An early English chemist once noted that aging a spirit in a barrel turns it into "a dilute tincture of oak." Or, in the case of some Brazilian cachaças, of ipê, balsamo, louro-canela, amendoim, amburana.
Cachaça, the Brazilian national spirit, is made in vast quantities, all of it distilled from fresh sugarcane juice (as opposed to molasses, from which the vast majority of rums are made) and almost all of it destined for domestic consumption. The cachaça that does get exported is mostly what Brazilians classify as "industrial," a thin, raw, mostly unaged spirit that's okay in a caipirinha but not for sipping. In Brazil, however, there are hundreds of small, truly artisanal producers whose products rarely see the inside of a shipping container. Many of these cachaças are aged…