Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i Esquire

HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR SIDECAR • Casually splash equal parts—about 1 ½ oz each—VSOPgrade cognac, Cointreau, and fresh lemon juice into a large 1930s-era silver Christofle cocktail shaker full of ice. If your splash of cognac is a bit bigger than your splash of Cointreau and your splash of Cointreau is a hair bigger than your splash of lemon juice, so much the better. • Shake well. • Strain—using a vintage silver-plated French strainer— into a large chilled cocktail glass. • Clink glasses with Gaz. • Drink. • Die. THIS IS MY FINAL column as Esquire’s Drinks Correspondent. (To those tipsy few who’ve been regular readers, I say fare thee well and extend my sincerest thanks for your attention.) Contemplating the endiness (to coin a word) of this, I…

SOME THINGS YOU JUST DON’T DO IN high-end watchmaking—e.g., a quartz movement in a manufactured piece, which violates the cardinal rule of timepieces (mechanical or bust!) in snooty horological circles—that is, unless you’re F.P. Journe, the Swiss watchmaker (see below) who’s innovated the EL48, an electromechanical quartz wristwatch with a backlight and a tiny motion sensor just over the 4. After the piece has been at rest for 30 minutes, it goes into standby mode. When the sensor detects movement, the EL48 snaps to attention, spinning the hands to the current time. Cool as the effect of a possessed watch is, the trick actually extends the EL48’s battery life from an industry average of two to four years to nearly a decade. Mechanical, shmechanical. WHO THE F IS F.P. ?…

BETWEEN THE BIANNUAL runway shows and the annual trade shows, the endless catalogs crossing our desks and the appointments, we see lots of things. Through this ever-revolving door of pieces, though, a few jump out enough to make us say, “How do we get our hands on that now?” This season, we love what we’re calling superflat sunglasses, by makers such as [1] Tomas Maier ($290); [2] Marc Jacobs ($150); and [3] Saint Laurent ($430), which have a squared-off (as opposed to a wraparound) profile for a sharp, angular look. We’re also keeping our eyes on Feit’s hiking boots (and their Vibram Gumlite outsole) and the double-breasted loden jacket from Canvas by Lands’ End—a coat that proves good taste doesn’t have to be expensive.…

1. LAB SERIES MAX LS MATTE RENEWAL LOTION This daily moisturizer hydrates your face while reducing shine. $65; labseries.com 2. THE ART OF SHAVING SANDALWOOD SHAVING CREAM Coconut and essential oils soften and prep your beard. $25; theartofshaving.com 3. NIVEA MEN CREME This all-over balm treats not only your face but also your hands, body, and elbows. $5; niveamenusa.com 4. BYREDO MISTER MARVELOUS SOAP Incense and cedar turn your shower into an aromatherapy session. $30; mrporter.com 5. MOLTON BROWN LIP SAVER Emollients rich in vitamin E prevent your smile from cracking. $18; moltonbrown.com 6. PHILIP B. PEPPERMINT & AVOCADO SHAMPOO Invigorate your scalp with crisp peppermint oil (2 percent of the formula). $32; philipb.com 7. PENHALIGON’S BAYOLEA DEODORANT Try this tweed-scented combo of lemongrass and sandalwood. $30; mrporter.com 8. BAXTER…

I The Parable of Leo USUALLY THE CHURCH COMES first, then TV. For most of televangelicalism’s history, that’s how it’s worked. But when Vous Church was born last fall, its arrival was documented on an Oxygen reality show called Rich in Faith, and even then, the titular Rich, Pastor Rich Wilkerson Jr., was already almost famous, having officiated the wedding of Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, guested on Kourtney and Khloé Take the Hamptons, and attended to the soul, such as it is, of Justin Bieber. Vous may still be, in Pastor Rich’s terms, a “baby church,” but when I visited earlier this year, he was filling three services every Sunday. Each was staged to perfection, from the neo-emo praise band to the climactic baptisms in front of a DJ…

IN MY CONNECTICUT backyard, on scorching late-summer days when the steering wheel is too hot to touch and the locusts won’t stop droning away, I sometimes get a split-second flashback of the town two thousand miles away where I was born: Odessa, Texas. You may know it better as Dillon, the spur-jangling screen name it was given in the television series Friday Night Lights, which Peter Berg, who is profiled on page 116, is celebrated for creating. As a director, Berg has made a range of big movies, but all of them share at least one thing in common: His characters—a soldier in Afghanistan, American oil workers in Saudi Arabia, an electrician on a doomed rig in the Gulf of Mexico—are exactly the type of guys you’d find in the…

