Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2022 i Food & Wine

2021 TIBERIO CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO ($25) Toss out your pale pink Provençal rosés, please. This transparently scarlet wine from Cristiana Tiberio, a star in Italy’s Abruzzo region, makes most rosés seem anemic and bland. A traditional style in the region, it’s filled with citrus and wild strawberry flavors. I plan to drink it all month long. THACKREY & CO. PLEIADES XXVIII EDITION ($27) Sean Thackrey, the iconoclastic Bolinas-based winemaker who created this wine, passed away in May, too young at 79. Thackrey was a brilliant thinker, and his remarkable wines—like this luscious, alluring nonvintage Rhône-style blend—remain as a memory to his talents. 2019 RAMEY WINE CELLARS RITCHIE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY ($75) I poured several older vintages of this single-vineyard California white at the new Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience in May.…

AS A CHILD, I was always afraid of the bowl of ambiguous yellow sauce camped at the end of our dinner table. It was sour and spicy, a little fruity and a lot funky; my elementary-aged palate struggled to decipher its complexity. The sauce is amba, a condiment made of pickled mango and pungent spices. And nowadays, I can’t get enough of it. Amba is a diaspora food that tells the story of the Jews of Iraq. Iraq was once home to the oldest and largest population of Jews in the world; there have been recorded populations since 586 B.C., during Babylonian times. Now, there are fewer than five Jews. My obsessively recorded family history in Iraq dates back over 2,500 years, since the destruction of the First Temple in…

MY SECRET FOR FLAVOR-FILLED MEALS any night of the week? Marinades that do double duty as dressings and sauces. Using a few fresh ingredients and some pantry staples that pack a punch, I whisk a simple marinade together and let my protein of choice get tender and juicy while I light the grill or preheat the oven. To make the marinade go the extra mile, I make sure to set some of it aside so I can amp it up with some fresh herbs and thin it to a drizzle with some citrus juice—or leave it simply as is—to use as a finishing sauce that adds effortless pizzazz to my meal. These are back-pocket recipes to learn and lean on for weeknight cooking that feels special enough for a dinner…

THE GRAY-SHINGLED HOUSE with the pink shutters opposite the tennis courts in Oak Bluffs has been a part of my life for so long that I cannot recall what it was like not to journey to Martha’s Vineyard each summer. I can still remember when my family purchased it, in 1956; the journeying up-island to retrieve the key from the realtor and the searching for the hidden fifth bedroom that was only revealed when the sun shone through a window on a back stairway. I can recollect the small living room that existed before we expanded the house in the times before the Copeland historic district and its design watchdogs put an end to that sort of thing. I vividly recall the parties that were held, the friends and relatives…

Keep It Simple WHEN I GROW UP, I’m going to build the outdoor kitchen of my dreams, the one that I’ve sketched in notebooks dozens of times. For now, the backyard patio will suffice. Many nights this summer, you’ll find me out there cooking over a basic propane burner. Much though I love my grills and outdoor pizza oven, the propane burner has turned out to be the most versatile outdoor gear I own and the one I recommend the most. I got my first one 20 years ago to deep-fry Thanksgiving turkeys and learned about its utility over time. The ring burner on my current four-legged stainless steel model cranks up to 59,000 BTUs. That kind of output quickly brings a tall pot of water to a boil for my…

COOK THE COVER SHRIMP BOIL LIKE “BARBECUE,” “shrimp boil” is both a noun and a verb, a regional dish cooked in tall pots over propane flames from the mid-Atlantic region all the way down to the Gulf of Mexico. I grew up in North Carolina obsessed with peel-and-eat shrimp, especially those fished out of pots of Frogmore stew in the South Carolina Lowcountry and those cooked and spiced like Maryland crab farther north. Now, I live in the Deep South, where my shrimp boil has taken on a slight Cajun accent. It still bobs with corn and potatoes, but now, the Italian sausage is andouille, the Old Bay spice mix is sometimes Zatarain’s, and the wild shrimp is always sweet, plump, and scooped from the Gulf. While all of those ingredients are…

