Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2019 i epicure

Scott Dunn Sustainable travel is at the core of specialist tour operator Scott Dunn’s eco-conscious itineraries, with the luxury tour operator going as far as to offer carbon offsets for their guests. Their latest Walking Tour packages personify their philosophy. Walk Tajikistan takes guests through breath-taking landscapes of the lesser-known country, including the remote Fann Mountain range and Silk Road. For the former, the trek will be led by an experienced team that includes a guide, cook and donkey handler, and will offer views of mountain panoramas and azure alpine lakes. Finally, stop at Iskanderkul, the ‘jewel of Tajikistan’, home to a 43-metre waterfall. The 10-day itinerary includes accommodation, full board, private transfers and selected experiences. S$4,300 per person. Walk India focuses on the pristine biomes of the Indian Himalayas.…

TAN WEI MING, chief consultant, creative director and principal partner of Silver Rue Art Consulting What is the business model of Silver Rue Art Consulting? As a consultancy, we adopt a comprehensive approach to corporate collection management – from purchasing and commissioning artworks to appraising them for purposes like insurance and asset management, to developing databases, exhibitions, content and programs for such collections. Our main clients are banks, developers, hotels and public institutions. What are the key challenges in your field of work? I would hesitate to call this a challenge, but our core business vision is to encourage clients to truly appreciate cultural value - this goes beyond the monetary value of a painting or the visual pleasure that a sculpture offers. A work of art is not mere…

It’s the most wonderful time of the year and W Singapore – Sentosa Cove is all set to seduce your taste buds with a succession of festive feasts. Expect decadent five-course dinner menus, roasted turkeys, honey glazed ham, and mouthwatering log cakes. The Christmas Eve Dinner Buffet ($138/person, $178/person with free-flow alcohol) at The Kitchen Table offers highlights like Oven Roasted Turkey with chestnut stuffing and Whole Leg of Honey Baked Ham served with roasted country vegetables and buttered mash. The Christmas Day Brunch (12pm to 2.30pm: $168/person, $228/person with free-flow alcohol; 3pm to 5.30pm: $158/person, $208/person with free-flow alcohol) is a treat for the sweet-toothed who can indulge in six different yule logs such as Vanilla Traditional Mulled Wine Brownie, Pistachio Chestnut, refreshing Yuzu and Old Style Chestnut. Savoury…

On 30 October at the Raffles City Convention Centre, the Singapore edition of Sopexa’s annual Best Sommelier Competition in French Wines drew a lineup of four strong male contenders. Daisuke Shibuya from Sun with Moon Japanese Dining & Café Singapore and Irwin Tan from Les Amis, who placed third and fourth respectively last year, returned to the stage, and were joined by Alvin Neo from Esora Restaurant and Marcus Tan from Odette. Daisuke and Marcus made strong showings, especially in the wine tasting and cocktail making portion, and emerged champion and first runner-up respectively. Last year’s champion, Yeo Xi Yang from Park 90 joined the judging panel alongside Annette Scarfe MW, Richard Hemming MW, Mathias Camilleri MS, epicure’s wine editor June Lee, and other professionals. Stephanie Rigourd returned as master…

Mandarin Orchard Singapore has pulled out all the stops this festive season, starting with a life-sized gingerbread house at the hotel lobby followed by a carolling performance by the Vocal Consort from 22 to 25 December. With both Orchard Road and the Great Christmas Village in full swing, Mandarin Orchard Singapore – as the official hotel for Christmas on a Great Street 2019 – will be offering special room packages, perfect for a year-end staycation. Triple Three will host a Christmas buffet filled with a spread of festive roasts, including classics like Honey-glazed Gammon Ham and Roasted Turkey. There will also be tempting fusion dishes like Oven-roasted Kumamoto Wagyu Beef and a Miso-marinated Foie Gras with Shaved Black Truffles. Yule logs, fruitcake, stollen and panettone complete the lineup. $108/person and…

