Innholdsfortegnelse for No. 2 i Explore History

History is often seen through the lens of its most powerful dynasties, and there’s no better way to experience the luxury afforded to history’s lucky few than to take in the great halls and grounds of a royal palace. In this issue, we begin with the unsettling secrets of the Tower of London on page 20, a fascinating place that has served so many purposes, before heading to some more of the world’s greatest castles and palaces. We also head to Jordan to discover the city of Petra and discover the ancient people who called it home (page 32), and then to another glorious location with India’s great love letter, the Taj Mahal (page 40). You’ll find a guide to the places that invoke Cold War Berlin on page 48,…

VSSL Flask This is essential for trips into the wilderness. It houses a torch and traditional compass, but its main attraction is a lined inner chamber for storing your favourite tipple. There’s more: stashed in a twist-off compartment are two collapsible cups and a bottle opener. £69.99/$72.50 Leef iAccess This handy compact micro SD adapter for iPhone and iPad is the answer to storage-based woes. When you’re visiting a new place, taking photos is often high on the priority list. But you can soon use up your storage. This adapter changes that, enabling you to add large amounts of storage to your device. £39.99/$49.99 Streetmuseum: Londinium (App) This app from the Museum of London and the History Channel takes you on a journey to Roman London. Through audio and video…

“The Natural History Museum is a secular cathedral dedicated to the glory of scientific curiosity” EDINBURGH CASTLE The last castle I visited was Edinburgh Castle – what an atmospheric site it is, and what an epic history! It played a pivotal role in the medieval struggles between England and Scotland, and I love the story of the Earl of Moray sneaking over the walls with a few men to capture the keep for Robert the Bruce. That’s one hell of a climb. MUSEO DELLA STORIA DI BOLOGNA My wife and I went to Bologna in Italy recently, and found ourselves in the Museo della Storia di Bologna which not only gave us a fuller understanding of the history of the city, but – rather surprisingly – also hosted a…

Vaduz Castle Vaduz, Liechtenstein Resting atop a hill overlooking the Principality of Liechtenstein, Vaduz Castle is home to the prince of Liechtenstein and his family. Initially built as a fortress in the late-12th century, the living quarters of the castle were added at a later date. The Princely Family of Liechtenstein bought the countship of Vaduz, and with it came the castle, with the family using the west wing as its residence until 1732. Left to waste, the castle fell into disrepair until 1904, when Prince Johann II (inset, above) renovated it, extending it and bringing it back to its former glory. Since 1938 the castle has served as the official residence of Lichtenstein’s prince. As you’d expect, the castle is closed to visitors but there are guided tours of…

Currently home to Japan’s Emperor Akihito, the Tokyo Imperial Palace has been the royal family’s residence since its construction in 1888, after Japan’s capital moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. During WWII, the first iteration of the palace was destroyed, though the second incarnation was built in the same style as the original. Sprawling over an area of 7.4 kilometres, the palace is a maze of gardens and buildings, though the inner grounds are usually closed to the public. However, if you do wish to see the grounds, you can book onto a guided tour – the buildings will remain off limits, however.…

The Hermitage Hunting Lodge – or Eremitageslottet, as it’s called in Danish – was built to host parties for banquets by the Danish monarchs. What stands now is actually a replacement for the original, which had been so poorly built that it was uninhabitable by 1734. Torn down, it was replaced with Christian VI’s (inset, above) design. The lodge underwent renovation after renovation for centuries after its construction. One of its final renovations in the 1890s saw the lodge restored to its original decor throughout.…

“ Its regal Neo-Renaissance style and grandeur give it an elegance that harks back to many of its older counterparts” Sinaia, Romania The castle of Peles in Romania may only date back to the 19th century, but its regal Neo-Renaissance style and grandeur give it an elegance that harks back to many of its older counterparts. A merging of many European styles popular at the time, Peles Castle was truly international from conception to completion, with Italian masons, Albanian stonemasons, German carpenters and Polish engineers all working together to realise King Carol I of Romania’s vision (inset, left). After the Romanian monarchy toppled, the castle fell into the hands of the communist government in 1947, who opened it as a tourist attraction temporarily, before closing it down. As the communist…