THIS CHOCOLATE-RASPBERRY ICE CREAM CAKE (p. 48) is my answer to summer days when I want to serve a beautiful cake but it’s too hot to turn on the oven. It’s creamy, it’s dreamy, and it’s so simple to make. Crushed cookies, fresh raspberries, and layers of sorbet and ice cream transform into a gorgeous marbled layer cake in about 15 minutes—no frosting required. Those fresh raspberries sink into the milky, sweet layers of vanilla ice cream, adding a tart flavor and pops of color to the cake, and crunchy chocolate cookie layers are the perfect sweet and salty counterpoint, adding satisfying texture and a hint of bittersweet flavor. After a deep chill in the freezer, the cake slices beautifully, revealing deep pink, creamy white, and rich dark-chocolate cookie swirls.…

“Newest way to enjoy hot corn on the cob without burning your fingers.”—ADVERTISEMENT FOR THE COB NOB CORN HOLDER, 1999 ALTHOUGH HUMANS HAVE FARED JUST FINE using our fingers to eat hot, buttery corn on the cob, history has seen a dizzying number of inventions that assist in the corn-eating experience. In 1897, Mary Donnelly obtained one of the earliest patents for a corn-holding accessory, the “Corn-Fork,” which had a pacifier-shaped handle and three sharp prongs. Carl Bomeisler patented a corn holder in 1909 that looked like a mini sword, with a blade to wedge into the corn and a handle engraved with kernels. In the 1950s, Bomeisler’s design morphed into the corn holders that can still be seen at barbecues today—the yellow plastic ones that look like mini corncobs,…

FOR THOSE OF US whose hosting game might be feeling a little rusty after a couple of years of social distancing, a new breed of party planning service has got your back. Whether you need help to pull together a sit-down dinner party for six or extend an open invitation for drinks and graze-as-you-may snacks for 20, these companies make menu planning, decorating, and shopping for ingredients and wines not only feel like a breeze, but also extremely fun. Read on for a few of our favorites. AT YOUR SERVICE PLAN Brenna Gilbert launched Feste (lovefeste.com) last year when she saw a huge gap in the party planning industry, with hosts having to choose between an inexpensive “peck and find” approach via online retailers or shelling out for a full-service planner.…

I’VE KEPT A GUEST BOOK ever since I started throwing dinner parties at home in New York City 13 years ago. The dining table in that first apartment may have been small—it was my coffee table, actually, and my chairs were backless and ground-level (i.e., they were the floor)—but there was always a guest book. Something about the term “guest book” makes it sound stuffy, but I assure you that, unlike grape shears or a cake breaker, guest books deserve a place in this century. My guest book isn’t fancy—it’s paperback, not leather-bound, and there’s certainly no stand for it—and I don’t require that my guests write anything particularly meaningful in it. In fact, they don’t have to write anything at all: signatures, drawings, stickers, favorite quotes, lewd poems…

EVERYBODY’S A CRITIC. Back in 1395, Philip the Bold banned the Gamay grape from Burgundy, proclaiming it low and crappy (well, technically, “très mauvais et très desloyaus,” or evil and disloyal). For growers in nearby Beaujolais, who were quite fond of Gamay, this was a bit like when your older brother puts a Magic Marker sign on his bedroom door saying, “Come in here, and you die.” But Philip’s dismissal had its effect, and for centuries, as red Burgundy garnered its nigh-unto-holy reputation, Beaujolais was confined to being, you know, fun. Fine. As far as I’m concerned, Mr. Philip I’m-So-Bold can sit around all he wants in his castle, issuing proclamations and glowering at the walls. Personally, I’m pro-fun, and for me, basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages wines are the ultimate…

IT’S 8 P.M. ON A SUMMER NIGHT AT ST. HELENA’S CRANE PARK, AND THE BALLS ARE ROLLING. THE NAME OF THE GAME IS BOCCE. The teams battling it out, at least on this court, are the Sand Crabs—so named, apparently, because when you play bocce you sort of shuffle along like a crab before you bowl—and Balls on Ya. The overhead lights are bright; with 17 teams on eight lit courts, there are a hundred people here, easy, mostly in the wine business in one way or another. Bocce is a simple game. There’s a long dirt court, sort of like a shuffleboard court. Whoever starts off stands at one end and tosses the golf-ball-size white pallino down to the other end. Then, teams take turns rolling larger colored balls…