Break out some aquavit. This Scandanavian spirit, distilled like gin but steeped with different botanicals, is increasingly showing up on American store shelves, and is the perfect match for cured fish. Linie, from Norway, is the most widely distributed brand and packs a mellow caraway flavor. But keep an eye out for aquavits from American microdistillers, such as Montana’s Skadi (named for the Norse goddess of bowhunting) or the stellar dill aquavit from Wisconsin’s Gamle Ode.
Drink it neat or ice-cold or, to ward off a streamside chill, do as the Danes do: Drop a coin into a coffee mug, add just enough coffee to cover the coin, and then add aquavit until you can see the coin again.…