Nestled in the lush greenery of Bresela Village, Payangan, The Kayon Jungle Resort by Pramana is the idyllic getaway for couples or travellers looking for inner tranquility. Perched on a hill with the distant sound of Wos River rushing below, the resort is a vision of Balinese tropical architecture, made of gray lava stone, white paras, and bamboo. Located 30 minutes away from Ubud, the property offers 38 spacious suites and exquisitely designed pool villas. A stay at the Kayon Premier Pool Villa offers an uninterrupted view of the verdant green valley. The one-bedroom villa is designed for comfort. A carved stone siren spouts water into the infinity plunge pool next to a wooden deck patio and a private jacuzzi. Extend the poolside indulgence with a floating breakfast filled with…

Santa Claus doesn’t only slide down the chimney — he can also come riding on the waves of Jimbaran Beach. Take your Christmas celebrations to the tropics and bask in the joyous time at Sundara in Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. There, you can chill out with a slew of signature cocktails. The beachside venue will launch a festive lunch and dinner Christmas set menu on 17-25 December. Alternatively, for a Christmas buffet that comes with a bonus view of the bay, head to Taman Wantilan on 24 and 25 December. Choose from two gourmet options on New Year’s Eve. You can dine at Sundara and savour a tantalising eight-course degustation dinner by executive chef Phillip Taylor and chef de cuisine Made Adijaya. Or experience an interactive five-course…

As the first five-star rated Hotel Indigo in the world, Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach exudes modern luxury. Apart from a beachfront location and 289 meticulously designed rooms, suites, and pool villas, guests also have access to one-stop dining in the heart of the hip neighbourhood. For this joyful season, the hotel has prepared a gastronomic experience at five of its F&B outlets. Book Makase for a family-style dinner feast with Santa as the guest star on 24 December. For a Christmas Day lunch, go for the five-course set menu with free-flow beverages at SugarSand beachside restaurant and bar. Get in the Christmas spirit with Tree Bar’s special happy hour cocktails on 24 and 25 December, from 5pm to 7pm. Then, make your way to Salon Bali for a five-course…

Are you looking for a refuge to have a tranquil year-end getaway? Wapa di Ume Resorts has two properties to suit your needs. Situated in the quiet part of Ubud, Wapa di Ume Ubud offers 33 rooms, suites and villas, centred on a green belt of rice fields. Foodies will also appreciate the authentic Balinese cuisine at Mr Wayan, Balinese Cuisine or at Wapa’s Restaurant during your stay. Thirty kilometres away, Wapa di Ume Sidemen offers an off-the-beaten-path experience. The resort is situated in the quaint village of Sidemen and offers a majestic view of Mount Agung. Have a leisurely breakfast at the resort’s all-day dining venue, Sleeping Gajah Kitchen & Lounge, and enjoy the peaceful sounds of surrounding nature. Join the al fresco Christmas Eve Dinner celebration at both…

For more than 10 years, Anantara Seminyak Bali Resort has become an inseparable part of Seminyak Beach’s landscape. Since November, it received a resort-wide refurbishment. All the 59 luxury suites, public areas, leisure facilities, and two of the resort’s beloved dining venues, Sunset on Seminyak and MoonLite Kitchen and Bar, now sport a new look to usher in 2020 in style. Indulge in a stay at the Seminyak Ocean Suite, where you can enjoy breakfast and daily high tea served by your private butler as you take part in the Christmas and New Year’s Eve festivities. The revamped Sunset on Seminyak will host a Christmas Eve dinner by the beach with a classic home-cooked style set menu. Join the Christmas Day buffet brunch on 25 December and extend the indulgence…

With its capacious garden and long stretch of white sandy beach, Ayodya Resort Bali is an ideal venue to throw a big-scale convival party. From 25 December to 31 January 2019, the resort will launch the longest beach party in Nusa Dua called Big Shots at Eden 2020. Every day from 5pm until late, a solid lineup of DJs, bands, dancers, and a saxophonist will entertain revellers at Ayodya Beach Club & Grill. Party-goers can book one of the resort’s 537 rooms and suites. With eight dining venues, there is a different treat every night. Tuck into a Christmas buffet dinner at Ayodya Beach Club & Grill on 25 December. Free-flow sushi is the highlight at Genji’s Japanese buffet dinner on 26 and 29 December. Octopus Ristorante offers a Mediterranean…