WHAT’S IT LIKE as an actor to portray someone you know, let alone your mother’s friend? And when your mom happens to be Meryl Streep and said pal is Nora Ephron? “I felt very honored,” says Grace Gummer, “and also this huge responsibility.” The 30-year-old costars as the late journalist and director (a former Esquire columnist) on Good Girls Revolt, a new Amazon series inspired by the female Newsweek staffers who sued the publication for discrimination in 1970, just as a cover story on feminism—written by a stringer—hit newsstands. As with her turns on Mr. Robot and The Newsroom, Gummer brings a convincing intelligence to the role—you can’t help but feel Ephron’s devotion to the cause. “It is not that long ago that women weren’t allowed to be credited as…

NAME: OUIGI THEODORE AGE: 40 WHAT HE DOES: Theodore founded and runs the Brooklyn Circus, a men’s-wear store in New York City and San Francisco that’s expanded into a clothing line with vintage American inflections. HOW HE FOUND HIS STYLE: I grew up surrounded by refined women—my mother, aunt, grandmother, four sisters—and they all believed that style was more than clothes; it’s living with character and interiors and depth. I live by that idea. WHAT HE KNOWS: I’m interested in looking elegant but approachable. That’s what I love about vintage. The people who collect vintage want to preserve something. They nurture relationships. It’s a worldview. STYLE ICON: Miles Davis, in his clothes, but mostly his being. He lived during a Jim Crow era of civil-rights struggles, but he had fearlessness…

A ONE-MAN INDUSTRY (he’s reinvented the shotgun for Beretta and the fountain pen for Hermès), industrial designer Marc Newson has now reengineered the rolling suitcase for Louis Vuitton. Newson transformed the exterior of Vuitton’s Horizon 55 by applying undyed, age-worthy leather over the luggage’s polymer shell. But more revolutionary is what he’s done to the interior: By transferring the retractable handle to the outside and removing the internal rod-shaped lumps and bumps that plague most wheelies, Newson enlarged packing space by 15 percent. And because it’s Vuitton, any time your case gets damaged, you can have it repaired within 48 hours in 14 cities worldwide. Talk about baggage handling.…

IT’S A COOL GRAY day in July, and I’m climbing a dormant volcano with Ewan Mc-Gregor. We’re halfway up Arthur’s Seat, a rocky summit that looms over Edinburgh’s medieval Old Town. Robert Louis Stevenson once described this promontory as “a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design,” which is Scottish for “steep as shite.” I’m already winded. McGregor is as chipper as a puppy going for its morning walk. When I stop to catch my breath and soak up the view, he flashes me a grin—that terrific, lupine Ewan McGregor grin—and announces that he can already see tomorrow morning’s tabloid headline: ewan kills journo at last. He tips his head back, laughing, and pats me on the sweaty shoulder. Then he gambols up the stony path.…

Christian Anwander PHOTOGRAPHER OF “BOLD MOVES,” PAGE 136 Credentials: His work has appeared in Complex, Glamour, GQ, and more. Best new discovery: Chef Francis Mallmann. Nostalgic for: Anything old with an engine inside. Looking forward to: Fly-fishing during the fall salmon run. Rich Cohen AUTHOR OF “MASTER OF DISASTER,” PAGE 116 Credentials: Author of 12 books and cocreator of HBO’s Vinyl. Best new discovery: Maine. The entire state. Nostalgic for: Root-beer floats in Eagle River, Wisconsin. Looking forward to: The Cubs’ first World Series appearance since 1945. (“Please forgive me, almighty God of the jinx.”) Vicky Ward AUTHOR OF “THE SURVIVOR,” PAGE 102 Credentials: Editor at large of Town & Country and best-selling author. Best new discovery: South African artist Peter Sacks. Nostalgic for: A pre-Brexit Britain. Looking forward to:…

