I discovered Kefalonia through my dear friend Irene, who’s taken me around the world and back. Last year, we were pegged to visit Greece for the second time. My daughter, Juliet, and I arrived on Kefalonia in the late afternoon, the airport a tiny strip of a runway and a simple ’70s building. Our plane was late, and our taxi driver was waiting patiently outside, smoking and reading the paper, our names written on a piece of cardboard balanced on the windscreen of his car.
We were staying in a villa about 8km from Fiscardo, a small fishing village. Part of the main road was closed off (it’s since been opened), so you had to take the long way round. Kefalonia is very mountainous, so the roads are quite treacherous,…