The Oberoi Group has launched its latest project, The Oberoi, Marrakech. The 84-room strong property takes design inspiration from Marinid and Andalusian architecture, paying tribute to the iconic Medersa Ben Youssef. Choose between plush rooms, lavish suites and magnificent villas, many of which come with a private garden and pool. The hotel’s 28-acre landscaped gardens also offer unparallel vistas of the snow-clad Atlas Mountains. Room rates start at MAD5,000/SGD706 per night. The Oberoi, Route d'Ouarzazate, Morocco. Tel: +212 5 2432 2727 Aman Kyoto, the third Aman property to open in Japan, is situated within the 32-hectare forest at the foot of Mount Hidari Daimonji, Kyoto. Housed within six guests pavilions are 26 guest rooms, each designed to evoke the feel of a traditional, minimalist ryokan. Wellness aficionados should try Aman…

epicure is available at the following: Onboard Singapore Airlines (SIA) as an inflight magazine Airport Lounges/Airline Offices Air France-KLM British Airways Cathay Pacific CIAS DBS Asia Treasures DNATA Lounge Emirates SATS Premier Lounge SIA KrisFlyer Gold Lounges SIA SilverKris Lounges Thai Airways Deluxe Rooms & Business Centres of Hotels & Resorts in SINGAPORE Amara Sanctuary Resort Sentosa Amara Singapore Capella Singapore Carlton City Hotel Singapore Carlton Hotel Singapore Concorde Hotel Singapore Conrad Centennial Singapore Fairmont Singapore Four Seasons Hotel Singapore Furama City Centre, Singapore Furama RiverFront, Singapore Goodwood Park Hotel Grand Copthorne Waterfront Grand Hyatt Singapore Grand Mercure Singapore Roxy Hilton Singapore Holiday Inn Singapore Orchard City Centre Holiday Inn Singapore Atrium Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong Hotel Jen Orchardgateway Singapore Hotel Jen Tanglin Singapore InterContinental Singapore JW Marriott Hotel Singapore…

Carlton Hotel Singapore's new Chocolate Pink Peppercorn Log Cake ($63) is not to be missed. Pineapple and mango are melded within layers of decadent chocolate, before the cake is finished with piquant pink peppercorn for an extra kick of flavour. Health-conscious individuals can opt for the Black Forest Log Cake ($68); it is alcohol-free and contains 30 percent less sugar.76 Bras Basah Road. Tel: 6349 1292 The Capitol Kempinski Hotel marks their Christmas debut in Singapore with delicious takeaways from their flagship restaurant, 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung. Try the Madagascar Vanilla Mousse Cake ($62). Sweet-tangy raspberry custard is nestled within the white log which is layered with mixed berry jelly and decorated with festive accoutrements. 15 Stamford Road. Tel: 6368 8888 InterContinental Singapore unveils several sweet treats. For log…

On 1 October, Maximilian Riedel took to the stage to greet a fully packed 120-strong audience in the Kent Ridge Guild House at the National University of Singapore. The 11th generation scion of the famed Riedel wine glass company was in town to introduce the ground-breaking new Performance series of machine-made and varietal specific wine glasses. Guests arrived to a welcome glass of Giesen Malborough Sauvignon Blanc 2018, expressive with freshly cut herb and tropical fruit notes, before they took their seats. The tasting comprised three wines: Frescobaldi Pomino Benefizio Bianco Reserve DOC 2017 from Chardonnay grapes, Cristom Mt. Jefferson Pinot Noir 2016, and Château Boutisse Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2016. Four slender-stemmed crystal Performance glasses showcased the varietals Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Cabernet/Merlot. The light optic impact of…

When it comes to providing scrumptious festive feasts, Culina has got the art down pat. The leading purveyor of specialist epicurean foods and beverages offers a bountiful spread of yuletide favourites at its gorgeously revamped outlet at the COMO Dempsey enclave. Come prepared with an ultimate food shopping list and start your browsing experience at the massive 15,000 sq ft space. From now till 25 December, the colonial barracks will be transformed into a whimsical festive marketplace. Think dazzling fairy lights, a live pine tree, shelves filled with seasonal produce such as the Italian Christmas cake, panettones from Bonifanti and complimentary product tastings. Expect premium items (pre-order from Culina Market) like Traditional Roast Turkey ($115) with chestnut stuffing and gourmet sauce, Premium Gammon Ham (Boneless, $60), Roasted Black Pepper Baby…

