Innholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2020 i ELLE

Mere weeks after the fall 2020 shows, independent designers, beauty giants, and fashion conglomerates alike joined forces, dramatically shifting their businesses in order to meet the needs of millions during the COVID-19 pandemic. Among the first to heed New York governor Andrew Cuomo’s call was designer Christian Siriano, who tweeted to Cuomo that his team was ready, willing, and able to make masks. As the news spread that the designer and his seamstresses, working from home, were able to turn out roughly 1,000 masks during a three-day period, the DIY movement blossomed among his New York peers. And within the beauty industry, some of the biggest names, from Estée Lauder to Bulgari, began making hand sanitizer in place of cosmetics. The final tally continues to grow—the numbers here reflect the…

SEASON 18 WINNER GEOFFREY MAC @geoffreymac Nearly 15 years ago, a camera-shy Geoffrey Mac auditioned for one of the early seasons of Project Runway. “That didn’t work out,” Mac says. “But thank goodness, because here I am now.” It would take more than a decade—and a brush with death—for Mac to find his way to the runway. He launched his namesake label in Chicago in 1999, but found his penchant for leather and latex a tough sell in the largely conservative midwestern milieu. In 2005, after nearly drowning in a riptide in Costa Rica, Mac had an epiphany: “I remember feeling really sad for myself that this was it. So much work and so little joy.” Shortly afterward, he moved to New York, where he became a promoter for the…

The Expert KRISTEN COLE @kc_everything President and chief creative officer, 4510/Six Kristen Cole of Dallas-based retailer Forty Five Ten has long been known for taking risks on emerging talent—and clearly, customers are game. The boutique, which has outposts in New York, Napa, and Aspen, also offers a curated selection of vintage; for the uninitiated, Cole recommends starting with denim. • “Look for the fit at the waist, hips, and upper leg. The hem and lower leg are much easier to alter.”• “The perfect pair of vintage jeans requires a bit of a hunt. You generally should try on 5 to 10 pairs at a time to find your favorite fit and wash.” THE SOURCES 1. feathersboutiquevintage.com2. foxholela.com3. melrosetradingpost.org…

FOR OUR FIRST DATE, James cooked me a summertime feast. Unfortunately, I was allergic to the entire meal, and retreated to the bathroom to game-plan. While absentmindedly opening his medicine cabinet (okay, maybe not that absentmindedly), I discovered a shelf of makeup: Nars concealer, Glossier Boy Brow, and Covergirl black eyeliner commingling with toothpaste and face wash. I didn’t question it for a second—one of my first crushes, Billie Joe Armstrong of Green Day, wore guyliner. I instantly loved the idea of dating someone who could be into my job as a beauty editor, and it meant James was ahead of a new trend: straight men enjoying makeup. “Makeup is fluid now. It’s for all genders,” says Peter Philips, creative and image director of Dior Makeup. “We have guys backstage…

“Man,” JoJo Career-wise, JoJo has experienced more than her fair share of setbacks, but she still has one of the best voices in pop music today. Case in point: this self-love anthem masquerading as a smoky bedroom-R&B track, which places her impressive vocal range front and center. (CLOVER MUSIC/WARNER RECORDS) “Baby Girl,” Bryce Vine Nothing says summer more than blasting a feel-good tune on the way to the beach. Bryce Vine’s retro-flavored bop—produced by Sir Nolan and the Neptunes’ Chad Hugo for extra bop-ability—will make you want to roll the window down and sing along at full volume. (SIRE RECORDS) “Know Your Worth,” Khalid and Disclosure Following last year’s massive smash, “Talk,” Khalid and Disclosure have teamed up again to bless the masses with a light and bubbly dance-pop number…

I meet Rosalía a few days before the world stops, just as things are starting to get weird. When I arrive in her hotel room at the West Hollywood Edition, she is multitasking: working on a new ballad, her first song in that format, while getting her hair styled. Her instructions for the sound engineer are as assured and precise as her feedback for the hairstylist, who is fastening rows of rainbow-colored butterfly clips to rows of pulled-back hair. A pause in the song needs to be a beat longer, and the twists in her hair should be fuller, because every detail matters when you’re on your way to taking over the world. Rosalía is scheduled to fly back home to Spain, where the COVID-19 crisis is spiraling, a couple…

AS I SIT DOWN TO WRITE this editor’s note from self-quarantine in New York, I am distracted by a new kind of workplace cacophony: There is my middle school–age son, yelling about being late for a Zoom call. There is the TV, with its constant COVID-19 news updates and briefings—the steady drumbeat of political voices trying to reassure a nation that is shaken to its core. And as grim-faced reporters, wearing surgical masks and gloves, describe scenes of devastation and heartbreak from around the nation, there is also the insistent beep of call waiting, as ELLE editors who have dispersed to locations all over the country come together to creatively reimagine our coverage in light of this crisis. To say that we are living in truly unprecedented times fails to…

