Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2022 i Food & Wine

NV PALS CAVA BRUT ($23) This bright, appley, toasty sparkling wine from Spain serves two great purposes: (1) It would be perfect for any holiday party, and (2) 10% of the sale of each bottle goes to support ALS research, in honor of wine importer Steve Miles, who passed away in 2018 due to complications from ALS. JAVELIN VODKA ($23) A combination of neutral grain spirits and a grape-based spirit from O’Neill Vintners, this new vodka is poised and pure. (It makes an excellent vodka martini even for a gin guy like myself.) Plus, 100% of the proceeds from each sale go to Razom, a nonprofit providing aid to Ukraine. BLIND AMBITION ($7 RENTAL ON AMAZON) This feel-great documentary follows a group of four Zimbabwean refugees who become sommeliers…

Pour a Drink Glassware tinted in dusky shades of gray, blue, and ochre are a sleek twist for your pouring pieces. Bake a Pie Who says pastels are just for spring? Channel sunshine with these brightly hued mixing tools. Roast a Bird Pops of cerulean and navy add elegance and interest to roasting pieces. Serve It Up Eschew your plain white bowls and platters for a lively palette of vibrant pinks, soothing yellows, and mesmerizing blues.…

STUFFED CABBAGE AS SARAH GRUENEBERG was creating recipes for her new cookbook, Listen to Your Vegetables, she took the intentions behind her book’s title to heart. “It’s about giving the vegetables their voice,” she says. “In my head, I give them alter egos. I ask them how they want to be represented in the kitchen, how they want to be presented.” When it came to cabbage, the voice Grueneberg heard sounded unmistakably like her grandmother Lillian, who taught her to peel the leaves off a head of cabbage, shred and sauté the core, mix it with crushed crackers and thyme, and roll that mixture into the leaves for a presentation that looks like a whole cabbage. A version of that stuffed cabbage dish, dubbed Lillian’s Stuffed Cabbage, graces the menu…

HERE’S THE THING: People buy more wine during November and December than they do at any other time of the year, and that’s because they’re buying wine for more people than at any other time of the year. Thanksgiving, holiday parties, Hanukkah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, you name it—the end of the year is about getting together with friends and family and celebrating mightily. So the quest is for a wine that your near and dear will love rather than loathe, and that won’t decimate your bank account at the same time. To that end, I’ve shared 15 of my favorite American wines for $20 or less, bottles that bat way above their level. And keep in mind: At many stores, if you buy a case (12 bottles), the discount you get—often…

MY FIRST TRIP TO ST. JOHN was by catamaran, from neighboring St. Thomas, in 1991. After that, my family and I came and stayed for one week each February. The island, a 9-mile landmass in the U.S. Virgin Islands that falls just east of Puerto Rico, was a familial home away from home, and after my father died, at a too-young 57, the rest of us took a sailboat from Caneel Bay Beach and took the dust of him to sea, with Springsteen playing in the background. In those early years, and even later, St. John was sleepy. Watching the island develop has been a bit like watching a pot starting to boil, something that happens not at once but incrementally. And then, five years ago, back-to-back Category Five…

“It’s the natural mate for every meat.”—OCEAN SPRAY CRANBERRY SAUCE ADVERTISEMENT, 1958 WHAT’S RED AND JIGGLY with ridges all over? Canned cranberry sauce, otherwise known as a highly polarizing American holiday tradition that divides Thanksgiving into two camps: Team Homemade and Team Canned. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly who invented homemade cranberry sauce, but one of its earliest documented appearances with turkey can be found in the 1796 cookbook American Cookery, where author Amelia Simmons suggests pairing roast turkey with boiled onions and cranberry sauce. Canned cranberry sauce, on the other hand, was invented in the early 20th century. Back then, cranberries were considered a seasonal fruit, available only between September and November, until a lawyer-turned-cranberry-grower named Marcus Urann changed the cranberry life cycle—and the Thanksgiving table—forever. Urann’s initial…