Usher in 2020 on a prosperous note with PARKROYAL on Kitchener Road’s auspicious culinary creations. For a sumptuous yet fuss-free affair with family members, a Lunar New Year buffet spread at the newly revamped Spice Brasserie is an ideal option. This year, executive chef Robert Chan and his culinary team impresses yet again with a slew of new delectable offerings such as Crispy Pulled Duck Skin with Orange Peel, Dried Oyster Fat Choy Porridge and the fragrant Herbal Sea Water Prawns cooked in Cellophane Bag. Instagram-worthy live stations offer charcoal grill delights and a colourful D-I-Y Salad Bar. Complete your meal with generous helpings of sweet treats from the dessert station, which serves up new creations like Pineapple Tabasco Mousse Cake and Snow Pear White Fungus Raindrop Jelly. What’s a…

Usher in the Year of the Metal Rat with the bountiful offerings from award-winning restaurant, Man Fu Yuan. Guests can choose from eight prix-fixe menus, which will be available from 6 January to 8 February. The eight-course Bliss menu ($1,388/10 persons) is an extravagant affair. It starts with the Abundance yu sheng with salmon and fish skin, followed by the luxurious Braised Abalone and Sea Cucumber. The latter is stuffed with minced prawn and pork. Health-conscious diners will definitely enjoy the Steamed Tiger Garoupa with Yunnan Black Garlic and the nourishing Eight Treasures Tea with Peach Collagen and Bird’s Nest. Man Fu Yuan will also offer à la carte dishes, including the Abundance Treasure Pot, which is filled to the brim with 18 premium ingredients. The star of this year’s…

Located in the heart of Yogyakarta, Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta is the perfect getaway to explore the artful city. The former site of the royal palace residence, the hotel has managed to preserve its regal appearance in all the 247 rooms and suites. Its royal legacy lives on through an array of traditional activities and cultural performances as well as a dedicated museum. Explore the hotel grounds and admire its 18th century Javanese architecture and ‘60s mosaic artworks. Every Friday and Saturday for the month of December, SamaZana Restaurant will offer tasty Indonesian cuisine. The mouth-watering spread includes Selat Solo, Rawon Daging, Gudeg Jogja, Beef Rendang, and Tengkleng Kambing. The sleek-looking restaurant also hosts the hotel’s Christmas Feastive Buffet on 24 and 25 December. Sample a wide variety of signature dishes,…

With its pristine beachfront location, elegant suites and villas, lagoon-style swimming pool, and stunning tropical landscape, a stay at The St. Regis Bali Resort is the perfect way to usher in the New Year in style. Discerning foodies are in for a treat because three of the resort’s F&B outlets have launched different menus for Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Enjoy afternoon tea at King Cole Bar from now until 30 December. From 3pm to 5.30pm, savour sweet and savoury delicacies prepared by pastry Chef Vincent Stopin. On 24 and 25 December, splurge on a six-course Christmas dinner at Kayuputi or head to Boneka for a Christmas dinner buffet. The latter offers a delectable selection of classic dishes such as honey roasted turkey and sweet mustard-glazed ham. Take the festivity…

Presenting traditional Italian dishes in a contemporary fashion, Settimo Cielo has cemented its reputation as a reliable Italian dining establishment in Seminyak. Led by chef Alberto Panciera, the restaurant features a skylight roof that allows a flood of light to enter the cosy dining area as you tuck into a plateful of freshly made pasta. As the day turns dark, Settimo Cielo transforms into a golden-lit venue. Save a seat for the Seventh Heaven Grazing Dinner on Christmas Eve, which offers a delicious array of à la minute dishes. Try the Beef Ragu Arancini, Rabbit & Porcini Pappardelle, and Black Mussels & White Wine Linguine. Naturally, an Italian meal is incomplete without pizza. Be sure to save some space for the Four Cheese Pizza slathered with piattone, tri signori, gorgonzola,…

With 493 luxurious rooms, suites and villas as well as an enviable beachfront location, The ANVAYA Beach Resort Bali makes for an idyllic year-end escape. Delight in a stay at the Premier Room with lagoon pool access or enjoy family downtime in the privacy of the two-bedroom The ANVAYA Residence. Deriving inspiration from Bali’s rich heritage and design, the resort offers international and local cuisine in the form of Kunyit Restaurant and the all-day dining Sands Restaurant. This December, gather your family and friends for a seaside Christmas and New Year’s Eve celebration. The festivities start on 24 December at Sands Restaurant. Enjoy a lavish five-course set menu and a seafood barbeque on the deck while listening to Christmas carols and receiving a visit from Santa Claus. Indulge in tasty…