1. THE EARRING Patrice Leguéreau reimagines a Chanel staple, weaving stunning “tweed” jewelry out of gold, platinum, pearls, diamonds, and onyx. Earrings, Chanel Fine Jewelry, 800-550-0055. 2.THE BAG That’s amore! Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana bring love to the latest iteration of their Devotion handbag with a pearl-encrusted ex-voto heart clasp. Handbag, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,495, dolcegabbana.it. 3. THE BOOT Couldn’t we all use a bit of a lift? Walk tall in Anthony Vaccarello’s thigh-grazing boots in classic black-and-white calf hair. Boot, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, $2,195, Saint Laurent, NYC.…

When Courtney Love traded her “kinderwhore” trappings for an Atelier Versace gown that clung to her like Saran Wrap at the 1997 Oscars, some fans felt betrayed—as though their grunge goddess had sold out. But these days, when a young artist like Billie Eilish shows up on a red carpet in Gucci or Chanel, it doesn’t feel like a corporate co-option of a subculture. Instead, musicians like Eilish, FKA twigs, and Solange Knowles have become innovators—molding designer fashion in their images, rather than bending to some outside idea of it. Of course, music has always influenced fashion, but now the relationship between the two feels less like an extreme makeover and more like a collaboration, with pop stars consistently wearing the most daring, directional looks from the runway. Think of…

The Expert CRISTINA MILLER @1stdibs Chief commercial officer, 1stdibs For nearly two decades, 1stdibs has been the online destination for spectacular vintage or antique artwork and home goods. What’s less well-known: the site’s stellar fashion offerings. We spoke to CCO Cristina Miller about how to be sure you’re purchasing a quality piece when the only shopping you’re doing right now might be virtual: • “High-quality designer brands will generally keep their value (and continue to wear well) over time. One of the great things about a vintage piece is that it’s already been broken in, so you already know how the leather will wear. That patina lends such incredible character to the item!”• “Some of the best leather jackets might be found outside your city or country, which is why…

EXTEND TIME BETWEEN CUTS In the early weeks of stay-at-home orders in March, L.A. hairstylist Marcus Francis, whose clients include Julianne Moore and Awkwafina, threw on a wig and taught his Instagram followers how to “dust” their hair at home (translation: clean up split ends): First, section off dry hair about an inch at a time and hold scissors vertically. Gently snip off split ends, keeping the shears pointed upward. Look at the hair, not the scissors, he advised. For face-framing hair, Francis holds the scissors at a downward angle, “pulsing” them slightly open and closed. The blades should slice hair close to the scissors hinge without fully closing. Too scared to cut? Avoid split ends with a restorative treatment, says Erickson Arrunategui, a go-to stylist for beauty editors in…

When Kinfolk magazine emerged in 2011, it quickly became a cultural touchstone for a distinct millennial aesthetic that combined rustic twee and Scandinavian minimalism. Like a cross between Martha Stewart Living and your coolest cousin’s Instagram feed, its pages evoked a world of windswept daydreams: Maine lighthouses perched above cranberry bogs. Camping recipes for Dutch-oven cornbread and spicy dandelion greens. Long-haired dads in denim jackets cutting down Christmas trees in snowy forests. Photogenic friends gathered in fields of clover. The magazine inspired legions of devoted fans—despite its modest circulation of 85,000, its best-selling companion books sold hundreds of thousands of copies, and in a certain milieu the name “Kinfolk” was ubiquitous, as if it had distilled an essential vapor of youthful identity. Its devotees fanned copies of the handsome paper…

“What if we had given these men, these women, the queer community, black people opportunities—how different could it be?” Jeremy Pope recalls producer/screenwriter/director Ryan Murphy saying, in an effort to sell the Broadway actor on Netflix’s Hollywood. Pope had little information on the series. What he did know, though—that the series is set in the 1940s and that it takes a revisionist look at the supposedly halcyon days of the film industry by giving black, Asian, and gay characters leading story lines—captivated him. “The question Ryan posed to me at the time was, ‘What would happen if, you know, Rock Hudson and Anna May Wong and Dorothy Dandridge had had happy endings?’ The idea of pulling up buried history and also rewriting some wrongs excited me,” says Janet Mock, an…

JUNE “This oversize statement ring was inspired by Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, so I just had to use a beautiful South Sea pearl inside the clamshell (which opens and closes!) to represent the goddess herself.”—BRENT NEALE WINSTON GEMINI MAY 21–JUNE 21 With Venus retrograde in Gemini until the 25th, birthday bonding will be more intimate than usual. You might even revive an old friendship or romance—or bring back a signature “lewk” from your style archives. A solar eclipse on the 21st opens up fresh income streams. Budget carefully, because Mercury is retrograde from June 18 to July 12. Dynamic Mars blazes into your teamwork zone on June 27: Distance yourself from troublemakers, and align with the movers and shakers. CANCER JUNE 22–JULY 22 June is a month for letting go…