The fact that John Vanbrugh had never designed a stately home before didn’t seem to concern the Earl of Carlisle. He went ahead and commissioned Vanbrugh for the biggest stately home design of the age – Castle Howard, near York. A man in his 30s, Vanbrugh had no experience of building design, nor any architectural training. He had, however, served some time in prison and written a back catalogue of plays commenting on the perils of married life – not quite the person you might expect to have designed such an iconic and austere building. The controversial Vanbrugh was not just a one-hit wonder when it came to buildings, though. As well as Castle Howard, he designed Blenheim Palace, Seaton Delaval Hall and Kings Weston House, and made many improvements…

1 UNESCO sites Viollet-le-Duc’s works at Vézelay, Carcassonne, Avignon are listed, as is Chartres Cathedral. 2 A leading thinker He felt that every material had an ideal use, and that restoration should be sympathetic and organic. 3 Gothic style Viollet-le-Duc worked on the Basilica of St Denis, the resting place of the French Bourbon dynasty. 4 Housing relics The Crown of Thorns rests in an elaborate, jewelled reliquary designed by Viollet-le-Duc. 5 True inspiration Viollet-le-Duc’s passion for ironwork would later inspire the Art Nouveau movement.…

EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS   www.exporail.org Monday – Sunday: 10am – 6pm (Outdoor site closes 5pm). Adult: $18 (£9.50) Child: $9 (£4.75). Exporail Established in 1961 and officially recognised as Canada’s national railway museum in 2007, Exporail is a 22-hectare treasure trove of railway history. The site includes hundreds of pieces of rolling stock and is just 20 minutes from Montreal. Toronto Railway Museum Situated in the picturesque surrounds of Roundhouse Park, this huge museum complex includes a wealth of restored railway engines and other paraphernalia. Visitors can catch a ride on the miniature railway and try their hand at the steam train simulator. www.torontorailwaymuseum.com Holidays: 12pm – 5pm Adult: $5 (£2.60) Child: $3 (£1.60). Winnipeg Railway Museum Winnipeg’s Union Station is a fitting home for the city’s excellent railway museum.…

Inside Khufu’s Great Pyramids The mysterious pharoah behind Egypt’s breathtaking tombs The Secrets of Medieval Tallinn Discover the Baltic stronghold of the Teutonic Knights Scandals of Versailles Real drama behind the gilded doors of France’s grand palace PLUS: Restoring the historic citadel of Gozo, John Aubrey’s heritage legacy, Treasures of the V&A Museum, Southwest England’s Iron Age hill forts, and much more……

Curtain Theatre finds Excavations at the site of Shakespeare’s Curtain Theatre in Shoreditch, London have uncovered findings less than a month after breaking ground. Walls of up to 1.5m (5ft) high have survived, and a ceramic bird whistle was also found, which may have been used during performances. Ancient tomb in Paphos A tomb was uncovered during routine work by authorities in Paphos, Cyprus, recently. It is believed that the original contents were plundered. The island has many more tombs (above), dating from the Greco-Roman period, 300 BCE – 300 CE. Oldest handwriting found Excavations undertaken by MOLA on behalf of Bloomberg have uncovered Roman texts on waxed wooden writing tablets that predate previous examples. The document itself is a financial document dating from 8 January in 57 CE.…

Elizabeth II’s family home Windsor Castle Berkshire, England Built by William the Conqueror after the invasion of 1066, Windsor Castle proved a vital fortification in London, overlooking the route via the River Thames into London. From Henry I in the 12th century onwards, the castle served as the residence of all monarchs, including George VI (inset, above), whose family, and the staff of Buckingham Palace, were moved to Windsor for safety during WWII. Tragically a fire swept through the castle in 1992, burning for 15 hours and ruining sections of the building. With damage totalling almost £40 million, the question of funding for restoration sparked controversy. In the midst of criticism, the queen opened the State rooms at Buckingham Palace to cover the costs of restoring the castle. Restoration was…