Nothing announces the start of a festive party quite like hearing the pop of a wine bottle cork. Whether it’s a jovial Christmas Eve party or a New Year’s Eve countdown, a toast of sparkling wine definitely makes the occasion more special. And TWO Islands Sparkling Chardonnay is the perfect party pour. The brut bubbly is made with grapes from the premium cool-climate vineyards of South Australia’s Adelaide Hills and Limestone Coast, a familiar region for winemaker James Kalleske who grew up in the nearby Barossa Valley. Applying the traditional French technique and aging sur-lie for a minimum of 12 months, this outstanding locally vinified product is made according to the pioneering spirit of TWO Islands’ umbrella company, Hatten Wines. One of nine wines in the TWO Islands range, the…

The signature Cajun Turkey ($138) from Carlton City Hotel Singapore makes its return this year. Along with the usual accompaniments of roasted potatoes, vegetables and chestnut-chicken mousseline stuffing, each order of the Cajun Turkey comes with a selection of four marmalades and four sauces. The classics like cranberry marmalade, giblet gravy and bread sauce are available, but those who prefer a more exciting flavour profile will love the spicy ‘mala’ chicken sauce, pineapple-wasabi marmalade and honey green mango marmalade. Lobby Level, Christmas Shoppe, 1 Gopeng Street. Tel: 6632 8921 Sheraton Towers Singapore unveils a new oriental-inspired Honey Rock Hoisin Roasted Turkey ($198). The turkey is infused in homemade hoisin marinade for 48 hours before it's slow-roasted and served with sides like black sesame fried rice stuffing, sautéed Brussels sprouts and…

From its bamboo exteriors, earth blocks (a mix of local soil and harvested bamboo), exposed wooden beams on the ceilings, and courtyards filled with dense vegetation, there’s much about Cannúa that hints at its amazing sustainable effort. With just 10 rooms and eight private cabanas scattered among the protected Farallones del Citara forest, the boutique hotel looks like a small village from afar, but up-close, Cannúa is in a league of its own. The hillside escape, located 90 minutes from the metropolis of Medellín and overlooking the Valle de San Nicolas, is tucked discreetly amid the lush tropical landscape of a 75,000-acre forest in Antioquia, and deliberately so. ECO-WARRIORS Freshly minted in November, Cannúa has has a romantic backstory to match its peaceful, refined spaces. In 2015, three young men,…

There’s no better way to celebrate Christmas time than having a sumptuous meal with family and friends. Novotel Singapore on Stevens and Mercure Singapore on Stevens are set to provide this in more ways than one. Be it a lavish buffet dinner, a light repast or takeaways for a house party, the myriad F&B options at the Stevens Road complex have got you covered. Nothing quite spells casual indulgence like a hearty buffet meal. Food Exchange’s Festive Buffet ($56/person for lunch, $72-98/person for dinner) is an excellent option. Classic favourites like Traditional Roast Turkey, Honey Baked Ham and Christmas desserts complete the lineup, along with a local twist: the Satay Roast Turkey. Basted in their in-house satay gravy, the juicy bird is not to be missed for those who love…

As the largest and one of the most fabled Mediterranean islands, Sicily has long hosted a culture of winemaking – in fact, since 4,000BC. During the 1900s though, the attention turned to sweet Marsala and cheap bulk wine as farmers looked to higher yields. It took a new wave of boutique winemakers in the 1980s to dig in their heels before Sicily became known for producing wines that could make the world sit up. Leading the way is family-owned Planeta, from which the dynamic Santi Planeta literally shows me the unique soils of Sicily during our tasting in Singapore. The key to understanding Planeta? Don’t think of it as a single brand but a collection of six smaller wineries. ROOTING FOR SUCCESS Like many in his generation, 50-year-old Santi was…

