ANTOINE WESTERMANN has always had a rebellious streak. For nearly four decades, his brash but elegant spin on old-school haute cuisine won over the world’s most discerning diners at his Strasbourg farmhouse restaurant, Le Buerehiesel, in his native Alsace. By the mid-’90s, he was considered one of the top chefs in France, known for his intense, primal sauces—saffron on lobster, blood on wild duck. He was rewarded with three Michelin stars, which he held until 2006, when, in a characteristically gutsy move, he handed them back. Westermann was done with fine dining.
“I wanted to be more accessible, to leave behind the universe of luxury,” says the chef, now 70 years old. He then settled in Paris, where he’d opened a satellite bistro, Mon Vieil Ami, nine years earlier. “I…