The Hague served as the royal centre of Europe for centuries, with monarchs across the world seeking refuge in its arms. Cradled inside the Hague sits Huis ten Bosch, one of three Dutch royal residences in the Netherlands. Built in 1645, it was commissioned by one of the stadtholders. It became an official royal residence in 1815, however, when William I was proclaimed king. The palace has enjoyed popularity among monarchs since its creation, with Queen Beatrix living there from 1981 to 2014. Current king Willem-Alexander (inset, above) has announced plans to move in soon.…

Loire Valley, France At the heart of the Loire Valley in France sits some of the most glorious European castles and palaces, and among these architectural masterpieces is the Château de Chambord. A mix of towers, turrets and spires, the castle, commissioned in the 16th century by King Francis I of France (left), rests inside a moat, surrounded by pruned fields and gardens as far as the eye can see. Despite its moat and superficial defensive structures, the chateau itself isn’t suited to provide defence – all the elements are purely decorative. After Francis I’s death, the chateau fell into disrepair and was only renovated by King Louis XIII’s brother, Gaston d’Orléans. Look out for The double-helix staircase, which never meets. It was an incredible design feat of its time,…

Of the millions who admire the Taj Mahal every year, many wonder out loud which is the best time to see it – at dawn, when the eastern sun first touches the golden spire? Midday, when the white marble arches offer an escape from the searing heat? Evening, when sunset tinges the guardian minarets with red? Perhaps it’s at night, when moonlight turns the whole mausoleum into a vision floating above its canal and pools. All agree on the magical qualities of this monument, which is not simply the tomb built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for his adored wife, best known as Mumtaz Mahal (see ‘History’s Greatest Love Letter’ on page 42). It is also a temple, a place of entertainment, a memorial to the power and glory of…

To pause now next to the monumental Brandenburg Gate is to find yourself standing on what was once the fault-line running through the heart of Europe. The point where two competing ideologies of the 20th century, capitalism and communism, clashed as they balanced on the ruins of a third, defeated and discredited, dogma – that of National Socialism. The death strip of the Berlin Wall that once surrounded the Brandenburg Gate is no more. Gone are the border guards of the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR) tasked with shooting traitors escaping to the West – replaced with selfie-shooting tourists and street performers posing for photos. The past, it has been said, is a foreign country. In the case of Germany, countries would be more precise. The Bundesrepublik Deutschland of West Germany…

The story of Hemingway’s Spain comes in all the extremes you would expect from the great man: romance and tragedy, high adventure and terrible loss, tranquil beauty and brutal violence. In the early 1920s, he travelled to the country to experience a bullfight first-hand, but this, like his other experiences in Spain, became a lifelong obsession. His first novel, The Sun Also Rises, is his retelling of this adventure, but year after year he returned. Later, he toured with the finest matadors in the country, and in 1932 published Death in the Afternoon, his own homage to Spain. However, Hemingway’s love affair with this country had its own tragedy – the horrific civil war (1936-39). Returning to support the Republican cause, he became a war correspondent and propagandist. After the…

De Zaanse Schans This is more than just one windmill, and is even more than several windmills – the entire area is an outdoor museum, restored to reflect a typical historical Dutch town. It is seen as an early form of an industrial area, but it is the quaintest industrial area you’re likely to see. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS   www.dezaanseschans.nl/en/ Opening times vary – only certain mills are open to the public, but there is a distillery, cheese farm and clog workshop with regular opening times. The mills of Kinderdijk If you’re in search of even more windmills, Kinderdijk is an excellent choice, where you will find 19 windmills, all built in 1740. A large part of the Netherlands is below sea level, and this is a great example of how…