1. A GAMBLER’S ANATOMY By Jonathan Lethem The author of The Fortress of Solitude delivers a haunting Kafkaesque parable about a backgammon hustler who comes down with a nightmarish illness, losing his edge in the game of life. (Doubleday, $28) 2. NICOTINE By Nell Zink “I was hailed on my life raft by the passing container ship Franzen,” Nell Zink said of the writer who nudged her out of obscurity and into friendly competition at age 50. Her latest follows a business major rooming with anarchist squatters. (Ecco, $27) 3. THE TERRANAUTS By T. C. Boyle Is there life on Mars? For people, that is. Eight “terranauts” move into the Biosphere 2–like E2 to find out in this preapocalyptic tale from a master of maximalism. (Ecco, $27) 4. THE…

WHILE IT’S NOT QUITE the Polo Bar—Ralph Lauren’s white-hot midtown restaurant that’s perhaps the only spot that can draw both Woody Allen and Kanye West—the new Kipton Mixologist might be as close as mere commoners can get to the clubby RL bar experience. Housed in a carrying case wrapped in saddle leather and lined in tartan wool, the set includes a crystal decanter, lowball glasses, coasters, and a silver snack cup. Just add the Macallan Rare Cask and rocks. Portable bar set ($3,995) by Ralph Lauren.…

LEAVE IT TO THE GUYS across both oceans to give a slick twist to a classic American style. If the lumberjack shirts by cult Japanese brand Visvim (above) already feel like years-old flannels you can’t part with, thank the cotton fabric’s texture-building dobby weave; also, the hand-applied indigo dye enables the shirts to weather the years better than your current favorites. And the chunkysoled, Italian-made moccasins by Gucci offer a hybrid between the duck boot and the boat shoe that somehow looks cooler (more modern, less preppy) than the originals.…

AS MUCH AS WE LOVE THE LOOK and practicality of a waxed sporting coat, not all occasions call for something appropriate for shooting pheasants in drizzly British hinterlands. For those of us who live in places where game refers to Pokémon Go, Zegna’s introduced the Trofeo Country, which delivers the trappings of a Barbour— weatherproof coating, corduroy collar, detachable inside liner—in a more tailored cut, giving it the urban ease of a bomber or a Harrington. Pull it on over a sweatshirt for your Sunday-morning caffeine run; the Trofeo gets its impermeable finish courtesy of resin, so you can brave the elements without any of traditional wax’s, um, distinct smell.…

AS I WALK TO MY $700 HAIRCUT, I wonder what to expect. Sideburn-measuring technology developed in the CERN laboratory? Shampoo containing the placenta of Saint West? My salon visit was inspired by the news that France’s president, François Hollande, spends $11,000 a month for an on-call hairstylist. And let’s be honest— when you look at Hollande, don’t you ask, “Eleven grand? For that?” As someone who pays $40 for a haircut, though (I look like an econ professor at Carleton), I wonder if getting the Full Hollande could transform my life. I can’t afford a monthly retainer, but my editors have agreed to pay for the priciest cut I can find in New York—a $700 trim at Julien FarelRestore Salon & Spa on Park Avenue. The salon is…

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Since he left Germany for Paris with his first wife in 1978 to shoot for Stern, Peter Lindbergh has worked primarily as a fashion photographer. He works a lot, too—enough to fill the new, 524-page book Peter Lindbergh: A Different Vision on Fashion Photography (Taschen, $70) many times over. And yet: “He is not a fashion photographer,” says Franca Sozzani, the editor of Vogue Italia. “He uses fashion to talk to women and to talk about women, which is different.” Lindbergh, now 71, says he was “uninspired” by the female image then—and, to a large extent, still—being manufactured by the industry. “I wanted to move away from the rather formal, quite perfectly styled woman who was very artificial,” he says. “My ideal was always the young women I met in…

MUCH OF WHAT I KNOW about painting I learned from Bill Dickerson and his wife, Betty—or Mr. and Mrs. D, as they were known to their students. Together they ran the School of the Wichita Art Association on the 19th-century French-atelier model. I started with them when I was nine. Every August, Bill would load his dustcolored van with painting supplies—it was his portable studio—and head west to New Mexico. When he returned in mid-September, the van would be filled with paintings, nearly every one a stunning essay on how to bring forms in nature to life on a twodimensional surface. The watercolor I have is dated 1970, from one of his last trips out west. I bought the picture from a dealer sometime in the ’90s. It hangs in…