EVERYBODY’S A CRITIC. Back in 1395, Philip the Bold banned the Gamay grape from Burgundy, proclaiming it low and crappy (well, technically, “très mauvais et très desloyaus,” or evil and disloyal). For growers in nearby Beaujolais, who were quite fond of Gamay, this was a bit like when your older brother puts a Magic Marker sign on his bedroom door saying, “Come in here, and you die.” But Philip’s dismissal had its effect, and for centuries, as red Burgundy garnered its nigh-unto-holy reputation, Beaujolais was confined to being, you know, fun.
Fine. As far as I’m concerned, Mr. Philip I’m-So-Bold can sit around all he wants in his castle, issuing proclamations and glowering at the walls. Personally, I’m pro-fun, and for me, basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages wines are the ultimate…
