Innholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2023 i FASHION

WE HAD BEEN PLANNING to write about MuslimGirl.com founder Amani Al-Khatahtbeh long before 22-year-old Mahsa Amini died after being detained by Iran’s morality police. Al-Khatahtbeh has had a profoundly different experience than Amini in relation to the hijab. While Amini was arrested after wearing the head scarf “improperly,” Al-Khatahtbeh, who lives in Los Angeles, has made experimentation with the garment a signature part of her style. And as free as the 30-year-old Palestinian-American author and activist is in contrast to the women of Iran, it was extreme bullying and Islamophobia that led Al-Khatahtbeh to found her groundbreaking website, which has given Muslim women a voice and aims to help educate the broader public on their values. “We operate with weapons of mass communication,” she tells FASHION contributor Ingrie Williams in…

YOU WERE BORN IN HAMILTON, ONT., BUT YOUR PARENTS ARE FROM VIETNAM. HOW HAS YOUR BACKGROUND INFLUENCED YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH FASHION? “My parents came to Canada because of the Vietnam War and literally left everything behind. So I always remind myself to be fearless, and when I say fearless, I mean it’s OK to be scared—you just can’t let that fear paralyze you. But I’ve always been the dreamer of the family, and I took a very non-traditional route. I had to prove to my parents what I was capable of, and I said, ‘If I’m going to go into fashion, I’m going to succeed.’” IS IT TRUE THAT YOUR FIRST FASHION SHOW WAS AT AGE 12? “Eleven or 12. When I was a kid, my mom never let me…

LOOK 1 Inspired by “the spirit of an oracle,” Nicolas Ghesquière designed this opening outfit to resemble religious imagery. But his use of lava-like blistered jacquard fabric and metallic threads created a result that can only be described as otherworldly. LOOK 10 Ghesquière constructed this layered look made of linen and blistered silk as an ode to the desert and its inhabitants. The intergalactic texture of the dress underneath was derived from a form of tactile needlework called pastille embroidery. LOOK 19 The glittered leather in both the gladiator-style dress and the moto-inspired jacket in this look emphasizes the artisanal craftsmanship of the design house while blending the past with the present and potentially the future. LOOK 52 To emulate the look of armour, the Louis Vuitton team used lambskin…

ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF FASHION can feel like a long time, with styles evolving and, more often than not, returning. (We see you, low-rise jeans.) But for the designers who took part in the 100th edition of the Santa Fe Indian Market in New Mexico, clothing is about so much more than trends. “Fashion today is just a continuation of who we are as a people and how we’ve always expressed ourselves,” says Lauren Good Day, one of 15 designers from Canada and the United States who staged runway shows at the world’s largest Native American art market in August. Styles varied from those with traditional Haida images, like in Dorothy Grant’s work, to menswear by Orlando Dugi that was inspired by the creation story in Diné culture. Celebrity models…

From political activists to musical greats, Black trailblazers have challenged the status quo and broken barriers, making it possible for the community to be seen and appreciated. Honouring these individuals is the focus of the Black History & Culture Collection—a photo bank created by Getty that launched this past summer with over 30,000 images dating from the 1800s to today. The collection provides educational institutions, media outlets and content creators with free and improved access to rarely seen images with the goal of fostering more authentic representation and storytelling. “This is an opportunity to highlight amazing content buried within our archives that shows how Black culture has been involved in the mainstream,” says Cassandra Illidge, vice-president of content and brand partnerships at Getty and the lead on the project. “We…

Sylvia Mantella’s parents don’t know what to think about her Gucci collection. Now, that’s not to say they aren’t supportive—far from it—but the vice-president of marketing, sponsorship and philanthropy at Mantella Corporation admits that they’re often at a loss for words when they’re confronted by it. “I’m not shy with my fashion, so sometimes my dad just shakes his head at what I’m wearing,” she laughs, referring to her signature 15-centimetre platforms, patterned suits and flower brooches—all made, of course, by Gucci. And considering her humble beginnings, it’s easy to see why. Although Mantella was born and raised in Toronto, her mother and father emigrated separately from the Czech Republic in 1968. “They had to restart their lives, so we didn’t have a lot of money for clothes when I…

SMALL WONDERS Everyone knows that good things come in small packages, and the Fendi Nano Baguette is no exception. While many might be familiar with its older and larger counterpart—Carrie Bradshaw’s purple purse in Sex and the City—this baby bag and coordinating glove were created in honour of the Baguette’s 25th birthday. The bag might not be able to hold more than a lipstick and a key to Mr. Big’s condo, but that doesn’t stop it from making a supersized style statement.…