Does anyone still wear a hat?” Elaine Stritch famously lamented in Stephen Sondheim’s Company. Like fancy hats—and snoods, muffs, bustles, and trains—opera gloves feel like a relic from some Precambrian era, as remote as bellhops and answering services. So it was a surprise to see, on the fall 2020 runways, that they were very much back on. At Marc Jacobs, Miley Cyrus sported a black leather pair that stopped just short of her tattoos—the rocker take on the look—while Bella Hadid went classic Audrey Hepburn with white gloves, a black sequined gown, and an updo. At Valentino, a dramatic fiery red pair set off an all-black look. For Clare Waight Keller’s midcentury-inspired Givenchy show, they were pragmatically rolled up under jacket sleeves and over a gown; the overall effect was…

The Expert PATRICK MATAMOROS @saintluisnyc T-shirt dealer to the stars Matamoros may have gotten his start selling vintage tees on a New York City street corner, but these days, the L.A.-based dealer and founder of streetwear brand Saint Luis counts Kim and Kanye among his A-list clientele. He scours the globe to unearth rare treasures that don’t come cheap (a pristine concert tee can easily fall within the $1,000 range). For those of us on the hunt closer to home, he was happy to share some of his tips: • “It all starts with a trusted reseller. Today, everyone is a vintage-tee dealer, like everyone was a DJ a few years back.”• “Ignore YouTube tutorials. ‘Cool’ is just a hashtag to these people.”• “Vintage is a very personal way to…

BROOKE RABOUTOU @brookeclimbs Sport climbing “I like to wear my hair in two Dutch or French braids for competitions because it’s fun and feels a little more done up. I use Unite Boing Curl Leave-In Conditioner ($28) every time I shower, and sometimes in the mornings, to define and smooth my really long hair. I’ll spray it all over when my hair is wet, then shake my hair to help [define] the curls. I’ll also reapply it when my hair is in braids if I have a lot of flyaways. I like that it’s a spray, because I can’t have residue on my hands when I’m climbing.” ALIX KLINEMAN @alixklineman Beach volleyball “I’ve played with my hair in a high ponytail for as long as I can remember. My hair…

Jessie Reyez would rather not have a conventional conversation. “It’s difficult when you have three, four, or five different voices in your head trying to get out,” says the 28-year-old singer-songwriter. “But with a song, I’m free to have a conversation with me and the five other me’s, and I can actually get some clarity.” This insight helps explain the contemplative pauses that punctuate Reyez’s speech, but her thoughts are always worth the wait. Profound and often poetic, they are the expressions of an artist who processes the world through song. “I remember a lot of cumbia and salsa—a lot of Grupo Niche and Alquimia,” Reyez says, describing the music that filled her childhood home in Toronto, where her parents landed after emigrating from Colombia. According to family lore, at…

I MARCH INTO THE VOTING BOOTH with the same energy I carry into every Pride celebration—exuberant if bleary-eyed, fingers usually a little sticky from brunch, but always hopeful that with the raising of my voice and the push of a button, I can help bring into being the world I want to see. To me, the celebration of Pride and the ritual of voting are two key elements of active participation in the American experiment. Honestly, I wish that voting booths exploded into confetti once you’ve made your choice, and a little mirror ball descended from the ceiling. To whom might I send these suggestions? I vote in every election because I believe in the possibility of America, and I also want to get an A for attendance. Voting is…

Experienced politicians know there is a right way to answer questions about pursuing higher office. Be demure. Redirect. Convey vague interest while insisting never to have given it serious consideration. But Stacey Abrams does not give the expected answer when I ask if she would accept an offer from former vice president Joe Biden to serve as his 2020 running mate. “Yes. I would be honored,” Abrams says. “I would be an excellent running mate. I have the capacity to attract voters by motivating typically ignored communities. I have a strong history of executive and management experience in the private, public, and nonprofit sectors. I’ve spent 25 years in independent study of foreign policy. I am ready to help advance an agenda of restoring America’s place in the world. If…

COVERS Newsstand Cover: Trench coat by 4 Moncler Simone Rocha, $2,345, moncler.com. Rings by Cartier, from $9,350, available by appointment only, select Cartier boutiques nationwide. Subscriber Cover: Jacket by Collina Strada, $700, collinastrada.com. Top by S.R. Studio. LA. CA., $695, srstudio.com. Ear cuff by Yeprem, $45,000, Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE 10: Top by Beaufille, sales@beaufille.com. Skirt by Silvia Tcherassi, modaoperandi.com. PAGE 12: Suit by Salvatore Ferragamo, ferragamo.com. Shirt, top, skirt, tie by Dolce & Gabbana, select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. Watch by Chanel Watches, $15,000, call 800-550-0005. Shirt by Boss, hugoboss.com. EDITOR’S LETTER PAGE 14: Earrings, $25,000, rings, $10,000–$36,000 each, by Suzanne Kalan, suzannekalan.com. NEW ARRIVALS PAGE 22: Earrings by Chanel Fine Jewelry, $115,600, Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques nationwide. ACCESSORIES PAGE 39: Earrings by Emily P.…