A stay in bustling Jakarta is all about finding the right location. Just a short drive away from Soekarno Hatta International Airport, Swissôtel Jakarta PIK Avenue’s location offers business travellers and staycationers an effortlessly easy connection to PIK Avenue Mall and the rest of the city. The hotel offers 412 rooms and suites and each boasts thoughtful design features and comfort. There is an executive lounge, a Pürovel Spa & Sport facility, and an impressive Grand Ballroom that can accommodate up to 3,000 guests for weddings or events. With nine meeting rooms, an amphitheatre, two lounges, and a breakout space as part of the Conference Centre; the hotel is able to fulfil any professional requirements. As part of Accor’s first premium brand presence in Indonesia, foodies can take their pick…

It is not an overstatement to say that Uluwatu is a perfect destination to rest and relax. Access to beautiful beaches and gorgeous waves notwithstanding, the neighbourhood now houses a slew of luxurious resorts for a year-end getaway. Renaissance Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa is one fine example of how a modern luxury resort blends well with the relaxed pace of seaside living. For a quick getaway in Uluwatu, consider the resort’s special holiday offer (from 21 December to 31 December 2019). Reserve online at renaissancebali.com and receive extra benefits such as daily buffet breakfast at Clay Craft restaurant and daily dinner for two guests. Executive chef Christopher T. Smith and his team have also prepared a tasty gourmet feast for Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Clay Craft offers a…

With a 1,300 sq m salted water lagoon pool and a panoramic access to watch the sunset on Jimbaran Bay, Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran is an ideal destination to spend a tropical Christmas. Stay in one of the resort’s stylish 117 rooms, suites, penthouses or villas – preferably one with a lagoon access such as the Aqua Studio Suite. Swim, relax and savour Le Meridien Bali Jimbaran’s gastronomic offerings. An extensive Christmas and New Year’s festive programme has been carefully prepared by the resort’s culinary team. Renowned for its Pan-Asian fare, Bamboo Chic hosts a Christmas Eve Dinner buffet on 24 December. Expect juicy slices of Roasted Turkey with Bread Dumpling, Honey Blueberry Sauce and Gravy, a dedicated pasta station, salad bar, as well as favourites such as Jimbaran Sea…

Located a stone’s throw from Seminyak’s top shopping, dining, and nightlife belt, Montigo Resorts Seminyak caters to couples and family alike. Expertly blending modern comforts with a tropical vibe, the resort offers 128 expansive rooms and suites to cater to different requirements. Book the Garden Suites with its private terrace for two or the Two Bedroom Suite that houses a family of four comfortably. Spend your downtime at one of the three aquamarine swimming pools. Order some nibbles from the 24-hour TIIGO Restaurant or get pampered at Montigo Spa — the signature twenty fingers massage is a much-needed treat. The adjoining fully-equipped Tilo Kids Club offers fun and educational activities for children aged four to 12, so parents can rest and relax. Join the Yuletide celebration at TIIGO Restaurant on…

The highly anticipated 12 Days of Karma makes a return this year. This music and wellness themed festival will be held at Karma Kandara from 23 December 2019 to 3 January 2020. Situated on Uluwatu’s cliff above a secluded private beach, guests enjoy a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean. Stay in one of the 54 private pool villas and join the extensive daily wellness and yoga programme created by Karma’s Yoga Ambassador Ola Iirka. The morning Rise & Shine Karma Flow and the Cocoon Medical Spa’s Anti-aging Rejuvenation at Karma Spa will keep you primped and primed. Head down to the beach and order different signature cocktails from the 12 Days of Cocktails menu. Enjoy the Merry Berry (vodka, lemon and cranberry juice, ginger lemonade foam, and raspberry rosemary…

Emerging from the dark charcoal cover of night, three elephant bulls amble towards the fire pit. Sitting together with Charles Sebaga beside Kwara Camp’s crackling flames, I dare not exhale as the pachyderms plod ever forward. Having been based in the concession since 2001, Charles is an area expert here. Like many Batswana working for Kwando Safaris (a 100 percent citizen-owned outfit) he started his career as a guide, then worked his way up to manager. Today he stands at the helm of Kwando’s finest renewal to ensure everything runs smoothly. This is just another day at the office. Charles motions for us – a group of gawping guests – to sit tight. The enormous mammals keep to the protective shadows just beyond the campfire’s realm of light, but I…