WHO AMONG US hasn’t sidled up to a bar at some point in time during a pregnancy, before a big race, or simply in a stretch of clean living and asked the bartender, in a voice mixed with hope and hesitation, “Do you by chance have a mocktail?” (Well, we may not have used that word exactly, but you know what I mean.) Now, the lazy or unimaginative bartender will demur and slide over a sweaty club soda with a sad little anemic lime floating on top. But in this moment, the intrepid bartender sees opportunity and will answer the call to surprise and delight. Such a bartender is British drinks master David Hurst.
“In my experience, creating well-balanced and tasty virgin cocktails has always taken far more ingenuity,” writes…
