Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2022 i FASHION

Miniskirts, low-rise jeans and tube tops appeared at Miu Miu, Versace and Diesel—a puzzling development for several reasons. Most obvious is that these were fall, not spring, shows. And while many consumers live in the southern hemisphere or warmer climates, it’s still a bit odd to see so much skin in collections that traditionally target cooler weather. Sure, minis and bare midriffs fit with the roaring Y2K revival. But the real head-scratcher, writes Meaghan Wray in “Wear Thin” (page 23), is the lack of body diversity at a time when society has supposedly slimmed down on fat-shaming. The likely explanation, Wray says, lies in the countless social media posts about the Y2K trend by ultra-slender Gen-Zers—the demo that dictates what goes viral. But what are people with other body types…

With two decades of making over thousands of women from across the globe under her belt, Trinny Woodall says there’s one thing she can often determine the minute she meets a new client: the decade in which they learned how to do their makeup. “I’ve noticed that women tend to stick with a look that makes them feel their most appealing,” says the 58-year-old former fashion journalist who came into stardom as one-half of the straight-talking duo on the BBC series What Not to Wear. “As they go down the path of life, that look reminds them of a feeling they once had—of power, success and confidence in themselves. Their makeup becomes an automatic thing. But when you wind your movie forward 10 years, your face’s shape, texture and colour…

EVERY CULTURE has its teachings and learnings—preserved as pearls of wisdom and passed down from generation to generation. Growing up, I remember ghee (clarified butter) being a dinnertime treat. My mom would spread it on rotis and mix it into our rice for that extra-buttery goodness. Kitchen ingredients also seemed to find a way into my family’s beauty regimens, like homemade facial masks made of turmeric, yogourt and honey to soothe dry skin or coconut oil massaged into hair. Little did I know that years later, these routines would become a weekly ritual for me, too. And it was only when I became a beauty and culture writer that I realized how all these ingredients are tied to Ayurveda, which translates to “knowledge of life.” This centuries-old Indian healing system…

IDENTITY CRISIS Birthdays—a time for cake, presents and identity crises. But instead of turning 29 for the second year in a row, you could channel your anxiety into high-fashion finery—like Iris van Herpen did for her 15th-anniversary collection. Each look from her Fall 2022 couture show presents a profound study in identity and in digital versus physical reality. Consider this trippy take on the two-face trope, created with embroidered upcycled ribbons. It’s best worn in times of great turbulence—like, say, living through the 2020s.…

Is old the new black? In jewellery, yes. Vintage has long been the hot new thing in the fashion world. Now, jewellery has joined the trend—especially at the top end, where antique-cut diamonds are all the rage. This, of course, is fuelled by not just aesthetics but also ethics, since old stones leave no new scars on the earth. MET GALA MOMENTS At this year’s Met Gala, in May, Kate Moss wore a French-cut diamond bracelet by Tiffany & Co., circa 1910, with old mine-cut diamond earrings and an old mine-cut diamond necklace, both from the mid-19th century. Billie Eilish rocked vintage Fred Leighton, including an old European-cut diamond riviere necklace, circa 1900. Singer Stromae worked a 1906 Cartier brooch with old-cut and rose-cut round diamonds. And model Amber Valletta…

“I like to use this to exfoliate in the morning. It has gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, two gentle polyhydroxy acids.” Trinny London Tiptoe In PHA Exfoliant, $56 “I do a vitamin C serum in the morning and a retinal treatment at night.” Trinny London Overnight Sensation Retinal Serum, $125 “When I’ve been filming or in meetings all day, I’ll apply my BFF Cream with my fingers over my existing makeup to give my skin back its glow.” Trinny London BFF Cream in “Light-Medium,” $59 “If I’m rushed, I’ll shower with a gel cleanser. Otherwise, I’ll use a cleansing balm and go through a ritual: I inhale the product, apply it all over and do a lymphatic massage.” Trinny London Better Off AHA/PHA Gel Cleanser, $48, and Be Your Best Enzyme…

This vegan and sulfate-free clarifying shampoo is gentle yet powerfully effective at removing tough product buildup while replenishing hair with moisture-boosting vitamins. Malibu C Un-Do-Goo, $18 Suitable for all curl textures, this shea butter- and rice bran oil-infused conditioner is super hydrating—plus free of harsh sulfates, parabens and mineral oils—and provides the hair with good slip for detangling. PrettyKind Curl Defining Conditioner, $29 Made with shea butter and argan oil, this light leave-in conditioner can be used alone or under styling products and also doubles as an effective detangler. Up North Naturals Go-2 Hydrating Hair Milk, $26 This water- and aloe vera-based gel defines, elongates and hydrates curls and coils when applied to soaking-wet hair. Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curly Magic Curl Stimulator, $35 Lightweight and paraben-free, this foam has sunflower…

IF ANYONE HAS A SHOT at dethroning the reigning queen of reality TV, Kim Kardashian, it’s former Miss Universe turned influencer Olivia Culpo. Think about it: Twelve-year age gap aside, both found early fame on social media. Both have their own signature styles and makeup looks, coveted by many. And now, with the upcoming release of the new Discovery+ series The Culpos (a working title), produced by Amanda Weinstein of Keeping Up With the Kardashians fame, both women have their own TV shows featuring their big families. There’s definitely potential for Culpo to become the next Kim K, but she is far too modest to ever say so. When we chat on the phone in July, she’s with her entire family on their farm in Rhode Island and tells me…