St Winifred’s Well Situated in Woolston, near Oswestry in Shropshire, this tiny Medieval well chapel sits above an ancient spring that still flows today. Built in the name of Saint Winifred, a 7th-century Welsh princess assicoated with Holywell’s miraculous waters, visitors can enjoy a truly secluded stay here. EXPLORER’S ESSENTIALS   www.landmarktrust.org.uk (for all destinations) Sleeps 2, from £151 ($220) for 4 nights Dogs allowed, parking available Nearest train station is Gobowen Kingswear Castle Enjoy stunning dramatic views over Dartmouth at this waterside Devon castle, which seems to be hewn from the very rocks on which it stands. Originally built to defend the harbour and restored to its 1500s appearance, you’ll even get your own flagpole. Nearby attractions include Torquay and Paignton. Sleeps four, from £608 ($800) for four nights. Dogs…

Temple of Isis Harriet Knight “As you approach the temple of Isis on the island of Philae, Egypt, you are dwarfed by enormous block gates carved with beautifully preserved figures. You are then led through a dramatic gangway of columns before you reach the Nile river and the temple Kiosk which rests on its bank.” St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Niall Simmons “This was taken on a recent trip to Bulgaria. The cathedral, in Sofia, is one of the largest Orthodox churches in Europe.” Abbey of Monte Cassino William Andrews “This is the Abbey of Monte Cassino, in Italy. It was the site of the Roman town of Casinum, and its position on the hill made for a perfect photo opportunity.” Il Teatro Greco Dom Sanna “Perched atop the Sicilian coastal…

Kaltenberg Medieval Tournament, 15 – 31 July This Bavarian jousting event attracts 120,000 visitors every year to witness the medieval sport. Namur Medieval Festival, July 2016 Another popular medieval festival, this one sees 500 re-enactors descending on the Belgian town of Namur. Fêtes Historiques de Vannes, 13 – 14 July The walled town of Vannes, Brittany, holds a yearly event celebrating the town’s history. This year’s festival tells the story of Napoleon III. Kentucky Renaissance Fair, 4 June – 10 July Throughout weekends in June – July, Kentucky celebrates sword swallowing, jousting and more.…

Ayutthaya Province, Thailand A mere 60 kilometres away from Thailand’s capital, Bangkok, stands the Bang Pa-In palace, which marked the monarch’s summer home from home. Now open to the public as one of Thailand’s most popular cultural sites, the palace only hosts the current king and queen for occasional events. However, its history is a long and rich one. Built in the mid-17th century by King Prasat Thong, its initial popularity waned with the monarchs and it fell into disrepair quickly. After King Mongkut began the restoration process in the 19th century, his successor rejuvenated the palace further, building most of what stands there today. Made up of multiple buildings, the complex also features a grand, sprawling garden and while the walk around is worth it, you can also get…

Budapest, Hungary Originally built in the 13th century, the first royal residence on Castle Hill in Budapest became a hub of culture, with craftsmen and artists alike flocking to the court of King Matthias Corvinus and his wife, Beatrix of Naples. Tragically this original castle was destroyed, but in its place a small, Baroque castle was built. However, this too was burned down accidentally in 1723. Derelict and abandoned, the public was called upon to raise money to restore the castle to its former glory. Money was raised, plans for the new castle were sketched, and the foundations were laid in 1749. However, fate was not kind to the castle, and work stopped when money ran out in 1758. It would take seven years before work continued on the castle…

“Each successive Ethiopian monarch brought something new to the complex” Ethiopia might not jump to mind when you think of royal palaces, but the Fasil Ghebbi castle is one of the finest examples of a fortress city in the world and proudly sits in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Built in 1636 by Emperor Fasilides, the founding of Fasil Ghebbi marked a transition in the ways of Ethiopia’s monarchs, who had historically travelled around the country nomadically. Instead, the emperor chose Gondar as his capital and began work on his fortress, which not only included the monarch’s residence, but also temples, stables, baths and many other kinds of buildings. In fact, each successive Ethiopian monarch brought something new to the complex, from gardens to palaces – much of which still…