Lady Gaga “Gaga is the queen of avant-garde fashion, and she uses it as performance art. I’d like to see her in this look because it’s severe yet soft and balances feminine and masculine qualities.” Gwen Stefani “It’s always been a dream of mine to dress Gwen because I really admire her bold and experimental style. Not many people can wear black and white without having the garment consume them, but she can.” Megan Thee Stallion “Confidence is key when you’re wearing my designs, and Megan embodies that to the fullest. I think she could wear an oversized structural puffer and still have all that strength shine through.”…

THANKS FOR THE UPDATE “I would say that going to places like the Natural History Museum and The Metropolitan Museum of Art when I was growing up is really what made me love jewellery,” muses Sandra Paccione, founder of History Time Travel. “Seeing all the different types of styles throughout history, I became kind of obsessed.” She initially studied archaeology but came to realize that it was the curation aspect that drew her to antique objects. Fittingly, her costume jewellery label offers both found items and pieces she has reconceptualized with flourishes like vintage rhinestones and hand-painted florals. The assortment is heavy on figural finds—that is, jewellery crafted to look like animals or people. PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER Paccione learned how to buy and sell jewellery while working in a…

LATHER UP Good ol’ bar soap delivers a clean sensation that’s second to none. Fenty Skin Cocoa Cleans’r Soothing All-Over Cleansing Bar ($18) combines coconut and baobab oils, shea and cocoa butters, cocoa powder, vitamin E and plantain extract to gently sweep away impurities. Skin is left feeling soft and conditioned—not stripped. MOOD SETTER A bath hits differently when the room is filled with a soft, flickering glow. Montreal model turned perfumer Ruby Brown has teamed up with family-run Germain Hotels to develop the Canadian chain’s first-ever signature scent. Dubbed the Amber Collection, the four-piece made-in-Canada body-care line includes this scented candle ($40). It’s a surefire way to feel like you’re relaxing in plush accommodations. Better Together Let a massage be part of your regular post-bath practice. We recommend using…

Whether you’re outdoors getting pummelled by the elements or inside with the heat blasting, four-plus months of freezing winds and low humidity levels wreak havoc on all skin types. Both environments can compromise your skin’s barrier, which is the outermost layer responsible for locking in moisture. “The level of dryness is determined by the quality of the barrier,” comments Dr. Danny Guo, a dermatologist based in Calgary. A weakened barrier opens the door to flakiness and irritation and can even trigger skin conditions like eczema and rosacea. The good news? A complete overhaul of your skincare routine isn’t necessary. “Regardless of the season, you should stick to the same basic steps,” says Dr. Nazli Ghiasi, a dermatologist and the owner of MapleDerm in Vaughan, Ont. Gentle cleansing, hydration and sun…

Hair, Ian Russell for Cadre Artist Management. Makeup, Franceline Graham for Cadre Artist Management. Props, Dani Reynolds for Cadre Artist Management. Photo assistant, Nicolas Emas Varone. Models, Jonathan Azar for Elite Toronto and Trudy Crane for Niwa Models.…

Off the Wall From a distance, Louis Vuitton’s latest collectible could easily be mistaken for a real paint can. But up close, the fine leather, embossed logos and detachable shoulder strap make it clear that this is no hardware-store staple. The style debuted in the final collection designed by late creative director Virgil Abloh, who had a knack for elevating everyday essentials. Whether the rest of your outfit is semi-gloss or matte, carry this bag and you’ll be sure to shine.…

Wall Street Wardrobe We’ve learned to expect the unexpected from Balenciaga. Just when we thought artistic director Demna was going to go bigger and bolder, he headed back to the basics. Take the new Garde-Robe line—a collection of easy-to-wear wardrobe classics—which made its debut during the brand’s Spring 2023 presentation at the New York Stock Exchange. To our surprise, the looks that sauntered through the trading floor (read “runway”) were understated enough to earn closet-staple status yet still featured signature elements of the Balenciaga silhouette, like hourglass waists, exaggerated shoulders and elongated hemlines. CHILD’S PLAY Trust Dior to take something as simple as stickers and make them look sophisticated. In honour of the seventh edition of the Dior Lady Art project, the French brand tapped Canadian artist Sara Cwynar to…

Paralympian and world champion fencer Beatrice Maria Vio Grandis—better known as Bebe Vio—pops up on our video call with a beaming smile and no sign of nervousness, even though she is about to take to the L’Oréal Paris runway during Paris Fashion Week. “I’m feeling many different emotions being here,” says Vio, who was named a global spokesperson for the beauty brand this past summer and is taking part in the annual show for the second time. “Last year, I met so many new people. This year, it feels like we are all part of the same team. It’s such a beautiful thing to be in this very mixed group from varied cultures who have different ways of thinking.” At 25, Vio is one of the youngest members of the…