Worth Your Salt OK, TURKEYS. Roasting season is upon us, and with it, convivial meals around the table; mouthwatering aromas of perfectly cooked birds; mahogany brown skin and crispy, fatty bits; and sumptuous pan juices. If you’ve been reading Food & Wine for a while, chances are you’ve roasted your share of turkeys. (If you’re a newbie, start with Culinary Director at Large Justin Chapple’s recipe on p. 43. Butterflying, or spatchcocking, the turkey is a technique that ensures the legs and breast cook to the right temperature at the same time.) But let’s back up: Do you season your bird at least a day ahead of cooking? The simple, foundational practice of pre-seasoning—sometimes called dry-brining—is vital, delivering deeper flavor and juicier results than a sprinkling of salt just before…

WHY MAIL ORDER A TURKEY, when every supermarket carries them? They’re better-tasting birds, for one. Many purveyors partner with farmers who raise heritage turkeys, with an emphasis on slow-growing breeds that develop richer, more concentrated flavor on smaller frames. The birds tend to be pasture-raised or free-range, so they eat a diverse diet while having plenty of room to roam. This combination adds up to savory, succulent meat, skin that easily crisps up, and different proportions than supermarket poultry (most notably, a smaller breast). They’re also better for farmers since they can sell outside of the standard market and get more for their hard work, and better for the land, putting less stress on the soil and environment. While the turkeys are a splurge, these factors, to us, make this…

WHEN PERTEET AND FRED SPENCER met in college, their families’ food traditions became central to their relationship. Fred’s grandmother regularly presided over family meals; she was “the cook, the queen,” he says. Perteet’s family meals were a mix of soul food and Liberian and other West African dishes; her mother is from the South, while her father immigrated to Minneapolis from Liberia when he was 17 years old. “At Thanksgiving, we ate cassava leaf, mac and cheese, collard greens, and oyster casserole,” she recalls. “We always had the big Tupperware dish of cassava that was permanently stained with palm oil. There’d be way too much food on the table, but the cassava always goes first. There’s no big meal without it.” Those dinners inspired the Spencers to found a…

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN a bit obsessed with mushrooms. I drew them constantly as a kid. Later, in my twenties, I came to love them even more through my work as a photographer. I am captivated by beauty in nature and food, and mushrooms have been my constant muse. In the past few years, there has been a notable shift in cultivated mushroom availability. Gone are the days of supermarket button mushrooms under plastic wrap as the sole option for the curious home cook. Specialty mushrooms once available only to foragers and chefs are now widely sold in nearly every size, shape, and color. Farmers markets are teeming with piles of puffy lion’s mane, hen-of-the-woods, and oyster mushrooms (in yellow, blue, gray, and pink), and many grocers stock multiple fresh…

AS THE DIRECTOR of innovation and quality for Denver’s Stem Ciders, Patrick Combs prefers to think like a painter. And artists require the right medium. Every five days, a truck brings freshly pressed culinary and dessert apples from southern Washington that Combs then ferments with white wine yeast, creating what he calls a “blank canvas.” He then fills his culinary palette with lemongrass, oolong tea, turmeric, and grapes, creating ciders evocative of rosé wine or a salted-cucumber snack. “One of our cofounders jokes that our official slogan should be, ‘Wow, that’s actually pretty good,’” Combs says, laughing. Across America, regional cider-makers are riffing on classic cocktails, blending apples with fruits, hops, and herbs and reviving tannin-rich heirloom cultivars ideal for producing elegant ciders, not for eating. An estimated 15,000 varieties…

“WAIT! WE NEED WINE!” THAT’S CARLTON MCCOY, CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates and host of this holiday dinner, realizing that although the food is on the table, something crucial is missing. A wine dinner with no wine? He’s to the kitchen and back with bottles before anyone notices—not a typical CEO move, but most CEOs aren’t also Master Sommeliers. The setting is Stony Hill Vineyard, hidden in the woods high above the floor of Napa Valley. The bottles are a mix of Napa Valley old and new. The guests are Napa luminaries—such as Cathy Corison of Corison Winery, with her husband and partner, William Martin; and Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards. There’s a younger Napa generation, as well: McCoy’s girlfriend, Maya Dalla Valle, the winemaker at Dalla Valle Vineyards; Westin…