Tachar Château Persepolis, Iran Commissioned by Darius I (left) in 486 BCE, the king died before he could see his vision completed. His son, Xerxes I, however, continued his father’s work and named the castle as his winter palace – ‘taçara’ in Old Persian. Despite its name, it’s thought that the palace was more ceremonial than anything else – it served as part of a complex of what were essentially state rooms. Tragically, the invasion of Alexander the Great in 330 BCE saw plenty of the buildings and palaces in Persepolis burned to the ground. However, Tachar Château seems to have survived the flames, and many of the reliefs and foundations are still visible today. Sigiriya Palace Dambulla, Sri Lanka Hell hath no fury like an illegitimate son of a…

Temple of Dushares Once the largest facade in all of Petra, this temple is in the Parthian style. This is characterised by a mixture of Hellenistic and Persian influences, and this temple would have had two flights of stairs, leading to a flat roof. The Deir Also known as Ad Deir and El Deir (which translates as ‘The Monastery’), the Deir has become one of the most iconic symbols of Petra. A monumental building carved out of Jordanian stone, it measures 50 metres wide by approximately 45 metres high and stands as one of the ancient city’s most enduring images. Urn Tomb Much like many architectural constructions in Petra, the first of the Royal Tombs (known as the Urn Tomb) is built from a huge wall of sandstone. Historians have…

Records suggest, and most people believe, that the prime inspiration for the Taj was Shah Jahan’s beautiful wife, Mumtaz Mahal. She and Shah Jahan became engaged in 1607, when he was 15 and she 14. They were married in 1612, and remained inseparable for almost 20 years. Mumtaz was his companion, associate, close confidante and friend, an essential part of her husband’s lavish court life and his many campaigns. She bore him 13 children (though only seven survived), and in 1631 she was pregnant again. In June that year they were in Burhanpur, 700 kilometres from Agra, campaigning to extend the southern fringe of the Mughal empire. Mumtaz, aged 37, went into labour. There were complications during the birth and on 17 June, she died, while the Shah looked on…

Castle Howard The first of Vanbrugh’s designs, Castle Howard has endured as perhaps his most artistic accomplishment. Although his full design wasn’t completed, the east wing and centre of the house are true to Vanbrugh’s incredible vision and display beautiful Baroque characteristics. Blenheim Palace Built as a celebration of the Duke of Marlborough’s military victory during the War of Spanish succession, Blenheim offers much of the Baroque splendour of Castle Howard, but with a fortified feel. Located in Oxfordshire, the house is about a 20-minute journey from the city of Oxford. Seaton Delaval Hall Now owned by the National Trust, this hall in Northumberland was commissioned by Admiral George Delaval in 1719. Vanbrugh was chosen as architect, though the building would not be completed until after he and the admiral…

Born in Paris in 1814, Eugène Violletle-Duc’s upbringing was anything but traditional. When his parents weren’t hosting salons attended by the biggest names in literature, they were busy instilling in their son the importance of individuality, philosophy and art. As a teenager, Viollet-le-Duc scaled the revolutionary barricades and when the time came for a career, he had his own ideas. Eschewing a formal education, Viollet-le-Duc travelled through Italy, soaking up the inspiration that would set him on the path to architectural fame. With his wanderlust sated, Viollet-le-Duc returned to France and joined Prosper Mérimée’s Commission on Historical Monuments. Mérimée gave Viollet-le-Duc his first restoration project, entrusting him with the restoration of the crumbling abbey at Vézelay. Seeing in his protégé a prodigious talent, Mérimée then appointed Viollet-le-Duc to work on…

Hemingway was not always to be found among the bars and bullrings of Spain, and lived in Paris for several years with his first wife Hadley Richardson, working as an apprentice writer. For much of this time, they lived a deliberately bohemian existence above a shop on the rue Cardinal Lemoine, which was cramped and lacked running water. Soon he was introduced to the city’s literary elite, and fell under the patronage, and mentorship, of poet and novelist Gertrude Stein. She hosted her own salon on the Rue de Fleurus, on the bank of the Seine, where artists, writers and expatriate socialites all congregated. In the aftermath of World War I, Stein dubbed Hemingway and his contemporaries as members of ‘The Lost Generation’, irreparably scarred by the effects of the…