzuros. First popularized by medical professionals, Calzuro shoes are Italian-made rubber clogs that come in more than 15 vibrant colors. They have little bumps on the insoles that massage your feet as you wear them, an enormous bonus for cooks who are on their feet all day. They’re waterproof, protective, and comfortable, and you…

LEMON CREAM HOW DOES A CHEF CREATE A RECIPE? In Claudia Fleming’s case, the answer has changed over time. Back in her days at Gramercy Tavern in New York City, with a staff of 10 chefs, she reveled in complexity: “Any dessert without at least three components just wasn’t dessert,” she reminisces. These days, the pastry chef and cookbook author embraces simplicity. “There’s a desire to just make that one thing as perfect as you can,” she says. One recent creation is her twist on lemon curd: lemon cream, which introduces two key ingredients to transform the texture and enrich the flavor. Classic curd is a combination of citrus zest and juice, egg yolks, sugar, salt, and butter. Fleming adds gelatin, heating it to a precise temperature to guarantee the…

REMEMBER THAT LEFTOVER BOX OF PUFF PASTRY in your freezer? The one purchased over the holidays for quick-to-assemble appetizers and desserts that now finds itself lonely and left in the cold? This year, for a genius way to use mine up, I’m turning to quesitos, the beloved Puerto Rican treat. Golden and flaky, rolled up with tangy cream cheese and a variety of sweet and fruity fillings, these pastry twists are a best-seller at Puerto Rico’s 787 Coffee and are as simple to make as they are delicious to enjoy. Bake up a batch, and serve with café con leche. —ANDEE MCKENZIE Guava Quesitos ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN SERVES 12 Translating to “little cheese,” quesitos are generously stuffed with sweetened cream cheese and, in this case, fruity…

I was exhausted when I first met Zoey Xinyi Gong. Despite the coffee I had downed earlier, I found myself low on energy—something I blurted out as I stepped into the chef’s apartment in Brooklyn. She looked at me empathetically and seemed to know just what to do. In red heels—her house slippers—Gong glided from the door to her expansive pantry of dried herbs, fruits, flowers, grains, and fungi. “American ginseng, jujube dates, longan, tangerine peel, goji berries,” she said as she collected the ingredients in her cupped hand. “This is good for fatigue.” Gong rinsed the dried goods and threw everything into a black ceramic pot of simmering water. A few minutes later, she poured an ochre-hued herbal tea into a glass and handed it to me with a…

“A customer requested [the cakes] for a party. That’s when we discovered that the insides ran—everyone loved them.”—JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN WHEN FOOD & WINE PUBLISHED THE RECIPE for Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s molten chocolate cakes in 1999, we declared them to be perfect. That hasn’t diminished with age. The ubiquity of the once-haute ’90s dessert has exploded throughout the years. In Jon Favreau’s 2014 film Chef, “chocolate lava cake” is presented as the avatar of outdated white tablecloth cuisine. The dish remains omnipresent in all manner of restaurants, grocery store freezers, and even Hershey’s Kisses. Chef Michel Bras is often credited as the originator of the form—a liquid chocolate center surrounded by more firmly cooked cake—as a “coulant au chocolat” in 1981, but his method has a few fundamental differences from the rendition that JGV…