GIVING IN TO ISLAND TIME Since Lauren Manoogian launched her eponymous label in 2008, her name has become synonymous with subtly sumptuous knitwear—the kind you’d expect to see on someone you think has it all together yet stays entirely humble about such pervasive perfection. This season saw a slight departure from her typically ultra-understated designs: She presented a twist on the classic Aran sweater—a type of knitwear that originated on islands off the western coast of Ireland. “It’s not unusual for me to look at more traditional textile or knit stitches and then try to pick what I like about them and make them my own,” she says of why she homed in on the familiar fishermen’s pullovers and their braided motifs. “They have these tight, symmetrical layouts that are…

On days when it feels like there’s too much going on, harness that chaotic energy and use it to uplift your mood instead of getting bogged down. Channel the mental movement in artistic abstractionism, and observe the power in its kinetic display. A splash of colour here, a dash of another there—the attitude of a free spirit is one we’re all for. Leave life open for interpretation—and a little considered capriciousness—to make the most of it.…

THE LONG GAME When you’re selecting a go-to foundation for everyday use, there’s one characteristic that should be non-negotiable: long-lasting. Because what’s the point of gushing over a makeup base that’s only going to fade, cake or crease by midday? Infused with hydrating hyaluronic acid and skin-smoothing mandelic acid, Lancôme’s new 30-shade Teint Idole Ultra Wear Care & Glow Foundation ($65) is a dependable radiance-boosting option that promises all-day medium coverage that won’t settle into pores or fine lines. GENIUS in a BOTTLE Wearing a signature scent is comparable to putting on your favourite pair of jeans; it just feels right. And let’s be honest: No one knows denim quite like Glenn Martens, Diesel’s creative director. Just look at the brand’s Fall 2022 Milan Fashion Week runway collection—Martens’s first for…

FACIALIST “Teresa Tarmey, who has a clinic in Notting Hill, does very good radiofrequency treatments, IPL [intense pulsed light] therapy and peels. I always recommend her and her team.” INJECTABLES “I’ve been getting Botox since I was 35 and have always gone to Dr. Jean-Louis Sebagh because I trust him. When you do things like Botox, you have to trust somebody’s process.” NAIL SALON “Eighty-8 in Chelsea. My daughter and I go in tandem.” HAIRDRESSERS “My colouring is done by Marley Xavier, who has his own atelier in Notting Hill. And Greg Hill, who works out of a very famous hairdressing salon called Josh Wood Colour Atelier, does my blow-drying.” CULTURAL INSTITUTION “One museum that I think is underrated is the V&A. It always has really interesting fashion-focused exhibitions, like…

Since its inception in 2016, Biossance has been an industry benchmark-setter for its progressive attitude toward sustainability. The California-based clean-beauty brand, which was founded by a collective of scientists, formulates its products following strict guidelines. It doesn’t use any of the 1,376+ ingredients banned in Europe as well as over 500 additional ones that the company itself has identified as being potentially toxic. Plus, it has been verified by the Environmental Working Group and its entire line is powered by a renewable sugar-cane-derived squalane, a hyper-effective moisturizer that’s naturally found in our bodies. (Previously, the popular ingredient was commonly sourced from shark liver oil.) What’s more, Biossance also sells its patented squalane to other beauty companies around the world to help propel the industry forward. Now, a new p.m. retinol…

BEST BEAUTY ADVICE “Alber Elbaz said: ‘You’re short—that’s what’s beautiful about you. Don’t try to be tall.’ It was very empowering advice because I feel like so much of beauty and fashion is about fixing what’s wrong with us.” DREAM TRIP “I’ve never been to Southeast Asia. I’d like to go to Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Bhutan. I would love to travel through that region.” LATEST READ “I finished Poet Warrior by Joy Harjo. It’s her memoir. She was the Poet Laureate of the United States [the first Native American to hold that honour] from 2019 to 2022, and she’s quite incredible.” FAVOURITE MOMENT “When I pick my kids up from school and we have the afternoon together.”…

Dana Richardson-Blewett doesn’t know how many vintage coats she has in her collection. “I stopped counting once I reached 108,” she laughs from her home in Toronto. “I just can’t tell anymore because there are way too many.” And indeed there are. As the owner of two businesses that sell and rent vintage clothing (Victory Girl Vintage and Victory Girl Collections), Richardson-Blewett has accumulated her own personal reservoir of retro outerwear, which would rival the archives of MGM Studios and Paramount Pictures combined. Her closet is like a perfectly preserved fashion time capsule, transporting those lucky enough to step inside it into a world where long fur stoles from the 1930s and ’40s intermingle with psychedelic patterns from the ’60s and ’70s and where leather trenches and wool capes conjure…

In July 2019, I found myself Googling “eating disorder treatment for men.” Self-judgment and doubt crept in as I combed through the search results, wondering what my friends and family would think of my current situation. A successful career in fashion had taken me all over the world, from London to Paris and New York to Los Angeles. My resumé boasted work with leading brands and publications, with my most-talked-about position being first assistant to a renowned editor at an international edition of Vogue. In theory, I was living the dream: sourcing haute couture gowns, spending time with supermodels and jetting off to exotic photo shoot locations. But in reality, the fashion industry was cutthroat, and low self-esteem, constant comparisons to others and endless criticism led to a severe increase…

A piece of lace in creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s personal archive inspired this delicate collar for Christian Dior’s Fall 2022 collection. The design, named “D-Renaissance,” takes three to four days to create in a meticulous process that captures every detail of the real fabric. First, a digital artist draws a 3-D image, which becomes a very high-resolution print that takes 50 hours to produce. Jewellery-making techniques are then used to craft the piece in gold-finished metal, and white resin pearls are applied by hand. While lace was just one element of elaborate Renaissance-era costumes, Chiuri showed the collars with minimal white gowns, putting them firmly in the modern day.…